I am from the other thread started this morning regarding the import VAT due from Germany. I have looked back at the transaction and if the item was going to be charged VAT upon entering the UK then VAT should not have been take at checkout initially or if it is then it needs to be refunded back to me now. In effect it is being charged twice and with the hassle and extra expense incurred now from UPS putting the handling fee on.

Thanks for the help so far on this thread, I have not paid the tax and the courier has taken the item away. I have just emailed the retailer to try and resolve this but its put a £160 over £200 which i`m not willing to do so it may have to be returned now. As mentioned in the future this will be ironed out no doubt but at the moment its not a good experience on something that is usually straight forward.

Yes, I have checked the invoice and I have paid (Sales Tax : United Kingdom @ 20% at point of purchase. From seeing this my understanding is this should have been sorted at their end when sending it via UPS and declared? It seems now I am being charged VAT twice and a £11 handling fee on top.

Yes, I paid 20% to the retailer at point of sale

It specifies that the charge is for Import VAT and there is 11.50 Handling fee also on top of the £30 Import VAT

After a ride I usually degrease the chain and then relube about an hour before riding.
I have read recently that after degreasing you should then wash the chain also though for better results otherwise the lube will just get gunked up when reapplied? I know after being out on the bike the chain comes back black so maybe have another look at routine of cleaning and lube afterwards. My winter bike and chain seem to be fine with this process, the rust was on the bike that was used in autumn and developed the rust, the plates just have an eroded look to them. The rollers proably still fine you would think.

Yes, I know there are a lot of fake chains floating around which would account for the rust and lower grade metals (ebay looks to have a lot) but I am pretty sure this one is genuine, it was purchased from Wiggle. It just seems to be a lower grade metal, I previously ran an Ultegra one for a long time and had no issues. I have taken it off to give it a good clean and degrease again with some spray cleaner but the texture of the metal isnt great. Not sure what to get next when I do replace but this has only done about 300 miles. I prefer Shimano I think in 11 speed but use the KMC on my 9spd.

Yes I heard that about KMC making the 105 chain but the finish on the metal looks totally different to my 9spd which has been on a long time through two winters and suffered no plating issue whatsoever. Interesting to hear the dura ace chains are premium then and actually made by Shimano, its disappointing for this to be in a bad way after only ten or so rides, the 11 speed chains can be costly also compared to the 9spd. I hope the rest of the groupset fares better than the chain as my really old 105 stuff is bombproof.

Thanks for your thoughts and suggestions so far :) That has given me plenty to think on.
I think with a standard ish XC frame it is recommended to run 120mm forks, I am going to be using some 100mm Reba forks I think so it is going to sit up slightly lower isn`t it at the front end?
With regards to the 10speed bits I have, they are older version so are definitely non boost so I think its safe to say I am best to go down the non boost route, the forks are also non boost so I guess in the event of wheels being replaced in the future there will be less options but still possibilities as there are many bikes out there with the same requirements.
Is the latest geometry aimed at the enduro style postion for hardtails, they look to have increased the suspsion travel and changed the gear ratios with the single ring becoming the thing to have now. I have been running triple chainsets but never use the inner ring to be fair anyway so double at most would be acceptable.

Thanks for the responses regarding running this triple.
Ive just measured the BB Shell and is infact a 68mm width. I still need to check the bottom bracket spec I have but I will go ahead and try it as suggested then I can see how it is sitting chainline wise and if it is going to fit. I could infact remove the inner chain ring couldn`t I? The front mech I have should be ok to work with this chainset as it was for a triple anyway, but the shifter is a double (9Speed ultegra).

Thanks for the replies, yes be great to get hold of one to try and get them set up a little better.

Hi, I have just come across this thread, a few people recently on here kindly advised me that the rebound can be adjusted via the 3mm long length wand tool. Unfortunately I cannot get hold of one locally no doubt because it is for an old set of forks though I see there are still people still using and enjoying them.
Does anyone have an old tool they no longer require, also would a standard 3mm hex key head work? I see it would need to be very long (300mm?)

I have just been looking at the manual for the 2002 MXC AIR that you kindly linked thanks Kimbers, It looks like I need a 3mm very long hex key (am I right in that it needs to be a 300mm length key) as once i deflate the forks and remove the 21mm covers and compress them its still a long way down through the rod to access the hex point? Its promising to hear that the rebound can be tuned via this method as they are still in good condition and I have tried them at different pressures and changed oil a while ago but still not getting the response I thought they were capable of.

