Just got the 3R for Christmas, with a view to using it in June at Tweed love enduro, where riding up hill minus the chin guard seems appealing and the event doesn’t demand a DH rated lid.

Wore it the other day at chicksands, and was impressed how light it feels.
I suspect its level of protection isn’t comparable to a true DH lid, but the chin guard must be able to take some abuse.

Some crashes with face plant are just unlucky, I still choose to wear an open lid for 99% of all riding I do. Suspect when I loose some teeth or similar I’ll have a rethink…

Does seem a quality item worth the money in terms of its build.

Having just done this first Rd1 of this series, it was a great event, well run and everyone kept their spirits up despite pretty rough weather over the weekend.

I had gone up saturday with the aim of getting some practice in, instead with the worst of the weekends weather being the Saturday, we saw Deadpool at the cinema – which is surprising good as Marvel films go.

Sunday racing went smoothly, only glitch was friend who entered with me failed to get a time recorded for stage1, judging from the results sheet seems his was the only glitch, which was a shame.

The course, which uses usual bits of the trail centre, held up fine in the wet, however having done some other Enduro’s I prefer the fresh cut trails that are done just for race day and aren’t just taping off existing trails.

I can recommend Madison’s flux water proof jacket – impulse purchase at the centre bike shop – this performed brilliantly and kept me warm in pretty much non stop drizzle/fog on the Sunday.

Due to weather we only re-rode stage2, as this was a short walk back to the start from the finish of this stage (was the shortest stage), otherwise we just did each stage the once, somewhat missing the scope to re-ride stages, but weather dented motivation to stay out. This seemed to be a common view shared when chatting to other riders back at the cafe.

As a late to the thread suggestion…

Trek fuel ex 29er

Just bought one myself, is my 2nd 29er, having previously had the trek stache hardtail (slack, low BB, 120mm fork).

The fuel is really nice, 120mm f&r, handles Xc rides perfectly, but also happy to be jumped/ragged.

2015 model has 1×11, reverb, UST ready wheels, other than swapping for a shorter stem, and dumping the bontrager XR3 tyres, it was ready to go out the box. Have been dead impressed with it. Only complaint press fit BB, but same applies with Spez.

I did look at the camber evo by Spez, but the spez range goes either £2500 jumping up to £4k, where Trek has a lot more in between models to suit more budgets.

The HA feels like it could loose 0.5/1degree, but otherwise its perfect.
The stock bontrager rhythm comp wheels seem pretty solid, proper UST ready (don’t need rim tape), stiff, just a tad lardy.
The trek rear shock with the clever valving works really well, is the best shock I’ve tried (having had a CCDB coil shock before).

I came from a SC blur TRc to this and prefer the trek by far.
My other bike’s a Stanton slackline ti, so its a nice balance against a short ride on the hardtail, or knocking out a decent distance on the 29er.

Hope this helps as food for thought…

I’d make a strong vote for the stanton switchback ti.

I have the slackline ti, is my 2nd ti hardtail, having previously had and adored the Ragley ti.

The stanton frame is really well made (only complaint no bottle mounts), once up to speed it rides superbly, its a fairly stiff ti frame (think cove brand) but it works at speed and starts to make more sense.

I run a 130mm pike on the front, with an external lower headset cup. It will turn its hand to everything, large drops, 4x, Xc duties.

Has a proper threaded BB, 31.8 seat tube for a dropper and 44mm head tube to cover all bases up front.

I’d expect the switchback to be equally brilliant.. its a fun purchase a ti hardtail – do it :-)

I would suggest that anyone who can wheelie has been cracking away at the skill from an early age. Trying to pick up wheelies later in life I would expect is harder, but far from impossible.

Some bikes wheelie better than others (short stems, wide bars help). A fairly light weight bike also helps.

Flat smooth ground helps in early days, throw in bumps and it makes the process of balance that bit harder to control.

I’d suggest try saddle lower than usual to aid knees coming out with are key to balance/steering when on the back wheel.

Al boils down to endless practice.

Would agree with a previous post manuals are much harder than wheelies, or coaster wheelies. The manual you have to lean back into, the wheelie is a pop to get the front up.
I engage the back brake (slightly drag it) from the off.

The perfect wheelie is right on the balance point, so you can stop pedaling regularly and just balance, then add a few more pedal strokes to keep you rolling. I disagree that a wheelie is chasing the balance point just below, that makes a long distance wheelie far too tiring.

Well done on posting a link to this, had missed another Danny Mac film being released.
As always, hypnotic to watch his riding skills and really nicely edited.

