It’s fun. I used to live in SF and we’d do the trip once or twice a year.
The village is a good place to stay. It’s near where the van picks you up so no need to drive, they do stay and ride deals, and there are shops and bars. Maybe not the cheapest option but handy.
XC or DH? The place has a history of DH and there are still a good selection of DH trails. But the trail riding is great also. Long runs, dusty, and somewhat rocky. True XC, with climbing, is certainly possible but the altitude will kill you. The base of the mountain, where the chair lifts are, is at 9000 ft.