I was going to order some trailcross pro clip in myself in a UK 11.5. I know with Adidas and the different manufacturers it can be tricky to determine the size until you try them on. I got some sleuth dlx that fit pretty well but with no returns and the Delivery costs at this place it puts me off getting them. Of course the price is good if they fit OK but if you have to return them and then potentially re order and still the fit may not be as desired when sizing up.

Yes the route guide was a good idea. I always find with the mountain biking, to get to good areas it can take a long time of riding over roads or certainly a lot of terrain that doesn’t warrant a mountain bike. I think though just getting out and exploring is a lot fun, regardless of the bike infact. With trail centres they can be good for the odd go but I think of them as theme parks where you almost ride the attraction. It’s getting harder to find good natural mtb terrain nowadays though certainly near me in the east midlands from home. I think many getting onboard with the gravel bikes are previous 90s gen mtb riders before mtbs went all high tech with the suspension just to get some freedom riding bike which is why I still like riding 90s mtbs for their versatility. Mbuk was a nice magazine back in the day, it was a pretty new thing though, now we it is constantly being repackaged with new wheel sizes and standards and categories.

Looks like there will be some more good deals coming up as all these five tens look in stock in all sizes.

Which are narrow, the trailcross and holes, these sound poor? Build quality wise?

Cheers for your thoughts, yes hellcat look good, similar to my five ten sleuth style I think only with the clip option. The trailcross look cool but I hear they are ideal if your are spending a lot of time wearing them off bike as opposed to clipped in. I also see they do a kestrel pro which isn’t in this offer but looks like a full on xc hard stiff sole version. I guess I want the best of both worlds but ideally some warmth with the colder weather, my shimano are very cold with the open cleat area below meaning cold feet even with taping it up and wearing thermal socks and overshoes haha but that’s deep winter of course.

Are the five ten range good in clip in version as well? I know they are well regarded for flats. I am looking at some for gravel/Road combined using xt spd pedals. I have some older shimano which are OK but wanted to try something a bit more comfy which these look. I guess I’m spending most the time locked into the pedals but I prefer to have a recessed clear like the mtb one to be honest for this type of riding and use. Are the hell at or freerider good options?

Would have like to have give one of these a try but missed it. I guess they just sold so many at this price point before pulling the deal. I didn’t get on well with the magnetic / fluid trainers that well but would have liked to try the newer offering a so heard it enhanced the ride (gradients etc)

I have watched the video, it’s says if there are any signs of separation or delamination get it checked at a local authorised Shimano dealer. However I have also heard people have had failures occur with no warning. The last time I checked my bike that has Ultegra 6800 all looked fine so it’s as you were for me. Definitely disappointing for those that have had failures in the past and weren’t helped when they occurred. It’s good that they are doing what should have been doing finally, no doubt due to the fact that it carried on to the newer released groupset upto 2019, and wasn’t just on Ultegra 6800 infact which is what most if the incidents I had heard of were using.

That anxiety really is your mind warning you of the danger that is infact real.

I think you get a lot adrenaline from road riding which can improve your performance infact but it can take some managing. You are trying to go against your body’s natural alarm system which can be done with practice and you will become more used to it the more via exposure to the situation. It does carry extra risk of course but in winter I prefer to ride roads usually as its cleaner and less hassle with heavy mud etc but it depends what your personal preference is. I just hate deep cleaning my bike after a ride which has to be done after mountain biking for instance.

Ideally don’t wear race lycra race kit. I find when I ride in full race gear I get way more attention than when I ride a mtb in standard clothing which tells it’s own story. I can almost guarantee on a ride I will have one incident where someone has driven near me aggressively or made comment etc. Sad times, ideally as said previously stay off the narrow fast roads as people don’t want to wait anymore. I think many riders are finding themselves going back to the canals and disused rail track type riding. The stress levels are night and day infact when I rejoin a road after being on a trail it’s pretty unpleasant. Also it seems there’s an unhealthy amount of Horrible SUV type vehicles hammering it and riding near to cyclists also. I may get rid of my road bike as its become unpleasant at times which is ashame as you need to use the roads to get to the quiet roads up in the hills and out in the country.

Yes having just checked the geometry chart it’s huge for a large, 592 effective to tube, usually you would expect that to be about 560ish. Head tube also long at 19 which isn’t the worst thing for being upright for you with the back etc but the length would be a stretch for me and I’m 6 foot. And like an ett around 565ish.

