I’ve got a 02 Dispatch (old shape) 2.0L HDI with no issues or rust. The dash is a bit squeaky and it’s a bit filing cabinety but those are my only complaints. I’m getting 43->47mpg, it’s got plenty of poke and drives pretty much like a car.

I read somewhere that you can sleep in the back of them. I thought that was b*****x until just recently I laid down in the back just to see for myself. Anyone under 6′ can sleep no problem.

I’ve had the non-colour coded allen set for ~3years. Used them on my car motorbikes, mtbs. I can’t remember ever rounding out a bolt with them and you can really lean on them. Also, they seem to have a good rust-proofing as i’ve left mine in water often and they look fine still.

I highly recommend their chisel screwdrivers. I bought them knowing I misuse screwdrivers (use them as prybars, chisels, picks, punches). They’re still going strong. Their torx keys are probably on my christmas list.

Prior to it going in i was thinking it needed glow plug as it was takin longer to start – i guess that was my battery dying.

It’s October. Don’t need glow plugs.

I like JB, but he only ever says the same two things.

‘Understeer’ and ‘front tyres’. Drives me mad, you can count to ten during practically any of his interviews before he reels one out.

I’ve not broken a limb (yet) but, like you, the only time i’ve ended up in a big yellow taxi was just pootling along Bush Whacker @ BPW heading to the cafe just after doing Rock’n’Roll. I clipped a pedal in the dip, woke up a few minutes later with a massive headache, a split carbon TLD, and started throwing up. Ended up with 2 cracked ribs and balance/dizzyness issues for ~ 2 months. Thankfully, the Orange Girders Patriot was fine. Just spun bars.

Heal up soon. It happens to all of us at some point.

570ish on my HT. They used to be 610 for ages but I cut them down.

610 on my FS.

Google says an Almax 3 has been cut.

The only thing I’ll never do again is use a cupped wire wheel in one again. Nearly killed me and took months for the scars to heal

Was that a screwfix cupped wire-wheel? I used one in mine (no idea what, got it from metals4u. The hold-switch is a PITA) and at first it seemed so inbalanced I couldn’t hold on the grinder. I had to use the wheel in short bursts and once most of the wire had thrown itself around the garage I could use it more comfortably.

I had one of these shatter on me once.

Ha! Quantocks like a trail centre?! I think you went to the wrong place.

The reason that I think it’s overheating is that even after a 10 minute ride to the shops, I can see `smoke’ leaking from the top of the engine.

If there’s any oil weeping that could be the cause. On my bike the exhaust valve inspection cap leaked a little and oil would smoke once the engine was good an warm. If you see an oil weep around that area I wouldn’t worry to much about it. Note: don’t tighten up any of the 8mm bolts around that section without a torque wrench trying to stop a rocker cover oil-leak.

Here’s how to read a spark plug.

[edit] I’ve just compared the sound of your bike to mine.

If you’re going to hookup a gauge you need an adapter from M14x1.25 (the bolt hole) to 1/8 NPT (or whatever the gauge is).

Are you sure it’s overheating? I’d have no idea if the engine is as there’s no sensor. If it is, lean jetting could be the cause (and explain the lower power). The plug condition would be the 1st step to check jetting.

Is there any easy way to check if oil is being distributed around the engine? I ran the engine very briefly when checking the valve clearances and half expected oil to be thrown around everywhere with the viewing caps off but it looked fairly dry….

Not a lot of oil goes up that way. The cam is supplied by an oil passage surrounding a cylinder stud, the rest of the head is splash lubricated via the chain and remnants of the cam oil. With the caps open I used to get some thrown out by the tappets. If you’ve got an oil-pressure gauge you can plumb it into the port just below & to the front of the oil-filter cover.

My engine was never particularly quiet. Personally, if after doing the tensioner and re-checking the valve gap (whilst cold) i’d just ride it. BTW, if your gap starts closing up, beware! I didn’t clock on to what was happening and the inlet valve stem broke whilst on my way to work years ago. (I used to change gear at valve float 😀 )

I’ve a DR125 (same engine) and the tensioner is below and to the left of the carb. To adjust the tension, undo the lock-nut, loosen the stud running through, nip-up the stud & then the lock-nut (whilst holding the stud still). IIRC you have to do this at TDC, could be wrong, it’s in the haynes.

However, if the guides are worn through to the metal you’ll always get a noise.

Thanks for that guys. I did look except the ones I see look nothing like the ones I have. They have an extended tab on the sides (the part that is mullered) instead of a rounded edge near the bolts on the premium. Do these premiums work like the original cleats?

[edit] Found a pic of the ones I have

Just noticed a few people mentioning XT disc hubs. I’ve just had a rear let go: the cones were forever coming loose, no matter what I did to try and keep them tight.

The cassette-side came loose, the cone wound itself in and jammed the rear wheel going down Dai Hard at BPW. Needless to say, the bearings & cup/cone were ruined.