What an apocalyptic landscape – tragic.

Drinking from a red bull can – he’s sold his soul :-)

Trek stache 7 owner here.
Best cheap bike ever !

Its got a decent length tt, making it comfortable for all day riding.

Whilst an ali frame, it feels like it has a reasonable level of comfort (suspect using Spez purgatory 2.3″ tyre is real reason for comfort).
Nice angles, have played with setting travel at 140mm & 110mm definately better on the latter for benefit of snappy steering.
Very low bb which gives excellent cornering grip.

Surprisingly quick DH as well.

Bought a Cotic solaris and sold immediately, realising the Trek, as a cheapy option, was just as good.

I do like the look of the titus fireline ti so may swap the trek on the horizon, but for now its excellent.
Built with 1×10 XT groupset, incl brakes, reverb, Hope arch rims, thomson carbon bar, weighs 26lbs 8ozs which seems pretty reasonable.

Mannuals well. Jumps well. Nothing not to like.

I’d endorse loosing the 11t, on the basis that rarely do you want to be in the lowest gear, due to slack in the drive chain as a result.

I have the Hope T rex 40t on both of my mtb bikes and on each tried loosing the 17t cog first, only to find that this upset the ratios and cadance when riding, loosing the 11t feels like you’ve lost nothing at all, as I hardly ever went into the 11t when off road.

Rec. my order of 2 c/o CRC this morning (only gold left).

Will be fitting this weekend – will post next week on how well they work.

Going on a 29er hardtail – trek stache and Santa cruz TRc which with the vpp link has chain growth as suspension compresses.

Have shimano XT and SLX shadow + rear mechs. Am hoping easily to fit/make work…..running 1×10.

Quite agree – I favour the dual track over the 4X as well – the last table top jump before the left hand berm has you hanging for an age – can catch some serious air off that :-)

All this talk of chicksands – will have to skive and visit next week !

I have an Engima eclipse with dura ace group set and Fulcrum 3 wheels.

Is a very comfy ride but still nice and stiff for out of the saddle sprinting. Frame has a lovely finish, nice sloped top tube and good range of sizing. Also has built into a good weight, just a smidge over 18lbs.

Engima are a really friendly bunch to deal with, went in recently for a new carbon seat post and got FOC head tube badge (not out when I bought my frame) & some decals from the boss.

Seen Tom coach lots of times when visiting Chicksands – clearly very committed to helping what ever level of rider is attending progress.
Really friendly bloke, have been tempted to book some myself with him.

Please post again if you do go.

He is one seriously quick rider – raced him on a previous visit – proper handed my arse in my hand on the dual track and think I am 2nd place on Strava for past 2yrs :-)

I’m on my 2nd TRc – 1st one cracked on swingarm around VVP pivot. This being an original black/red & white Mk1 frame. I am now on the MKII frame with bolt through back end in white.

Had a yeti ASR5 before.

I mainly ride in Surrey Hills, so short travel, slack angle, low BB and minimal weight is my preference.

The bike is awesome. Climbs really well with the VPP link putting tension back into the drive chain. The shock comes, as standard, with a fox volume air spacer reducer so the shock ramps up nicely making the 125mm travel feel pretty bottomless.

I run a dropper, 1×10, with Easton haven wheels and weight is around 25.5lbs.

It feels like a bmx (I am 5ft 11 and ride a medium with a 70mm stem), jumps well, is an amazing 4x bike when visiting chicksands.
Think it my fav bike ever – until the next one comes along.

I also ride a 29er, but prefer the flickable nature of the TRc its the easiest bike to manual and its so light you can just bunny hop at will while riding.

This is my job, repairing (major) fire damaged houses for an insurance company.

Unless your buying a large/very large property, £150-200k worth of repairs is a substantial amount of work, your description that flames weren’t coming out of windows, just smoke damage, doesn’t reconcile to the costs being mentioned IMHO.
I’d probe further, but no need to consider the house as having a stigma in anyway, provided you can satisfy yourself it was satisfactorily repaired.
For this type of money, there should be a schedule of works, likely involvement of building control (you could call building control of the local council for this property and enquire what notices were submitted). Ask the vendor for any information you think reasonable to help you make your minds up. They have been sneaky not disclosing this.

This type of spend is more common for when the roof is breached, with repairs of around this cost.
Ask for the certificates, windows would have FENSA 10yr guarantee, boiler would have been certified as would electrics – all of which you could inspect and see what was done.

A big period property eats money when you repair them, what age of construction/size of property are you buying? (to give scope to the repair costs).

