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Viewing 40 posts - 921 through 960 (of 3,907 total)
  • Save £178+ on Your Food Shopping: Singletrack Discount Of The Week
  • Kahurangi
    Full Member

    parlaere inglese por favore

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    I’ve contacted them a couple of times, one time chancing my arm for a replacement buckle that I trapped in the car door for example, and they (or Jungle, the importers) have always sorted me out. They’ve earned my respect and while I might not be a brand loyalist, I’m very likely to give them my custom in future.

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    IME some tyres are more fickle than others. My WTB Vigilantes has very narrow sweet spot. Too high and they don’t grip & bounce around. Too low and they fold in cornering. This sweet spot was about 0.5 psi.

    Other tyres are more forgiving, but I still notice 2 psi difference out of about 22.

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    Hang on, I’m going to start a new thread about
    Has this forum become a repetitive cycle of endlessly repeating lazy troops?

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    Yeah I’m running Minion DHR 2.4 on a 25 mm internal rear (Stans Arch mk3) and it’s great. Run as low as 21 psi and no issues with rolling, bit it is on the rear and I’m < 75 kg.

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    I used to get fairly bad skin on my hands. A combination of greasy mucky hands being scrubbed clean after bike maintenance, muddy rides, long cold and wet commutes through the winter plus two showers on commuting days left my hands pretty dry and poorly.

    Maybe these office lasses have an equally hard time. Give them a break. It’s nice to have nice hands.

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    Do you have a mudguard within the arch?

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    there was a big thread a while back about routes around Verbier, see if you can find it.

    found it

    https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/anyone-ridden-verbier-enduro-trails-in-switzerland/

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    I assume it’s easily done if one is posting from a mobile device – where the empjis are built in to the keyboard functionality.

    If posting from a PC etc., you might be able to type some uniconde shortcut to insert them, or perhaps wait until someone develops an empji keyboard with extendable panels to insert your cute froggy faces and lewd aubergines.

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    But the key thing with an Aeropress is using a fine grind, especially if you are making just one cup.  Lavazza ground stuff that comes in vacuum packed brick is ground quite finely.

    We have also settled on Lavazza – having an espresso grind is key and we  are liking what we get out of the Lavazza packets.

    Make sure it’s a fine/espresso grind

    In case you missed it the first, second and third time around ;-)

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    Does anyone else kind of really want to lick it?

    It like a forbidden gobstopper

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    The HR2 shoulder knobs aren’t as substantial as the Minion – they get torn off.

    The Aggressor is nearly there, but is much more rounded.

    Anyway, what’s your moon-on-a-stick bike component?

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    I borrowed one for a month in NZ. The owner had no problems with mud (they ride in winter too there, though it’s a little shorter and involves more skiing).

    It climbed more efficiently than my Pivot, no better downhill though.

    They’re very light for the intent and the one I rode was suffering a little for it. There was a soft spot on the rear triangle where it hit a rock and the front triangle had a crack in it. It had suffered a few crashes though, so that’s not exactly very hard data. They did beef up the rear triangles anyway though!

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    molgrips – in general, bigger bore pumps (and longer strokes) are a benefit for shifting air quickly – not necessarily efficiently. Getting a high throughput for a short burst can be important when re-inflating tubeless tyres.

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    Thanks all, in typical STW fashion, you’ve been most helpful. A glass splash back may well be within affordability and there are good alternatives out there :thumbsup:

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    I suspect it going to be much more economic to do an rectangular panel behind the hob (so 800 x 500 ish) and upstand all the rest of the way.

    We’re also looking in to other materials, like some coloured Aluminium resin stuff (not exactly sure what it is…), if anyone has experience with that.

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    p..s is there a way to mod edit the title of a PSA to state “sold out” in it? such as changing the title in this to “PSA (Sold Out): Race Face Aeffect single chainset £60”???

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    Good job they’re gone, I’d have had one of those!

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    the’re nothing like proper Five:Ten stealth rubber, don’t kid yourself. It’s not great. I might get them resoled in proper stealth rubber if I ever wear them out.

    ..

