@nickjb – That was what I was suggesting really, keep on using an existing socket and temporary extension cable for occasional use like he is doing now. RCD protected and would work if the shed is not miles away from the house.

Touching the consumer units looks to add complications, how to isolate the supply, mains fuses and adding in new components if there is space for a dedicated RCD. I can see how the “proper way” is better but a lot more skilled to do.

Sure your local sparky would be happy for you to dig the trench though! 😂

@tjagain – Good point on the shed distance.

Not sure on the middle ground though, if you are going to dig a trench or have overhead armoured cable from the house supply then why not pay an electrician and get them to certify it?

Unless it’s super temporary or within the regs, then it still would need undoing when he looks to sell/rent out in the future.

@bensongd – Also not an electrician.

I would question if it’s worth adding double sockets if you are still using an extension lead from the house and not going for the full RCD protected armoured cable from your supply in a trench route? Need to think about the max rating for the extension lead especially if it’s long/partially wound.

I recently added two of these 3ft LED battens in my shed, now almost brighter than outside at 30watts and the colour of the light is great. It was simpler to use a 1.5mm2 flexible extension cable, 2-1 junction box, boot lace ferrules and end in a three pin plug with a 3amp fuse. Just like wiring up a lamp.

IP rated fittings need either round cables or special grommets for flat cables, or they are no longer IP rated.

The dust extractor I was recommended on here made completing the replacement African Blackwood coffee machine flow control paddle a much more pleasant experience! 😂

Finished with a Stanley blade scraper and Danish oil. Had to JB weld the tapered cone insert into the handle as you can’t buy spare inserts for the spline size. Old SKs stainless mudguard stay was just right to pin it with.

Coffee Compass Mystery 13 – now at £14.50 a kilo, normally darker than average by third wave standards and good for espresso/traditional filter.

https://www.coffeecompass.co.uk/products/mystery-coffee-mark-13-1kg

Pretty much the only “proper roaster” that does medium dark to mahogany roasts with good quality beans. Don’t try the Ethiopian Wild Highland, I still have nightmares about trying it when very hungover…

Black Cat Coffee chocolate point – lovely and a cheeky pinch of robusta – well worth a punt. Their Twilight blend is meant to be good as well.

https://www.blackcatcoffee.co.uk/products/chocolate-point-blend

Lucky you, should outlast the shed if you do it well! 👍

Check the angle first though as they likely need a decent pitch, even if you use a good underlay.

From Google – Double Roman – 25° Smooth (75mm headlap) 30° Granular (75mm headlap) 22.5° Smooth (100mm headlap)

That was what my friend suggested for mine initially, but it’s not strong enough and only ~14 degrees.

@csb – Did a rough calc of over 350kgs for a 8’x10’ apex shed at about 9m2 of area and a 40kgm2 roof tile.

Likely need to reinforce the roof, walls and joints unless it is properly sturdy as is.

@tarquin – Also looking at getting the roof replaced on my shed, which is smaller and not as heavy duty as yours.

Have you seen the metal roofing sheets you can get, tile effect ones look pretty good? Considering putting one over some extra insulation, with a breather membrane and air gap, as the big sheets should be pretty robust and the green isn’t too objectionable.

https://www.britmet.co.uk/pantile2000.asp

@slowol – Thanks, that is almost exactly what I was asking! Will have a gander at the other thread 👍

@oceanskipper – Old tip from The Sheldon era was to use a set of old dropouts with the wheel out of the frame but clamped to ensure the tiny bit of play gently disappears.

With your through axle, could you try similar with in terms of spacing?

@jam-bo Got one of these earlier in the year, proved so good for shelves and pictures I bought one for a mate as a house warming present. About £55 on eBay, I would pay the extra and get a Bosch one as it comes with a clamp on holder and the levelling works very nicely.

Bosch Quigo III Self Leveling Cross Line Laser Level & Multi Clamp, 0609663500

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/392409386783

@bigblackshed – Glad you found a refurbisher, it is a bit of a design flaw not being user service or because of the manufacturing process and the way the pin contacts a sharp edge not a larger interface to stop.

