“Seems a lot of people suffering angst about Sportives really want them to be an Audax.
What I wonder though is why we don’t see many Audax style MTB events, big off road loop with the odd check point (or GPX validation), some of the bike-packing style events (HTR/Capital Trail etc.) seem to do this but not much in the way of single day rides.”

Not exactly the same – but I did quite a few Trailbreak mtb orienteering events back in the late 90s/early 00s, which were around the Reading/SE area. Can’t remember the cost but didn’t feel expensive (unlike many sportives), typically run out of a church hall, no stupid freebies (shirts, bottles, energy food, medals) – just a laminated map sheet per person, timing was simply being checked out/in through the start/finish line. Evening events (1.5 hrs iirc) were a sprint, 3.5 and 5 hr day events could actually cover quite a big area, road/bridleway according to whetever route you choose between (unmanned) checkpoints (which you’d marked up yourself). Ok, not much tricky singletrack, but having done a few large 24hr events in the 00s there was precious little on one of those :/

ISTR kinda got killed off in part by the rise of spoonfed prerouted enduros, but I guess it depends on what sort of riding you prefer. Tbh I don’t do much mtbing nowadays cos of a knackered neck but lurk here occasionally, most ridings now on road on recumbents).

Re what type of proofer to use, at a bike show a few years ago I quizzed one of the bods on the nikwax stand.

Wash-in is fine for fabrics that don’t need/work by wicking – so on a pile+pertex (eg buffalo, montane) you use spray-on on the top surface, if you used wash-in you’d completely mess up their operation.

Standard wash-in/spray-on vs soft-shell – the soft-shell is intended for softer fabrics, the standard stuff for the ‘harder’ kind of fabrics – IIRC the point is how long it’s retained on the fabric, so soft-shell might last a bit longer on a more soft/pliable fabric.

That said, my Paramo, as intended by the manufacturers, just uses the non-softshell wash-in, and is still pretty pliable as fabrics go.

Another vote for K A Stroud -the content’s presented simply but with inline examples which help drum it into one’s grey matter. Annoyingly the later revised editions are a bit cumbersome – not that the originals from the 80s were thin, but at least a smaller format that’d fit in a rucsac.

The point about quantitative measurements is that they are absolute (measurement uncertainties aside) – in this case he’s used a standard reference test CD which should give an expected response. Electronic design isn’t a matter of guessing some component values and soldering the lot together, it’s a combination of design (and possibly simulation), test/measurement (loop till done). Quantitative measurements are part of that and will tell you in far more detail what the system is doing than a pair of ears can – which is exactly what he’s appeared to do. Yeah, his comparative testing may be a little cursory but what he appears to be saying is ‘it sounds fine and the detailed measurements back that up.’ A poorer design would show up all sorts of nasties in measurement yet a subjective audio test might not detect them, and far less so identify the possible problem(s).

Ecover non-bio normally, but halo if something’s particularly sweaty – I can turn a t-shirt horrendously stinky in 5mins flat esp. if I’m a bit stressed, halo seems to sort it. And no, it’s not just soapflakes, there’s something a bit more active but it doesn’t mess with water-repellent coatings

The video , tho interesting, relates more to a riderless bike. Front-end geometry has an effect on how steering input works, but bikes have been built with gyroscopic forces negated (counter-rotating wheels/mass) and 90 degree head angle /zero trail/rake and they’re all rideable. The geometry of upright bikes is as much to allow the rider to reach bars/not clip wheels. There’s a bit more variation with recumbents because hands/feet are in different locations, tho they often use similar geometry – but some have a v steep head angle with reversed forks.

Mike Burrows Ratracer:
http://www.advancedvelodesign.com/ratracersl/ratracersl-recumbent-bike-index.php

IIRC Tony Foale – centre hub steering blokey -and later Burrows have done a lot of work /experimentation on the subject.

At the risk of pointing out the obvious, most of the focus above seems to be on the look of the two mapping options. However the BIG issue (as mentioned by a one or two posters) is completeness of map data, which is VERY dependant on users updating/adding to it. Njee’s example is all very well, but it’s a well-trampled area, so it’s not surprising if it’s comparable in terms of accuracy.

