Roberts

Sean Kelly

My father – of similar stock to Kelly but rubbish on a bike (good at digging holes though :-))

Castelli Risvolto Winter Cycling Cap at here http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=X0559 and other places. Just bought one, warm looks good and Caestelli is good kit but a little more unusual than Assos and Rapha

cynic-al – Member

Deliberately ‘hanging onto’ money paid in error is a criminal offence under the provisions of the Theft Act 1968.

Interesting…surely that would mean that those cases where bak transfers are made in error to the wrong party are capable of being sorted promptly? (i.e. coppers get payee’s details under that Act – which must trump data protection?)

slightly o.t In theory yes, but in my limited experience in these matters what happens is that the recipient of the funds knowing they aren’t due them goes out and spend’s it all as quickly as possibe. This is arguably an intention to deprive the righful owner and to treat the money as his own and to dispose of regardless of the other’s rights giving an offence of theft. If it’s just lying in your account you can easily argue there is no intention to permannetly deprive you haven’t used the money as your own and therfore no theft offence has been commited. Hope that makes some sense

This may / may not be of some interest;

http://www.thinkuknow.co.uk/Parents/

just seen the other post on this DOH!!

pleaase ignore

crazy-legs – Member

(eg on my other road bike i use 9s ergo, shimano mech and 8s cassette whch works ok)

Why?

I ran Campag 10 shifters with an 8 speed dura ace rear mech – why? – because Campag shifters were about £40 and the cheapest shimano STI’s at the time were about £120.

I’d normally go for a 52/54cm frame, but am I right in thinking that for TT/Triathlon a smaller frame is better?

You need to be sure that the top tube length is sufficient so that you won’t be cramped, also a realy low frontal position is not much use if it is too low for you to be 1) comfortable 2) mechanically efficient. The front end of my tt bike is not massively low compared tomy road bikes but aero and I can time trial for 25 miles without having to get of the tri bars or being too uncomfortable to pedal.
Don’t forget possible duty, vat and freight you may get stung for.

TBH that looks like a converted road bike rather than a tt bike there is a massive gap between the seat post and the rear wheel. If I’m being brutal (imho) it looks a bit of a dog, old gear shifters and bars, looks like a quill stem which will affect changing front end hieght and length

If you need a cheapo tt bike try timetrial forum especially in the off season or the Ribble cheapo alloy tt frame.

It’s not illegal for a cyclist to filter to the front of a queue of traffic at a crossing the relevant regulations state it’s illegal for a motor vehicle to do this.

Try the MIB I belive they run some form of hit and run compensation scheme;

http://www.mib.org.uk/NR/rdonlyres/085DE28C-9F25-4C0C-AE09-500245D5D547/0/MIB_A5_Claim_Guide_Booklet.pdf

May be able to get some of your costs back

I would use such a service if I was visiting an area I didn’t know that well. But I suspect it is quite a niche service. Living down south I have no idea what the trails and riding in the peak district is like, where to stay or if it is worth going to over somewhere like Afan so I suspect a good detailed web site would help and may presuade me to take a trip up there in the first place. I’ve used guides before because I didn’t want to travel miles to an area I don’t know and not find the good trails.

On my last turbo the instructions were get the roller touching the rear tyre and the three full turns from there, which gave a bit of tyre squash

As mentioned coffins are heavy and uncomfortable to carry. Last time I did it the guy (the deceased’s brother) in the middle left was so short he wasn’t actually taking any weight at all which gave rise to a few jokes to lighten the experience. I was told by a gravedigger at a previous do that if you are taking it to the graveside and lowering it do not wrap the rope around your hand as you lwer it to get a better grip or there’s a good chance of following the coffin in.

http://www.gbcycles.co.uk/eshop.asp?wci=product&wce=PUSP06ATR01

Specialized Air Tool Road. Not a mini pump but does the job. The last four club runs I’ve been on have seen people faffing about in the rain with various mini pumps before having to get a proper pump to do the job. This one also has patches and a tyre boot in the handle.

I get knee pain occaisonaly on the turbo, tends to be if I don’t do a good warm up in a low gear before starting the efforts.

Thanks for the advice, I’d thought Ham Hill might be an option. Mr Jackass thanks for that I’ll have to see how much escape time I can wangle.

My road bike has been depressingly reliable too.

Where’s the incentive to ‘upgrade’ when the bloody thing just keeps working for mile after mile.

It’s still easy to spunk cash upgrading road kit;

end of 2008 – 2010 spend

Another Road bike to try tt’ing on
Tri bars for tt’ing on road bike
Planet X 80/101 wheels for tt’ing on road bike
wheel bags for new wheels
skinsuit for tt’ing
pointy helmet for tt’ing
Time trial frame
groupset, bars, etc for time trial frame – can’t use the kit on the afore mentioned road bike as that’s now my training bike
better quality carbon tri bars to take the bar end gear levers
aero bottle and cage for tt frame
new front wheel as deep Planet x a bit twitchy in cross wind.
rear disc wheel
spare cassette for disc wheel
Club skinsuit
Wheel covers for 101 rear wheel to use it as a spare disc wheel as it is not being used much now
Chuck in various race tyres and tubs, carbon brake pads, etc etc

Next year – new tt frame, better aero helmet

+1 for ironkeys, very high level of protection against technical and physical attack

Don’t know why but I have never rated the Park blue book, I think mine is dumped in the back of the shed now

Not got the ts2 but the cheaper park stand so may not be of any use;

1) is the wheel axle sitting correctly in the cups

2) is the stand put together tightly, on my stand one side moved slightly when the qr was done up until I gave all the bolts a good tighten up

ease of sourcing spares for repair…it becomes difficult to justify buying ‘factory’ wheels in my opinion

+1 Over the last couple of years I have had spokes break on factory built road wheels (Mavic and Shimano) both times because we were on holiday in rural Ireland no spare spokes have been available localy and the wheels have been unusable. Because of this I am gradualy relegating my factory wheels to commuters and training bike and replacing them with hand built jobs.

ok, what road rims for a 75kg streak of p155 who doesn’t muller his stuff?

something light, strong, and cheap.

and the moon on a stick please.