Top tip is to only tighten “just enough”, as overtime they all start dripping eventually. Just need to be careful about the retaining nut being on properly tight, as overtime it could unscrew and vent steam onto your hand if it works loose with the valve opening/closing.

@johndoh – Best way to remove a stuck aluminium dispersion block on a classic is to remove the two bigger hex screws and then use a longer m5? bolt in the center to screw hole in and push against the brass group head. Uses the same screw hole which attaches the metal shower screen you removed already.

This should remove all but the most stuck on ones, no need for drifts or levering things around, as it risks damaging the machine.

Nuclear option is strip down, take out the group and remove the boiler and piping. Then sit the brass group and dispersion block in a tub of descaled.

@kayak23 – Might be selective wallet amnesia! I am occasionally afflicted with the same condition… 😉

That looks just the job if you have a workshop and are also working as a fitter in people’s houses where it will only see dry use.

Ordered a Fein Dustex 25l in the end with floor kit from Axminster, have just enough space by my work bench with a bit of rearranging and flat top is handy.

The new style Titan ones don’t have a power take-off unless you go for the big 30l models.

Thanks for all your helpful suggestions.

I did consider that, but it’s the same size as the Titan ones. My working space is a 10×8 shed which means it’s pretty packed already.

Long story but I had to promise to let my wife choose the next house one after the Henry breaks irreparably (going on strong at 5 years and counting 😉), but that will end up being an expensive Dyson upright thing which actually isn’t suited to how our house is laid out.

I also do most of the hoovering so may have a vested interest in keeping the Henry around as long as possible…

Checked out the links that people kindly provided. Looks the Titans/Kercher are great but are going to be too big to easily stash away in a cupboard or under my bench.

The reviews for the portable Bosh one or Shappach aren’t that great in terms of suction or the bags.

Looks like two are in the running, either a mini 8l Numatic + adapters from Axminster or a proper dust extractor. Numatic hose looks more robust and it smaller but the cardboard openings on the v-tuff might not like being stored in a shed.

Any other options to consider?

https://www.powertoolworld.co.uk/v-tuf-15l-m-class-800w-mini-dust-extractor-inc-accessories

https://www.axminstertools.com/numatic-psp-180-11-vacuum-cleaner-508317

Thanks for the replies, will have a look at them in a bit more detail especially the Aldi one.

The bigger proper shop ones would be amazing if I had the space, my wife isn’t the fan of our Henry vac so couldn’t get away with adding another.

This was along the lines of more why I hand in mind, might even be able to get away with just having a dry function.

I would choose the Carrera if the sizing was right. Most European touring bikes don’t use drops, but they have handlebars with a wider variety of hand positions.

Maybe grab a set of Moloko bars or similar, with a pair of Ergon grips that have stubby bar ends built in?

https://www.bikemonger.co.uk/surly-moloko-bar-12444-p.asp?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5rXartGi7gIVuYFQBh0KHwWkEAQYAyABEgIsmPD_BwE

Depending upon how much you lug about, might be worth considering a low rider front rack like a Tara to balance out the weight for better handling? Handy you have mid fork eyelets.

@geomickb – Avoid shiny chrome or knurled handle kettlebells at all costs, they are truly the work of the devil.

Slick chrome means you launch the kettlebells out of your hand too easily and the knurling is terrific at giving horrifically blistered hands…

These are normally decent kit, dispatching from the 25th of Jan. A 16kg as a starter isn’t bad if you have done weights before.

https://bulldoggear.com/products/bulldog-gear-box-kettlebell-1?variant=23886440645

@butcher – Loads of good advice from really experienced folks. You can also never have enough clamps. Can I ask how much storage space you have?

A half sheet of ply wood with some stud work timber for bracing makes a great power tool/big job portable table if you get some foldaway metal saw horses. Ideally you want three if cutting large pieces, I like these since they store so well.

https://www.ffx.co.uk/product/Get/Toughbuilt-Tou-C700-2-5055945212105-Saw-Horse-Adjustable-Jobsite-Trestle-Table-Twin-Pack

To be honest unless you are spending big money on brand new hand tools (i.e. Veritas and top end Axminster) you still end up doing a whole bunch of finishing to get them up to scratch. Plus you will need to know how to maintain them eventually.