Definitely a medium all day long for you.

Update on the bb, I tried a different hollowtech 2 bottom bracket and the chainset slid on pretty easily, still had to push it in with force but by hand and was very quick. The effort yesterday was too much so at least I know there is no issue with the frame or chainset and that the bb was the issue.

I have just tried another bottom bracket over the chainset and both cups slid over fine with a little force but not too much by hand with the bb out of the frame.

I guess this ultegra one I have I will have to contact the retailer now to explain the situation and see what they can do to resolve it. At least it appears the bottom bracket was where the issue seems to be and not with the chainset.

<p style=”text-align: left;”>Yes, i am pretty sure the components are genuine as they were bought from big reputable uk based retailers. The bb was very easy to install and the frame had previously come factory fitted with a fsa mega exo bb and chainset which came off very easily and slid out fine with minimal fuss. I did try sliding the left hand cup onto the axle with them off the frame and it went over fine. I had issues from the beginning with the right hand drive side cup, with the grey cover cap straight away getting stuck over the axle at the opening as I discovered this shortly after inserting the chainset and it not progressing through the bb.</p>
I was thinking of trying the chainset in another bike I have to see if that slides in OK as I need to confirm whether it is the bb or chainset that is causing issue. I find it hard to believe with these genuine Shimano components there would be an issue like this. I had though about the frame facing also but the fact that it was struggling to let the chainset get through the driveside axle it has made me think the grey top hat and chainset axle could be the issue in sizing?

I will try the above mentioned with another bb and also try the chainset on another bb and see if things become any clearer and as you say I may also check with a local bike shop regarding the grey top hat sleeve sizing as a final check after the ones I can do myself.

Yes, thanks for the advice. I will try this again in the morning, my back and legs are done after the 2-3 hours crouched down earlier doing this. I would have used a stand but with all the heavier work it became difficult to get the chainset in (albeit only 90%) and then back out again. I will try switching the top hats also. I have tried the non drive side cup over the chainset axle and it does go on much easier than the drive side which points to that as being the culprit. I guess then it’s just a case of getting a new bottom bracket and hopefully that will work easier this time but one step at a time. I will try that chainset in another bb first on another bike also to check that is fitting through ok but definitely won’t be forcing it on after today’s troubles.

Me neither before. I did have a dura ace chainset that had to be lightly tapped out to remove on a cx bike a few years ago but overall I have always hand fitted them 20-30odd times with no fuss. This one felt wrong from the start but I have to establish if it is the bb or the chainset that is causing this issue.

It was lined up correctly. I have now managed to remove the chainset and took the bottom bracket cups off the frame. The non drive cups fit over the axle after a decent amount of force but the drive side is the stubborn one. As soon as I went to put the chainset in when I first started the installation it felt extremely right and as result when I pulled the chainset back out it had the grey bearing cover attached to the chainset still stuck over at the point where it would slide now further down the axle. It seems the tolerance on this is too severe possibly. I am not labouring or hammering it on like it was starting to need to get it 90% of the way through so I will have to let the store know and get a replacement sorted. I have tried another bb sleeve and the chainset slid on with minimal fuss so it’s definitely the bb on the drive side. A lot of labour and effort, my back isn’t great now. Has anyone experienced this issue before with ultegra on grx maybe   or even other similar type set ups? I am surprised as usually my previous 20 off chainset installations have been a piece of cake. Ashame about this one. Would the facing be worth considering. I am thinking as the problem was even getting the axle started on moving tbrough suggests it’s too tight there. I know it needs to be very tight but this was beyond that in my opinion.

Yes I did replace the fsa bb with an ultegra bbr60 and using a grx600 hollowtech chainset. Out of ideas with it being so right at the entrance though now? 

Thanks for the advice so far, I noticed the part where it is very tight is on the drive side as when going to insert the axle initially it wouldn’t go through any further and when I took the chainset out it had pulled the grey bearing cover from the drove side of the bottom bracket. Now I have tapped the chainset back out but it’s got 90% back out and stuck there so it seems to me there is an issue with the axle getting through the first section of the bb bearing which seems strange. Any advice on what to regarding that is it may not be alignment based on it being so tight to come in and out on the drive side entrance before it gets to even go through to the other side?

The one in previously from the factory build was 19mm axle, I guess the tolerances are different between this shimano ultegra bb hollowtech set up and the previous fsa mega exo? Very surprised about this as never had this issue before? Could the bb need facing then? Not sure whether to try and knock the chainset that is 90% through the axle back out now or leave it and see what a bike mechanic says then as if the frame may be a problem I’d rather not risk damage.

