Nail head from piedifromaggio.
To be fair I have been experimenting the other side of the LBS for the past three and half years and the level of incompetance is sometimes very scary.

thanks everyone

Here is the winner

Ok thanks everyone I’ll have a look at the various website, but looks like Dell may have a winner :D

laptop/tablet I don’t know yet, it’s going to be mainly for office duties.
Obviously laptop gives me the ability to run Linux…

It makes a very nice wheelset, this was my choice, and I can get any product from DT Swiss, it just made a lot of sense in terms of both the money and the quality

Better and probaly not much more money would e to get the XM401 rim laced to the 350 SP hubs with some comp SP.
You’ll get a wheel that is only 47 grs heavier than the XM1501 with the same behaviour and quality. Just with a 350 hubs (same as spline two range) instead of the 240 like on the spline one.
Problem is finding the XM401

Best regards

Obviously Legend of Zelda… I am sure it’s an omission. Earthworm Jim, mario kart, final fantasy

There is a lot of confused eople here.
The whole point of going 148/12 (as boost is trademark by Trek) is to increase the stifness of the wheel by widening the flange distance thus having nothing to do with the 27.5 29+.
You can easily build a 27.5+ rim on a 135/5mm hub. Or a classical rim on a 148/12mm hub.
The difference between classical hubs and ‘boost’ is in the hub shell. This later is wider ( a bit like a 10/12mm hub) and the free hub is the same (basically the rotor kit ref 3188s from DT Swiss for XD will work for both the 1422/12mm hub and the 148/12mm hub) and so is the flange to disc mount distance.
Having end caps and spacers will just be a big bodge and as someone said it is best to sell your rear wheel (fro some reason front ‘boost’ isn’t as widely spread as the rear) to finance a new rear hub.
If I can (meaning I can find an easy way to post a pic here) i will post on the technical drawing between classical hubs and ‘boost’.

HTH

mwaahhh tryong to get hang to ash he’s way too busy for that ;)
plus he mostly rides in remotes pcaes and he is as far as I know the only one doing that.

If ou are looking for similar experiences you could contact Ady in itlaie of Chrisitan in france, although things will not be a guided transprovence.

lucien yes most of the time with french language settings PITA

not on the roof, although Two might go on a bike rack.
Honestly the more i look into it the more I fancy a multibeurk

I can’t think of any brands that don’t direct dealers/customers back to the distribuor of the part.

Well Specialized to start with, Scott as a second, Kona are the first that spring to mind.

Well when your ducat is broken down, you call a ducatti dealer ;)
Same for a car you call the car dealer, not the manufacturer of the part
Then the manufacturer should contact the provider of the part. It is indeed easier for the brand which OEM range is identical to the ASM one.

To be fair two things really piss me off on the phone having a final Customer, and worst, having a final Customer who want help with his canyon…

It generally doesn’t work like that.
Problem with a Shimano part on a Trek? Warranty part sourced through Madison
Problem with Suntour forks on a Specialised? Warranty through Greyville.

Both of the above are warranty claims I’ve personally handled
Brands don’t generally keep stock of all parts they fit to their bikes.

Well that is were the whole industy has gone wrong. I deal with such request on a very regular basis for parts on various bike we can’t have
1 because we’re an ASM business
2 because basically you should ask for the part directly from the brand
3 most of the time I have no idea of the part you need

Then the brand may or may not contact the local importer but that is a whole different story.

Then obviously you have the specific contract between two manufacturers, so depending of the brand of the bike the local importer the answer may be different ;)

To close the story short, well done on Rich.

I am actually investigating that as well.I am gonna try to find a 180mm or 175 mm square taper or ISIS bottom bracket and try to shorten it. Ideally you can get some descent and cheap race face that are not hollowtech and DIY at home as you only need a drill mounted on a stand

The rear hub on the E1900 is not a 350 it’s a 360 or 3P hubs.
It’s the ”new” 3 pwl hub system.
Reference you need for a shimano freehub kit in 142/12 mm is : hwyabm00s6150s which include both freehub and encaps

I hope people don’t seriously think it’s hard to get 26” rims…

We have plenty on stock in the ware house, ready to be shipped to any good LBS (albeit not in the UK) so I am damn sure any LBS can have one in no time

http://www.destination-enduro-06.com/site/kenny-enduro-ride/

Well i’d love to help, but can you be more specific about localisation?

Bump just for the sack of it…

Never said my riding as no weaknesses, and I did say overall it was a good article. I am just saying that there is more to the world of riding than DHers or XC boys.

Even if I am sure to be nowhere near as skilled as Mr Shurter, I do however strongly believe that I am more skilled than any sunday jey hey boy.

the sizes you are looking for are a bit odd.
Basically a DT SWISS SP hubs will give you same length for both side on both wheels

timbur what price poste to france????

Donk check on both wiggle and CRC and nope no rapid rise :'(

anyone willing to make me an offer on a new model posted to cheeseland?

Make sure you have a decent spoke holder. The tricon spokke nipple spanner cost about 13.5€ RPP
It’s worth checking you the nipples are prolock rather than glued

Putting Revolution on 38mm deep carbon rims is a bit thick if you ask me.
Kinda having a wheel with the opposite of what you want.
DT Swiss carbon wheel set with disc are easily sub 1500. in both clincher and tubular, shout if you need more info.

I race XC and enduro when I can, I ride up proper hills, I’m mechanically able and I can see the benefits but I probably don’t fit into your tight socio-economic definition of what mountain bikers can be unless you have given up on that idea.

Well so do i but i am still running a 2×9 speed set up do I win something?

wow some amazing stuff here folks keep them coming

You do know DT AEL and Sapim CX ray have nothing in common right.

EXM and XMM are the same lower but not sure I’ll double check with workshop tomorrow and the abs is the same regarding of the fork travel

WELL RCZ IS legit and you’ll be taking little chance he’s good (as good as a non LBS can be) and as some good deals on DT
For your fork basically the SS cartidge defines the ravel (hence you have different cartisdge for 100 and 120mm travel)
The EXM will work differently from the TS with respect to the lock out system
This is not true for SSII and OL cartidge.

hummm weird, very wiered altough ti can happen.
And as for changing the travel it’s probably not worth it as you will have to change the SS cartidge and the UCU.

RCZ purchase by any chances?
Best regards

Are they TB or OPM?

By reducing the weight of the spokes, and number of them, you add back in some compliance that you lose,

Although when going from 32 to 28 you generally go from a 3spoke crossing to a 2 spoke crossing, therefore not changing the stifness (plus a 28 spoke rim is stiffer than a 32 one).

Not sure it will work as both the 40 and the 17 teeth will be made for 10 speed, so not the same width as the 9.
FWIW, tiagra road shifter for flat bars work with 9 speed MTB rear mechs

your 9 speed mtb rear mech will work just fine with some 10 speed road bike flat bar shifter.

crap

https://www.flickr.com/photos/24754492@N03/4891414867