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Viewing 40 posts - 961 through 1,000 (of 1,442 total)
  • Fresh Goods Friday 661 – The Hard Lining Edition
  • JoB
    Free Member

    to be fair i have a weak/strong imbalanced wrist power

    JoB
    Free Member

    i have the steel 29er forks that came with the frame, they’re, um, sturdy and the bike has some Pace carbon 29er forks on instead

    i tried the stembar on their fixie and it battered my wrists on the road so it would probably be quite punishing off-road, unless you’re from The North

    JoB
    Free Member

    Rik – Member
    because the (few) disadvantages of standard road brakes aren’t surpassed by your (perceived) advantages of disc brakes?
    Why do you think it is ‘perceived’, do you know me! I’ve been riding and racing road bikes since I was 12 years old, I’m now 31 so that’s quite a bit of experience……

    you don’t know me either, i’ve been riding and racing road bikes for about 10 years longer than you, what’s your point?
    :-)

    JoB
    Free Member

    Only a fool, and I mean a fool (stw has far too many niche hoars) would not have hydraulic disc brakes on their bikes why the he’ll not should road bikes have all those advantages and NO disadvantages!!

    because the (few) disadvantages of standard road brakes aren’t surpassed by your (perceived) advantages of disc brakes?

    JoB
    Free Member

    bucket of hot water with some Fairy in it for the bike, spray of Muc-Off or equivalent on the geary bits to help shift the oily grime, been working fine for me for years and years and years

    JoB
    Free Member

    ahwiles – Member
    road cc clearly know next-to-sod-all about disc brakes…

    well as they were quoting Cervelo/Magura, maybe it’s them that knows “next-to-sod-all about disc brakes…”, the brakes that you have to fiddle between the calipers and hope that the wheel you’ve just grabbed off neutral service has the same disc spacing as the one on your bike…

    JoB
    Free Member

    the Whippet at 100mm isnt really that great for Surrey

    why not?

    JoB
    Free Member

    either of those which are both the same will be fine if you’re fit enough for them, change to something easier if you’re not, change to something harder if you find it too easy

    JoB
    Free Member

    a)

    i race the weekend bike which is also the weekday bike

    spend the money on a trainer if you want to get faster at racing, or save it for race fees, or spend it on weekends away if you want to enjoy some more of them

    JoB
    Free Member

    JoB
    Free Member

    did this guy just not know how to ride it safely?

    that

    JoB
    Free Member

    the Dutch wren’t so shabby in the ”support races” :-)

    JoB
    Free Member

    what do you mean by ultimate?

    lightest?
    longest?
    most expensive?
    best looking?
    one that puts the saddle somewhere comfortable for you?

    JoB
    Free Member

    rode the short one last year, doing the middle one this time

    yes, there’s some dodgy riding, especially when you’re forced to ride barriered off pavements and it all gets a bit tight, and some of the cobbled sections get messy with people all over the place, going faster and shouting ‘hop hop’ in a foreign accent gets people out the way

    wouldn’t do it though if i wasn’t going with a bunch of friends, there wasn’t proper racing to watch the next day, and the odd nice beer

    JoB
    Free Member

    XT trekking cranks with the little ring removed – 48/36

    not so interested after all, hoping they may have been 50/38 or so, oh well.

    well that’s the prototype bike (Cy’s own) sporting a mix of 105 and XT gear; Cy runs a mountain bike chainset because his knees don’t like narrow road cranks, so i guess you could put bigger rings on that one if you were desperate to show your MTB roots, or just put a road 50/38 chainset on the frame

    JoB
    Free Member

    interesting cranks for a road bike, would love to know what rings they are.

    XT trekking cranks with the little ring removed – 48/36

    JoB
    Free Member

    did the shop try to sell him the right square taper bottom-bracket to fit his cranks rather than the octalink one you gave him?

