not completely, with the first wash, but after a few few for sure.

yes, it’ll kill the waterproofing.

hard to know which couriers are used by which companies before you order tho’ surely?
But agreed, they’re total twunts.

Mine have wobbled like crazy ever since i installed them. They’ve been on there 6yrs now and have been all over Europe and UK, not lost a bike yet. I do think the wobble is weird tho.

Mine are at the very ends of the roof bars, as i sometimes put a roofbox between them, so that could be a factor.

Pilates.
Do t even have to leave the house. Builds core strength and flexibility. Perfect accomplIment to cycling.

I’m using the Raddlers on my flat bar hybrid thingy. They roll very well on road for a semi-knobbly. Great on the gravel/sustrans type trails I use when it’s muddy…..

In anything approaching real mud, they’ll slip a bit going in a straight line, but cornering is still pretty good.

I’m using a CCDB coil on mine!
It’s great, allowing 4 different speed/damping adjustments.

I have an Ohlins coil on my stumpy, which although good, doesn’t quite feel as good as the CCDB.

my boys @9yrs old are on XS 26″ frames, running 24″ wheels.

They’ll go up to 26″ wheels in the same frames in a year or 2. They’re not racing or riding to perform, and so the bikes are plenty good for them. I spent the xtra dosh getting the shocks/forks properly tuned for their weight. That made a ton of difference.

Omg- I just looked at ‘stolen goat’ website.

Now, I can’t see. My eyes. They hurt.

That’s fab, thanks so much to @Pyro

Got that now and loaded into Viewranger for the ride saturday.

@Pyro
That looks just like the sort of route I’d like to do when I go on Saturday.

Any chance of a GPX of that? That would be amazing. I don’t use a Garmin so can’t see where I’d download that (if it’s possible)

local rides, i don’t take a lot. Everything i do take goes in my bikes SWAT compartment in the downtube. tubeless plugger clipped onto the bike for ease/speed of deployment. Water bottle in cage, phone in pocket.

Longer rides, i have all the extra stuff i might need in a bumbag with extra water bladder (EVOC one)

Well, for me, the QR plastic bar mount would just not stay stil. Vibrated with every root and imprecise to position.

Having just looked at the bar mount (solid clamp version) it might work more solidly.

The £22 helmet clamp is just not very good. Cheap plastic screw which rounds very easily if you have to move the light between helmets. It’s also snapped twice at the ‘ball/socket’ junction with little encouragement.

Even though I’d like to use it as a helmet light ideally, I may try the other bar clamp.

I’ve only even see – or received with a light, the plastic ‘pop-in’ fitting. The helmet one is fragile, and I’ve been through 2 of them. They’re also not a cheap bit of plastic at more than £20.

I’m using a Diable on the helmet, but also have an axis.

May look into the bar mount then, if there’s a better engineered solution than a flexible plastic clip.

Great lights, but I’ve not bought a newer one because of the cheap/fragile mounting option.

They’d all be fab lights if they made a robust mount. Plastic clip things are absolute shy-te

I use Moon rear lights too. Great saddle rail attachment, and the clip on ‘band’ type fitting goes through the rear vents in my helmet well. Very solid mounts both. Also, the Moon Meteor light is very bright with good battery length.

Because we live in a city, there are restrictions on parking a vehicle over 4.5 meters. Maybe others have to buy a smaller Van (t5 or whatever) because of this as well.

I don’t have a van, because for me and my three boys/bikes/gear a small van would be useless.

I am however eying up a LWB 4×4 sprinter crew van for conversion right now. With a roof tent and small kitchen unit (no shower) it’s got lots of room inside for chilling when the weather is Shite.

I bought a very cheap Yari, then fitted the Smashpot coil, alongside a ‘Yari-up’ damper upgrade.

All in all a totally different fork. I’ve never had a Lyrik, coming from a Zocchi 55 coil fork previously, so can’t attest to the difference between my modded Yari and a new Lyrik.

The fork is very supple as I’m running a softish spring, whilst resisting my bulk the smashpot means heavy landings are amazing.

It took a bit of fettling with oil weights to get both the Smashpot and damper side dials being effective where I needed them to be. The standard oil didn’t give the right range of tweaking from the dials.

Anyway, it’s a bad ass fork now, set at 180mm.

This is exactly what i run. DHR 2’s 2.4 WT front and back. I find the cornering is much better and straight line braking is improved too. I’m using EXO+ casings on the trail bike, but DD casing on the rear of the ‘Gnarpoon’

I’m running FLow Mk3’s and other rims around the 30mm internal mark.

I find it better cornering than the DHF, with more predictable slide (when it does, which is rare) so i know where the edge of traction is before i get spat out the front.