Worth also doing internet based enquiries, often large fires will get news coverage and may find details of the fire via this way.

Best of luck, could still work out fine.

I had the ASR5 alloy, with a 140fork.
Using a fox volume spacer in the rp23 can it rode brilliantly. I had a small spacer to ramp up the shock and ran the low speed compression on the 1 (low) setting to tune out the bob that the single pivot design otherwise throws into the mix.
Its a perfect surrey hills bike, nice and light, good for all day riding, decent length top tube (I had a medium and am 5ft 11). I took it off some big drops and the carbon swingarm never caused me any worry.
I upgraded the drop outs from Qr to a bolt through back end – which helps prevent flex and is a must.
I swapped it for a SC blur TRc which is a better bike, albeit largely the same, due to its vpp suspension design resisting bob.
I would have another yeti in a blink of an eye – lovely bike – highly recommend from a serial bike swapper.

Heart warming Vid – is brilliant him giving a backy!

Best of his so far, fresh ideas against the norm. really enjoyed it.

Really friendly people to deal with.
Recently bought their entry level eclipse frame, have been really pleased with it. Did a 74mile sportive few weekends back and rode like a dream, remaining comfy through to the end.

Very good bike builders as well, mine has been spot on since they swapped all parts and added a few new ones, needing no adjustments since.
Nice understated looking frames.
Build weight (if interested) is 18lbs 4ozs with ultegra, thomson finishing kit and fulcrum 3 wheels.

I’ve got a TRc.
I previously had a ASR5.

The TR will be brilliant. I run a 140mm fork on mine.
Does everything from DH duties (surprisingly well) to all day Xc rides and is the best 4x bike I’ve ever taken to chicksands.

Is nice and slack, has very very low BB – pick small pedals and cranks no longer than 170mm otherwise pedal strike is non stop.
Mine is 1×10, light weight kit,dropper post and is just under 26lbs.

Cannot recommend it highly enough – out of a lot of bikes owned and ridden this is my fav by a long way.
The Blur LT isn’t as slack or low and just isn’t as quick.
The TR(&c) has a volume air spacer in the shock as standard so the travel ramps up resisting bottoming, making it always feel like its got more to offer than its 125mm travel.

As another way of viewing this…

You attempt to clean (remove odour) from carpet, you muck up the carpet in someway, shape or form.
Under the terms of most tenancy agreements you then are liable for the damage caused and end up funding intrinsic value of carpet.

Better approach, don’t fear being labeled a moaning tenant, rather your paying good money to cover another parties mortgage, ask, as is reasonable, for agent/landlord to remediate the odour that is present in the carpets.

Best of luck, smell of p155 is rank.

have gone through same thought pattern as OP.
Sold all DSLR now and have tried most of the Panasonic Lumix range.
The original GF1 remains brilliant and almost unbeaten by later models (GF2, 3 and GX1).
I now use a LX7 which for me ticks all boxes. Is pocket size.
Has full control.
Previously I had a GF3 with the 14-40mm powered zoom lens (X type) and this was the only set up I bothered using, so the LX7 seemed the right step to take given I didn’t ever change lens on the GF3.
I also have an older Lumix TZ8 which really is just a cheapy compact and nothing to write home about.
All the lumix range seem well built, easy to use, reliable, decent battery life, can’t fault them. Have heard the Sony RX100 is ever better than the LX7 but I don’t like the Sony menu’s/user function.
You can pick up an LX5 for peanuts now and they aren’t much difference to the LX7.

Sold – Many thanks Alan (sorry for thread hijack).

I am selling one, yours for £35 posted.
Has hardly been used, ti rails remain dead straight, no real signs of any wear and tear.
Super comfy. Have had quite a few over the years, often try alternatives, SDG, Fizik, etc but usually come back to spez. again.
Let me know if you want to take a punt.
Email: jamesparsons@Halifax.co.uk

I would question whether a manual can be taught in a day.
I’d suggest your better trying to crack wheelies first, then move onto coaster wheelies (not pedalling but sitting down wheelies) then think about manuals.
If you can coaster wheelie you’ve, in concept, got a manual covered, other than the method of starting a manual versus a wheelie.

The manual starts without any pull on the bars, moving your weight backwards with straight arms and bent knees and pushing through your feet, then keep it going all through the knees pushing and absorbing the momentum while covering/dragging the back brake for fine control.

I think coaster wheelies, sitting down, while going down hill using the brake for control are the way to start and learn the knack of manuals. Good luck. Takes years of practice rather than 1 day of learning – IMHO.