    JoB
    Free Member

    DP

    JoB
    Free Member

    JoB
    Free Member

    oooh, that reminds me, Grant Enlargers

    JoB
    Free Member

    i bought a new Rotring nib (0.3) yesterday :-)

    it’s always fun when asked by a new client what format they should expect the work on and i reply ‘paper’, there’s usually a long quizzical silence

    i like to mix my old and new, tracing an image off a computer screen is one of my favourite wrongs

    JoB
    Free Member

    i use the minimal rise version of flat

    JoB
    Free Member

    according to the website there’s a feed-station en route so you might be able to top-up on food there, if there’s any left, take some food with you though just in case

    unless you like the feeling of something banging into the back of your helmet on every descent you shouldn’t need a Camelbak, tools in a small saddlebag, inner-tubes, energy bars, extra layers in rear pockets

    JoB
    Free Member

    i had a Colnago Master, my Columbus Spirit Enigma is much better
    “Better” in what way?

    lighter, springier, more responsive, livlier handling…..

    just my opinion having ridden both though, YMMV

    JoB
    Free Member

    i had a Colnago Master, my Columbus Spirit Enigma is much better

    JoB
    Free Member

    i think i know what you mean, might have been later than the 80s though, seem to remember it being broadcast over several days over the christmas period in several 2-3hr segments?

    it’s bugging _me_ now :-)

    JoB
    Free Member

    yes, especially on a 29er where there’s more wheel moving around

    JoB
    Free Member

    the OP didn’t ask for training advice, he asked for upgrade advice :)

    JoB
    Free Member

    Weight will make a difference but it will be minor when you consider how much mud it will be carrying around on it.

    a 21lb bike with 3lb of mud on it will still be heavier than an 18lb bike with 3lb of mud on it :)

    wheels are the easiest way to save weight and/or gain performance, things like chainsets, seatposts and saddles can be surprisingly heavy, especially on an entry-level bike, and swapping these can be an easy and cheap way to diet

    JoB
    Free Member

    after much SS 29ing i put gears on and it’s pretty much the same, but with gears

    JoB
    Free Member

    (goes to check)

    been running one of those on the front for while now, good bit-of-everything tyre all the way up to middling mud where it clags up quickly, good go-to tyre for march-oct

    JoB
    Free Member

    in my experience, the benefits outweigh the (small) negatives.

    you can run more than 5 psi less, the wheel will weigh 50g less and you will never pinch puncture (but these are not the only stated performance benefits).

    you have to faff around with sealant, it can be messy, but the faff is considerably less than the faff of countless punctures on the trail, in the wind and rain and mud.
    UST tyres cost money, sealant costs money, tubes and repair kits also cost money.
    You sometimes need Co2 canisters or a compressor to pop them on the rim, sometimes they’ll pop on with a track pup, it depends.
    You don’t have to wait a a good few hours after fitting a tyre for it to have sealed enough to ride on although it might sometimes go down for a a day or two till the sealant has filled all the porous bits of the tyre, on a par with a slow leaking thorn puncture in a normal tube.
    i’ve heard stories of if the pressure is too low, or the tyre sidewall or bead too flexible, it can burp, roll off the rim etc, this requires you to use (shock Horror!) a tube to repair it on the trail, so you get all your riding kit, hands and bike covered in sealant, although i’ve never seen this happen in a decade of riding.
    You don’t need to swap tyres over before a ride because the lower tyre pressures give you more grip in most conditions, you swap tyres at the start of winter and the start of summer.
    I’ve tried it once about ten years ago and have been COMPLETELY convinced its worth it because i can feel the difference on the trail, and i have used UST rims, UST tyres, Stans rims and strips and normal tyres etc.

    Some people swear at it, i say spend the money.

    Just for balance :)

    JoB
    Free Member

    ProCycling and Rouleur are the only cycling mags that i haven’t managed to finish reading before the next one turns up with articles that are a proper sit-down read rather than skip through

    and if you compare cover price to the of editorial/advertising ratio Rouleur isn’t much more expensive page for page than any other magazine

    Peloton and Paved are some new titles from the States that are worth a look for something different

    JoB
    Free Member

    What if children’s drawings were painted in the style of a different artist? – would be a more accurate title, no?

    JoB
    Free Member

    if you want to get a half decent pressure in a road tyre get a Lezeyne Road Drive

    JoB
    Free Member

    Not Going Out

    one year on – no snow, no cat :(

    JoB
    Free Member

    form an orderly queue ladies

    JoB
    Free Member

    have you got dirt in your ears?

    JoB
    Free Member

    there’s washing your bike and there’s blindly blasting it with a pressure washer so the water forces its way into everything

    i’ve been washing my bikes with a sponge and soapy water and taking the chain off to clean it after every ride for 25+ years and never had a problem, you’ll be fine

    JoB
    Free Member

    any road seatpost with that amount of layback should do fine for CX, what sort of ‘abuse’ are you putting them through?

Viewing 40 posts - 961 through 1,000 (of 1,442 total)