I’ve used OSM maps whilst on hols in Europe or walking in the surrey hills, and generally they’ve been pretty decent – but when walking/scrambling in Snowdonia, the mapping is far more patchy compared to OS, I wouldn’t rely on it in that situation without a proper OS map (paper or otherwise). However, that was a year or two ago, and there may well have been updates.

Mtbing aside:
One other issue according to users (inc audax) on one other forum is routing funnies, not IME, and equally I’ve had my E30 crash on a City Navigator postcode search. Facilities/POI completeness can be rather variable but improving…

As an example of OSM patchiness- a large prominent pub at one end of Teddington high st (so not exactly in the sticks) isnt on the download I grabbed a few years ago, but is shown now with some accuracy online.

I guess the thing is, check OSM for the areas you’re mtbing over wrt OS; check/update your OSM install regularly; feedback missing data.
Oh, and there’s a funding phase over on the OSM site at the mo’ – they’ve reached what they wanted for new servers, but I daresay they won’t complain about additional funds 🙂

City Navigator’s aimed at on-road/urban use, not really the aim of Garmin’s OS offering.
edit : there’s nothing to stop you having several maps on your garmin (at least, easier on newer models) and enabling/disabling maps according to requirements. Tricky bit is can be identifying them, several countries I have on OSM don’t have unique names in the map select menu.

Err..as far as the film ‘Thunderbirds are go’, Gerry Anderson’s words were ‘…it was the biggest load of crap I have ever seen in my life’

Another E30 user here – I normally use openstreetmap, good thing is you get some, tho patchy, offroad stuff (unlike city navigator) so its often handy when walking.
re mounts -the genuine garmin mounts work well, cheaper copies not so much from what I gather.
There’s some handy setup stuff for new and old models on aukadia.net , the author often posts on yacf, and there’s several threads about ’em there too.

The clue is having the right instructor..IME yoga focusses on flexibility, whereas pilates is core strength with flexibility – plus our Pilates instructor mixes it up and is a bit of a taskmaster. If you find it’s too easy either you’re not doing it correctly or you need a different instructor. The handful of yoga sessions I’ve done with a few instructors, in the 15(?) I’ve being doing pilates have been stretchy but not exactly taxing…ymmv.

Bear in mind pilates was devised as a rehabilation method – a good proportion of the class I’m in arrived with, or have chronic, back problems.

Oh, and wheelnv.co.uk in Kent seems to be Cattrike dealers.

One of the better-known manufacturers -ICE – are in Falmouth, probably worth looking at their dealer list for the nearest – if you caught any of thr Invictus games, the Brits were riding them..there’s several models for differing requirements. One dealer is Dtek – Ely nr Cambridge – has a large number of various 2/3 wheelers s/h too. Bikefix in London are also a dealer, and London Recumbents in Dulwich Park (S London) do Hase trikes. I think Rob Hague wrhpv.com (Derbyshire) is a Greenspeed dealer. Laid-back recumbents in Edinburgh stock ICE and Hase. There’s also Kinetics in Glasgow, dunno offhand what they do.

Must admit I hadnt’ been to the Bree Louise til relatively recently and the beer was pretty decent – and a good choice.

A few craft beer alternatives to the Euston Tap – Holborn Whippet, just around the corner from Holborn tube, Craft Beer company, about 5 mins north of Chancery Lane tube (tho’ rather IPA-heavy on the handpulls last time I was there).

Princess Louise is a nice Sam Smiths boozer with lots of tilework and reinstated wood/glass petitions – again, near Holborn tube.

Market Porter opposite Borough Market always has a good choice of beer, tho’ a bit further from Euston.

Re Harp – great pub, tends to get particularly busy just before/after theatre show times, so worth trying to time yerself accordingly.

Nicholsons pubs are pretty decent – sausage/mash/pie kinda stuff tho’ is seems to vary between pubs
http://www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk/
– probably had the best pub pie I’ve ever had in their Dog&Duck in Soho a year or two ago (but they could have changed the menu)
http://www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk/thedogandducksoholondon/

The Royal Oak, nearish Borough Tube is a bit further still, is Harveys, and certainly used to do outstanding grub (inc proper steak+kidney puddings) – I haven’t been there for a few years tho’
http://www.harveys.org.uk/pubs-tenancies/find-our-beer/the-royal-oak-london
http://www.timeout.com/london/bars-and-pubs/royal-oak