Seems like mid priced new gives you OK steel but terrible QC. Stuff I had to do is along the lines of re-shaping hammer claws/nail vs to be straight/even, or having to lap the base and file the mouth on a new Stanley bullnose plane (it was £50 😬 and I couldn’t find a nice one on eBay).

@slackboy – I had similar issues getting full mud guards on the new old stock Raleigh mtb I built into a commuter for my wife that had to have full SKS chromoplastics.

1-Top fixing point – p-clip on one of the horizontal rack cross pieces, small piece of steel strapping bolted to the p-clip and riveted to the mudguard

2-Lower fixing point – taped up the frame and used a bunch of zip ties through the lower fixing hole in the mudguard. Not ideal but if you use a few it is pretty solid.

Other option though if there are already holes in the wishbone caps is to drill them out and use a steel/aluminium rivnut (depending upon frame) for bolt and spacer sleeve or piece of angle. Better option if you are not too attached to the frame in case it goes awry.

Bit of a faff but they will be rock solid if you take a bit of time on it.

@luket – James Hoffman did a cheap hand grinder review. Only really worth it for pour over.

The Made by Knock Aergrind would have won hands down if entered in the cheaper ones (mentioned in the ultimate showdown), it is one of the cheapest options for espresso now but with VAT is about £120 new, normally go for ~£85 second hand in good nick.

Still takes 4-5 minutes minutes to grind 18g, though it does grind both finely and evenly for it size.

@prettygreenparrot – I do like the Mazzers, built like tanks and pretty much immortal in home environment. With COVID there are quite a few on eBay now from small cafes, a bit of a shame really but there are some bargains…

Normally go for a mix of bits she asks for or consumables like gin/Lush/chocs.

Apart from that maybe practical but still nice looking stuff that might be more expensive than she would normally get? Running trainers that are actually suitable for exercise and in her real size, or a colourful polka dot bike basket that can be used as a shoulder bag were recent examples for me.

If you don’t have them already, how about a Boston shaker and cocktail making book, with some ingredients? Then you get to try them together and have a bit of fun making them.

Glad you went for a nice machine. 👍

If it hasn’t been obvious by now, I like coffee quite a lot and am a bit geeky about it… 🙄

The best value new one I’ve seen is the Eureka Crono, 50mm flat burrs really well made and can be timer/on demand.

https://coff-hey.com/products/new-eureka-mignon-crono-coffee-grinder-matt-black?_pos=2&_psq=crono&_ss=e&_v=1.0

Sette – avoid, plastic gears and reliability issues
Sage – small conical, pricey when new and can be a bit inconsistent

For hand grinders you want bigger burrs if using for espresso, otherwise spending 5-7 minutes grinding each shot is a bit masochistic and your other half might not appreciate the extra faff…

I’ve got a Jx-pro for travel, works nicely for brew and grinds 18g for espresso in 30s. ~£160 direct with taxes.
https://1zpresso.coffee/product/jxpro/

UK made – but need to watch the site for new ones
https://www.madebyknock.com/store/p48/feld47travel.html

@dorset_knob – Nice bunch and have loads of Gaggia spares – https://www.theespressoshop.co.uk/

This for the older ones you find second hand when they were better quality. More modern versions of say a “Coffee Deluxe” are a bit rubbish, plasticky and not to the same standard.

A refurbed old style Classic from BigJohn would be great. You need to sort out the water/descaling though or it will still break on you.

– Classic pre – 2015 – more metal components and a 3 way solenoid valve – normally stainless case

– Gaggia baby – same internals as a classic in a plastic case

– Coffee Deluxe – Similar to a classic but no solenoid, just a spring valve – painted steel case and 3 rocker switches are horizontal not vertical.

