I went in today, what a pile of crap! mostly 10% off (even though claimed 30%), you’d get a better deal buying from internet.

sc-xc I have such a disc and have just created an ISO file of it, do you have access to another pc with a cd burner?

If so send me an email and i’ll let you know what to do.

I regularly check in on 28DL, I used to work at Cwm Coking Works Beddau which seems to be a popular subject matter on there.

Some awsome photography on that site.

Well here’s my effort, I liked the Enduro so much I built up a stumpy!

I know what you mean Hora about the top heavy feel, I cured that by putting the seat as low as it’ll go for the downs. A pain in the ass but works really well especially with a coil shock.

Where you drive as much as how you drive will play a factor. Even motorway driving with lots of small braking / accelerating (Lorry’s pulling out etc) will kill fuel economy.

The real world figures are very different from the on board computer (DIS). My driving is mainly motorway, mileages average from 60 – 200 miles general driving at around 70 – 80. What I have found is that the real mpg value is noramlly 10% lower than indicated. I have corrected this on my A6 Avant now (VCDS).

2005 A3 20tdi Sport – Averaged low 50’s
2002 A4 Avant 1.9tdi SE – Avraged high 40’s
2006 A6 Saloon 20tdi SE – Averaged high 40’s
2009 A5 Sport 20tdi Sline – Averaged mid 40’s
2010 A6 Avant 20tdie Sline – Average mid to high 40’s

Real world is that if I drive at a constant 60 then the figures jump up by about 10%. For some reason (And many other VAG drivers see this) when the temperature drops the fuel econonmy does too.

Unfortunately by the time the theft has taken place punishment is pretty futile, the root cause needs addressing.
I firmly beleive that re-establishing a national service will help to instill a level of self integrity that will address some of these problems.
I understand that this will be expensive, however we have excellent ex armed forces personel who have come back from tours of duty and are sidlined by the forces. These are the real world teachers society needs (School teachers do an excellent service too, but they do not have the level or type of first hand experiences ex armed forces have).
Also if the young crime costs (Including imprisonment costs) can actually be calculated then i’m sure that a national service may actually be a cost saving initiative.

Unfortunately the probelm is that this is a no goer due to spineless governments that are only interested in short term goals with short term gains.

There aint nothin better than the Hulk, cut off jeans, ripped shirt and paint yourself green……..YEAH!!!

Smith Pivlock is what I use, comes with 3 lenses and no fogging issues.

39 and mortgage free as of Sept this year, I have never remortgaged or moved. 2yrs ago I took out a 2nd mortgage on a 2nd property buy to let as a retirement nest egg, that’s planned to be paid off in 18 years but i’ll shift most of that down to 10.

My old A4 B6 Avant (Same as above) was fine for biking, regulary had 3 bikes in the back (Wheels removed of course!). As a measure I could fit more in the A4 Avant than I could in my A6 saloon. It’s quite a lot bigger than than the A4 Saloon version (Which did not come with 40/60 split seats until the face lift 2005+).

If it was my money i’d go with this: –

Audi A4 2.5tdi Quattro

qwerty +1

That where I got mine from recently. No issues, quick delivery and cheapest around for what I wanted.

Here you go: – Grandvalira Bike Park

I would check out the numerous VW / Audi forums on the net to see if this is a common problem, there may be a simple fix. You will also get a true opinion of repair costs.

I had a Patterdale / Lakeland cross years ago, he was a great dog with a great temprement / character. He looked like gnasher from the Beano too! Ah I miss old Scruff 🙁

AA maybe so, but I grew up in the Welsh Valleys whereby the the average distance to work was under 10 miles. I have also been made redundant 5 times but have never signed on. I know first hand what it is to be looking at a mortgage with no income, my decision……..do somehting about it.

I spend 80% of my working week in hotels all around the country, I travel approx 35k miles per year. I make massive family sacrifices, I choose to have no children, I pay lots of tax but have no state burden.

You still think I come across as an utter ****?

You make assumptions that you know nothing about, you have never met me nor know nothing about me.

This narks me quite a bit.

“Fact; There are very few jobs in a shrinking economy”

Not necessarily, if you are prepared to move about there are good, well paid jobs all over the country (I employ engineering people all over the uk and know the markets well). The problem is that most on benefits think its a god given right to have a local job using the old excuse “there’s no work around here” – WELL FRICKIN MOVE TO WHERE THERE IS WORK!!!!.

“Lies; People on benefits are scroungers” maybe so, but the majority are lazy, stubborn and don’t think outside the box (This has absolutely nothing to do with intelligence).

Tax & benefit reforms are needed, this is a small country punching way above its weight with ever deminishing control over it’s governing policies. If it needs to take serious steps backwards to ensure survival then so be it.