Oh, and the Clachan nr Liberty, and nearby Youngs’ Windmill, just off Regents St are pretty decent – latter certainly does food:
http://www.windmillmayfair.co.uk/

As a VW alternative, there’s the Caddy Maxi – if you want a second row of seats, the Kombi or Window van, if you want 3 rows (7 seats) the Maxi Life – rear bench is removable, middle seats are 2+1, both fold. I think you need 2011 or later to get a removeable middle row – mine’s 2012. Various enterprising souls on the caddy2k forum have added a second row to a standard maxi van, but that doesn’t get you around the commercial limit (likewise a kombi *conversion* of a t4/t5 still has the commercial speed limit)

Think I’m getting 520-550 miles to £80 of diesel (tho’ more of that is fast aroad), that’s on the little 1.6tdi. Might benefit from being lowered a little, Maxi Life seems to ride somewhat higher than the bog standard maxis.

Main downside with the i800 AFAIA is you need to unbolt the seats, whereas the Maxi (and a factory/decent T* conversion they ought to come out easily) – it’s midway between a SWB and LWB transporter by comparison.

There’s a fair bit of discussion on the brick-yard forum about t5 fragility/issues, dunno how the lot on the t4/5forum find it.

Curiously I have the leather strap from one – probably picked up in Brick Lane market in the late 80s/early 90s – unfortunately not the rest of it !

About ’86 I bought a s/h bass from a bloke in Brum (where I both lived and studied) – subject to some degree of hacking-about as part of someone’s uni project to put some solenoids in it, to strike the strings – the seller had suffered a stroke and his right hand wasn’t working very well.
“this is what I’ve replaced it with” – and he opened up a case with a synthaxe inside. Probably about 7-10k£ at the time – I think as a relatively well-paid apprentice in BT at the time I was on about £7k pa.

Link on the synthaxe wiki page :
http://www.alendi.co.uk/synthaxe.html

I can’t help wondering if it was about 30years to early – the electronics side of things would be relatively cheap to do now, but the neck would still probably be relatively expensive – it consisted of segmented frets, and piezo sensors on the strings detected string bending:
http://patents.justia.com/assignee/synthaxe-limited
Interestingly this patent (maybe the rest) seems to have lapsed (see bottom:
http://www.google.co.uk/patents/US4726275

>Basically, if it’s a cold day you wear a winter jacket

Rather depends on how hot you run, how hard you’re working, and what you’re wearing underneath. In slushy/near freezing conditions a winter or two ago I was fine in short sleeve gabba + nanoflex warmers/shorts – actually a bit hot ‘cos I was late for a lunch and hurrying 😉 – but I was wearing a pretty thick Northwave SS thermal http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/northwave-body-fit-short-sleeve-jersey/rp-prod85356 (eek, didn’t pay that for it !)

Wore the same thing last w/e – at mebbe 8-9 degrees – on a easier-going moving ave road ride of about 14 mph, expecting to be a bit hot, and I was fine, with occasional jersey unzipping to regulate heat.

Re sizing – I’ve got the large, and I’m about 5’9, 39″ chest, 32ish waist – in castelli sizing: med shorts, large jersey.

I *might* also run a little hotter than some ‘cos I’m one of those funny people riding a recumbent, so my back doesn’t get much windchill.

IMO it’s as much a case of availability as cost – in the event of low reservoirs and a hose pipe ban (connected to the mains) it gets you out of trouble, unless you want to be watering everything using watering cans, which is the alternative.

Ah – thanks, sounds like the details haven’t been sent out yet.

Euston> Stratford’s not too bad, and particularly at that time on a sunday morning. In any case, overground trains might be an issue depending on your start time – I’m in N Surrey on the Waterloo mainline through Surbiton, and the earliest I can get to Waterloo is 7:30 with a 6:50 train 😮 An extra 25 miles across town s a bit more than I’d like to add !

>From what I can gather there will be transport to take riders and their bikes part of the way to the start from London

Do you have any more detail on that? I’ve got a late-released entry which I still have to register for (by/on the 13th) so haven’t received any update mails. I mailed wiggle events yesterday about what the deal is, but have heard no reply so far. They mention park+rides in their FAQ – including one halfway round – but it’d be a bit pointless if it was park-and-ride-yer-bike. There’s also the minor point that I might be riding a recumbent – knees and Leith Hill permitting – and that could depend on how they’re ferrying bikes since it’s a bit long.