I’ve had the Nomad for 3 yrs now.
Would echo comments by above by zangolin.
After 3 winters worth of solid use, the washers on the hose connection wore out and failed where it connects the hose to the Nomad unit.
I called Nomad who sent out spares free of charge and couldn’t have been better on customer service.
Its well made, the battery holds a decent length of charge, contains 14litres enough for 2 bikes to get cleaned properly, I use it all the way through winter and it keeps the bikes in better health as the mud is always washed off come the end of a ride.
Highly recommended.

Very poor, appreciate heads up.

Just spotted this post.

Its splitting hairs reflecting on the subtle differences between the ASR5 and the TRc. I originally wanted the TRc and bought the Yeti having considered the 2 very similar in geometry, and design. The OP appears to be having the same considerations I went through, they are similar, why pay more for the TRc when the Yeti is so close.

The yeti has a longer TT on a medium frame size, which went in its favour Vs the TRc.

For me I could never quite get the shock set up right on the Yeti, it needed to be run firmer than ideal in order to tame the bob.

I went to the TRc knowing the VPP link would do a better job of hiding the bob, which having previously owned DW link bikes I knew I liked.

The TRc allows you to run a softer rear shock set up, but not have bob and for me this makes it the better bike, no messing with pro pedal for climbs, the bike is always supple for the trail and will stiffen as I pedal and want the bike to be reactive.

Both are really nicely finished frames, I went with the bolt through axle upgrade for the Yeti which did make a difference and improved its feel through rocky sections.
The TRc with a Qr rear is easily as stiff, if not stiffer.

Both bikes sit low and 170mm cranks are the longest you’d want, I did run 167.5 on the Yeti with good results. Both handle brilliantly, the TRc slightly edges ahead here for me, probably siting a tad lower than the yeti, due to softer set up on the shock and cornerning is what these bikes are all about.

The build weight for mine, including 1×10, 140mm forks and dropper post is 25.5lbs which is great for longer Xc rides. At chicksands its was the best 4x and dual bike I’ve ever taken there, better than a hardtail.

The differences are subtle, the TRc doesn’t blow the ASR5 out the water, far from. But with the benefit of having spent about 10months on the ASR5 and 5months now on the TRc, the latter edges ahead, IMO.

Mine did this, albeit when cleaned it would smell fine, but after 1 ride the funk of my worst arm pit smells would return.

Helly Hansen fabric use to be called Smelly Hansen by my LBS due to it having similar properties.

I cleaned mine then sold it to solve the problem.

I now use an Endura jacket, which whilst not as good does not smell so wins in my book.

Sorry to have no actual factual explanation for the Gore-smelly-arm-pit-syndrome. I suspect I used fabric conditioner when cleaning my Gore jacket which Gore says not to use, suspect something happened as a result.

For me its the pocketable nature of a compact system camera that sells it.
Lugging around a DSLR seems a thing of the past, so much so that I no longer have a DSLR camera.

I’ve stuck with Panasonic, having had the GF1 (brilliant), GF3 (not so hot), G3 – brilliant but bulky with built in view finder and now use the LX7, which is the top end compact Panasonic offer.

I think of the lot a GX1 would currently be my preferred option with the powered zoom to retain the small pocketable nature of having a pancake type lens on the front.

The LX7 doesn’t have touch screen functionality, where as the GF range does, I am missing this on the LX7 but am generally pleased with the shots I am taking with it and love the small size.

How about 133mph, via Sat Nav. speedo with 1 bike on the roof.

The car an unimpressive 120d bmw thrashed from new. Thankfully Thule bike carriers seem up for keeping your bike secure at this speed.

Bikes and track days- seen 178mph on a Fireblade 1000RR speedo on back straight at Snnerton, however suspect over reading speedo and at this speed found my eye balls vibrated making vision tricky.

Am currently making my 1st claim against Parcel Force.

So far has been very poor experience.

We shipped a hifi c/o an ebay sale.

Arrived damaged.

Got buyer to return item and provided refund plus postal costs as reasonable thing to do.

Now claiming from parcel force, who like you we paid for insurance with.

Parcel Force say the enquiry they make is with the receipient to ensure adequate packaging was used and that the item arrived damaged. Should said buyer not co-operate then no claim is processed.

Seems highly unfair, as having provided a full refund if our buyer isn’t public spirited and chooses to take time to co-operate then we cannot proceed with a claim. I have told Parcel Force I have the item, in its original packaging for inspection, but this is not how they work.

