I fitted a ‘Yari-up’ from fast as a damper upgrade, whilst also putting a Vorsprung Smashpot coil in the other leg.

Makes a very average fork into a tuneable smooth monster. Only worth doing (financialy) as i got a new Yari for £300.

Like Tracey above, my trail bike is running XTR levers and saint calipers. All working perfectly for over a year with no issues/maintenance. Stop pretty quick too!

Ive been using my time to upgrade my childrens bikes.

Eldest has moved from 24″ wheels to 26″.. using up older bits from the shed. Small Giant Anthem running 26″ wheels on 27.5 frame and fork.

Younger one has small giant Trance running 24″ wheels and shorter cranks on a 26″ wheeled bike. (picture taken before the short cranks went on)

Yes, it happens. New Maxxis Minon, been hit a little too hard, dead tyre at least 20mm out of true. Side wall stretched as far as I can tell.

Took a similar experimental approach to my S-works stumpy: bunged a 650 out back and just left the 29 wheel out front. Rides well like this, with no real draw-back. It’s an Ohlins coil version, so sits up quite well in the travel.

I might consider an offset bushing next, just to see how it feels a little lower still.

I use a projector stand. Very robust, adjustable tilt/height.

Can’t beat XT’s for weight and durability. I have some in 165mm too.

Can’t see why anyone would spend more, unless you’re looking for the Rolex of cranks.

I just use a cheap (on-one) 29er carbon frame, rigid fork and light ‘cross’ style disk wheels.

Use all my ‘old’ xt 10speed stuff and slightly bigger 2x front chainrings. Works a treat with 38c gravel tyres.

By ‘tighter wind’ I was thinking that it’s sometimes necessary to make more coils per given length of spring to assist in keeping lateral rigidity, when loading gets much higher.

I’m not a suspension engineer however, so could easily be mistaken.

Also, as a fat bast@rd I’ve had more than my fair share of spring weight tinkering. So was using my recollection of changes in the springs I’ve used/seen.

Have you checked the cassette lock ring for tightness?

I’ve had an issue before, where the cassette was very slightly loose, not cinched up. Couldn’t work it out as it felt like frame/bearings/axle. Sounded just like that, but didn’t happen when the bike was in the stand, or testing outside the house. Only came up on the trail.

Took me a while to identify.

should be fine for that small difference in spring size.
A few things to check however:
(as said above) check it will actually fir on the shock body.
Also check that when fully compressed the spring does not touch/bind on a any part of the frame or rocker.
You may also find, the spring rate becomes (a small amount) more linear, as the natural spring bind at the end of the stroke will be reduced. This depends on how much was there in your current spring of course.
Also, a heavier spring than you currently have would need to have increased diameter wire radius, or tighter wind if it were to support more weight. So, a longer spring size might actually be a better rate, or fit better.

@jordan
Not sure I can help with that. All my shorts need to size WAAAAAY. Up to fit me.

Any reference to my XXXXXXXXL will not be of huge use to you.

Hmmmm…. haven’t tried them with inserts. I run rimpacts on my Maxxis DHR’s and they’re fab.

These Madison ones have a very long inseam. They’re almost trousers on my stumpy legs.

What’s better, they’re on sale too.

https://www.freewheel.co.uk/madison-dte-mens-softshell-shorts-varcl036?ps=OTM9MjMxNjE0JjE4ND0yMzIxODE=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoJrGmv_45wIVSLTtCh1JVQY4EAQYAyABEgKtY_D_BwE#93=231614&184=232181

I bought some 2.6 butcher grids to use on my FlowMk3’s and only rode ‘em twice due to the feel of them squirming and rolling around. Tyre, or rim? I’m not sure but other 2.5 – 2.6 tyres have felt fine.

2 ride old pair of 2.6 butcher grid griptions anyone?

Yep, mine have used small adult elbow pads. I think I have some 661’s.

All my boys have/use Xs 26” bikes with 24” wheels in them. Shorter cranks too, job done. Easier to find, build out of spare old light components you’ve stopped using.

Yeah, 2.3 butchers go on them fine, track pump only needed. 2.6 spesh have tyres tho’, they’d be rolling off everywhere on EX rims I’d have thought?

Check out Neilson holidays, they have a great activity holidays with MTB as part of the list of things to do.

