Flaperon, thanks but its not. Its a MTB brake cleaner from Evans Cycles.

joemmo thank you.

That’s some great info. Makes me question if it could be BOOST compatible then, as the spider isn’t interchangeable. The chainring is, but surely it needs to be moved outboard 3mm and not in (with some sort of spacers). Or am I wrong there too?

Renthal do neoprene in a couple of sizes. Perhaps that might fit?

antares I did just turn the tyre yesterday, but I must have damaged/lifted the tape (the fit between the tyre and rim is very, very snug) or perhaps even put the valve in too tight (I tightened it when I turned the tyre—thought it would make a better seal).

Upshot is that it was leaking air badly through the nipple holes so air must have been leaking into the cavity. it was completely deflated this morning so I thought I’d just start afresh.

vincienup I just rinsed it off. I was only using a sponge and washing up liquid anyway so I don’t expect that would have harmed it. I’ll spray some disc brake cleaner on it when I’m finally done.

Haha mashr, I like your straight talking attitude! Thanks

I have Hope Tech Enduro rims, and first attempt with a track pump the tyre seated perfectly! I just went and put the tyre on the wrong way around!!

I have a WTB Ranger tyre if you’re wondering what the combo was.

@lustyd that works out at just shy of 40psi.

I think I’ll start at 30 and go from there. Maybe even 35psi at the rear and 30psi up front. Then ply around with that.

Cheers!

Cheers, BadlyWiredDog.

I understand, but even a starting suggestion would help. Having heard ranges from less than 20psi to over 55psi and the fact I’m going from tubed to tubeless it would be good to have a suggestion or two to start with.

Thanks though!

Thanks for all the help, the suggestions (especially the low tack masking tape worked a treat. Not the easiest job to get them perfect but it only really took about an hour tops. Cheers!

Ah, sorry zilog6128 you said about the decal too — didn’t realise a chinagraph was a fancy crayon!

Graphite pencil would be fine on the fork legs/lowers though too — and perhaps more accurate?!

Thanks zilog6128. I don’t have any reference points on the decal itself though. Pencil is a great shout on the fork lowers though as that would rub right off and is quite fine.

What could I mark a guide line on the vinyl itself with though?

Thanks to both suggestions!

I’ve thought about drawing a line with chalk or crayon on the clean fork legs to mark the centre line. The. Using electrical tape to mark along that line to the point where the decals are to start and finish I could then clean off the chalk or crayon between the two points.

Then drawing the same center line down the decal guided my the markers already on the outside of the perforation I could neatly line the sticker up.

After I just remove all the tape and clean off the crayon on the forks and the decals — which hopefully won’t have marked them?!

Any tips or alternatives on that?

Cheers!

Thank you everyone for your input!

I will probably go with the consensus that is SLX. I think sofaboy73‘s point in particular — about the feel being different — is very valid.

Let’s face it, I think SLX would be considerably better than the bottom end BR-M355 Altus stock discs.

While I’d enjoy knowing I’ve got the power I’m not sure I’d be pushing enough to use it all. And I certainly wouldn’t want to go over the bars accidentally either!! The SLX leavers with the adjustment knobs look slick ;-)

For cost savings I’ll go with standard rotors too.

Now, I can max go to 10spd without changing my rear hub/wheel…

A Zee crankset is cheaper than SLX — looks a load better IMO — and comes with the Hollowtech II BB which I’d need to boot!

But.. should I match it with a Zee shifter and derailleur (SLX 10spd cassette) or go SLX there too? Not looked into the cost implications of this yet but I think Zee is a little cheaper on CRC.