Jools, they are Boxxer seals i.e. same 35mm stansions. I had mine fitted as part of a service as I complained about stiction, i’m sure they’ll sell you some.

littlegirlbunny, check that the grub screw is clear of dirt. A small pin / needle will clear the allen socket.

Jools, give TFT a ring they did mine. 😉

Done mine a few weeks back, it improves the damping rather than plushness in my opinion.

A more worth while mod though is to swap out the inner seal under the wiper seal for foam rings, this made a massive improvement on initial stiction. Just have to service more regular as a result though.

65mm and on offer at £35 on CRC (Other colours are available)

In my experience and the best results I got with a DHX Air is leave the air can alone until you decide how you want the shock to act, set the shock up as per Fox’s guide –
http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_tech_center/owners_manuals/07/eng/rear_shocks/dhx_air_50.htm

Go for a ride and make adjustements on the fly, where you can, try to make extreme adjustment fist (Rebound, Compression & propoedal) so you can see how differing aspects of the shock affect the handling characteristics of the bike. Then it’s a case of tuning the shock in, which may then require the air can mod.

To be honest though, my Enduro with the HV RP2 is flawless.

Paint roller?

Brings back memories…………..of 3 weeks ago! 😆

Rik,

Mine were suffering stiction terrible, I tried everything (oil weights, oil brands, greases the lot!) In the end I sent em to TFT for a service and he swapped out the main oil seal that sits under the wiper seal for 2 foam rings. Made a massive difference to my fork, I even tried a firm spring as a result (I’m around 90kg’s loaded) but it was too firm.

From what Tim said this is standard on the Boxxer (1 wiper seal and 2 foam rings) which makes the super plush, just need to service them a bit more.

I have had this mod done for a year now and have serviced the about forks 5 times, just had to order some more Flooks Fluid!

I would have a look at this mod as it’s cheap and easy, all you need is 4 x 35mm foam rings for a boxxer.

I put a removable one on my new A6 saloon, best thing I ever done and you can’t see or tell it’s been done. Audi wanted £1200 + VAT (Witter) I had the identical one fitted by an audi reccomended fitter for £500 all in which included a reprogram for the parking sensors.

Bigyinn, an RP2 will be fine and cheaper if you can find one. Don’t know about the 2010 but my 09 with the RP2 is F’kin A!

Thanks for all the useful info all, really appreciated. As most people will say even the best plans change and I fully expect mine too!
I intend to use this trip as a bit of a "Reccy" for the future, bored with the usual euro tat, so not really woried about cramming everything in. I do monster miles with my job so not worried about the driving either and hey i'm sure them views will make up for it.

I have a sneaky feeling I will be going back…….. With my bike next time though.

Nice one, cheers all.

Thanks Backhander, good bit of advice there. How about buying MTB stuff out there? Glasses, shorts, shocks etc, is it cheaper?

Thanks,

Nick

Thanks Backhander, good bit of advice there. How about buying MTB stuff out there? Glasses, shorts, shocks etc, is it cheaper?

Thanks,

Nick

Thanks for the reccomendations guys, all noted. Route plan is

Vancouver to Whistler,
Whistler to Kamloops,
Kamloops to Glacier National Park,
GNP to Banff,
Banff back to Kamloops,
Kamloops to Vancouver.

But it may change when we get there, main events are Red Bull 5000 on Sunday, some biking and Fishing!

The Michael Palin series is strangely adictive 😆

PP if they equalize then there is an issue, fortunately for you I have found this service guide 😀 Looks like it may be simple as an O ring.

AM1 SL Service Guide

I'd stay away from B&Q, Wickes & Homebase etc. Sister in law had one from B&Q wich had missing parts, wrong parts, broken parts!!! nightmare to deal with on after care too. Ikea kitchens are cheap & cheerful and about 1/4 of the cost, I installed my own kitchen (1st one) and it was simple. Ikea have a good free online design package too. Just remember to get the work surface profesionally fitted.

Just a note too, always pressure the PAR 1st and then set the main chamber air! This applies for both options.

From what I remember:-

Basically the PAR chamber controls the bottom out resistance and the mainchamber effects the air spring weight, it's a balance : –

1. Good feeling fork but with Top Out = More pressure in PAR vs Main Chamber

or

2. Linear, sometimes stiff feeling fork = Less Pressure in PAR More in main chamber but no top out (Fork sits in it's travel).

PP, I had a set of these and they were notoriously difficult to set up.

There's loads of info here though:-

AM1 SL

And Here: –

AM1 SL

I have one of these(£245 – 10%): –

Been a good watch too.

