Yep, I have 2-1/2 sets for my trail bike.
29er XC lighter set, durable mullet trail set and a DD rear for when the day is going to be rocky.

All hope pro4’s with same size discs.
Swap over easily with no faff, or brake re-alignment. Swap for new chain slight more regularly, but no issues in general.

WTB riddler? @45c
Chainreaction Sale for 24£ right now. Bargain.

Sell the fox- someone with more money than sense will buy it (you’re in the right place)

Buy a cheaper one. OneUp have a 20% off sale right now… they’re good posts, with low ‘stack’ length. You can also adjust the travel.

anyone looking for one of these frames, should check out Evo Cycles Sale.
Evo cycles
Some great prices on frames, forks ect:

Half price MRP ribbon coil forks…
30%off Mega frames in all the coil options

I’m normally an XXL in most, but ALtura stuff comes up quite big. XL jacket fits me well.

It’s definitely a well/badly bled issue.
However, the same process of bleeding has given me both perfect, and squidgy brakes at different times.

I have resorted to using the technique I saw Steve Peats mechanic use, which is a complete fluid drain from the lower calliper end, then pump new oil back up through to reservoir screwed into bleed port of master cylinder. Any bubbles are forced out the top and brakes become solid again.

Wastes quite a bit of fluid, but works.

Across the 10 bikes in our house, all with shimano brakes, I’ve done quite a lot of bleeding. Some have never needed it, some need it a lot.

Also, the bikes that get used a lot, never get the seal ‘microleak’ issue, as the seals stay well oiled. The ones that get used infrequently, ALWAYS get it after a year or so.

I plan to try a ‘Shigura’ setup soon to see if they’re as good as people suggest.

If you’re planning on it in a couple of years time, I’d try a few things and see what works for you.

Yea, thanks Andy: This is indeed the plan. It would indeed be a little foolish to launch into it without a few testers. Although maybe throwing myself in the deepend would ensure I actually do it.

@ta11pau1
Thanks for that. The tail fin stuff looks good.

@highlandman

Thanks for that. I’ll look at the Great North Trail for the northern part then.

I do actually think I will be doing JOG to LE (so going south) rather than the other way. I’m a southerner, so return to base would be easier that way around.

Why do lejog then? Just make up a route going to nice places with nice routes

There’s something about the point-to-point endeavour and the ‘length of the land’ notion that appeals to me.

I’ll also be looking to use most of an existing route, rather than build/map my own. Just for expediency.

You might be surprised how many quiet back lanes you can find.

I hope so. I’m not wedded to the off-road part, as Sustrans/segregated bikes lanes and VERY quiet rods would be fine. I’m just up for a long meandering ride, with lots of time and audio-books to get through.

If you have the money for a new bike and want Pinion drive then have a look at the Sonder Broken Road Pinion.
One of those with a SON front hub for charging and lights would be a good set up I reckon.

The Broken Road would be great, but after the LEJOG, the Signal would be more useful.
I have a SON hub waiting to be built into a wheel right now.

If I had a a Signal Ti (which I do!) and I was taking it on a long route (which I still might) I’d get some more backswept bars, like the 16 degree SQ Labs 30OX in high rise flavour and shift the saddle back on the rails, get weight off the hand and shoulders a bit. And tyres to suit, obviously.

This is how my Signal is currently set-up. I have Stooge Moto bar and saddle is back. I’d be riding with a front handlebar bag and a rear rack with small side loaded packs too. A frame bag might be used, depending on how much i end up taking.

It can be quite nice to get some miles in on the lanes along the way on trips like this. Everyone’s different I know, I do find that after a longer section of off-road it’s a nice contrast and a bit of a break to have an hour or 2 on country lanes.

I would love to do bits on the road, for exactly the reasons you mention. However, we DON’T live in a country that respects cyclists, so i wont ever be doing much riding on the dangerous race-track that car drivers use.

Whilst i appreciate that any bike will probably do, I want to get some miles in on the bike i’m actually going to take. I can wave the magic ‘cash’ wand at whatever i’d like, but i’mm not obsessed with kit. Something reliable and comfortable is what i’m planning on using, it will most likely be the Sonder Signal, because it’s what i’ve got. However, it has no mounts for a rack, or even a second bottle cage.

If i bought the Pinion version, with rack mounts and specific selction of extras, it’ll then become my trail hardtail afterwards, just like it is now, only with internal gears.

I currently use it for winter rides, on mixed terrain, graded off-road, Sustrans type routes and small, back country lanes. I’m used to 30-40 mile rides like this, but plan to do the SDW (in a day) late summer this year, so thinking of the new frame for that trip too. I did it a few years back, in 2 days on my Stumpy with heavy DD tyres and enduro weight components and it was tough.

First, i need to start planning the route.

Good suggestions from everyone. Thanks.
I have a long while to build up to this and might even have to do in sections instead of all-in-one.

I’ve not researched the route yet at all, but DO NOT want to ride on any roads I can avoid. Although I’m sure there will be some, I’d try to minimise this, at the expense of extra time and distance.

I’ve looked at a ‘Son’ dynamo hub before and they look good. Although, an extra battery pack might be more flexible.

Route will dictate final choice of bike, but either way, it’s going to be a bike I’d use normally too, not just for this.

Good link above to the GBDuro stuff, I’ll look over that and more forums for big tour type stuff. I’ve been harbouring a desire to do the ‘Tour Divide’ for a while now, so thought I’d start ‘smaller’ and see if it’s for me.

