Apple Health, built in to the phone if you’re on iOS, does this perfectly. I assume that Google Fit does similar, if you’re on the dark side of the mobile platform wars.

It’s plaster straight on to stone. Batten + glue sounds like best plan then. Thanks!

hardest wearing, longest lasting, toughest

This will be a cast iron pan. But per above requires a bit more maintenance, and definitely not one for the dishwasher.

From memory (and hope someone comes along to prove me wrong) not much in the way of MTB trails around Biggar. But some cracking road rides around there. You could even do a nice road trip out to Wanlockhead/Lowther Hill and back.

having done it now (thanks for all the input) it’s what @robbie said. Not much in it either way – I took north side one day, south the other. North does offer a detour to see the odd little cairn with some interesting history a couple kilometres up a side road.

if I had to choose I’d probably pick north side, but really not much difference.

Would this work?

Thanks all! Sounds like much of a muchness so will flip a coin on the day.

I Am Not An Engineer, but I do own a couple of EBB bikes set up as single-speed, however not fixie. Re above @abingham – I doubt that the rotational forces on EBB during fixie braking are any different than mashing on the pedals on a steep uphill.

But – as an old fart I also think all fixies should have a front brake at minimum anyway…

They all have crap customer service. I’ve been with EE for a decade, not because they are great but because they aren’t any worse than the others, and I’m on all old tariff/bundle they don’t do anymore, and I don’t have the energy to put together similar with another supplier.

As everyone says – best bet is to check (maybe get a PAYG SIM?) signal in your preferred areas – home, work, etc – and go with whichever network does best for you there.

Living in Scotland, I know nothing about UK air conditioning, but growing up in the south of the US my family and everyone I knew had A/Cs that fit in their sash windows.

Is this an option for your use case? They aren’t the most efficient but should be able to handle your requirements, and are easy to install (if you have suitable windows).

Something like this: https://www.orionairsales.co.uk/fujitsu-air-conditioning-amy-window-unit-69-c.asp

Thanks for tips. My combination of nonexistent electrical skills plus the useless docs from this product mean I haven’t been able to get it to work. Returning it for another smart thermostat that seems to get good reviews, and should hopefully be easier to wire in. In fact, @sharkbait – I’m also going for an underfloor heating thermostat, which from what I can tell online should also work for a towel rail.

Not really – as you don’t have confirmation that the “dumb” thermostat will be set to a particular temperature. We’re wanting it set low in the winter, for frost protection.

So I’m guessing there’s no helpful answers on wiring this in, just the usual STW “you’re asking the wrong question” replies? :-)

It’s for a holiday home, so purpose is to able to switch off or on (or confirm switched off or on) when we are a few hundred miles away.

Not sure if bump required…

Broad range? £0 to £10,000

I know – not helpful. Valuing vintage MTBs is hard, and really even more than usual comes down to what it’s worth to someone else. Maybe sentimental reasons, etc. Component group and condition will matter greatly as well – Campy Record OR in mint condition, or falling apart Shimano STX? What forks? Etc etc.

Best bet is probably the Vintage/Retro forum on MTBR.

FWIW – I was looking to sell my Dad’s classic Klein MTB, late 80s with lovely XT group, and offers were far less than what it was worth to me for sentimental reasons. So really, hard to know what the value is. In fact, just found my forum post there: https://www.mtbr.com/threads/help-me-id-this-late-1980s-klein-bike-mountain-klein-or-early-pinnacle.1034828/

FWIW2 – I always lusted after those square frame Pace MTBs!

Good luck!

Quick piccie as I was at the FA shop about half an hour ago.

Bookmarking, as I’d like to know the answer too.

@Vader – awesome stuff, huge thanks for the detailed input. I didn’t realize I need to cover the pointing indoors. Will plastic sheeting be OK, or am I supposed to use the proper Hessian fabric?

Also – didn’t realize I needed to go a good 2cm of joint depth; I’ve generally been scraping until I got to relatively good mortar. And yeah – interesting mix of stuff in the mortar – don’t think I’ve found any clay, but have found bits of straw, twigs, and coal within the aggregate.

@andrewh – hah! No chance of that here – walls are over two feet thick!

The high level bit adds in some even steeper sections. Nice views (weather permitting), but the lower level section from FA to Invermorriston is more rideable.

Well worth considering the South side of Loch Ness (per @RichMTB above). Some additional technical sections (which can be walked), and more interesting views IMHO.

Either way, a good (big) day out, or a very nice few days, depending on how you do it.

Hmm… OK. Any recommendations for a smart heat sensor, or should I just not bother?

Hi TJ – to be fair we have no expertise here, but we had thought front wheel would be easiest and quickest conversion? Can you elaborate on why it’s a bad idea, and what your recommendation would be?

“Every time you change gear, God kills kitten”

All time favourite.

Agreed – also on my SS. Wish I had stocked up on a few more of these!

Oh OK – thanks!

Wireless/battery-powered shed alarm that makes a s**t-ton of noise?

Weird – searching differently got me to the free with Prime version. But I’m also being offered the not free version. Thanks for the tip – will watch tonight!

Is anyone seeing it available for free? I’m only seeing as rent or purchase, or free with a 7-day “Sports” trial. Looks cool though – thanks for the headsup!