>The idea that the whole peloton was cheating in 99 is false. Lots of the Tour 99 B samples that were retrospectively tested for EPO came up negative. Lance’s six positives were a large part of the small proportion of positives.

Just in case it’s not been posted already – more detail here:
http://velocitynation.com/content/interviews/2009/michael-ashenden

There’s a little bit of info here:
http://forums.groundspeak.com/GC/index.php?showtopic=282370&st=50

and elsewhere in the same forum.
Also the gps bit of the yacf forum – there’s a few threads.
Plus http://www.aukadia.net/gps/
– see the second second down about the ‘page’ key.

(The vista/legend hcx seem to be the default device for audaxing – I suspect the trip computer is probably similar, tho’ probably doesn’t allow for different bikes)

Don’t think the mapping source really changes – you still need to either buy them from garmin or use openstreetmaps in some form (see last link)

I can’t quite make my mind up between the larger oregon or the etrex 30 (ie for hrm support) – tho’ even the hcx is tempting at ~120 for a remanufactured unit with normal warranty..
HTH

For the extra 15k on that mileage for a diesel I’d probably go for the younger one if the bodywork’s the same (tho’ more motorway miles might mean more stone chips). FWIW our ’02 A4 Avant’s just passed the 180k mark and is running fine (touch wood) – it was the GF’s company car and did ~120 mostly motorway miles daily up to 145k – we bought it when she was made redundant. So far: servicing, a recent cambelt change, as few corrosion related issues re number plate/fog lights, and some bushings. All at the ‘consumables’ level I guess.

If it was nearer the 60k mark that might be more of an issue, since that’d be due a cambelt…depends on how much mileage you expect to do in the nearish future I guess.

I think franki’s got it about right – I was doing the trailbreak events in the late 90’s/early 00’s and there seemed quite a mix of people doing it – if you went mtbing then it was mostly looking for likely bridleways and riding them. As someone I think’s mentioned, anyone doing cyclocross might be interested – possibly some roadies, given that it’s generally less technical, too.

The ‘I can’t imagine…’, closed mind attitude is a bit sad but I guess that’s the biking equivalent of drinking lager 😉 I guess you’ll always get people minding up their mind from a position of ignorance (as in lack of knowledge). I’ve ridden regularly in Swinley (with bobmbc or otherwise) and did a lot of the Welsh trailcentres some years ago (camping over a very cold week in december :o), and the TQ events were some of the most enjoyable riding I’ve dome..come to think about it, that was why I bought my first lot of Lumicycles. I partly stopped ‘cos my TQ partner moved away, tho’ I did some of the short (1.5 hr) summer event events solo…. but the next time I thought about them trailbreak had stopped doing them.
The combination of not running a car for some years (tho’ swinley’s relatively near), and losing my mtb mojo (such as it was- being concerned over twisting about twisting a dodgy knee…and crappy neck, for that matter) I’ve largely given up mtbing for road-riding on a recumbent – I really can’t be bothered to get over to swinley for the same old stuff. So to that extent I *can* imagine doing TQs again – whoever posted the trailtrax link – thanks, that might get me out 😉

>Masonry bees, get an exterminator in they are no good to anyone.

You sure? doesn’t sound like them from this – one clue being they’re solitary:

http://www.chelmsford.gov.uk/index.cfm?articleid=13990

or this

http://www.east-northamptonshire.gov.uk/site/scripts/documents_info.aspx?documentID=270&pageNumber=3

>Just block the chimney with a cushion and they’ll exit via the top?

You can buy inflatable balloon-kinda things for stopping hot air from the room disappearing up the chimney – that might well do the job.

>And how is that fair!

Because if you’d said to the liberal/labour/green voters ‘sorry, you can only vote tory or labour’ they’d have voted labour anyway because that’s the second preference they’d taken.

What it means is that people are freer to vote honestly first for the party they *actually* want, whereas currently they vote for who’s more likely to keep out the party they don’t want in, which is not the same thing at all.

Looks at it another way, in that example 60% *didn’t* want the tories but had a second preference of labour but in the existing system the tories would have got in. That’s the problem with the current system – the winning party may have the largest single block of the votes cast, but it’s actually minority of the total votes cast.