Tiagra hubs (about £38 the pair) dt swiss 520 rims (c£75) Sapim race spokes (c£30) and a spoke key for c£5 and make them yourself. Doing it yourself gives you the option of picking up cheap bits if youshop around (£12 for the Tigara front hub) and choosing rims which match your needs / desires

I have a few sets of 32h open pros on various shimano hubs (105 up) built by Harry Rowland (http://www.harryrowland.co.uk/ top quality builder used by Roberts on their hand builds)and they are excellent, strong but light. Put a decent tyre on them – Vittoria Open Corsa Evo CX, if you’re keeping them for best and they are all you need. I’ve just built some dt swiss 520’s as an alternative to open pro’s which feel quite stiff but not had them long enoughtto realy judge them yet.

Thanks for all the replies I think I’ll give a drop in gearing a go and see how I get on.

Saccade – no goat hunting yet but I tend to run low gears on all my bikes – 66″ fixed on my Langster commuter. The Inbred is a gash “leave at work” bike which is only used for Surrey Hills stuff with workmates and not any great distance work. I was using bottom gear a lot the other night so thought a drop in ratios might be a good idea – I’ve never been in the position where a realy high gear has been required on this bike so am not bothered about loosing a bit at the top end of the range. Am on 34/20 at the moment and also on the larger size.

Or the third approach fit the spokes one flange at a time with the hub and rim lying flat on a table. Do all the spokes that come from the inside of the hub first then those that come from the outside and then turn the wheel over and do the other flange. This method leaves both hands free to lace spokes

Try here;

http://www.thesilvervaults.com/

Geofrey Butlers in Croydon have some planet x in stock – they also stock Bianchi (very good bike shop!), might be worth a ring. Personaly I have bought bikes from Ribble mail order no problems whatsoever, you already have a road bike so will know what size fits you so should be easy enough

No. Had no interest in University at the time and do not regret it at all. In some respects the abscence of a degree may be a hinderence – some jobs I have looked at recently, with large International bodies require a degree as a a minimum

“Munqe-chick – Member

I think people have a misconception of Uni and think you have to be intelligent…”

I’ve never thought that, in fact nowadays the vast majority of newer people in my work area are now graduates and a large amount appear to be thick as mince / lacking in common sense.

Got a Joe Blow – needs stripping every three months or so pumps but gague doesn’t work – bit of a pain but works well when it works.

sks rennonkompressor got one of those but it came with a bizzarre valve attachment which was cut off and replaced with a crack pipe, good pump if it comes witha regular end.

http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/best-cheap-light-for-helmet-mounting

A decent spoke key makes it easier, got mine and spokes etc from Spa cycles,Parker and Chain Reaction for hubs and rims;

These may be of use;

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/spocalc.htm

http://www.dtswiss.com/SpokesCalc/Welcome.aspx?language=en

I tend to get the measuements from the rinard spreadsheet then use the dt swiss site for calculations – but I have only done road wheels so far.

Not downloaded the previously mentioned book but have used the instructions here;

http://www.bikewebsite.com/build.htm

and found them easy to follow.

Its not as much a mystery /art as people think and is strangely fun and I am by nature clumsy and mechanicaly unsubtle :lol:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110427206085&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSA:GB:1123

got one zip tied to my lid very very bright, very cheap.

Bought one of these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110427206085 following a reccomendation here. Ziptied to a £4 stopwatch holder for easy removal from the handlebars. It has been great on flashing mode for city commuting and a friend borrowed it and used it as his only light out on the Surrey Hills on Tuesday night . Good for the money.

Provided it fit’s no major reason, the rrp seems quite high when compared to Ribble alloy road bikes, not sure what level the sram groupset is compared to shimano or campag but pressume the frame quality is going to be very similar.

If it were me and I was going to race later I would buy a road bike without an “upright” set up. If you get the right size, don’t cut the steering tube right down and, if needs be, flick the stem over it should be comfortable, fine for club runs, commuting, with tri bars tt’s till you get the bug for them and if you decide to road racing. If you do get a road bike join a club, really helps if you plan to race.

For a number of years I was on a surveillance / investigation team focused on major(international drug traffickers etc)criminals. Learnt lots, met intersting people on both sides of the fence, traveled lots had a good time at the same time felt it was vaguely worthwile. Probably the nearest to a vocation I ever had.

The house we have in Ireland now has the boiler outside, as mentioned it comes in a weatherproof metal surround and is just outside the back door. I thought it a bit odd at first too but we've had no problems with ours and it does free up a lot of space.

The Hangover
36
La Balance

The latter two are excellent French crime films, La Balance is quite old now (1982)so may be difficult to get

Recently went down this route for much the same reason, bought a Stihl with a 12" bar from a reputable shop and bought a Portek log master stand http://www.portek.co.uk/logmaster.html
This clamps the chainsaw in place and makes cutting logs a doddle, so much so that a proffesional tree feller we used said he was going to get one to make his job easier. Mrs k was against me getting a chainsaw – something about clumsiness, must be a mountain biker thing, but she was very taken with this kit and wasv soon sawing logs herself. Get a good visor and ear defenders.

Campy. It's Campag or Campagnolo, probably not a mountain bike issue since the eighties.