Thanks for the replies all.

I figured the hardtail may be the simplest option, with more frame space and mounting options for gear too.

Having had an Alfine equipt hardtail a few years back, I’m sold on the gearbox route. So maybe a new pinion frame should be first on the list.

I have never ridden with a helmet light – as I worry about the effect they might have if you crash ( ripping your head back / to the side). Is this just me being over cautious?

Just get an Exposure light. They work very well and the helmet mount is so flimsy, it’ll snap off before doing your head any damage.,

I ride Shimano pedals. I’ll die before they do.

We’re not helping much, are we?

I’m over 18st and have both 24 and 28h off-road wheels. I’ve not bent them. Yet.

You won’t notice it, unless you bend it. Even then you’ll ask “does a 28h wheel bend quicker than a 32 hole”

Maybe a very tiny bit? Maybe.

My thighs are thicker than Chris Hoys. I have 3 pairs of Yeti Freeland shorts, as they’re a great fit for the chunkier of leg/bottom. Very hard wearing too.

I really don’t understand why the big brands moved away from coil for so long.

Ease of sales.
Stocking spring weights for every rider would have been expensive and not very marketable.

Until running inserts, I’d only had 1 tyre side-wall slash in 15 years. I’ve had 3 in the past 4yrs since running inserts.

Might just be coincidence, but there’s one thing for sure, if you DO slash the side wall, or even get a puncture near where the insert meets the tyre at the side, they don’t fix as easily trail side.

Taking them out was not too tricky however, on the shorter ride (distance from home about 4 miles) I just rode on the flat tyre. The rimpact held its shape nicely and I just rode slowly. I needed BOTH tyre levers however, and lots of finger strength to get the bead off one side.

I’ve also had a snapped spoke fire through the rim tape and mean I had to take the insert out completely. I’d second the tip about bin bag and zip ties to stow the slimy ring of foam.

The only reason I’ll keep them in there is to protect carbon rims from damage. Not too fussed about performance benefit from running lower pressures.

short lance available seperately.
here

I use mine from the rain water barrel in garden. no ban on that.

I’m using a Fortus 35 with a Maxcis 2.4 wt tyre and it’s sits very nicely. Rim is not very tough though, dents easily.

you don’t really need torque caps, or adaptors. Takes about 3 seconds longer to align the wheel before you put the axle through. I’m using Wolf tooth boostinators on my ‘non-boost’ Hope hubs, with a Boost Lyrik without problem.

I use a Dianese ‘shield air’ and it covers the whole spine (on me at least) its back only, but very flexible and unobtrusive when it’s on.

As a heavy rider, given to thrashing bikes a bit, my carbon rims have lasted well.

I’m 112kgs and use two sets of wheels I built my self from Nextie carbon rims.

One on the 180mm travel big bike, the other set on 140mm trail bike. After two years, I’ve not needed to tweak either set and they have been very tough. Purple of scrapes here and there but still looking good.

I do however run Rimpacts in all of them, with EXO+ tyres. There have been a few thumps which have got down to the rimpacts, and hence probably saved the rims.

Carbon+inserts…. Tough and stiff.
Without inserts? Maybe not worth the risk I’d say. As a biffer.

got my order confirmation from them.. so fingers crossed.
And, I just ordered a full price one 2 days ago, so this will be a spare if it turns up.

Just worked for me. Cheaper than a service, which is absurd of course…. But, new spare dropped, for £120!

@martinhutch

Another vote for the moon light. I have it strapped to the rear vents on my helmet.

This is exactly what i’ve done. Very visible and there regardless of which bike i’m riding.
The moon lights are generally very good and bright for the money.

You could speak to Stevo @Whiteroom, they’ve got spaces left for mid September. Although you don’t want to stay inn CHalet, they might be able to offer guided/uplift with the group? Great trails and guiding too.

I’ve ridden just north of Alicante, with Jose @costablancaenduroland and there are some pretty good trails when you know where to go. We rode out of Altea (just north of Alicante) and there’s loads of roadies that go there for winter training.

website here

I reckon there’s not much in the way of obvious trails around there, so local knowledge would be key. We’ve been there a number of times staying in the mountains east of Alicante. Best time to ride is September to April. Summer is way too hot for me.

@Alex
Thanks for the response. Good to know about the routing etc. I’ve ordered the feni. Coil frame, as I’m (clearly) a bit of a chunker and coil is always king.

Did you mean a downtube bash guard?
I’m not overly fussed about frame chips/scratches as I I’m rider not a re-seller. But, nice to know about flaky paint job!

Nice green colour there…. I wish they did the Fenix coil in other colours too. Mines black (which is ok) but a little boring.

That’s London. Or any big city.
Take a place where people can get ahead (financially, not spiritually) by literally riding over others, then you’ll see the same bahaviours demonstrated through everyday activities.

Competitive attitudes are fine, I quite like them, but if you’re in London wondering why everyone is so pushy, maybe you’re not in the right place?

I go up 1 Euro size with shimano.
I have wide feet and they are good for my flippers.

@anderzz
Thanks for that. I have tools and oil etc:
Let’s see what turns up from Amazon then!

Are these dampers easy to fit? Drop in?
I have a Yari-up, but fancy trying a different damper.

Spesh Ambush is also very well vented.

Spesh Ambush in XL for me…. Fits really well (snug, but good) Although Giro in largest also used to fit!

Fox, nah!
Smith, nah!
Poc, nah!
IXS was ok in XL