Been using AB since whenever – several years. Have on all my MTBs, but not on my road bikes. Contrary to what AB says, I think they are better for lower-cadence pedalling than higher cadences.

I continue to support the company and like their products, but their customer service has gone downhill a bit the last couple of years. Order from a bike shop vs direct from manufacturer if you can, as their shipping times and stock maintenance seem to have gotten particularly bad.

Usual caveats re advice from randos on the interwebs, etc etc.

I think you handled it perfectly. The notice period should be mutual (in writing), and my own view on notice periods as an employee is the longer the better. If you wish to leave earlier that can often be negotiated at the time, otherwise you’re getting more protection from redundancies/etc.

Usually longer (3-6 month) notice periods are associated with more senior roles, but there’s usually little downside to a longer notice period. The key concern you’d need to consider is if you had a better offer elsewhere then would this 3 month notice period, if your current employer required you to complete it, be a hindrance to the new employers offering the job. This is general industry/seniority specific, and you’d need to make your own call on that.

I’ve been using Mous cases since their kickstarter, and have converted one of my daughters and several friends to them. Worth checking out, if for no other reason than their videos, such as one below where they drop a Mous-encased phone “from the edge of space” with some high school science students.

https://uk.mous.co/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PywmDoENqdE

Can’t say definitively for Indonesia, but Malaysia and Singapore normally use what I (as an American) call “normal” – ie US/Continental – brake setups, while having RHD cars. I would expect Indo to be similar.

From memory and having ridden in a number of countries, the only places I can think of that use “UK-style” brakes are Japan and Australia. I’m sure there’s others, but I haven’t come across them.

Unlike the others here, this feels to me like it would be within the spirit if not the letter of the law. We’re in unprecedented times, and the current rules can’t foresee every situation. Use common sense, and this feels within common sense to me, especially if the garage door is open.

Or – bubble with the friend and you’ll be 100% within the letter of the law.

Yes – my understanding is no servowave on the Race version. Not sure if I’m allowed to link to MBR? https://www.mbr.co.uk/reviews/disc-brakes-products/shimano-xtr-dual-ctrl-hydraulic-244-67

Shimano offers two XTR brakes: Trail and Race. The latter lacks the power-boosting ServoWave lever design and finned brake pads, but it is lighter as a result.

Thanks for all the tips, and still thinking about *my* next mini/micro amp. Went for a THR series for the daughterkins, she’s happy with it. I think I’ll be looking for budget electric guitars in my next thread, to reclaim my guitar.

Been following, and very interesting, but also shows just how fragile the capital markets are in today’s age of social media. While as a gamer I’m super pleased with the (current) outcome of this activity, imagine if the Redditors had decided to focus their ire on another company, through short selling.

Thanks all. Clarkston area. Both medium/high-end bikes, so assume they’ll be parted but here’s hoping. Just spent £300 on various service/replacement stuff on the road bike… :-(

Similar situation here. My concern with Ka and Panda is safety – they have some of the lowest safety ratings of modern cars. I’m thinking a Fiesta or similar as well, for slightly better safety.

Thanks for all the tips, and especially @robvalentine for kind offer, however I’m in Scotland.

On the basis of “buy cheap, buy twice” I’ll up my budget a bit and scour eBay/etc for a used Yamaha THR series.

@Gribs:

We’d probably have better health outcomes overall if we ignored covid entirely and enforced the healthy eating and exercise guidelines, especially if we included the advice about smoking and alcohol consumption.

This. I’ve been saying from as soon as comorbidity data started coming out that governments globally would save more people, and more money, if they simply banned McDonalds (and similar) and tobacco. There’s a direct correlation between the fattest countries (UK, USA, Brazil, etc) and the highest death rates.

And I say this an at-risk overweight male in the 50+ age range.

Genuine question here, not trying to stir stuff up, I just don’t know the rules here in the UK well enough for this specific situation: If a cyclist was filtering on the outside of stopped traffic, does this mean that the cyclist has some responsibility in this situation for showing undue care, etc?

@marko – OK thanks. I didn’t realize this was such a contentious thing. I’m guessing you haven’t used removable core Presta valves – which are most Prestas nowadays. They do resolve most if not all of your issues.

1. Remove the core and seating tubeless is a piece of cake (with a compressor). Heck you can even pour sealant in through the valve!

You can do this with Presta too.

2. Gummed up with sealant? Remove the core and stick in another.

Same with Presta. I like these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Holdlebe-Universal-Removable-Tubeless-Presta/dp/B0761QKNHD/ref=asc_df_B0761QKNHD/

3. Use a valve dust cap that incorporates the core removal tool. (£1.90 for 4 on Merlin).

The nice thing about Presta is you don’t even need a dust cap. I never bother. But if you do want one, here ya go, with core remover! https://www.amazon.co.uk/Granite-Nipples-Openwork-Aluminium-Bicycle/dp/B07KK67F7Q/ref=asc_df_B07KK67F7Q/

Or just use a spoke key to remove the core, which you probably have on your multi-tool anyway.

5. Burped the tyre on a ride? Find a garage and use the airline. Adapters not required.

Or just use a tubeless inflator, which I have with me anyway.

Hey fair dues if you don’t want to use Presta. But I’m not seeing massive benefits of Schraeder, or reasons to not allow Presta near my bikes!

And – show me Schraeder valves in pimpy colors, like you can get with Presta! :-)