usually fewer coils for a given spring weight in a ti spring. Unless you weigh 20 stone, the one in the photo looks like a steel spring painted grey.

and then leave the shop after 3 coffees, asking for a “good puncture repair kit” on the way out.

😆

just like superstar, but more expensive!
Nice pedals mind, whoever’s name is on them.

bike is way too clean too. Mine stops looking like that about 100 yards from the house, holes or no holes.

Not really ‘public’ but when i did my degree there you could just walk in and have a go on the paternoster lifts (which they turn the speed down on every september 😆 ). View from floor 18 would be great if it didn’t look over such a crap town.
Attenborough Building, Leicester University.

Is that your real accent? 😉

Seriously, I love a good english accent in folky music. That Noah and the Whale ‘folk’ nonsense being the opposite of what I like, if that makes any sense.

Great lyrics and nicely ‘dull’ guitar tone as usual too. 😀

Narrow bar and ‘long’ sideways routed brake hoses will make this worse I suppose (old shimano levers by any chance?) as the hose has a tighter curve to make to get round to the first cable guide. I think it is supposed to go that way though. Hold on… (shuffles off to have a look)

You have it the same was as my mate’s (currently living in my conservatory lest his wife find out he has another bike 😆 ) and he has a big bit of heli-tape over headtube/toptube junction. Spoils the anodized yummy matt-ness but at least it will stay black!

crikey, the moderately humorous Surly blurb says it’s even got bosses on the NDS chainstay to carry spare spokes. Surly’s (or is it ‘Surlies’?) are ace, aren’t they?

Brown grips and a brown saddle and that would look the business!

Looks ace Ton. 😀

You want some full mudgards and a rack on it though, then it would be even, err, ‘acer’.

depends which lights? I have one that is really lovely in the dry and when it works, but terribly poorly protected against water (despite being reviewed in a couple of mags including ST as ‘waterproof’) but it is a few years old now, I would hope the newer ones are better.

mike, that vitus you posted looks ace for the money. Full rack/mudguard mounts and 700mm bars (according to the customer reviews), what’s not to like?

I wonder if you are hunched in the drops overtaking some non-fixe total noob etc (on a ‘drive on left’ road like UK or Australia) then the rude word might read pretty easily to the ‘overtakee’.

But yes, these will not sell like hot cakes over here methinks.

Yes, ODI do bars you can screw extra bits into if you want to go wider for a bit.

+1 to drill/schrader valves. Have a look at cynic-al’s home rim drilling thread, you shouldn’t worry about taking power tools to rims that size! And you then still have the option of going back to presta if you want.

GW – Member

those spesh gips aren’t “lock-on’s”

I am not sure that ‘lock-on’ is trademarked yet, or has an international standard like disc brake or chain device mounts to it.

Look, DMR do them with a single clamp on the other end too!

BTW I have used both the ones I posted, and never managed to budge them riding. Perhaps I am not riding hard enough though.

…oh also the longer the bar the beefier it is made in the middle to cope with extra potential leverage.

So I suppose apart from the bit of flex and short grip life, if your bar has always been 680mm and never cut down, you may be ‘levering’ it a bit too much with an extra 20mm on the end.

So yes, new bar again!

New bars, for sure. You will just mash the inside of a lockon grip with the end of the bar if it overhangs by that much.

GW – Member

don’t be silly, a lock on won’t even stay put with only one clamp securing it.

GW, you must get on the phone to these reckless people stat! 😀

Nope, 20mm shimano can only stay as 20mm. The axle is a solid piece 110mm wide so it would be a right mission getting it out and getting a 100mm x9mm axle with massive cones to go in the massive races (yes it is cup and cone effectively, one of the cones is pressed onto the axle).

So new hub/wheel it is. 🙁

DT78, did they sound tight when you first got them?

I thought the octo-boy’s wheels were supposed to be very well built? Back along I remember a whole heap of moaning about the freehubs but not the build, pretty sure a couple of people mentioned how good the build was.

Maybe someone new is ‘building’ them as I imagine he shifts quite a few more sets now than he did a couple of years ago. I suppose you wonder how they get built: if he has a workshop monkey lace them and nip the spokes up to vaguely ‘pingable’ tension before getting someone more experienced to finish them, maybe the OP’s set slipped through the final true/tension.

Or maybe they are just a really really poor build!

So what about the Raceface Circus Of Dirt Summer XC Series[/url]?

‘Silverfish circus of dirt’ doesn’t quite have the same ring 😕

Saw them years ago, (2003?) really great. First album is aaaaawesome, I never got why they weren’t this popular from the start: it’s not like they were unheard of cos they weren’t making as good records as they do now.

My now-failed indie musician besht mate used to have the same music publishers as them and so often met them at music biz ‘events’: says that they are proper nice down to earth non-‘stars’ too.

Bowl?

We got a rose bikes wallet. Humph!

anything French: cheese eating surrender monkeys.

Watches: you must have an Omega Seamaster/You must have the six quid casio one from Argos.

Blaming new labour for everything. Even stuff abroad and from the 50’s.

Criticism of brick pointing, fence painting, neatness of lawn and so on.