FWIW – they not infrequently have an ‘EXTRAUK10′ voucher code which you’ll hear via the weekly mailing, so if you miss one 10% period it’s not generally that long ’til the next one 🙂
I’ve have some pretty good buys in the past c/o some of their clearances, but it’s (unsurprisingly) pot luck ‘cos it’s often the larger/smaller sizes left.

A basic version of the alignment check tool is only something like about 15 quid or so (I bought one about a year ago) – but a bike shop ought* to have more practice at bending hangers back.

*or possibly not, since a lot of bikes now sold are ally and they’d probably just chuck a new hanger on…

Ok, I lied – 20 quid from wiggle:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/cyclus-gear-hanger-alignment-tool

Must admit I still haven’t got around to lobbing the lot together yet – having measured the voltages on them I’ve since mixed ’em up, and the all-singing/dancing lab psu have been tied up elsewhere.

I bought a pair of the 830mA drivers, so fingers crossed – p’raps I ought to see if I can get some sort of heat-sinking between the controller and can, but it’s bound to be fiddly..

Interesting that the 980’s failed – I’ve also bought a bflex (well, b2flex as it is now) to use as commuting light, I was thinking of setting the upper limit as 1A, and that’s got me wondering. But it does have a settable overtemperature detect onboard, admittedly that’s on the controller board but at least it’ll be vaguely indicative of the temperature inside the can.

One thing to keep an eye on with hospitals/staff – judging by both my stepfather and an aunt – is that re meals, if the patients don’t feel like eating and aren’t compelled or aided to eat, the food’s taken away, uneaten. Certainly in my stepfather’s case he lost a lot of weight in the several months he was there after breaking a hip. He’d already lost interest in doing things to a degree and had parkinsons, but the stay in hospital really put him on a slippery slope IMO.

There’s a free version of malwarebyes too – I think the main missing thing is memory scanning. Another worth a try is superantispyware – that seemed to detect some stuff that malwarebytes didn’t when I got my work pc infected recently.

Still seemed to be slow afterwards – wound up getting the OS reinstalled, tho’ it was well overdue anyway.

You have my sympathy.

Our boiler sprang a leak about 8 weeks ago. Heating company had various attempts at it before getting the manufacturers in (ie with a van of spares onboard), *possibly* fixed but the rest of the system’s gummed up – powerflush and filter fitted this week.
Hopefully it’ll be sorted, but it wouldn’t surprise me if we’ll be due another round with the manufacturer.

We’ve been relying on fan heaters etc and nipping down the gym for a shower all that time 🙁

The (Topfield) PVR also died a month or so ago – I was gonna open it up over Christmas and replace some components in the power supply (known problem after about 4-5 years) – didn’t get around to it 🙁 Repaired the supply but something’s still goosed.
Still, we’ve now got a shiney new humax which is really quite good (at a price..) – we watch very little when it’s actually broadcast..

About a 2 weeks ago one of the drives in the home pc looked like it’d crashed. Fiddled around, swapped the power connector – it’s back again..so I’m a bit suspicious. Already had a spare drive – well overdue a reinstall of XP – then found the DVD drive was knackered too ! I’ve replaced the DVD drive (at least that was cheap !), just the HDD to go (and probably buy a NAS box at some point, since the spare removeable drive’s groaning..)

There’s also a dark patch of plaster behind the washing machine – there *was* a slight leak a while back wrt the washer hose and a neighbouring washbasic, that’s now sorted but its still looks dark.
If it *is* damp I’m blowed if I know where it’s coming from.

Oh, and we wound up having to splash out on a new flat room on a building in the garden towards the end of last year – that was a week’s worth of builders time.

Excellent – thanks Rusty, I’ll get ordering the controllers 🙂

*bump*

anyone ?

Holy thread resurrection, Batman…

having received three slugsworth of photon goodness (thanks Troutie!) I’m vascillating over how hard to drive ’em.
One narrow is relatively straightforward, and is gonna get a b(2)flex, on account of it’ll be one of two commute lights on the front of my recumbent…more flexibility/runtime is better (albeit at ~17 quid more than a bct driver) – and low volt detect is v. handy ‘cos it’ll be past my feet, where I won’t see it dimming under street lighting..