Hi kimbers, i remember seeing a video i think a while ago regarding this, thanks for your help on this. It was a long time ago now since i took the legs out and changed the oils. It does sound interesting that the rebound adjust is down in there then, I will just have to figure that one out as it looks a lot longer than any hex key i have, says its a 3mm on one thing ive just read, I think the forks are 105mm travel and definitely 2002.

Yes all the mountain bikes i have ever ran have been triples. I guess times change and technology and geometry has been tweaked. I was tempted by the one one scandal but I think a 29er sounds a big jump up from a lifetime riding 26, I did ride a specialized 29 a while ago and while it felt fast the handling suffered but that is because it was new to me also I think.
The onza bikes looked a great buy when they were on offer but being steel were heavy rigs at about 13.5kg, I would ideally like it a bit lighter so the aluminium whilst not as solid fits that criteria. Decent forks alone ramp the build price up of course, most the other bits can be got cheap. Im still after some more forks for my 26 bike but they are hard to come by now.

Yes, good suggestion on the spacer suggestion and the forks being tapered to get a better deal when looking on frame options. The 29er option I had also considered when i mentioned the on one scandal mtb frame but of course you get clearance issues but I have seen some frames seem to happily run both. One thing regarding the groupset is I am old school in that my old bikes run triple chainsets which are massively in decline now with most running single ring and large ratio cassettes which makes sense as long as the front chainring has enough for the mixed range of riding I will probably do. On that note “demonracer” I had seen those octane ones which look a solid enough frame but had been put off by the single ring only option on the front but I have since sold the triple chainset I had for the build and had a rethink as they are a bit of hassle to set up and am open to a double or even single ring set up but would need to have a switch round with the groupset bits I have?
Before the price of second hand bikes hit the roof I was looking for a 27.5 hardtail like a cannondale or something and could have swapped these parts over as I like some of their frames and many others of course but the way things have gone now that would not be a good option to keep the budget down.

That cc-2 looks a great piece of kit. I would settle for a standard drop in currently that measures for 0.5. Yes I have seen the guides about measuring manually, with a few calculations. I’ll see if I can source one :) as then I can stay on point with replacements, I’m fine on my mtb and winter bike as they are 8&9 speed.

Yes, i know what you mean about the summer bikes lasting forever. The fact the chain has not reached the stretch point us somewhat puzzling though compared to on my mtb where it did within 500miles. I know its very different situations but I would have thought the stretch side of things would happen through use still regardless of conditions though the quality of chain and groupset varies and the weight of bike and wattage running through to make it move all is different too. I don’t really want to but another chain measure tool, most only do 0.75 or 1.00, tho saying that if the optimum time to change is 0.5 for 11spd I should probably look to get one to know when that is :)

Thanks for the thoughts and suggestions. As it isn’t at 0.75 yet I will put a new chain on before any more miles on that bike. My chain tool only tests for 0.75 and 1.00 so I can’t be more specific on stretch just that isn’t dropping into the 0.75 just yet. Good point made about the 0.5 being the optimum time for 11spd. I do think the ultegra cassette looks very well built and finished compared to lesser ranges. I have got some 105 stuff on a winter bike and must say the finish does look much better on the ultegra. The thing is the winter bike is used in terrible conditions in comparison to the summer bike drive train wise so cannot really be compared like for like. Ultegra cassettes are not cheap, though if they are lasting like this one seems to be so far they are worth the money. Well 3000 odd miles on a chain and not big stretch is good I thought, but bike and conditions, rider, chainrings varies, this was all on a brand new bike.

I am looking at doing some riding over in South France or South Spain. I have done a few trips that way just on foot to Granada, Malaga, Cordoba etc and that GR7 route @fatmountain sounds interesting. I have heard theres some great routes in the UK also of course, just with the endless rain its going to take a bit longer yet to recover in some areas. The attraction of Spain is the drier terrain and warmer weather. It does seem like a lot of hassle flying though with a bike if only for a short trip and can add to expense.

