Not cheap, but best bottle cages I’ve come across – never bounced a bottle out:

http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/BOPXPC/planet-x-pro-carbon-bottle-cage

Go on sale off and on for half-price, so keep an eye out.

Sorry for thread hijack – I have a place in the event, which I now cannot use. Has anyone had experience with transferring a registration – is this possible? And if so – does anyone want a highly-discounted place?

Can you get unlimited download caps on mobile plans? With quick googling seems to me that all the mobile plans are expensive, and none had unlimited caps.

I have a 2015 Ford Fiesta 5 door that looks similar to this:

2015 Ford Fiesta 5 door

I use one of these, which works fine fitting under the mini spoiler on the Fiesta:

Halfords rear high mount 3 bike carrier

Haha – for various reasons a bigger shed, and inside storage, are both not options.

Seems to be £55 now. Or is Amazon jacking up the price for me since I’m a Prime member?

For those using Rock & Roll a quick question… Having moved back to Scotland from a much warmer place, I’m finding my Rock & Roll lube turns to a waxy mush as soon as I put it on the chain – before I can even wipe it off it gets big waxy boogers between the links and in the cassette. Does this happen for others, and if so do you do anything about it or just leave it as-is?

PS: happens for both the blue and the gold for me…

Bump for the weekend crowd, if anyone interested in a free ticket.

I’ve got and am happy with:

This stove:

Alpkit Kraku stove

Along with a 100g gas canister and some tin foil for wind break, stored inside of this mug:

Alpkit MytiMug

Hated to scratch, but as mentioned started the race (with doctor’s OK I will add, for the benefit of my wife looking over my shoulder just now…) with suspected Lymes disease and on meds. That might have been the reason, or it could just be a lack of manliness. Was feeling good until Struy, then lost all energy.

Anyway – will try again next year, and wanted to say a big thank you to Alan and Greg.

@nik – for what it’s worth, I’m photo 38 in the section around Glencoe ski center, and 32 on back side of Devil’s Staircase. Not sure if you caught me before or after my stack, but in any case was nowhere near as bad as Steve’s.

@scotroutes’ comment is interesting. Is front/right rear/left really a legal obligation, like reflectors would be? Or is it a convention?

In any case, per above, should only need bar-tape, if you can’t reuse the tape you pull up.

Good question, following for my own interest. The pulleys definitely made of cheese.

For what it’s worth – don’t know for sure, but I believe there is supposed to be some difference in tuning for light frequencies for colors. I’ve used my Trail glasses on several road rides, haven’t died, and am still (a couple of months in) very very pleased with them overall. As said above – when taking them off, everything does seem grey.

The other thing you may need to do – depending on Garmin model – is “activate” the map. On my 810 it’s something like Activity Profile -> Navigation -> Maps -> select the map and activate.

Thanks all – that explains it. Ordered what I hope to be the correct pads.

Anyone need a set (for F&R) of the “old style” pads, free of charge? Email is in my profile – send me your address and I’ll post the unusable ones out.

–Kristan

Been several years since I was out there – walking. The walking path from Kinloch Hourn was not rideable then – would have been a several mile bicycle push.

There was a MTB magazine article several years ago (I forget which mag) where they rode/pushed in from Loch Arkaig and Sourlies. It’s definitely rideable (mostly) from Loch Arkaig to Sourlies, as I’ve done that bit on bicycle, but apparently mostly hike-a-bike in to Inverie from there.

A lovely place though. I think more suitable for hillwalking than cycling, though.

I’m signed up. Did a quick trail reccy with a couple nights camping this week. Weather was atrocious – had to turn back a couple kilometers before the big Fisherfield river crossing, as one of the wee burns was a raging river. Really hoping the weather turns spring- or even summer-like before the race, instead of the winter weather Scotland still seems to be having.

As with @hisalar I’m not sure about my food planning yet – definitely not stuffing enough calories into myself, which resulted in cold and slowness.

Looking forward to the race!

