Mines still going strong after 3 years of abuse. Inflated tons of tyres, with great success.
It’s not small tho, in fact it’s pretty big and heavy. presure gauge is close to accurate, but not perfect. Great pump.

ok, thats good to know.
I hadn’t looked at frame only prices from Sonder yet. I have a fork i want to use (coil 130mm) and want to build the wheels myself, so the full build kit from SOnder is not for me.

I already have a Signal Ti, so i’m happy with the bike. Just want to go internal geared.

ah yes, i see it now.
Would that not affect the robustness/rigidity of the frame? Maybe not, but looks like a weak spot.

So, TaulPaul, why did you not go for the Signal, but went for the Nordest instead?

@ta11pau1

Nordest Lacrau 2 Ti Pinion

maybe i’m missing something from the images, but exactly how do you change the gates belt in this? i can see any split chainstay etc:?

@ta11pau1
Thanks, I didn’t see that, I’ll have a read.

Interesting about the drag tho, that’s very helpful to know.

Also good to know about the degree engagement required. It’s gonna be a bike for ‘non technical’ riding mainly, as my other (ahem) 4 bikes have that covered.

Shifting under load I’m ok with, as on the Alfine it was a small change in approach to overcome that.

Thanks for replies all.

The ProVis 360 Gillet is pretty good solution. It’s very far from breathable, but with the front zip undone when you get hot, and a lightish base layer underneath, it’s a good solution as it lights up from a great distance in the glare of headlights.

When you’ve got the right feel for the balance point/sweet spot, the bike makes almost no difference.

Practice the ‘loop out, jump off the back’ routine until you can stop the bike upright before it loops out, front wheel in the air, balanced.

Then, wheelies and manuals come quite easily.

If I ever ride on the road (which is rare due to afformentioned idiot drivers) I wear a Pro-vis 360 gillet, which is very visible and am lit up like a Christmas tree with rear helmet and seat post mounted bike light.

If they don’t see me, they wouldn’t have seen a police car on a call. No hope there.

@benpinnick

thanks for that. I thought so, but wise to check. The wheel is indeed boost anyway.

Thanks everyone for the pointers.
Now just to get more riding done. At least I’ve given myself years to train.

I tend to run around 25psi in my rear tyre and 23 in the front

This is my pressures, running 2.4WT tyres. But, i’m 110kgs. Haven’t pinched, or dinged a rim in a long time. Alps, BPW and general tomfoolery resistant pressures.

Possibly cougars at the Eastbourne end….

Known for it… but if you travel back as soon as you get there and don’t go out for a celebratory drink, you’ll most likely escape their attention.

The bloke in the video was running a belt drive, by the looks of it.

He was. An American made frame. As the current owner of a Sonder Signal Ti, i was quite interested in Sonders ‘bespoke’ option for Pinion bikes. Might have a look there first.

Now which pinion, belt drive, ‘not steel’ short forked hardtail for bikepacking easy off-road trails? It’s the new kit that’s driving me to it really…..

@JoB
Thanks, i’ll take a read. Writing and drawing eh! Is there no end……

@fasthaggis

Have a wee look at some of the Tour Divide training blogs,gives you a good idea of what’s required,even if you are not doing race pace.

The flipping Tour Divide is what’s got me into this unusual state of contemplation. But yes, that’s what i’m currently doing. Ta.

@martinhutch

If you’re doing SDW singles then multiday distance really shouldn’t be much of a jump up.

Ah, well i’m not currently doing a SDW-in a day type distance. 2 day SDW is best so far.

@ajantom

Read ‘Journey to the centre of the earth’ by Nicholas and Richard Crane.
This inspired most of the longer bike tours and adventures I did in my 20s.

Thanks i’ll check that out.

@JoB
Thanks Jo… as you actually have ridden with me many times, the comedy of me wanting to do long rides that go uphill for miles can’t be lost on you? (chunk / Lee Salvidge)

I’ve done a few multi-day rides in the past (the SDW and 4-5 back to back longer rides when on holidays) but day-in day-out long distance point-to-point riding is new to me.

Good tips about working within certain thresholds too, as most of my rides are short enough to be done a pretty much full tilt and still survive. Pace has never been my strength. Strength is my strength in fact. Sprint, power down, push big gears.

Day-after-day riding is my first plan, without distance (and therefore time) becoming an issue. Them move to more sporadic but long miles multi-day rides after.

Also, for added perspective, i found the rim width to be much more critical on the Butcher 2.6’s i used. The sidewalls are quite thin and found them to roll very easily and feel ‘squirmy’.

As a Heiffer, i sold them and went back to Maxxis tyres, but a wider rim may have had a better outcome?

Renowned for getting wobbles are Maxxis.
I’ve warped 2 just by hitting berms too hard with my substantial bulk.

Never happened to a different brand tho.

It’s was a ‘ SCOTT Trail MTN Tech GTX Active Jacket’

Berghaus XXL’s are pretty big.
I struggle to find jackets big enough too! I recently bought a Scott goretext shell jacket and was surprised how big it was. Fits great in XXL.

Just get a 650 bike and run 26” wheels/fork?

I have a Moon xpower 2500lmn and it’s flipping bright. You could easily go for the 1800lmn version and have ample light.

On second highest setting you’ll easily get 3hr ride from it.

Clamp is great, external battery is well sealed and the remote switch is pretty good too.

When he’s not looking- put loads and loads of ‘Stans fluid’ in his tyres. He won’t feel so sprightly then.

martinhutch
Full Member
Should have worn a spine protector.

very good…..

it’s on the expensive end of solution, but my ‘Showers Pass’ overtrousers have dedictaed braces which work a treat.

SHowers pass refuge trouser

40-45c no problem.
I’m running 40’s on my carbon rims with 22mm internal.

I know for sure that the ’11 speed XT mech’ works well with 10 speed shifter/cassette.
That’s what i used to run to get the 46t bigger cog on the 10 speed cassette.

My new 4pof SLX’s are almost as good as my Saints. Cheaper too.

I use a pair of ‘plantronics babckbeat fit’ headphones.

Like these

Batteries last ages, they’re waterproof, and the rubber strap at the back is very sure and comfortable.

Microphone works well to take calls while riding too.

Autumn

Make it the same colour as an autumnal forest. It’ll always been beautiful and in vogue then.

Cheap SealSkinz overshoes on ‘Sportpursuit’ site right now. £18 reduced from £50

I’m old enough to have passed the stage where I really believe a better bike will provide some kind of joy for me.

Riding a bike provides joy. no matter which bike TBH.

Having said that, I do ride it pretty hard, so I need something strong without weighing a ton. This means I have to spend more than the average.

My current (trail) bike is a Specialized S-works Stumpjumper coil. It was reduced by 50% when I bought it, but still cost 3k. It’s fine, but I won’t spend that much against a number of years. I reckon I’ll get 6 years out of this current bike.

I can afford to buy what I like though, but still wouldn’t spend much more than this.

^^^ how do those jackets size up ?

Come up a little smaller than other brands I’d say. Go a Size up if you’re in doubt.

for the price/service/reliability…. cant easily beat MTB batteries.
They’re great.

IME the gription was more slidey on wet roots. So much so I sold by butchers after 2 rides.

Yeah, 30mm internal is the starting point. 2.3 is about the max you’ll find good to ride on 23mm internals.

I just use that LifeLine X-Tools Saw Guide and a hacksaw.
Does a pretty accurate job every time. Just finish up with a file to remove and extra bits. Job done. £15 too, so cheap.