Has made me re-think who I would use in future. Bastards.
(am slightly bitter currently so perhaps my view could be balanced out by someone who has managed to extract money from Parcel Force…)!

Enjoyed that too.

I use the Nomad. Mine is just coming up to 3 yrs old.

Has a very useable pressure which does shift just about everything off the bike, either post ride, or even once dried on – using some muc off and a brush for stubborn areas.

Mine has been faultless in always working, what ever the temperature, using having been knocked about in the boot endlessly on way to a ride.

It needed a new rubber O ring which Nomad sent to me, plus spares free of charge – so excellent back up service as well.

I think I am right in saying the Nomad uses a larger capacity battery than most other portable washers, which results in the Nomad having a higher pressure.

Can’t recommend highly enough, is well built and suspect will last many more years.

Just bought them will ride this weekend and post any thoughts on Monday.
Out of the box they look nice, suspect will be very grippy (20 pins per pedal – albeit I have reframed from fitting all the pins at this time).
The surface is very slightly concave which is usually a good thing, plus it had raised fins across the face which should aid grip.

I have a history of trying most bling pedals, Podium Point Ones, DMR vaults (ti axle), Nukeproof Neutrons (ti axle), Canefield Crampons, etc

I am hoping Hope will have done something well protected for UK Winter and with bags of grip. Only complaint not that light, 390grams.

Seem like a large platform – like a DMR vault.

excalibur

I got a medium TRC
I am 5ft 10 on a tall day.
I prefer small bikes so they are more flickable.
FOr me the ASR5 seat tube on the medium was too long (18.5″), I prefer to slam the saddle down when jumping. The TRC medium has a 17″ seat tube versus a 19″ on the large, so was a simply choice.
I run a 65mm stem and use a KS dropper post which is in line and slide the saddle fairly rearward on the rails. The TRC has a steep seat tube angle, so the rearward saddle position hardly notices and you tend to shuffle forward on the saddle when climbing.
I suspect truth be told I would fit a large better, but my medium regularly goes to chicksands and its proving to be an amazing bike there on the dual and 4x track, in fairness, as was the yeti (albeit with too long a seat tube – I did consider, seriously, cutting the seat tube down on the Yeti and then thought better of this idea).
Hope this helps. I suspect up to 5ft 9″ a medium is the right choice, above this go large, unless like me you prefer small bikes.

Is outstanding.
Builds into 26lb build (alloy model) running 1×10 set up, incl dropper post.
Has quite a long TT for the medium (23.4) which allows running a short stem to take advantage of the slack HA and hammer it.
Has very low BB, so pedal strikes are common, suggest running sub 170mm cranks.
Jumps well.
Corners super quick, with handling that has been better any previous bikes I’ve owned.
Only minor complaint is bob when pedalling, trying to dial that out with either firmer air pressure or use of low speed compression damping became the bain of owning a asr5.
I suspect the carbon model would build into a comfortably sub 26lb build.
Is good for all day Xc rides, plus some DH fun, jumping, is very versatile.
I sold mine and got a Blur TRC which is near enough the same, but the VPP link does away with pedal induced bob so for my money is better.

Depends on type of survey you commissioned.
typically you have 3 levels of survey. Mortgage lenders one (Cheapy – with zero come back), mid level survey typically £300-£550 (again usually endless disclaimers and zero comeback).
Full structural survey arranged independently of your lender – cost upwards of £700. This would attach liabilities to the surveyor to record their observations and by exception attract a liability if they failed to spot something that would be reasonable for them to have seen (i.e. it didn’t necessitate disrupting the decor, lifting floor coverings, etc).
An outside retaining wall with a large crack does sound like a clear miss on the part of the surveyor, if you commissioned a full structural survey. I would write to them, putting them on notice of your dis-satisfaction with their survey, specifically pointing out the cracking to this retaining wall, include a photo or 2 with your correspondence. I would then ask for their proposals on how they will make good the situation and see what they come back with.

Hope this helps and hope you didn’t do a cheapy survey….

I’m with Kryton57 on set up.
I run around 30% sag which equates to maximum DH fun.
Latest generation of RP23 shocks allow low speed compression damping before flicking pro pedal on, so I use the 1st setting of low speed damping to eliminate majority of pedal bob.
On road climbs only do I use pro-pedal – but its not often I have to hit tarmac while riding in Surrey Hills.

pinetree – looks good with the lefty!

I had the 1st incarnation of the lefty in about 2000 on a Canondale Super V carbon 100mm Xc bike – really was a cracking fork even back then. The Yeti looks like it suits a Lefty. Very cool choice.