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Viewing 40 posts - 41 through 80 (of 167 total)
  • Get Paid To Learn To Be An MTB Content Creator
  • jonke
    Free Member

    thats what i received – 1 TS and 1 PS.

    jonke
    Free Member

    Myth number 1:

    ‘Road’ tax goes to the upkeep and maintenance of roads.

    Myth number 2:

    There is such a thing as road tax.

    jonke
    Free Member

    Needs knobbly tyres and a suspension fork.

    jonke
    Free Member

    So i can beat my mates. Its all about the competetive advantage!

    And yes its shiny.

    jonke
    Free Member

    My mate has one of the high end Thules which is nice but I don’t like the grabbers (tech term) that hold the bikes.

    I got one of these instead which quality wise is on a par but has a better grabber and also the whole things slides away from the car on a rail which works really well.

    bike rack clicky

    jonke
    Free Member

    Book directly with goat shed in les arcs if you want something a little cheaper. And they’re lovely people that run it.

    jonke
    Free Member

    Andy has point. And if youre going to have a midlife crises why do things by halves? They have a santa cruz tallboy ltc you can demo then buy.

    jonke
    Free Member

    My mate had 2. First one frame cracked. Got Second one on warranty and after a little while realised the disk brake mount was misaligned when welded to frame. Needless to say he asked and got his money back.

    jonke
    Free Member

    In order to get a figure in MPH I think you need to multiply the amount of gnarr you are shredding by the quantity of steeze exhibited and then divide that by your epicness.
    This is dumb because as your epicness goes up your mph goes down.

    Not at all. Its very simple.epicness is measured In the same way as a volume control on a proper amp as a reverse scale. So the more epic you are the less your gnar is attenuated until you reach 0 and then you are infinitely epic. Which im sure we’ll all agree is the often default position for many of us singletrackers.

    jonke
    Free Member

    I serviced mine with a new bushing and seal from http://www.singletrackbikes.co.uk. Was pretty straight forward. One thing I have noticed is the seals have a habit of becoming unlodged occasionally letting dirt in which obviously kills the bushig & bearing in side pretty quickly – so worth keeping an eye on this.

    jonke
    Free Member

    Replacement bike carrier – £63
    Quote to repair dent in roof of car – £260
    Skiving of friday arvo for a bike ride despite making a **** of myself – priceless

    jonke
    Free Member

    the bike – which has a carbon frame – appears to have come off with just a few scratches. amazing really. I took it for a ride after expecting it to snap from some hidden damage and it was fine.

    it was saved by the thule bike carrier snapping in two i think.

    The bike put a small dent in the roof just above on of the rear doors after the bike fell on to it.

    Still – main thing is the bike is okay 🙂

    jonke
    Free Member

    Took my dad for an uplift day at the FoD just after his 70th and he did fine.

    He also went and attempted the cwmcarn downhill with my downhilling nephew on his halfords carrera fury just before his 70th. To be fair that didn’t end quite so well. Still dead proud of him – i can only hope i have his ‘have a go’ attitude when i get to his age.

    jonke
    Free Member

    Not convinced it made me a better rider. For a while it helped me push limits. I alternate between a full sus bigger bike and a long travel hardtail (that in reality is so capable) ride to ride. Thought process goes something like-

    first week on full sus bike: well i did something last week just a little smaller on the hardtail so this slightly bigger jump/drop/whatever must be make-able with this bike

    following week hard tail: well last week i managed it on the full suss bike and survived so it’ll probably be okay on the hardtail too.

    and repeat.

    That was until I had a couple of recent crashes which has slowed me down somewhat. The crashes were on the ‘forgiving’ big bike.

    That said I would agree with this too so maybe did make me a better rider:

    It makes you get your bum out of the saddle rather than bobble through sections in your comfy armchair as some do on a full sus bike

    jonke
    Free Member

    Was that a nazi salute?

    jonke
    Free Member

    Excessive alcohol consumption = secret sauce

    jonke
    Free Member

    Noisy tunes on ipod = much more likely to crash.

    All I’ve seem to do this year is crash. Spend as much time recuperating as on the bike…

    jonke
    Free Member

    31 for my first. She’s 6 now.

    Numbers 2+3 due in October. Yep. Twins.