    Depends which 5:10’s you’ve got

    • Stealth Mi6: 52a durometer, Five Ten’s grippiest rubber, superior cushioning
    • Stealth S1: 64a durometer, Five Ten’s most versatile rubber (grip, cushioning, durability)
    • Stealth Phantom: 65a durometer, essentially coloured version of S1
    • Stealth C4: 76-80a durometer, typical skate shoe-style grip

    Thanks simon. It would appear that the Freerider Elements VXi use the Stealth Mi6

    From pinkbike’s review of the Terrex Trail Cross Protect:

    On the pedals, the Stealth Rubber is less sticky and has a faster rebound than the softest Mi6 compound found on Five Ten’s Impact VXi. The Stealth S1 compound used on Five Ten Freeriders and the new Danny MacAskill signature shoe still deliver more grip and tack. It has a softer feel to the Marathon/Mn rubber compound found on the Five Ten Dirtbags, which is the hardest wearing rubber from the Stealth line. Adidas wouldn’t specify which rubber compound is used and it could be a whole new compound or borrowed from somewhere else in the Stealth range. Whichever compound they have chosen, it’s grippy enough for trail bike endeavors and dare I say it, enduro, but downhillers or people hunting for more grip should stick with a shoe using Mi6 or S1.

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    I’ve got some Adidas Terrex Protect shoes/boots with “stealth” rubber.

    The’re nothing like proper Five:Ten stealth rubber, don’t kid yourself. It’s not great. I might get them resoled in proper stealth rubber if I ever wear them out.

    I never had problems getting my Freerider Elements VXi dry, but two pairs did have their lifespans massively extended by gratuitous use of Shoe Goo and Freesole sticking the sole back on (a very common issue).

    FWIW, the elements won’t keep you properly dry but the lack of a mash front panel means they resist small splashes and whatnot for much longer than non-Elements freeriders.

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    I wear what I think is an appropriate amount of protection for what I consider the risk for the riding I I’m doing.

    I don’t hark back to ye old days when men were real men, women were real women, and an MTB festival was 24 hours of riding round a muddy field ;-)

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    stu- I had to google to check the name of that trail, but yeah – f’ked me up good that did.

    Any advice I could possibly give had already been given but I’ll repeat it for weight:

    Brake early so you’re not heavy on the front brake while cornering – faster is better when it’s lumpy, to keep you rolling.

    Lasercock – who doesn’t want a laser cock.

    Practice your Euro-hops or nose-wheelie turns for when it’s smoother but really tight – certainly practising the balance is no bad thing.

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    Some people eh, it’s like they need spoon feeding common sense

    Ooh, I’m really sorry for explaining their reasoning without condoning their actions. Maybe you should take a teaspoon of civility while I take my common sense eh.

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    lordmerchant – swapping a rim is a great way to start wheelbuilding. You can skip the whole palaver of having to lace it, just unwind the spokes one by one and reattach to the new rim. If you make a balls up of it. you can always take it to a shop! Plenty of good folk here would be happy to write a more detailed and helpful procedure if you’re interested.

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    Wont be long before the whole motorway network is covered and they get switched back on permanently…

    Don’t tease, that would be bliss.

    You will of course always come across the truck driver up your chuff intimidating you through average speed camera sections

    Or their speedo is calibrated more accurately than a passenger car?

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    Don’t rim-brake rims normally have a wear indicator groove running around the circumference?

    If you can’t see this, you’ve presumably worn through it.

    If you’re thinking about it anyway, just replace it man! What’s the worst that could happen if you didn’t?

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    Time to jump on the bandwagon.

    I’ve been wanting a welding set for ages. I nagged work and and managed to get on a welding course (I’m an engineer. I specify welds all day long, surely I should have an appreciation of what it is like to weld…..) and found that i’m pretty handy at Arc as well as TIG and MIG.

    I quite want to make some basic furniture using welded SHS etc. coffee table, breakfast bar, dining table frame.

    If the difficulty of laying down a basic weld isn’t too much of a hurdle (getting the settings right will take much more practice and experience!!!) then should I just get started with a 2nd hand Arc set? Or would jumping straight in to a TIG set up for working with thinner wall stuff? (like y’know, eventually bikes…)

    and yes, an auto-darkening mask is a must-have.