Hi yes it is a new bike (jamis renegade steel gravel bike) it came factory fitted with an fsa chainset and I have removed the bb and chainset and swapped it over for GRX 600 to match the groupset.

When you say bearing alignment it is a hollowtech bbr60 bottom bracket which I though you just screw into the frame as I did to install, the bb went in fine. Could there be an issue with the alignment of the frame itself then causing this difficultly with getting the Axle through the bb shell successfully?

Some good bits on there. I wish I had seen the grx600 double chainset earlier as its out of stock now but the single GRX810 is still available but I’ve got a double set up.

There are plenty of quality used road bikes around it seems. You get a lot of spec for your money. If you are buying new then it will cost a lot more of course but I know not everyone wants to buy second hand.
The big question is it for year round road riding, I am thinking heavy winter use also or are you looking at alternating with the steel rig you already have for mixed riding conditions. I would prefer to go carbon as its very light of you are planning on doing a lot of climbing, mine weighed in at about 7.5-8kg which was OK. I have ridden alu bikes that were more 9.5kg which still were good and I guess the advantage of alu is its a safer bet buying second hand also but depends how worried you get about these things. I would get a nice second hand road bike and then bring it to life with a decent set of new wheels and tyres. I love the road riding when you get to the nicer quiet roads and village routes but like many have turned to riding more off road just as I find it more relaxing away from the traffic but am keen to ride in the road bike again soon.

Great price on the rim road brakes there but be aware they are 13.2mm inner rim width so I wouldn’t go above a 25 in them ideally. Be great for most older road frames which have minimal clearance anyway. I use shimano wheels with a 15c inner rim and do run a 28 tyre OK so I guess there’s nothing stopping it but for better tyre performance I would prefer 25 and below on a 13mm inner rim

How is it when pedalling forwards? Backwards pedalling isn’t something we do is it? I think the edge that is catching like you show on the second video is caused by the chainline not the chain link type. Due to the extreme angle of is going across when in that final gear. I would keep to pedalling it forwards and I assume the link pin is locked in fully. That causes a similar jump but I see on the last video it points to chainline being the cause I think?

I have just taken the cap and cables off the lockout section and have established with a 8mm spanner that even when manually turning it to the lockout position it still won’t lockout which means the issue must be internal it seems.
I only persevered trying to keep re tensioning the cable because I had the for locking out a couple of days ago whilst trying but the lockout showed as unlocked in the remote when it was locked and then when i switched to lock it unlocked the forks? Not sure how that happened but I probably should have kept it like that as it was locking and unlocking via remote?

No worries, I’ve seen some videos on YouTube and I am pretty sure I am connecting it up right, it does say to put the switch into unlock position before connecting the cable up reasonably tightly. Hard to establish how the lockout needs to work as I cannot test it until its cabled up and then switch to lock. I still unsure how I did it but I had it locked while it was switched to unlock and then turned it and it unlocked it. I should have kept it like that, it’s not the end of the world as there’s nit a big issue with bobbing for general riding but would be nice to have the option

Just stay away from anything with the word gravel in it as you will pay about 3 times the price for it. This gravel bike craze, I’m seeing sora specced out bikes that would have cost £300-400 for near on a grand and they weigh as much nearly as hardtail too. That Jack flash looks OK for the price of you have a set of wheels and forks etc already knocking around. I see they even do it in a 26 but I’m after a steel 26 really. The old xc hardtails make great bikes still I think and are much better value than the new gravel bike. A lot don’t include hydro brakes unless you want to pay about £300 extra for what would cost £80 if it was a flat bar and not drop bar.

Nice article on Steve peats, to be honest I have had enough of hearing about aero gains and performance gains on bikes. I have spent the last decade or so doing a lot of road riding and whilst I want a decent set up I enjoy the mtb riding more for the exploring and escapism. I was just very sceptical when I got this wheels that them not turning on the hand for more than 3 or 4 seconds was going to account for more than just a few watts. Now I’ve heard more opinions and knowledge from others it seems there is a lot more to it. I have probably spent too long with either old retro worn mtb wheels or brand new high performance road wheels with no middle ground. I will definitely be keeping the seals on the way the weather is shaping up, I guess for road use in summer running without the seals would be do able but not on mtb in my experience, not if you want them to last long anyway.