Thanks. It’s with every pair of shoes, including hiking and running – but is biggest problem when I’m cycling. I have “winter” cycling shoes which are a size larger just for reason you mentioned – to fit extra layers of socks – although they aren’t proper winter cycling shoes with their own waterproofing.

Thanks for all the tips – will check out Gear and Bikelove. Any thoughts on Clarkston Cycle Center?

Which rear light is that?

Where’s the best price for them online?

Not quite the same, but I really enjoyed “24 Solo” and “Off Road to Athens”.

Had some positive experiences with S-Works Fast-Track and Renegade – light tires, reasonable traction (in the dry) but found the sidewalls weak. Have gone back to my answer for every “what tire” question – Small Block 8’s.

@tragically1969 – you aren’t able to simply ride around someone, without having to yell/jab/assault? It’s not that difficult to overtake another cyclist while simply ignoring them – happens to me all the time from miserable roadies!

I faced similar question, went with Di2 for easier maintenance. As my road bike is my primary commuter bike, I didn’t want to faff with adjusting derailleur cables – which while admittedly wasn’t that often, but when it did occur seemed to usually be required at the 6:30am, pre-coffee start of my commute.

Both are groups are outstanding, you won’t go wrong with either choice.

What DrP said – don’t bother but say you did.

Thanks – any others out there tho? The lightest one on that page is still >400g, versus 270g for Alpkit, and about £20 more.

I use one of these – works well for me:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/de/en/topeak-dual-touch-bike-stand/rp-prod28862

Another option if you aren’t sure – purchase a spare cheap microSD card for your OSM maps, and swap between SD cards. No risk of losing the Garmin maps there?

Short answer is you should be able to do that, but some people do experience problems with multiple maps on a single card. Hasn’t been a problem on my 810. Here’s a link for how to switch between maps:

http://ridewithgps.com/edge_810

I had what sounds to be exact same injury about three years ago – shattered calcaneum, various metal bits put into my foot and ankle including fusing the subtalor joint. I have lost a lot of mobility in that ankle in all dimensions – but once back on the bike I did not feel any need to change my cleat or seat position. It all seems to be mostly working, on- and off-road.

Interestingly I do have Garmin Vector pedals on the road bike, and with the new Pedal Dynamics stuff I see that my right foot applies most of the force well off (outside) the center line, but again – doesn’t seem to have any impact on my overall left-right power output, or comfort.

So – one data point for you anyway. Feel free to contact me (email in profile) if you want some more advice on how I got back on the bike, and experiences to date.

OK – that didn’t work. Trying again.

@Rorschach – YGM

EDIT: sorry for the double post. Is it possible to delete posts on the forum? Can’t figure out how.

@Rorschach – YGM

I’m generally a fan of polarized lenses for Oakleys (my cycling and my casual Oakleys both have polarized lenses), but one thing to keep in mind – the polarized lenses do seem to delaminate or something after about a year. I’ve had a couple replaced just within warranty period, and a couple that developed the problem just after warranty expired. In any case, the lenses are good enough that I am OK with buying new lenses when required.

On more, @gatsby, please. kristan.rivers at me.com

I replaced my Stans with Light Bicycle carbon 29er rims (on some DT hubs I bought for the task) – what a world of difference. On a strict weight-for-weight comparison, the carbon rims are noticeably stiffer, something I didn’t think I would notice but did. I’ve ridden the last month minus a couple of spokes in the rear, as haven’t had a chance to repair, and wheel is still fairly true.

Hubs don’t make much real world difference except for maintenance costs and schedules – but if we wanted easy and cheap to maintain we’d all be on Shimano hubs.

My recommendation – go with Light Bicycle or similar carbon rims, and spend what you can afford on a good wheelbuilder. Have him/her recommend the hubs, and then try to actually take their advice (I’ve never taken Al’s at Wheelcraft, giving him ample opportunities for “I told you so” the next time I’m in).

Last bump for the evening crowd

Bump for the afternoon crowd.

In a similar vein and at risk of hijack, any recommendations on a factory (not bespoke or build-yourself) fixie with discs?