Not at the adventurous end of the spectrum, but have bike you can hire which are pretty good.

I have the Wheels manufacturing on both my FS specialized bikes and also the gravel bike.
Haven’t creaked at all. I take ’em out a grease them once a year, but all on the original bearings too, at over 4 years for one of them.

Not used a Praxis tho’

Yeah, at 115kgs I’m always right on the end of the usefulness of air shocks.

All my bikes are coil now, but even then it’s not always easy to get a big about spring for my fat ass.

Second hand coil shocks can be quite cheap and don’t have the reliability issues that second hand air shocks might.

What length, weight etc:
I have 2 coils with just a few rides on them, needed to get different weights to find the right one.

Both yellow Ohlins coils from OEM equipment shocks on an enduro and a stumpjumper.

Small Silky type saw in the backpack, cut the mid-sized branches off the downed trunk and build a ramp up one side, and maybe down the other.

Trail obstacle now trail ‘feature’.
Much quicker and more interesting than removing it, surely?

Mushroom plug should sort that. Just did the same on a tyre bead, right in the place you’ve pictured. As long as you trim the outside of the plug properly flush with tyre surface, it should be fine.

Also, Vulpine do some pretty understated ‘urban’ technical clothing.

It is indeed a chunk of money for a cycle fork. Hmmmm

So a £450 fork, with a £250 damper and £300 coil spring? if it was anything less than “great” for £950 I’d be gutted

Well, my Yari was £200 on a great sale a while back, the YariUp and Smashpot cost about £450, and to get a great performing coil sprung fork, with high and low speed damping circuits would be more than £700.

I have Yari’s with aforementioned YariUp damper, but also have fitted a Smashpot coil spring to it. Works great with good all round control too.

Go ride a bike on roads or paths, or trails. Don’t concern yourself over what the bike is called, or what you’re wearing as long as its comfortable and keeps you dry/warm/protected.

All the rest is just about how you view yourself by comparison to other people. It’s nonsense. Ride fast and far, or bimble and dawdle. Your choice to make, on a different day.

I have bikes. Lots of bikes. Thin tyres, big tyres, suspension or not. A bike for all occasions: they’re all still just a bike.

Bike Verbier have always been great for me too. Although not been since they’ve stopped guiding.
As said above trails/chalet/food all top notch.

Whiteroom – in the Bourg St Maurice area. Just what you described.

@IdleJon – yes, now i’m a good bit older, i’m a little bit more cautious too. Still, riding alone at night is a great thing to do, risk be damned.

I love solo night riding. Such comfort in the isolation.

Is addition to the warning by @haggis1978, I’d urge some caution however. A number of years ago on a solo night ride, I managed to hit a gate which had been closed since I passed it on the outward loop of the ride. Travelling at about 20 on a nice fast downhill, I just glimpsed it in the front light with enough time to look over the top when I hit it.

I snapped the head tube of my bike and hit my chest and forearms on the gate as I flipped over the top. I came round about 20 later and was alone in the pitch black, with no lights and no prospect of help/rescue. 1hr later of dragging the remains of my bike towards civilisation with a broken arm, ribs and skull fracture I was lucky enough to meet another cyclist.

I now ride with a tracker and one of those specialized helmets which senses a crash and informs an emergency contact.

Be prepared, even if you’re only a few miles from home.

I’m running XTR levers with saint calipers… works a treat.

There are solutions like Praxis converters, which I have on all my bikes. They work fine. I have to whip me out and grease every 6 months or so, but otherwise a good solution to a poor bb approach.

A lyric RC3 for £480 – pretty decent price.

So, thanks for this info. It’s definitely an X-12 axle then… as i can find those pretty easily.

@pastcaring – i’ll send you a PM.

ok, thanks for that everyone. I was under the impression that it might not be something i can get, so thought i’d consult the hive-mind.

The bolt in is just a bit of a pain, as i’m often putting the bike in the back of a car/van.

I’ll check out those options.

I use a specialized flux- it’s very compact, easy and quick to clip into the great sturdy mount that puts it out the way under the stem. Lots of modes and good battery life.

Not the cheapest, but great light.
https://www.specialized.com/nl/en/flux-1200-headlight/p/159102

My Specialized ‘Trigger pro’ at 40c do this job just fine. Rough gravel lanes, then road miles with no problems.