If I were to use the other two together – wide and narrow (probably wide on the bars)- what are relatively sensible drives for each? eg would running both at 830mA work ok, without one swamping the other, or would an 830/670 or 980/830 combinations be better? – I’d guess with the wide being at the higher drive ?

BTW – in case anyone’s curious about led voltages, I’ve checked out each on a bench power supply at 0.8A
wide : 8.8v
narrow1 : 9.4v
narrow2 : 9.6v

Err..kinda, but not quite.

The driver will try to drive current (ie 1A) at whatever voltage is necessary to drive that current (within it’s designed operation). So what you’re trying to do is dump the excess current (ie 300mA) through the resistor at whatever the controller winds up driving the leds at.

The drop across the leds is going to be something like 3-3.5V each (varies manufacture, current through them, temperature) so your resistor needs to sink 300mA with about 6-7V across it.

The worse case you need to work out is when the led drop is *low* – then if it happens to be high, the resistor will just sink relatively more current.
That’s 1.8W in a 20 ohm resistor – that’s gonna get a bit warm (and you might need to use a 5w rather than 2w to give a bit more margin).

You do realise you can buy a 350mA driver from BCT (see assorted lumi/led threads) for about 6 quid…

Heat guns are fine used carefully, but you have to be careful not to singe the wood underneath on a higher heat. I’d be inclined to use nitromors + wirewool (or green washing up scrubbies/scotbrite pads) ‘cos although it’s messy you’re not likely to screw up the woo underneath.

Depending on the wood underneath/finish you want, metal scrapers may or may not be a good idea. On anything (eg furniture) where you want to damage it the least, old credit cards are ideal ‘cos they’re firm enough to remove the nitromors, but typically soft enough to not score the wood.

I know it’s not relevant in this case, but anyone thinking of getting things dipped – seemed to be the trend for doors some years ago – don’t ! – there’s huge scope for absolutely ruining them. Pretty sure that’s what happened to the doors in our place at some point, and I’ve seen some absolutely knackered ones at some architectural salvage places.

>In my day, wheels were big, trucks were narrow and decks were home made!

My first vaguely proper board was a ‘4 vouchers from hovis loaves + £3’ thing (prior to that it was a single clay wheel skate separated over two ends of some floorboard timber). Next I replaced the (smallish) wheels with blue krytonic seconds (I think they were something like £16 or £20 circa ’77 !) – istr they were about 65mm, and the larger ones were 75mm or so – so at the larger end of things..
Shortly followed by some ACS580 trucks – relatively wide, apart from slalom trucks.
Finally, a homemade deck which was an old ply cupboard door. Last time I used it for any distance was in about ’89 – after a day’s diy on my OH’s flat I’d scoot down to the local kebab shop for supper. It’s in the workshop at the bottom of the garden and still rideable after..err..32 years. Think I might need to learn how to foot drag, I never could, don’t think my knees would take jumping off at any kind of speed now !

and when it gets freezing:

http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/the-ice-beard-thread

(I’m the one without the wet nose…well, black nose..)

One of the comments on the link:
>Getting your dads bike isn’t like getting his war medals, or a photo of him as a child, or something of that nature. It’s something? he would of spent many of some of his most happy, free and peaceful hours of his life on. There are moments when riding when you have no cares in the world and couldn’t wish to feel more happy. It’s an amazing feeling. And to have the bike your dad enjoyed those moments on, to enjoy yourself is a truly beautiful thing. Thanks for sharing.

I know exactly what he means – but sadly I can’t say the same.
My dad bought a (IIRC) 1937 500c Matchless – girder forks, rigid rear end, pillion was a loaf-shaped seat on the mudguard. He rode it for years, he and my mother went round a lot of the coast on it – probably last ridden in the late 50’s or early 60’s. I mostly remember it as rusting with the remains of a tarpaulin over it – I used to sit on it occasionally – and I can remember it being karted off in the back of a truck – whether it went for scrap I dunno.
Even my mother doesn’t know why he got rid of it – she thinks mebbe he was worried I’d hurt my self clambering over it – I think perhaps it was when he was ill and on his last legs (I was about 8). She’s still got the M’s of each side of the tank…it’s the one thing of his I really wish I had 🙁

Mebbe worth adding – building regs aren’t (AFAIA) retrospective, so what they require now re a new build/renovation may well be different to when the doorway was built.