I have a 1991 Squire Hank Marvin signature strat, my first guitar. Have just loaded it up with Texas Specials 😀 (But kept the origionals too!)

5ft 9″

760mm

710mm

I would say 720mm will be fine.

This :-

Or this: –

I know which one my moneys on! 😀

I bought mine from this guy: – VCDS 10.6

Does everything I needed.

I am skinny and have puny arms, but see to be really strong

Surrounded By Zulus, I dare say the other guy would bench press a lot more than you. Don’t get confused by strength and endurance.

Conquerer, I have some good PDF’s that used before. Send me a PM and i’ll let you have them.

Witter removable towbar on my A6 Saloon, used with a 2 bike Thule 9502. When out at the trail everything removes and fits in the boot out of sight, keeps the theiving scumbags at bay especially as you car does not look like a bikers car with racks on etc.

Al, with regards your origional question. It’ll cost about £85 for the turf, £15 for the rotorvator (a days hire) and many trips the amenity centre to get rid of the old turf.

Feb / March is the time to get it sorted, plenty of watering and a bit of feed and your done.

Removable towbars are about £100 – £150 more than fixed.

retractable ones like this Towbar Vid are VERY expensive.

I used these last year to do my lawn: –

Online Turf[/url]

Delivery was quick and they delivered twice what I needed 😯

I had a removable towbard & single electrics fitted to my A6 Saloon for £550 all in including coding for my parking sensors, audi wanted £1200 + vat.

I now use one of these: –

Fits in the boot when out in the bike.

MCM have a look here: – Stoat Info

It may be that if the fish was already dead, a Stoat would then eat it. Herons would eat those sized carp in one, no left overs, no chunks, nothing. This time of year they would also have eaten half of the pond if not more.

As Herons are wading birds, the way to protect your pond is to have deep edges (over 2 feet) with some thing like a rope edge fencing close to the edge.

This gives enough of a deterent as it’s sparse and unatural, ponds with wide, open borders that the Heron can access easily are normally the main targets.

If all else fails take the fish to your aqautic centre, they will let you know stright away if their any good.

I had a search for you as i’m already a member, this seems to be your problem.

Heater issue A4

Looks like an easy fix too.

Your best bet is to find someone with VCDS Diagnostics (I have just ordered mine for my A6 but not cheap, goto rosstech), this will tell you if anything electronic / electrical has failed.
The A4’s heater system is notorious for failing / sticking, this is mainly due to excessive moisture being circulated / dragged in. it’s an easy job to strip out and check the controller, but a much bigger job if the matrix behind the dash is the fault.
If it’s a conmtroller, you can pick them up cheap enough off ebay.

The best Audi / VAG forum i’ve used is here: –

Audi Forum

Choose your model and ask some questions.

Request here for someone who may be close with VCDS, most people on there withh check you car over for the price of a couple of beers.

VCDS

Sorry, don’t have the sizes as my O rings were fine. They should be standard sizes and specs though and will be readily available from the likes of Ebay or alternativly I can give you the contact details of the company I use. I would suggest joining MTBR and PM-ing Nick_M2R.

Guys, if your intersted, I use a local company to supply all my seals & bearings.
As an example of price, a full set of SKF frame bearings for a Giant Anthem (Which is a lot of bearings!) and a full set of SKF wheel bearings for Hope Pro 2 cost £60 delivered, they would normally retail for about £100. Email me if your interested and i’ll send through a link and contact name, LoCo, this company is in Barry so is quite close.

He can even get replacement 6mm bearings for Shimano BB’s from the US, but their not cheap.

Nope, the pressure in the compression / rebound circuit is back pressure from the IFP / boost valve. Which is why they do not reccomend riding the shock with less than 75 psi in the boost valve 😉

Here’s another version.

Version 4

Nick_M2R is the nuts, I have followed all of his mods and they are spot on.

Even if the shock has blown it makes no difference, the origional IFP settings are listed on his mod threads. All you need is a Vernier Caliper / Depth Gauge.

I use a Vacuum pack machine (From my old place of work) modified to allow the shock to be placed inside.

Similar to this (Has a demo vid too).

vac pack

I can confirm it works and works well, I have rebuilt 3 shocks for people this way. It’s best to leave the shock settle over night to allow all of the air bubbles to escape, alternatively as I have access to a vacuum chamber this works far better :D.

This works on the coil version too.

Coil Version

You need to look here my friend.

DHX Air 2007 / 2008

This thread also has loads of stuff about internals of the DHX Air.

