Spesh BG sport.Great shoes,perfect fit.

Is the oil coming from the valve,or shaft nut/interface with the lowers.

Oil lost via the -ve valve itself comes from within the air chamber not the lower legs.Oil in the air chamber is to lubricate and maintain the air chamber o rings.To top up,depressurise forks,remove air chamber top cap on ns of forks with 24mm socket,and add up to 5ml of 15wt oil.
Alternative method is to remove valve core and inject some in with a syringe.If adding a little into -ve,make sure bike/fork is inverted……!

Contrary to the opinion that manufacturers weights are hopefully optimistic thats not true of all components.In my experience,Schwalbe tyres have been to the quoted weight to the nearest 5g,Shimano weights are noramlly pretty accurate too.

My RS Reba forks were only 5 g over what RS claim.

Wheels however seem never to be light as I think/want them to be,must be the weight of stuff like rim tape and spoke nipples I forget……..

Saddles though,in my experience do tend to be lardier than advertised.

Agree weight off tyres and wheels is noticeable,other components less so,but if you think of all the individual components that make up a bike and the cumulative effect of all those 10g savings it begins to add up.

When doing a spread sheet tally I wonder how many people forget cables,hoses,rotor bolts,fluids,little bits like their computer,bottle cage mounts,etc?

Very often these add up to 1lb.

Quoted weights tend to forget pedals too.Thats another 1/2 to 1 lb……….

I recently took apart my Rebas,which had probably done 1500miles before they were serviced.The internals, were still in very good shape,the stantion seals were in good nick too.I put this down to my cleaning regime,which sees me clean the stanchions down after every ride,and periodically putting some teflon lube/fork specific grease around the seals.Pump the forks up and down,then dry off the excess,with a clean cloth.

Servicing lowers is dead easy,though you will need to assemble yourself some tools,10mm socket,spannner,rubber faced mallet,big syringe,etc and 15wt oil.

Brilliant!

Cheers for your advice chaps.
Now wondering whether to go for the XC120,which may be a bit more versatile and similarly light………….

1%.With 3 young kids and a big mortgage,its amazing that I get to spend anything at all………

Yes little bit of oil (5ml)in the chambers.
Think I`ll just fit the new o rings and see how I go.

It didn`t drop by so much previously,and fork seems to extend a little when left……..

I did mine myself.Its actually quite straightforward.

Did someone mention that these are single use now?
So probably best to get the donator to pm the recipient so sneaky folk don`tget to use them first.

Just stuck the lower neg valve in a bowl of water and no bubbles so thinking it must be a misplaced o ring in the negative air chamber.

Oh well,I think I`ll be able to dismantle forks blindfolded by the time I finish.

Or I might live with pumping a bit of air in for now and just ride………

I have been using XT DCL levers for 2 years now.I have been contemplating upgrading my brakes which would mean,losing the dcl levers,but not sure if I want to change back to rapidfire.

I find them totally intuitive,especially when used with a rapid rise rear mech.

Very light action,maybe a little soft/vague for some and possibly need a little more fettling,but I`m quite sold on the benefits of always being able to fully cover the brakes,brake and change gear simultaneously,and having less clutter on my bars.

Ta chaps.
I

g

t harm to take out the core and swap it with a new one anyway.

I recall I had a bit of a fight to depress the air chamber base plate to remove the circlip,possibly because I hadn`t managed to get every bit of air out,so maybe I displaced a seal in the valve?

Also anyone know where I can find an exloded view parts diagram of a Reba?

Checked the SRAM website but can only find the service guide.Just want to check how many and where all the o rings should be in the air chamber……… :oops:

Thanks Julian.So this tiny o ring just sits in the bottom of the negative valve cap?Never noticed it before…….

Ahem,just found a small o ring on the garage floor…………..
:oops:

It`s tiny,aprrox 5mm diameter,smaller than the o rings on the air spring assembly iirc.

Any ideas where its from……?