Tyre logos and valves. Long brake hoses. Big stems. Wonky saddles.

My favourite recurring threads/themes however are the beer ones. None of that ‘my beer’s better than yours’, just everyone celebrating and telling everyone else about great beers. 😀

I’d like on-one to make the slotty 26″ scandAl in any other colour apart from pink. Anodized silver or red would be fastest :D.

Or indeed a lighter less brutal shorter fork Chameleon would be nice too.

East Grinstead has loads of, errr, ‘niche’ churches in it, non? So i suppose the people that live there are happy 😕

My manly gear and power-thighs used to overcome my non-spring gusset bachelor tensioner every couple of rides. ( 8) … i think) It would skip and then chain was looser afterwards and would skip again on similar gradients/levels of Gurn.

EBB frame here now. Whole bike would be about 1.75lbs heavier now than same parts on old silly-light maxlight xc pro hardtail with the tensioner, but that’s not really worth losing any sleep over really?

Despite being bought band new and meticulous bleeding, mrs julian’s slx and a mate’s servowave xt both feel spongier than the older style shimanos we have had between us (deore/lx/xt/saint), but as above, they still stop really well, its just they feel different particularly if you swap between bikes mid ride.

😆 what an awesome video.

sorry but in a perverse kind of way I sort of like that

I was going to post the Cure’s butchering of ‘Foxy Lady’, but on listening to it again I rather enjoyed it too. 😳

And i thought I hated this at the time, but listening to it again it’s aaaaawsome 😀 . But I will put it up anyway as a nod to the 90’s rave thread.

gggrrrrrrrrrrrr 👿

Mmmmmm, laser tank….

http://www.wired.com/dangerroom/2010/12/super-secret-russian-laser-tank-revealed/%5B/url%5D

Yes, on mine and wife’s commuters as well as my DH/FR bike. Works fine, i suppose its hard if you want shiny shifters and light cassettes but not really a consideration for me.

BTW any ‘9 speed’ mech will work with a 7 or 8 speed cassette and shifter provided you use the corresponding shifter (ie shimano for shimano and sram 1:1 for sram 1:1) so you can still use a slightly nicer rear mech if you wish. Also 9 speed chainsets and rings have been fine.

Sounds like the short on-one headtube is just a teeensy bit too short for the steerer/headset combo. Although i see it is an on-one branded headset 😆 If you managed to rectify it by filing the inside of the wedge, there must have only been a few mm in it…

I wonder if manufacturers anticipated this arising?

Is there a ‘standard’ length of taper already set?
ie steerer returns to 1.125″ by x mm above the crown, to allow frame and headset makers to plan their own parts.

Peter, what is the length of your headtube? How does that compare to short headtubes on ‘normal’ frames? Millie has had (small or laydeez) frames with 90-100mm headtubes before, it would be a shame to lose the option of making them so short becasue you wanted to put a tapered steerer in.

[edit] oh, i see lots of you beat me to all that. ^^ Must type faster.

bar plugs.

I won one once and it went on a mate’s bike (wrong size for mine).
It is nicely finished and light, clamp bolt itself was fine but just the other day the top of the shaft split down the back and the whole clamp came out. He is 11 1/2 stone, rides the bike 4 miles to work 5 days a week and has done maybe a couple of dozen proper off road rides and events on it.

And more seriously and on topic: (and cos John Drummer has already popped up on this thread 😀

😉 8) and indeed

A couple of mates have pro2 fron hubs and never heard of this. The only thing that springs to mind is the 20mm adapters: pro2 adapters and older bulb adapters look similar but are actually different widths; are you sure you have the right set of 20mm adapters on the hub? Correct ones for pro2 are the same width each whereas bulb ones were wider on one side and slimmer on the other. If the wheel was built up with those adapters on, then that would explain it being correctly dished in the fork lowers but not lining up with the disc mount/caliper.

Otherwise it may be worth giving Hope a ring in the week for advice. (excellent aftersales support 🙂 )

Actually druidh’s 11-34 idea is best: probably try that one first, if you have the tools at home for this, have a look on ebay for one as it will likely be a few quid less than if you walk into halfords for one.

If you can change the chainrings on these cranks (a quick google suggests they might be riveted rather than bolted on) then you could even have a 22 tooth small ring, but you would have to get smaller middle and outer chainrings to match as the front derailleur will not be likely to manage pulling the chain from a 22 to 38 tooth chainring in one shift. Rear derailleur should be fine as long as she avoids the smallest 3 or 4 rear cogs when she’s in the smallest front ring: if its not, take a link out of the chain.

If you can afford it, you might be as well off to buy a whole new square taper crankset with 22/32/44 rings (most common for mountain bikes nowadays) and you could also get a rear cassette with a 32 tooth biggest cog. 22 teeth chainring plus 32 tooth rear sprocket is well spinny, hard to get beyong a brisk walking pace in that ratio! If you do change both you would do well to spend £6.50 on ebay on a new kmc 8 speed chain as well so that they all wear out together. Old chain on new cogs is often skippy and wears your new cogs out faster.

Hope that helps.