Sure Northwind, the main difference for me was in the rebound, even though Lyriks share the same oil for both rebound & compression. As I run the floodgate mod in my old lyriks this emulated the new RC2DH (although there is an improvement in compression too). It’s also worth noting I had the Boxxer mod on my old Lyriks whereby the rubber internal wiper seals were replaced with foam rings (the same as what is on the 09 boxxers), this is what is standard now on all RS 35mm forks.

On my old lyriks I ran only 2-3 clicks of rebound, on my new ones i’m up to 5-6 (I weigh 90ks loaded). I attribute this to the higher / better oil flow and thus lower circuit resistance (larger porting), also as there’s more oil in the rebound / compression circuit the heat loading capacity is noticably better and with no noticable change in rebound / compression. On my old Lyriks during long decents (Not necessarily DH type runs) the fork would suffer minor (but noticable) packdown / stiffness on larger square egde hits. As I mentioned above the stantion would gain heat (A bit like the air can on rear air shox), this was being transfered from the oil and as both the rebound and compression share the same oil the effect is magnified. As the RC2DH system is roughly the same as before (with my mods) I run 5 x 5 clicks of High and Low speed compression which is marginally higher than before.

I would not say the difference is “night and day” or “revolutionary” (This may be because I had moded my old Lyriks to nearly the same spec as the RC2DH!) but the difference is deffinately there. I have run the 2 forks back to back on White levels and cwm carn and the new Lyrik is better, more controlled, responsive and most deffinately smoother. From the box however I recomend the following to get the best out of the fork: –

Strip the fork down replace the seal lube for Judy Butter and use plenty of it.
When lubing the foam seals use the reccomended oil but also smear Judy Butter on the foam seals too, this really helps.
I add an extra 2ml to lowers, what is reccomended I feel is too little and as the fork become active there needs to be enough oil to coat the fork internals as well as move around the fork.

They are both great forks though and the only reason for buying the new Lyrik was the extra 10mm and I didn’t want U-Turn.

Hope this helps 🙂

Onza, it’s more likely that you’ve wound out the rebound too far as the cap is not going up and down. The rebound cap is connected to a small insert that is held in place to the top cap assembly by an o ring, there’s also a threaded section that lifts and lowers the rebound. It seems that this is wound out too far, try pushing down on the cap and winding in the rebound, once the thread eganges it should be good to go.

FWIW!

I’ve run a first generation Lyrik coil (With Floodgate mod) from 2007 and now have the 2011/12 RC2 DH coil. I’ve also had access to a 36 Talas and float RC2 for the last 3 years, I also do all of the servicing on all 3 forks. Pro’s and cons (In my opinion) are :-

Servicing:-

Lyrik – Simple as its coil, intervals are spaced as per performance rather than manufacturers reccomandations. If you invest £££ in decent lube (Oil & Grease) then these maintenance tasks are greatly reduced.

36’s – Both were air so VERY different on the servicing front, the major servicing of 36’s can be daunting especially when they went from open bath to the FIT system. The intervals are in my opinion unlrealistic for something that is supposed to be rugged and durable. The invetstment in decent lube does not seem to improve servicing intervals, especailly as in the back of your mind you will always be wondering what the condition of your stantions are like. I have also found that the standard sealing on Fox is poorer than Rockshox, however I do not believe that this is soley causing the stantion wear issue.

The Ride: –

Lyrik – As expected for a coil fork it is nice and linear without the mission control dialled in, when you do start the fiddling process the effects of both high speed and low speed compression can be felt but are quite subtle until your on the trail. On long decents with the rockshox reccomended 442 mission control (with floodgate mod) / rebound setting there was a noticable warming of the stantion! This means that the system is working as it should. The Rebound is the area where thankfully RS have improved, with the larger orifice the oil flow is improved and the difference between the 2 forks is very noticable and more controlled on the newer fork.

36 TALAS – I’ll start with the TALAS, my epxerience is that the fork is compromised by the TALAS system. Lots of stiction along with quick drop off in performance after servicing means that this is the price you pay for a high tech adjustable fork. Setting up the Compression / rebound is not as easy as the Lyrik, the effects of both high and low speed compresison adjustemnt is not as subtle and tends to be in “jumps”. This may be due to the poor small bump compliance but I certainly found the fiddle factor a lot more of a pain in the ass than the lyrik.

36 FLOAT – For an air fork this is a good fork, however not without minor faults. HS / LS compression is improved (which is why I make the comment about TALAS), they are a very light fork so there’s a big benefit for bikes on a diet. The downfall is that the sealing is poor and so the ride does suffer quite quickly after servicing, and also setting up the air pressure correctly is a bit hit and miss with ramp up compromising fork travel.

My Summary : –

The lyrik is now fit and forget across all models, easy and simple to service and setup. Service longivity is good if a bit homework is done. What I don’t like about Lyriks? Nothing really, they seem to be in tune with what riders want i.e. the flood gate mod became the RC2DH system. They look good, work well and are designed to do the job.