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    Anyone with any sense would happily tolerate the nose of a bean-to-cup coffee machine in their office with the convenience of having  bean-to-cup coffee machine in their office. A boiling kettle for an Aeropress or filter won’t be much better – it’s not intolerable but it is noticeable.

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    Yep, shame tha S5 was binned. Of the grassy stages it was the best, the only one that really had any proper fun corners on in. Yes the transition was out there but the shortened course only knocked 4 or 5 km off the full loop. I reckon it was just the size of the day out that people were knackered by. Given the location of the event base and the location of the ‘proper’ race stages (S1, S2 and S4) they were a bit hamstrung about linking it all together.

    I’m concerned about the long term viability of the event due to tree felling. A few years back when it was the Orange Backcountry Enduro or the Kidland enduro, it was all compact, 4 stages of steep gnar in the woods. Now 2 of those stages (ware gone e raced one of them last year on the NN). Also the route map had S4 marked on the other side of the forest road – same as last years S3. Come the event, that side of the plantation was being felled and we had a new stage on the other side – was this stage hastily rebuilt? Will this area be felled too?

    I’m not really a fan of the grassy stages, S3 (rocky horror) had me crawling along that off-camber rocky slope like bambi. would have killed for a sheep track let alone some proper benching!

    Overall, I felt much better by the end of Sunday than after Saturday practice. Group faff setting off meant we missed out practising S2. 2 and a half hours to practice the two stages (including an hour transition to the top of S1) wasn’t enough time… when they didn’t publish the closure times on the info board at the sign-on desk. opening times but no closure times! (it was hidden away in the pdf info pack). So on Saturday I’d ridden over 40 km and 1300m of climbing to ride two good descents.

    Raced badly but had a good time anyway.

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    I bought a £20 fan heater, which puts out 2kW so heats up the van pretty quickly. This power rating would be above the 6A circuit breaker trail_rat mentions but you should be able to adjust the power down if you’re unsure. Obviously smarter solutions exist but It’s pretty small and cools down quickly so packs away in to a cupboard when not in use.

    We’ve also got a hand-me-down butane gas cartridge heater but it was absolutely pathetic TBH.

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    I was bought some fleecy Crocs. The’re sweaty.

    I can highly recommend the Camper wool slippers I had before them though.

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    I was born a citizen of the EU and I’m pretty miffed, I must say.

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    I’ve camped at the youth hostel before (in the van, in the car park). Hot showers and a drying room (for the kayakers), all we needed.

    They also have grass for camping.

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    Do you know when he arrives? Is it regular enough?

    Be there waiting when he turns up. Take photos of his parking. Take photos of him walking away. Be very overt about it. If he says anything, it’s “for the records” or “for evidence”. He knows he’s being a twit and you might shame him in to reasonableness.

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    I’m running Maxxis 2.5″ (WT) tyres with a mudguard and have loads of room, so you’ll likely be fine with your existing forks.

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    By prepare for the worst, I assume you mean that she’ll have a reduce independence of life – then yes. My better half (who has done stints in Geriatrics) would reckon that if someone was living independently before a fall and hip fracture then they won’t go back to that same independence of living. Maybe a carer, but once they’ve had one fall it’s much more likely to happen again.

    Healing thoughts!

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    I’d be there but we’re doing the Cirque du Soleil on the Sunday. I’ll see if I can get the Mrs to come along for a Fri-Sat otherwise I may just come solo ;-)

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    Yeah, that’s the effect of the derailleur spring, not the clutch. the clutch (on a shimano derailleur) is most certainly stiction.

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    the clutch is just a smaller spring

    Not quite; it’s adding stiction, not friction, and it’s the complete antithesis to all the efforts to create low-stiction suspension systems with better seals, bearings and buttery smooth action.

    If you have a system that has zero chain-growth through the suspension stroke then you can have both supple suspension, rattle-free riding & chain retention.

    i.e. a derailleur with an idler or concentric pivot.

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    DHF, DHR. Don’t overthink it.

Viewing 40 posts - 921 through 960 (of 3,907 total)