ok.

thanks everyone.

the back follows the front

ok thanks s/o/g.

yeah cool. I rode some in the alps too on a ht and dragged them loads ( i know), but had to really in sections and they were faultless even with 180 front 160 rear rotors and the original hoses:-)

Recently put some braided hoses on..

immac will be fine on back ( and probably chest)( although I would still use with care etc ).

Immac is good and effective compared to some. Towel over hair / head – spray(works best) on back from over the shoulders – use a cloth to smooth it around a bit if a bit is missed etc.. leave on for given time ( 10 i think ) shower off. Best spray it on whilst in the shower with shower door closed.. So a friend tells me :lol:

immac or similar hair removal cream for ladies. Just remember I think It’s designed for the legs only..so probably with testing it carefully and avoiding some bits

cool thanks everyone. I’ll give them another go. Thanks.

slowoldgit – do you mean 2 or 3 complete cycles of the fluid? or 2 or 3 complete bleeds – ie ride then – redo etc

ok thanks :D

was thinking of a bike-bag / cover type thing but where the wheels are exposed so can be wheeled around…but stays attached to the frame and bits..bit like the blankets that horses have attached to them in winter

thanks all

thanks just read the pannier thread..

not a chance!!

may make a good place your night light battery though..

thanks all. Use the bike for going into town etc and outings….. so no place for storage.

When I say commuting I mean just getting about on/offroad rather then MTBing. So basically going places.. with food, kit etc..

I take a number of locks and need to carry everything..usually take puncture stuff etc etc..so do not want to really cut down on anything…although this is good advice…Will look at the backpack, but tbh I think panniers may well be the way to go…after reading this..

I would not need to have a backpack then…although I never ridden without one for commuting so would feel naked 8O

Thank you all for your input!!

STW rules :mrgreen:

aldi and lidl for basic plain stuff. Always get a size that’s generous too.

very funny. :-)

I’ve got one and love it. Not far off that age now. Been to a few skate-parks and bmx tracks and will be returning if the summer ever comes.However I also just ‘enjoy riding it around’ too. :-)

IMHO – just recontact them on another day if possible ( not ideal though is it!!) , or maybe go to a different store and speak to someone else.Probably very busy at the moment building up bikes as the weather is good so probably busy.

It should be perfect from the start though shouldn’t it.

shame. Halfords can be awesome. Tbh I check stuff if I can to be sure. Hope he is ok and the bike undamaged. if it is take it back!!

I loved Ed’s ‘local video’.

mix it up :D

have a look at the NS Soda -100mm version
??

I like the look of the DMR Bolt personally as featured on here.

what id try imho – Short stem. If cockpit feels too short ( although I think you’d get used to it) try sliding the saddle back on it’s rails. Looks like there’s plenty of scope there. Also personally i’d keep the rear short, as that’s a main point really.Bars can also be rotated to change feel.

rocketdog just forward the video until 5mins 30
glad everyone enjoyed it.

have a look on the magura support forums – do a search. I had a similiar issue with my louise FR’s after they’d been left for a while. Just moved them by hand iirc a good few times to get the lubed again. It worked.

lol

lobo looks so right.

well done.scars fade too.

well said,

i think alot of this maybe the way the fork is setup. If it dives all the time as soon as the front brake is hit then that may not be fun as the ha will change i guess. Although tbh the change isn’t a massive factor imho as per above post. Guess it may come down to the frame too. Surley not all ltht’s are the same.

human propelled fun machines are ace :D

thing is there’s not many short travel burley forks that are any good for hard riding ( unless the travel adjust oin a longer fork is used) . Most of these shorter travel forks are for dirt jumping ( xeno and marz DJ etc 80-100mm) and do not have very good all round abilities, outside of jumping and 4x So the frames in part have been designed around what forks are in the market. Still nice to have the extra travel too though if you hit large rocks etc at speed.

i think was thinking behind the summer season – slack angles yet optimised for a 100mm or whatever travel fork – fair enough. I guess to a point I agree – a burley stiff fork and relaxed angles are fine and probably account for much of confidence given to ltht’s. So the issue is not the travel but a frame designed around a burley fork – and as it happens such forks are usually lt.

i’m a massive hardtail fan really and love ltht’s. for me i hope i never have to ride a 29er. I’ve always run quite a stiff fork on the ltht and still bottom it out sometimes. Granted less can be more but I love the freedom having the xtra travel gives for hooning downhills and that extra margin for error. It’s a nice feeling knowing the back end is bouncing around and the front is dominant in absorbing everything. Plus you can get away with higher pressures in the tyres which is handy if you’ve been doing drops to flat half an hour prior to your descent.Personally I find these bikes add versatility and feel great. Granted they may not be required all the time.

for that price i’d think i’d just keep it and just touch the paint up if possible.It would save getting upset when the first stratches appear on a perfect one.If it’s damaged then fair enough.. but paint gets scratched no matter..just offset the savings by the price of a touch up pen…imho

probably a load of bad riding habits i have that I am not even aware of though :roll:

depends on the mileage but worth checking if the timing belt has been changed. Can be costly on some cars and needs doing at some stage on the mileage. Look down the car to see if the panels are aligned ok (i.e. badly repaired crash damage). Check things like tyre wear ( is it even??) and compare mileage to the interior wear.. for some indication..
see if the engine smokes too..when revved ..can indicate engine wear..not to be confused with just a cold engine though…does it sound ok?? probably other stuff too..

have a look at something to contrast what you have?? say an alpine or short jumpy bike maybe…depends on fork and what parts you already have maybe..I’d probably go for a rigid jumpy type bike..ragleys look good too..

urban routes rule. esp. in the winter in the dark. Nothing quite like a singletrack buzz in solitude and darkness followed in short succession by passing the busy chippy, kebab shops and folk about the town :-)