Thanks for the advice, the bearings have a high grease fill level apparently and feel that way so I am happy with them. Regards the seals are people using grease also around those externally too? I am waiting for rotors before I can fit them for usage, do the rubber seals bed in usually if they are a tighter fit at first?

I did try it with the seal out of the way and it ran cleanly with none of the resistance that was there before but in winter and especially dirty muddy conditions the seals are a must surely to protect things.
As said with a tyre on I’m sure the weight will improve the rolling time in the stand but I have mainly used cup and cone wheels in 26 and road bike QR wheels in the past so have never had issues like this.

I have had another look at the wheels today and re checked everything. It is definitely the seal that is causing the excessive friction against the adapter that is running into it and against the bearing. The bearings are SKF and feel pretty decent. Has anyone experienced similar with new wheels and the close fit between the seal and the adapters. I am hoping this will loosen up after a few rides and bed in. I guess the seal is tight which is a good thing for protection and real world differnce it won’t add to many watts to my efforts will it?

I have the fuel hubs and whilst they aren’t squeaking they are tight when turning the front wheel while on the stand spinning only for a few seconds. I have narrowed it down to it being the rubber seal fit against the adapter which is causing excessive friction. I assume due to the tight tolerance of the seals. The bearings are SKF and feel nice and spin up nice but the seals are causing the tighter feel to things.

Yes all good suggestions thanks, the bearings were fitted by manufacturer, yes I have heard that the grease level determines how easily the bearing will rotate and over time that should free up. I think it just comes down to the fact I have never experienced a wheel not spinning freely for more than a few seconds before unless something was wrong somewhere. As it is a front wheel too even with high grease fill etc I would still expect the wheel to turn more easily than it does.

OK, yes I see what you mean. The hub is a aivee MT2 and I think the tight feeling could be from the seal that seems pretty tight as I’m sure it needs to be to do its job but was the only other thing I can factor in that is causing it.

The wheel can be held by hand and spun holding the end caps or I can put it in the forks and get the same result. I haven’t put a tyre on it yet or a disc rotor but just concerned at this stage that all isn’t right with the hub set up. It is a front wheel so as I understand there is just the bearing, o ring and 15mm end cap to deal with. The bearing feels smooth and that is OK but once the end cap and o ring are on there is excessive resistance. I have never known a wheel not spin for more than a few seconds, it is a new wheel.

I wouldn’t say it was notchy now when out of the bike but very firm to turn, far more so than any wheel I’ve turned before by a lot. I have pulled the end caps off and the bearings feel pretty smooth but slightly firm as I believe they are highly filled with grease (SKF) however I am not certain the adapter is interfacing 100% with the bearing when the end caps are in position and fitted. I have never used adapter style fittings before, always bolt thru upon purchase from manufacturer or QR mainky with shimano wheelsets.

I am just used to a wheel having more free rotation? It seems tight to me that it’s not spinning freely as it is a front wheel with no interference from the freehub etc.
Is this commonplace then that they can be like this as it is a new wheel with new bearings? With a cup and cone it would definitely not be normal, my other inferno 25 wheels were spinning a lot more freely than this the bearings themselves feel smooth which is why I was questioning the hub adapter interface also as possible cause? There is no noise but the resistance feels pretty excessive to me.

My wheels arrived yesterday, a set of 27mm mtb wheels with fuel hubs.
The front bearings feel tight when turning by hand and when in the forks only roll around for a few seconds. Do I need to try and adjust these myself to get them running more freely? I saw a couple of people had issue with tight fronts or rears. The rear non drive side also feels slightly tight? Could it be to do with the adaptors that were fitted already for me I assume (15mm front and 142mm rear?

Thanks for your thoughts on this so far. I had heard that you could convert many non tubeless rims to run tubeless with taping and adding the valves however the rims not being hooked will make it a trickier process right? With less chance of success even or maybe more difficultly on achieving a good seal. I haven’t used any tubeless before and was considering it for my road bike also which does have Tubeless Ready rims but there is less gain to be had I think when running 25-28mm tyres?

Yes, that is what I was thinking, how many turns do you need to be getting on the skewer but, I can probably measure how far it is screwing in. I have another shimano one which came with the wheels originally but it is a cheaper looking metal version and when locking seems to stay level whereas the other shimano skewers I had fitted have a nicer feel to the finish and when locking go inwards just giving a better feeling of engagement.