Losing about 40psi over a week or so.Before I serviced them the reading would remain the same when I reconnected the pump from when I last set them,so I

n

m suspecting a slightly leaky valve core.I might stick the valve in some water to check for air loss,before I disasseble the forks again.Anyone know are these standard Schraeder tyre valve cores?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Brass-Cycle-Pump-Adaptor—Schraeder-Valve-to-Presta_W0QQitemZ280379519560QQcmdZViewItem

Just out of curiosity ,looked on Merlin.New XT chainset £119.Set of 3 M770 replacement rings= £110.
BB £37.95.

Can`t imagine Shimano selling many replacement rings!If you needed rings you could buy the chainset keep the rings,sell the bb for £30 and the crank arms for £40 or so and have 3 new rings for £50…….

Difference is about 40g.I`d get SLX.
Plus sell your old cranks,that could be used by someone who might use them with a new ring for a ss project.
It nuts,that since the price rises Shimano rings work out more expensive than Middleburn ones or a new chainset.Outers are ridiculous money,though I bought mine,through the classifieds from someone who had fitted a bash ring.

Or take your wheels and tyres to the garage and use an air line.Doesn`t matter if you get latex all over their forecourt instead of your garage floor…………

Get the 2 mode.With the 5 mode you have to tap through all,the other modes to get to full beam.2 mode low or high,nice and simple less to go wrong.

Or what about a cyclo x bike.Something like the Specialized Tricross?

Planet X carbon Pro,instead?

Not built wheels.Everything else I have had a go at,including servicing forks,fittng bb,servicing hubs,etc.
A lot of it is down to having the confidence to try,and being able to follow instructions.

To be honest unless the seals are visibly worn and unless the internal o rings leaking air,I`d just change the oil.I took my 2 year old Rebas apart for the first time and the seals were perfect.

Scandal is aluminium,but On One have the In bred and 456.

Or look at external wall insulation,either by battening out using insulation then rainscreen cladding or insulated render,eg:Sto,Weber,Alumasc.Costly though at £75+ per m2 ,applied.
No worries about creating interstitial condensation,cutting down on interior space,and you protect the existing wall.In some areas you can get funding via governmnet initiatives such as CET or CESP.Also look at the NIA website:http://www.nationalinsulationassociation.org.uk/housholder/householder-nia.html
and http://www.inca-ltd.org.uk/

On One inbred/456 £125 + SLX group set from Melrin £400,plus wheels £100-150,plus pair of RS Revelation or Rebas £250-300.Doable for aroung £1k ish,plus better spec than a P7.

Hope hoops now come with Stans rims as a no cost option.Worth looking at built wheels.

Same issue with my Fizik Gobi ti,used with a Thomson post.Tried greasing clamp,rails etc,but appears to be creaking where reails meet the saddle at the rear.

I have some spray lubicant for car door seals I might try,that should be ok on plastic.

My experience of HT2 has been different to some,here.Had the same bb on for well over a year,and bike used all winter without a murmur.

Taken all of mine at 3 months after the second round of injections.
Wouldn`t worry about taking them to proper lessons just yet,just take them and get them used to being in the water.It is better if your local pool is properly heated,though.Some public pools can be a bit cold.
Once they acclimatise they love it.
Take them every week and they love it.My oldest 2 could both swim unaided by the age of 3,and my 2 year old loves being in the pool.

Tried in vain to buy Isopropyl alcohol from local chemists recently.Pharmacist said they did

s best allies.
Used bike specific cleaners in the past and not convinced by them.
A trawl round the car secion of Halfords will inavriably yield cleaners without the "extra £5 premium because it says bike on the tin" products.

I have a Hex,great lid,though I do find these type of lids,with more coverage make my head hot,compared to the jeyboy variety.

Zip tie around stanchion.Let out all air,and lift fork to full extension.Measure travel of fork at full extension,ie from zip tie to seal,which when lifted,will tell you what travel they are set at.
As suggested negative air may pull the fork down a bit.
Reinflate to desired pressure adding + first,then-.Try them at equal pressures first,and check travel.

14st and run mine and afdter a lot of experimenting run mine at 120.

Cheers TZF.

Olly ,thats what worries me……

TZF,Im 6ft,currently riding a Giant XTC which has a 585 mm virtual tt,but have the saddle well back on the rails and lyaback post which makes the front very light when climbing.19" would seem to be the right size,but not sure about the tt…….

Can

f

s website.Do you jknow what tt length the Tig Team is?