Loads of stuff about internals of DHX Air

I was after Oakleys last year, but ended up going for these for biking: –

They come with 3 lenses which is very handy.

Because this nearly killed me on it’s first outing: –

If using it for damping then this will have no affect on the seals, if using it as lower fork / foam ring lube then this will have no affect on the seals. Using different weight oils may affect the ammount of lubrication the stantion gets in the lowers which may assist in early wear. The main thing that can affect the seals is the chemicals within the oil and oil height in the lowers.

Check the fork manufacturers recomendations.

All XT mechs have the same spring, so the shorter the mech cage the lower the lever effect giving better chain tension (Which is why DH bikes tend to run short mechs and roadie casettes).
The shorter cage however puts the chain in closer proximity to the chain stay so there may be more slap in certain gears vs a longer mech. There will also be differnces between makes and models, i.e. LX, XT, XTR, SRAM, Shimano………

My best guess is also that there are not many people who have the skill or nuts to do 35 – 40mph+ down single track, which is why many people remove the outer ring.

Timmys, do you ever use the 22 front 36 rear (what I weould call easy-easy) gear ratio? If you don’t then you should get away with a 24/36 setup, this will be slightly better at shifting due to the closer outer diameters of the sprockets. Also there will be more chain tension for the same reason, chain slap is mostly caused by: –

Type of rear mech
Chain tension (Length of chain)
Front / rear gear ratio

All of which you can alter / modify / fettle.

Have tried the follwing combo’s on my Enduro, 22/36, 22/34, 24/34 and 24/36. I now run the 24/36 x 11/32, this seems to offer the best speed, climbability and shifting performance for me.
You can notice the difference with the different setups so I would experiment if possible. I also run a 36t max bash which helps with clearance.
Any real benefits for a 3 ring setup, probably not other than when the outer has worn you can use it as a bash ring :D.

Took my new build out for it’s first ride around Cwmcarn on Sunday afternoon:D

The day ended on a bit of a sad note though as some one was heli’d out, plenty of peeps videoing etc.

The main diffrence between the two is that smokeless is basically a processed and compressed coal dust. This processing drives off the majority of the methane, sulphur and tar content thus beinf a cleaner product.

My first Cannondale 😀 All 2nd hand bits too!

Jools it’s for the top out spring in the bottom of the stantion. Don’t worry about it, unless you loose the one already there you won’t need it. Did you try the check I mentioned above?

It holds the small top out spring in place in the stantion.

You are looking at the wrong end! When in the fork the black plastic unit does not turn, the whole spring does. what you need to do is ensure that the top uturn assembly is free.
Remove the uturn spring, rebuild the uturn top cap with springs and balls, Soft jaw the bottom shaft in a vice, hold the threaded part of the uturn with your hand wrapped in a rag for purchase and turn the uturn assembly. If it still wont turn then there is something wrong in the uturn assembly, send the spring back if you bought it new. Or just leave it wound out.

This cost less than £500 to build, all 2nd hand parts off various classifieds. And yes you may laugh at a tripple ring Coiler 😳

Lyrik.

Preferably coil.

GRR!

For me I think this should be a sticky –

Paypal Calculator

At least then you’ll have some sort of protection.

And if they dont accept paypal, then no sale. I also check other forums to see if their stuff is for sale there too.

I always ask if people on the side of the track need assistance, and in many cases stop.
Over the last couple of years alone I have handed out: –
10+ quick links
Numerous patches
a tube or 2
Brake pads (I always acrry a couple of worn but usable pads just in case).
Other things I have assisted with are: –
Fixing Rear mechs (sometime by unorthodox methods i.e. a rock!).
Setting up gears.
Set up forks.
Set up rear shox.
The list goes on!

I do this because
a) It’s good Karma
b) I may need help myself one day.
c) I like helping people 😀

If you do go for an Audi diesel make sure you get a 2.7 minimum, the 2.0’s are rubbish (on my 3rd and still have not learnt).

Just to add, they come in at about 1900g total depending on what spokes you have. Which is about right as they sit in between the DT 1750 & DT 2350.

You could go for the 1750’s but the hubs are not as strong (DT 340’s).

5.1 on DT 440FR, that’s what i’ve been using for 3 years. Faultless.

I use Wilkinson’s (Wilko) window cleaner in the spray applicator oh, and a brush from a dust pan and brush set. Works a treat! 😀

Towel down & relube, all is well. (Ooo matron!) 😉

Are both rounded? If not the cap may come off with 1 grub screw backed out all the way, alternativly you could try an imperial allen key.