Also, running 1x is about simplifying drive chain. Less mud crevices etc: a bash just adds more elements back in there.

Having said that, i run one on my big bike, where it’s more likely to hit rocks and have stuff fly up. My trail bike is ‘naked’ however.

Years ago, there were bikes called ‘hybrids’. They were kinda like a cross between an MTB and a road bike. Sound like a new niche?

I reckon my Sonder Ti, flat bar, rigid bike with 40c 29er tyres on is pretty good all round. Sort of like a hybrid.

maybe you should demand she STFU? That is not how healthy relationships work. Imagine the uproar if the husband demanded the wife to be back at a set time.

Ha, well…. as i mentioned before, it’s not her/them that are being demanding. I just value the balance we find through compromise. Doesn’t work for everyone i guess, but it DOES for us.

It’s more than enough. TBH though Snowdon is just a tick box, it’s not even a very good ride/push. I’ve done it in late April, and even then people felt it was OK to challenge me, coming down Rangers I gave way to that many walkers that it wasn’t flowy or enjoyable, and one shouted and dived out of the way in the style of soldiers in war films when a grenade is thrown…(That was actually pretty funny)

It’s an outdoor mall for the Cotswold set, and they’ve claimed it as their own, give it a swerve. At least it keeps them all in one place, and everywhere else is less busy as a result.

It is indeed only a checkbox item for me too. But, you may be right enough and i’ll just give it a miss.

Seems it’s not a very good idea then. Fair enough.

The wife/children conundrum is of my own doing TBF… neither of them has asked me to be back early. I’m just trying to consider all needs etc:

I guess the two other days i have riding at Antur Stiniog will see me with as much riding as is fair.

Just have kids/wife demands around 8ish to be back for. If i start at 5, it’ll be dark by the time i get back down.

As nice as it would be to see the sunset, that window of opportunity is closed to me!

3hrs (pushing-walking) up for an old bloke like me, with 1 down?

Ive got the Madison Zenith softshell 3/4 short. They def well below the knee on me, more like halfway down my calf. But then i have short legs

on sale here too…….

Zenith shorts

That’s sounds promising then @dilwyn….

Although a little frustrating as I’ve just got the bombers from the shed and a packet of biscuits.

I use a ‘lifeproof’ case for my iPhone, with Quad-lock mount stuck to the back of that. When i need to have my phone ‘on-bike’ i just swap sase. Takes 2 mins

My riding headphones are bluetooth anyway.

You get extra range by using an 11 speed shimano mech (on your 10 speed set-up), i’m doing this and it works just fine.

Sunrace do an 11-46 casette which would give larger range, but with slightly bigger jumps.

I have 165’s on all my bikes. I have for years now.
My legs are on the shorter side, but mainly it’s because i can get more ground clearance. This is especially useful on more modern ‘low’ frames.

With good technique, the main real advantage of ‘torque’ on longer cranks is negated a bit.

new pump track destined for the Black Rock area of Brighton tho….. That should be good. And, you know there’s a great one in Newhaven right?

Saint SPD’s for me too. Ive added new longer (very spikey looking) pins, which also help loads. If i cant clip straight in, i still feel like i can ride no problem.

I’ve had my RaceFace aefect cranks into a Shimano Bb. It was tighter than sticking Shimano cranks in there, but with some grease eventually went in ok.

Boostify your Hope wheels, its easy and no real compromise. I use the Wolftooth bosstinator kit, which spaces the disk and then redish the wheels slightly.

Boost is no real benefit AFA i can tell. Just more marketing b•llocks. Also youre right about second hand forks, in the non-boost variety.

Cranks: well, depends on your cranks, but chainline might be the only issue if they clear the new frames chainstay.

Yes, but it’s the way the seams cross as more diagonals, rather than straight up in squares that makes them quite comfy.

Polaris do a good 3/4
Most of mine are fox ones tho. Don’t rub for me.

t ain’t “that” steep.
Tricky couple of switchbacks near the bottom but apart from that a good fun trail.

Sure, it’s all ridable, but it’s definitely steep. I like steep so that’s all good, but as advice for someone who might ride it, with no understanding of their ability, I thought the term steep seemed appropriate.

As for children on XC bikes, they would have to have been riding for quite a while I’d say. Not a trail I would suggest for families.

Yep, finishes in Lourtier.
What Bruneeps video doesn’t show effectively, is the steepness. Oh the steepness.

If you can load that GPX, the trail starts at marker 40, near the top of the lift, then goes all the way to bottom of gondola at marker 54.

Try this- not sure if I can link from my phone.

Vertigo gpx