@bikerevivesheffield – It’s like this forum but for coffee machines. Classifieds section is good but you need ~10 posts to play.

https://coffeeforums.co.uk/

Second hand classics do come up, a few of the people refurb and mod-eBay bargain pre—Phillips Gaggias for fun so don’t have a big markup. They go quick though😉

If you are getting fancy beans on a regular basis I would recommend you spend a bit more on the machine then as you will notice a difference. Milk steaming is going to improve a lot as well.

The Sage DB/Bambino or Leit Anna will last years if you maintain them, biggest killer is hard water on espresso machines. If you are in a hard water area where your kettle scales, then look at a filter jug/bottled water and a descale as needed/min six months makes sense.

It’s a bit like bikes, once you hit a certain price point you get diminishing returns but until then you get really big jumps.

@bikerevivesheffield – Are you going to be using pressurised baskets (ones with the little single pin hole at the bottom) or the regular ones which need a finer grind?

If you are looking to keep your current grinder then the entry level Lelit ones would be better if you can stump up another £150 as it would be a major difference in performance to <£200 models. You can buy 57mm pressurised Lelit baskets and BB have good customer service. https://www.bellabarista.co.uk/lelit-anna-pl41em.html

The Sage range are also good value for money but are a bit hard to get hold of spare parts. James Hoffman did a review of both super cheap and more expensive ones that might give you more information.

@pjay – Looks like you are quite far down the smart trainer route, which is handy in terms of integration etc.

Someone earlier mentioned the Concept2 BikeErg, I recently got one to keep out for my wife to use instead of my old turbo. It’s only 26kg and packs down quite nicely for moving but is super easy to adjust between users with no set up faff. Works with Zwift/Sufferfest apps etc for data pretty nicely.

Another option to consider if your current choices are hard to get.

Put it together tonight, whilst the main body is made of aluminium all the load bearing fasteners fit into these fancy steel rivnuts with a hex section pressed flush into the frame. The horizontal feet pieces are steel as well.

Will give it a test ride tomorrow once I’ve popped some SPDs on it, looks decent quality but the original pedals are shockingly bad!

@tonyplym – That’s fine, I bought mine from Newitts rather than direct. A bit pricier (£230 ish) though and was showing a 3 week wait, but they managed to ship it in 2 weeks instead. Also I have had decent customer support from them in the past so could attempt to justify it 🙈

From a chat on the phone they got a few in this week, it’s showing as out of stock now on their website unfortunately. Maybe give them a call to see if they have a spare one or restock lead time?

Thanks for the suggestions, does seem sensible in terms of avoiding stuck screws and maybe a lower strength one is all that would be needed in this case.

I dropped Concept2 an email as well, just in case they had any feedback.

It’s a bit funny, with lockdown 1.0 and 2.0 I think my average total walking daily steps count might actually be less than the National average…

But that is balanced by going running for 10k+ almost everyday and lining up my first marathon before Christmas. 😅

I don’t have kids and my job can be done remotely, I could well believe shift work, two hour each way commutes and caring responsibilities would really impact some people.

@simondbarnes – Have Shimano messed about again with their pull ratios on Tiagra recently for the 4700 line to not work with lower groups?

I’m quite a few years out of date, but I’ve had 9-speed road work with 10-speed road 9-speed mtb rear derailleur. I really liked it when road/mtb were fully interchangeable, having to go “full group or nothing” seems like a backward step for the consumer 🤷‍♂️

Erm, he might be right about the frame and a good engineer but is he someone I would want to promote or give money to?

Not really based on why was reported by a female journalist.

https://ridewriterepeat.com/2020/06/05/six-bloopers-of-being-a-woman-in-the-cycling-industry/

@scc999 – Fair point, first time I used one and it had two drill holes, so just assumed it was meant to be in pairs 🙄

Yeah, can’t justify a biscuit jointer for what I would use. I found dowels very hard to line up previously so likely will stick to the pocket holes really as they are so discrete.

Cheers guys, it was fun to try something new given everything has been pretty much the same recently…

I probably went a bit OTT with the pocket hole jig in hindsight 🤔 It was so quick though, with the joints glued it’s absolutely solid.

Open to suggestions though in terms of other approaches? My wife has asked me to make another one for her study, so can have second attempt.