Michelin Cross Country mud tyres. They were 1/2 price from CRC, it was the middle of winter, I was still on SB8s. I tried the michelins for 2 or 3 rides and went back to the SB8s. I was fed up with the constant washing out and crashes.

Looks like #enduro is off the cards for me.

:rose tinted spectacles:

On the subject of xc courses, my last xc race was the grundig back in Newham Park. Of all the other races I did in the SW Newham was probably the best, what with the river crossings & pipeline. Decoy (albeit short & narrow) was pretty good too. How are the xc courses of today in comparison?

http://www.pearcecycles.co.uk/product_list/202

It used to cost me £45 for bit of practice+3hr race, or £30 for several hours practice. Granted, that was motorbike #enduro.

Follow the link, you can get a full day of uplift for £25. [/quote]

But I’ve got an engine?

As for the non-motorised enduros, my brothers help out every now and then and are paid around x2 the race entry. I’m quite keen on getting in on it tbh, they don’t make it sound like it’s work.

It used to cost me £45 for bit of practice+3hr race, or £30 for several hours practice. Granted, that was motorbike #enduro.

Look ahead for somewhere that looks grippy to turn/brake on, aim for it, let off the brakes (especially on roots) and pray.

But this advice is probably the best.

Keep believing you’re in control

Restrepo & Armadillo are good Afghanistan documentary films.

Of course – perhaps you could park somewhere else and walk in? I did this when I lived in a street with no off-street parking at all. Sometimes I had to walk ooh.. 100m. I managed.

It’d have to be more like 300m considering outside my estate it’s double yellows or pavement-parking everywhere. Maybe I should make the effort, the Air Cadets minibus & car were torched 15meters away from mine last night. Or, you know, not. Seeing as nobody’s wing mirror have been smashed or sides been keyed in the years i’ve lived there.

jonnouk – So it’s ok then to block the pavement and force pedestrians, parents with kids in buggy’s and the disabled on to the road?

Did you read what I wrote? There’s room. It’s not blocked. I’m half-tempted to give a google-view of the road in question but i don’t want people turning up on their valiant steeds with pitchforks in hand.

Terrific idea. 60miles a day would be great endurance training.

In our street, most houses have two cars, and ALL of them have at least a garage and a drive, so they could easily keep two cars off-street. However, they either a) can’t be bothered or b) have converted their garages

From what I’ve seen/experienced most people use garages as a place to keep things they meant to take to the tip or flog. “Out of sight, out of mind.”

Coming at this issue from a different perspective, I’m one of those that park on pavements. No markings on the road but if I were to park in the road no-one could get past (I leave enough room for prams to get by). This is in a newish estate with 1space per house. Seeing as I houseshare with 2 other car owners i’d imagine the a big cause is a lack of options for those wanting a place of their own.

Not mine. Also the racing line is wrong, it’s the racing line when defending the previous corner.

Isn’t the 1.6 HDI a problematic engine?

Something to do with the oil-pickup but the issue is largely negated if the oil+filter has been changed to schedule IIRC.

Those screwfix battery worklights are really bright but not very diffuse so they are not good for detail work in the confined spaces of a garage. Plus, the battery doesn’t last more than 3hrs.

I found it doable to use one of those plus a bike light and a head torch when I worked on my mx bike in a garage.

Surface dressing may or may not be a good solution to a polished surface but the 2 times the council has done it outside my house it’s been s**t.

Both times there has been no signs until halfway along the stretch which meant I rolled on to wet bitumen and filled my tyres the first time. Both times they leave all the loose chippings to pile up in the breaking areas of junctions and on the cycle paths. Mostly I’m pissed off by the fact my van’s windscreen got chipped on the 3rd day I had it by the council’s crap job.

The price of the course varies for the area. I can’t find the letter but it’s a 3year window for eligibility i thought.

Yeah, yeah. Flame away. 36 in a 30 early on a Saturday morning on an quiet a-road.

My 06 Tomac Omen is my AM bike and weighs a smidge under 35lbs. ~4lbs of that is in the Bombers, DH rims, and Raceface chainguide.

I’ve been riding MTB almost 20yrs.

Current lineup:
– 02 Orange Patriot
– 06 Tomac Omen

Any ideas?

@big_scot_nanny

You can get an auto Pug Expert or Cit Dispatch (same as the Scudo).

Just had a quick browse on Autotrader.

😯 followed by 🙁 followed by 🙄

That’ll be the scene tax.

@big_scot_nanny – If the Scudo was ace, why a T5? I’m assuming that’s a new-body, i’ve got the old-type.

I’ve got original eggbeaters (stainless axle) that has never been serviced in the year since I’ve had them. The P.O. used them on his CX/hack bike and never serviced them either for years. Will I die?

Can’t see anything going wrong there.

http://www.en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gaza_flotilla_raid