    Help!

    jonke
    Free Member
    jonke
    Free Member

    bwarrp – i could disagree with you more re nomads and coil shocks.

    jonke
    Free Member

    Every one of of my bikes is a triggers broom project to get under the wife radar…..

    jonke
    Free Member

    Nomad C
    BOS Deville
    RS Vivid Air
    Hope headset
    Hope seat clamp
    Easton Haven 55mm stem
    Easton Havoc Carbon bars
    Formula The One brakes, 180mm rotors
    RS Reverb
    Charge Knife Ti seat
    Shimano XTR cranks
    Nukeproof Neutron Mag/Ti pedals
    Straitline Silent Guide
    E13 34T chainring
    KMC X10 SL chain
    SRAM XX 11-36 cassette
    Shimano XTR 10spd shifter
    Shimano XTR 10spd rear mech
    DT Swiss 240S hubs, DT TB spokes, Stans Arch EX rims
    DT Swiss 10mm RWS.

    would weigh more but handle better if you put tyres on it.

    jonke
    Free Member

    Chin guard is flimsy and will only protect from branches etc

    My god this is is a well trodden but of ground. So it will protect better than a normal helmet but not as well as a full face. Its just shades of grey. No armour is 100% effective. But the met is probably a pretty good trade off if you can get past the looks.

    I love there are 2 groups of people on here:

    the first group have “get the Five with CCDB, Audi A4 Avant, and elbow pads free with the Parachute” and get mocked for thinking they are dogs nuts.

    The second group just think they are the dogs nuts.

    jonke
    Free Member

    In my experience stick some lightish easy rolling tyres on and just about any bike is usable for XC.

    jonke
    Free Member

    so in summary – they work but you will be a social outcast.

    So simple choice – teeth and no dental bill or singletrack website social acceptance?

    I chose teeth – saved my face a couple of weeks ago when i landed on my face.

    jonke
    Free Member

    It was same with me. The metal hoop that sits above the bearing seems to have abit of a ‘squidge’ in it as its sprung/compresses in as you preload it. It all does up tight and works smoothly for me now.

    jonke
    Free Member

    time your trip with a demo day or tell ’em you want to buy a bike and test ride a couple? They still take a non-refundable deposit and who knows you might actually end up buying one.

    jonke
    Free Member

    hes a witch – burn him!

    jonke
    Free Member

    what’s great is if you re-post this in a weeks time and i guarantee that the majority of the responses from the same people would be different. and in some small way i find that reassuring.

    jonke
    Free Member

    SC nomad (got)
    blue pig x (but in a nicer colour than currently available)
    SC V10 carbon
    a marathon bike (maybe a 29er anthem and i wonder what a orange gyro would be like)

    jonke
    Free Member

    blue pig x feels lighter and more responsive due to less cash in your wallet.

    jonke
    Free Member

    which tyres? i’ll make a point of not buying some.

    jonke
    Free Member

    I sold my Five on the basis I preferred my blue pig!

    jonke
    Free Member

    bike shop it is then!

    jonke
    Free Member

    As long as you don’t invert your forks as per the video, all you will need is a dribble in each leg on reassembly.
    If you invert, dependant om fork, you will lose considerable oil volume….

    Yeah. Just discovered that!!!

    jonke
    Free Member

    bigyinn – the mojo cheat sheet i have in front of me contradicts that.

    According to this you soak the foam seals in float fluid before replacing.

    Then when you slide the legs back on, ‘Ideally using a syringe, with 5ml of fox suspension fluid (NOT FLOAT FLUID) in each leg through the bottom of the fork’.
    ^^^^^^ It actually says that.

    jonke
    Free Member

    These ones:

    67) 2010-2012 36 FLOAT 160, 130 & 100
    (O/B R damper)

    All done – was pretty straight forward although I had the wrong crush washer for the 10mm side so I’m guessing I’ll need to check that for leaks.

    Also the wiper seal on that side was bone dry – so i’m wondering if it was leaking already…..

    jonke
    Free Member

    Yeah – well actually thats whats confusing me. So for my 2011 Float R’s it says damper side 155ml / spring side 30ml.

    And on the mojo ‘how to guide’ it says just to top up with 5ml in each leg….

    jonke
    Free Member

    For the benefit of anyone searching on this in the future, the response I had from Ragley is that the crash replacement policy is no longer in place. Shame 🙁

    jonke
    Free Member

    Can act like almost completely different tyres. It’s all in the compounds used and the weight of the tyre.

    I’m loving my triple compound evo Scwalbes at the moment after years of hating Scwalbes – the trailstar/pacestar compounds options makes a huge difference.

    http://www.bikediscount.com has cheap nobby nics for €30 a tyre for the evo/pacestar tubeless ready version at the moment (tho you do have to pay postage too)

Viewing 40 posts - 41 through 80 (of 167 total)