so i’ll need 2 wraps of tape, valves, gunk and possibly a ghetto inflation device?

the rims are hookless is that gonna make it difficult?

will 21mm stans tape be okay for my 22mm internal width rims?

thanks, rims are these ones:

http://www.light-bicycle.com/XC-650B-mountain-bike-hookless-27mm-wide-cross-country-rim-tubeless-compatible.html

well whilst we’re talking about them is £300 the best price I’ll find at the mo? seems okay but I do love a bargain…

is this a problem with an old batch or are newer ones affected as well?

just about to buy some..

some of the nicest sketches I’v seen have been technical sketches from engineers.. they need to be able to express themselves visually too.

by the way none of this is about making pretty pictures. It’s about communicating and expressing ideas visually. This often means using a pen or a pencil and having a bit of training in art will help.

if your architectural students are so hopeless why does your company hire them?

course requirements aside for a moment, for an actual career in architecture I can’t think of a course that would have been more useful than art… i’m an architect and didn’t study art btw..

Mikey74, we spend 3 years in practise as well as 5 years in study. By the time we’re allowed to call ourselves architects we have a pretty good idea of how buildings go together.

I’m surprised at the conflicting advice here especially from the architectural educators among us. I would advise to definiteley take art, it will be incredibly useful in an architectural career, will help establish a good portfolio and is probably the only subject at that level that will be relevant. An essay based subject is a good idea to go along side it. Maths not so much.

I use Compass Switchback passes and Bruce Gordon rock n roads… of the two I prefer the compass switchbacks but the rock n roads may have the edge on paths & tracks.

sorry to bump an old one but that’s a cracking paint job, any chance of the RAL codes for the grey and the pink?

44/28 double with 12-30 cassette for me. Works nice.

iv never had them price match but have had excellent experiences with rose bikes in the past, always cheap too.

Rob English does some nice work.. but i reckon he’d be glad to consign that one to the ‘experimental’ stage in his career.

” I understand that on the internet, you will always get those who think they know better, and need to express their egos a bit.”

🙂

EDIT. too slow I see!

it’s a custom frame, why not just mount the rack further up the seat stays?

anyway, you should drop the ‘tude. I’m out too.

I think that’s quite smart.

how do the hydro trp’s compare to the shimano’s?

well, shows you how much I know, thanks!

can’t be arsed to go through cherry picking quotes but that’s not how it sounded, hence the replies.

good luck on the search though!

I wish there was a hydro disc option that didn’t include shifters, I like down tube shifters so the only option is cables… isn’t it?

the thing is, you likely have a very long list of ‘requirements’ but no idea how to turn this into something good. A good builder will take these requirements, understand which compromises to make and use their skill/ experience to create something brilliant.

Or you trust your own ability and tell them exactly what you want.. but unless your a frame designer what’s the point in that? they’re almost definitely better at it than you are.

You’ll get the best outcome if you have a clear idea of what you want and then trust the builder to turn those ideas into something good.

Its the same with architecture ( my own field) let the designer do his/her own job, otherwise just hire a far eastern pipe welder. Just don’t blame them if it’s not all that you’d hoped for 🙂

btw, I’m only commenting as I have just been through a similar situation myself and my builder was brilliant.

I don’t think most of the good UK builders are struggling for business and to be honest I should think most view them selves as more than pipe welders which seems to be really what you’re after. The reason you’re paying that much money is because they know a thing or two about frame building… not just because they’re a bit handy with a welding torch.

no rivets on the Honjos but they’re expensive and fitting them can be difficult. Velo Orange do a cheaper but similar version (not quite as nice) mine are 650b and 62mm wide but they’re available in 700c and 26″ versions in various widths.

have a look at Honjos from Compass cycles. mine are brilliant.

I’m running a SONdelux on my rando build, also using the connecterless SL set up where the are no fittings needed, the dropout itself is the connector with the wires concealed within the fork blade. This will connect to an edelux 2 headlight and something at the rear too.

if it’s not too cheeky I happen to have a SONdelux for sale here:

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/son-dyno-hub-xt-29er700c-wheel-set#post-7120437

and very nice it is too.

For what it’s worth OP, given your requirements I think you’d get a better bike built in the UK if you went with steel. Good luck with the hunt (check out Robin Mather).

^ what’s the point of a tapered head tube?

good to know!

I actually mailed Shand about it on Friday night wondering if they’d adjust the fork trail a bit for me + a few other little mods. Not sure if they’ll be up for it or not.

With the standard geo I think rear carry will be better, I’d think too much extra weight on the front might make the steering feel a bit wallowy (at least in theory).

I’m actually thinking about getting a stoater at the moment but one of the things holding me back is the high trail geometry which I don’t think will respond well to front loading/porteur rack.. which is my preffered method for carting my stuff about.

love mine too, it’s my most versatile frame, but the size medium is too small for me so will probably let it go at some point.

ps the log pile is considerably larger since those pics were taken.

hey thanks, looks like just what i’m after

anyone know anything about the H+Son Todestrieb? cant find out much about them

i would be looking to run 2″ wide tyres but still.. praps a bit over specified for the Peregrine

would a 35mm rim be a bit daft on a Peregrine? i’v seen the velocity P35 rim.. disk specific and silver but 35mm wide

i found the semis at acivesport.co.uk but they were £90 each.. too much. and they have a pretty bad rep too. I forgot to mention silver and disc specific is sort of important.

someone take along a 58cm crosscheck… pleeeease.