Those aero options sound very interesting on aliexpress? I know for a long time that there was a concern over carbon components, as I recall seatposts stems etc and not to be purchased if counterfeit of course for safety reasons but these offerings sound good if with the original rims and decent quality hubs. The £200 price for the ultegra was at fawkes cycles. I agree £1000 sounds a serious outlay for some wheels to me, I had some that were £650 (vision T42) but they had a flimsy build to me and whilst they had an aero advantage they were only a best occasion wheelset.

Thanks for the suggestions, very interesting on the handmade, I have some old style mavic sup rims on Shimano 105 hubs that just ride so well for some reason and feel special compared to my vision t30/shimano rs11? The Hunt wheels look really good but the deal on the Ultegra has swayed me that way I think. They look decent for the price, I was tempted on the carbons when I saw some in a shop (rs700) but they are still a similar profile with them being 24/30 instead of 24/24.

I really rate the pro carbon as a spring summer autumn ride but I realised pretty early on after purchase it was unsuitable as a winter machine. I have always ran 25s no problem (Conti grand sport/Vittoria Corsa G+) however once u had even the slightest layer of grit/debris which Is inevitable on wet and dirty roads there is an issue with clearance and that’s on 25s. Basically I would say it is only great for good conditions, as you say if desperate for use in winter to drop to a thinner say 23 would give that but more clearance but do you really want thinner tyres at the time of year, for me definitely not so I would not recommend as a winter option. Ashame as they are great, comfortable bikes but the clearance is it’s achilles heel I’m afraid.

My Trigger 4 also came with a Deore triple. From what i`ve seen the majority were all built up with a Deore triple, they have moved onto using a double now on this years Trigger 4.

It happens when pedalling , I can make it happen when off the bike and just syandimg over it pushing the bike forward with the front brake on.

Interesting, thanks for the suggestion. I did take the bottom bracket apart yesterday and examined that. Yes I do have another set of forks to try to see if that eliminates the noise. I am not sure which part of the fork it is if indeed it is but from what I have researched the steerer can often be the culprit as opposed to the stanchions. I guess I need to establish the cause then make a decision. I don`t want the noise to be caused by the forks as they are going to be pricey to replace as the noise is pretty unpleasant and loud while riding.

Thanks a lot for the info, yes the sentinels seem to fit the bill :) the steel free body are out of stock though. Is the free body generally made of alloy or steel, for instance on on my existing deore hub?

Thanks for the info there :) I am looking at the 31 pacenti rims as the offer on the 28s has finished. Has anyone experience of the 31s? There is also the sentinel rims for a little cheaper but I think the pacenti look worth the extra money

I am looking to keep the price to around the £100 mark. I have seen some XT Hubs on Mavic 319 rims – would they be comparable in quality to the superstar offerings around the £150 mark? I have seen a few other offers here and there. Still want to keep some strength in there but would like a bit less weight than the ones factory fitted as I think they are weighty.

How do the switch hubs compare to say some Shimano Deores? I have always ran shimano for 20ys (lx/xt/deore) always been very happy. I noticed when looking at the factory shimano offerings they are centre lock as standard which is hassle when needing 6 hole. I’ve seen these at rose bikeshttp://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/mtb-wheel-set-26-mavic-xc-717-disc–shimano-deore-xt-756/aid:575539 would the superstars be similar. I’ve not weighed my current pair which are black eye rims but guess they are heavy though pretty durable. The front hub is poor and doesn’t run like the rear as its a cheap kk which is main reason for upgrade and to get a bit lighter and better running hubs :)

Thanks for the replies :) yes i spotted the sentinel rims and am tempted on those. It could be tricky to source a QR adaptor though. I have been reading round about the Axel types and have read a lot of people have switched to Axel thru from standard QR. Would this be an option? Something like this http://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/10mm-rear-qr-through-axle.htm?page=6#reviews or should I source some wheels from elsewhere? I did check some good deals at rose bikes on shimano hubs. My rear is currently OK and a deore but the front is a kk and doesn’t roll as well but didn’t really want to run odd wheels.

Yes, good idea :) if I get them running I will give them a go first. I will order some 7.5 fork oil. They aren’t that responsive at the moment and are quite squelchy? I’ve been looking on eBay at some Reba’s, they look to be going for around £100 but its a risk with forks I think. Unlikely new forks will be under £200. It seems forks cost almost as much as my bike did. Prices have gone up :(