Tesco are doing La Lagunilla @ £30 for 6, I bought 12 and can reccomend it. It's a bargain at that price 😀

Quite a random one this but……..

I just built this =>

Was filmed at Rest Bay Porthcawl, it's on the team Ashton website.

Oh go on then.

I have changed a few things since the photo. Sunline V1 stem & bars, RP2 HV rear shock, a new set of XT cranks with X9 gearing.

Have a good trip!

Have a look here: –

Patt Strap

I would look 2nd hand but servicable, there were a set of XT wheels for sale on here for £125. Will probably knock off 1/2lb in physical weight but will feel more like a 1lb, cranks BB & rings will also be about 1/2lb heavier than say XT again you can pick up a decent set for about £60 – £70 2nd hand. If the forks are in good nick you can then sell them for about £180 – £200 and put the leftover cash with the cash from them to get yourself a decent air fork for around £300, you should easily save a 1lb off the pikes.

It'll be a mis aligned or missing bearing that normally sits in a recess within the Mission Control System, it's held in place by a "C" clip. Easy enough to sort out, remove the Mission Control damper and you'll see the "C" clip. Check to see if the bearing is there, if not that'll be your problem.

Have a look here (Page 39): –

Lyrik Manual

Nut & bolt through the hole, put the bolt in a battery drill and run it along a file in a vice. faster the drill the rounder it'll be.

Peter, just ski'd there but loads of the locals (and a few of the Ski Instructors) I spoke to were into MTB and were well up for summer riding and actually preferred it to the Alps etc mainly due to cost but i'm sure the riding is good too.

From what you mentined the views will be pretty spectacular especailly as you will be averaging around 8000 – 10000 ft alt. As such the trails should be pretty long too. I know that the skiing is around 800m of vertical which will be a tad more than your average trail centre down hills with the added benefit of not pedalling backup!

If you do go let me know how you get on.

Cheers,

Nick

I would agree about CS but £ for £ it's pretty good! I pay £10 for 20 meg and I get it (Nearly).

This is at peak time i.e. now!

Have a look here: –

Andorra MTB[/url]

The shock bushes are internally different between the AFR and Fox, as such you will need the required hardware to go with the Fox. These are readily available from Fox / TFT.

TFT Shows you how to sort it here (even uses an Enduro as an example):-

Shock Hardware

The bottom out bumber (rubber washer) is just as a precaution to help prevent heavy bottom out in case you have set up the shock incorrectly, iirc this is set to about 10% of travel.

It could also be that the pressure is too high in the bottom out / compression circuit and or the bottom out adjustment is wound too far in (under the blue knob), this should be set at 70 psi to start with and the blue piggyback dial wound all the way out. Increase the pressure to set the compression damping effect and wind in the the blue bottom out dial to set the required bottom out.

You can test if the shock is good by removing the spring, set the air in the bottom out to 35psi (temp. pressure for the test) and wind out the bottom out adjuster. Fit back to the bike and cyle the suspension by hand, measure the stroke length.

The setup in conjunction with the bottom out stop will have an effect on how good the shock feels.

I've just gone to a Sunline V1 from a Thomson 25.4 x 50mm, can't notice the difference. I still have my 50mm Thommy if you want to buy it for £35 posted.

Andorra is quite cheap, i've been going there for the last 3 years for 2 or 3 time a year. Best Options would be fly to Barcelona and drive up or fly to Toulouse and drive up. Driving is easy and routes / roads are mostly clear. Hotels are reasonable, food and drink is cheap with Ski Passes around 170 Euro for the week.

The Spanish half term holidays are different to the UK so it'll be reasonably quiet there.

Board / Ski hire is around 45 Euro for the week too, which includes boots and poles. Locker hire (enough for 6 people) at the Gondela station is around 10 eurto a day or 50 for the week, most hotels have lockers for free though.

Nope, separate circuits on the coil. The air has common valving though, acording to TFTuned that is 😉

I had the same quandry, going form this: –

To this: –

Initially the climbing difference is like night & day, no bob and climbed like a mountain goat. Weight wise the Spesh came out lighter by about 1/2lb, I swapped out the AFR shock with a HV RP2 and the difference is incredible. The Spesh goes down hill like it should have and is far superior than the Heckler, even with the DHX 5 Coil. However It does not jump as easy probably because of the longer wheel base, but is super stable when pinning it. Knocked around 15 minutes off my lap times at White's Levels in one hit.

The difference in travel was hardly hardly noticable, except the Spesh is more forgiving.

Live in Pompei.