36’s are a very good fork, and theres no doubt about that. If you can live with the issues and afford the replacement / service costs then fine. My issues with Fox are that every time there’s an issue there’s a half arsed fettle to fix i.e. swap seals (SKF / Enduro) as the Fox ones are crap, Fox as a multi million pound company should get it right 1st time! Stantion wear is a big issue and somehow it has become “normalised”, yes oither makes have stantion wear but these tend to be older forks and were probably down to incorrect seal seating, poor lube or incorrect use. Fox are now notorious for new forks suffering stantion wear after a few hour use. I hope that the Kashima coating goes someway to help reduce stantion wear but time will tell.

Phew! Hope this may help!.

10/10 for me 🙂 True to it’s roots.

Don’t worry about it, your an ESTJ!

EST Explained

FWIW, so am I 🙂

What rubbers tyres for loosing virginity? Nobby Nics?

I’m off for my 2nd tour of duty next year :-), have you thought about hiring a RV / Camper?

Your not tied only to Whistler then, and if you take your own bike BC is your oyster!!! 😀

It works out relatively inexpensive compared to local bike hire, hotel, etc, plus the campers are very spacious and comfy with most RV parks having great facilties at arund 15 – 20 bucks a night. There are plenty of free RV road side parks too.

RV Hire is around £350 for the 7 days (4 Berth)

You could do all in easy for £1500 and probably have enough cash left over for some prezzies!

Look here: –

Fox Service

It’s under “service” then “oil Volumes”. Your fork will be open bath (O/B).

Also Suspension oil will be fine, just up the viscocity to around 15 which is the same as fox float fluid.

Bad Karma dude!

Right next to your foot you say? Was this natures way of just letting you know you should be careful and to be more aware? If it was then next time the “creature” WILL bite! 👿

“you can a phone you’ll never need to replace”

it’s called the Nokia 6310i 😀

You can even get ringtone makers!

No it shouldn’t matter as the bolt fixes the top hats to the pivot. The top hats should rotate in the bush, have you re-sized the bushes?

To resize bushes You need a steel pin from the heavy duty kit (Get the longest you can), insert this into the new bushes and fix in a vice (Very firm). Excersize the shock back and forth until the rotation is nice and easy, you’ll find that the top hats fit a lot better and the suspension will feel a lot plusher.

From your pic it looks as if the top hats have been rotating around the bolt, if the bolt is not smooth then it may be the bush is twisting when being replaced. I use the new bush to push the old one out, this ensures all is square.

New Mexico you say……..Forget the rattlers etc, you’d better look out for these guys!

Nope, and don’t intend to either.

No point in ISA’s they are SH!T, buy a block of gold and hide it / bury it somewhere. Gold has gone from $450 / ounce to $2000 / ounce in the last 10 years, better than any ISA.

Thats why I have both an Enduro and Stumpy, the spesh haters will be along soon to spoil the party! 😀

*EDIT*

Someone called them the “Ford” of bikes on here the other day, have you EVER tried a warranty claim off Ford???

I was once in a band called the “Pineapple Ring” 😀

I’ve driven BMW, Merc & Audi, I’m now on my 2nd A6, 2006 SE & 2010 S-Line Avant. Go for the SE if you want a bit more comfort but I do 30 – 40k/yr and have no issue with the S-Line. Tyres can make a difference, Dunlop SP Sport I find are a good.

I find the BMW a better match but I cannot get on with the cabin layout and the I-Drive unit.

Misterlee,

Speak to Colin at Rush, a very knowledgable bloke. Your best bet is to introduce yourself on his forum (See Rush Website), all the local riders use that to arrange rideouts. Sunday mornings tend to be the norm plus they usually arrange an Alps trip in the summer, the odd uplift day is also not out of the question too.

I have the mother of all chest infections, 2nd dose of Cipro something or other. I’ll be off the bike for a month according to the doc 🙁

I raced there for 3 season with NPS (1994 – 1997 open catagory!), you can’t beat the “Kidney Shaker” especially on a hard tail. I still nip up and have a blast now and again but it’s not the same on a full suss. Theres a jump by the castle that used to catch me out, had many a crash there.

Not used the air versions, but I have the coil and they are very very good. I would go coil on the front as the weight difference is minimal compared to rear, but the performance difference is leagues ahead.The only issue is that after a while you will probably want to swap out the rear shock for a CCDB or such. 😀

Sonofapitch,

You can swap the top caps out to give you RL / RLC. The RLC will have no high speed compression though (dial on the bottom of the fork)only low speed. Top Cap Assemblies are about £50 plus vat from MOJO and dead simple to change.

You can only do this on Genuine Fox Forks and not OEM ones as the Top Cap thread pitch is different by 0.5mm.