i’ve used KMC chains on my Campag drivetrain ever since Campag introduced silly joining links mated with a ridiculously expensive chain tool, never had a problem

running XT chainset, cassette and mech with E Thirteen ring and Pauls chainguide here for XC, all fine

as others have said it’s a simple thing to do, doesn’t need anything special although a clutch rear mech can help hold the chain on the ring, and remove chainstay clatter

about this much (squeeze)

pump them up really hard so that your teeth rattle out, when you get bored of that let some air out by degrees until you start to pinch puncture, add some more, that’s how much

mrblobby – Member

does 7mm really that much of a difference?

in reality, not really
CX bikes historically have high BBs as a throwback to the days of clips and straps when height was needed to keep them from dangling in the mud, as everyone runs clipless now BB heights are generally getting lower and lower because bits flapping in the mud isn’t an issue

on the plus side a lower BB can mean more stability in places where a higher BB bike might feel more nervous which might mean you’re faster overall than not being able to pedal trough a corner, swings/roundabouts

you’re probably overthinking it, i’ve ridden CX bikes with all sorts of BB heights and just got on with it to be honest

mrblobby –

Don’t think I’ve seen anyone on here with a Crux in any of the CX threads I’ve read. Wondering if it doesn’t make for a good UK CX bike.

i have a Crux and if you turn up at any CX race you’ll see plenty – excellent bike, used mine for both racing and mucking about on the hills, would recommend one to anyone

as has been mentioned there is no one handling trait for CX bikes, like different road and mountainbikes they all handle differently from make to make so you can find the one that suits you

Goldtec track hubs aren’t like normal track hubs, they’re well known for lasting forever on courier and SSCX bikes, i have some built up on my SSCX and they’re still good after years of use

warranty? no, but speak to them politely expressing your concern and you never know what might happen

the wheels will be fine, you might find 42c tyres will be a tight fit in the frame

echoing both above, all my SS bikes have been the same size as my geared bikes, a SS bike is just a normal bike with only one gear after all, although i do know some that have gone for a longer bike for more roomy out-of-saddle action

the Cannondale Bugger bike trailer always wins this one

ndthornton – Member
Its easier to fit – thats the only advantage I can see. they are more expensive – more heavy – more money and more likely to go wrong. Solution to a none existant problem. I always flog them when I get a new headset.

they’re quite handy for carbon steerers though, where SFNs are a bit hazardous

as mentioned, whilst everyone’s creaming their chamois over the Gabba (who knew anything about it before last weekend eh?) it’s not really a back-pocketable jacket, it’s a put-on-and-leave-on for rainy rides jersey

whilst the Rapha jacket is very good, packs up really small and light and is a good waterproof the Gore Oxygen GT AS Jacket i have is tons better, packs up bigger than the Rapha (has its own little stuff bag though), is cut perfectly for road riding and has lasted enough multi-hour rain sodden rides and stopped me from crying enough times to be an absolute winner

Been trying to find what spoke length

depends on hub and build dunnit?

Mavic Open Pro is pretty much the default choice, you’ll be fine with a CX tyre on there

mikewsmith – Member
In the end who cares we can chalk it up to darwin. There are not many I fell off not wearing a lid posts…..

if i look back at my most serious crashes on a bike i wasn’t wearing a helmet during any of them, and i didn’t hit my head, or die, but that doesn’t make for a sensationalist evangelical argument, but it does provide balance

in answer to the OP i’d simply go for a ride, just like people did in the 100 years or so before helmets and the internet were invented

that’s not a convertor, that’s the Di2 control box

(goes a bit funny over JT Bones helmet cover)

despite the recent rise in popularity CX racing in the UK is still pretty small, getting people to do it on normal bikes is hard enough without making it more niche ;-)

i’ve raced SSCX and i’ve never been bothered by the fact that there’s no special SS category, it doesn’t matter to me, i’ve raced SS MTB as well and never worried if there’s a special SS category then either as i just lump in with everyone

‘cross fields in certain parts of the US are a lot bigger than ones in the UK so there’s possibly more need for more classes, and the areas where they are tend to be quite singlespeedy as well, and they do like to Try Hard over there as well

the saddle’s forward on an in-line post

*tut*

yeah, Avids are famous for squealing, try toeing in, different brake pads and then some new brakes, in that order

a fork mounted hanger will help with judder, won’t do anything for squeal

yes, it’s just riding bikes round a field

if you want a structured workout that will actually have some fitness benefit in the long run then road bike

if you want some sort of interval session based entirely on what hills are in the way then ride a SS, the benefit of which will be making you very good at riding a SS up hills

is that Joey off the front there?

that’s quite cheap really

what they said, complete PITA, and they’re only designed for geared bikes

make a conscious effort to plant your bum
make a conscious effort to spin smooth circles with your feet
make a conscious effort to use all your leg muscles, not just the pushing down ones
practise

The difference between alu & steel is oft repeated folklore

i’ve ridden steel frames that have the harsh and stiff character so commonly attributed to aluminium bikes, and aluminium bikes that a skippy and slightly compliant, just like steel bikes are supposed to be

frame designers are doing interesting things to both materials now to dial in certain characteristics so saying that a certain frame material does a certain thing, or is bad, is mostly pish

why is aluminium not good for commuting?

nicholas_yiu – Member

Not as good to ride due to aluminium frame

what does this mean? do all aluminium frames ride badly?

you’re not sure about fitting a thinner bolt but are ok about drilling carbon?

fit a different bolt

if you mean seatstay it’s a chain-pip, to hang the chain on when removing the wheel

an article about a company isn’t a product review

doublepost

Aristotle – Member

Films like Skyfall are just clichéd nonsense which require the audiences to do little more than gawp at the action, advertising, CGI and pyrothechnics, suspending any sort of thinking or questioning.

i do enough thinking in the real world, sometimes i like to go to the films, take my brain out, forget about things, suspend disbelief and lap up what’s placed in front of me. it’s called entertainment

i haven’t seen Skyfall yet but that’s exactly what i expect to do, because it’s a Bond film, i may get annoyed at some trifling continuity detail though

that’s because all drop bars are a different diameter to mtb bars (as soon as you get away from the stem)

yeah, a shell on top of a windstopper probably means there’s nowhere for the sweat to go so your baselayer is getting sodden, making you cold

base layer -> mid-layer (if needed) ->windstopper

and seconded on keeping hands and feet warm

as you know know your other half better than i do can you give us an idea of what they like so i can advise knowledgeably?

have you tried tinkering with the straddle height on the rear, that can make a huge difference, as can a smooth cable run

it’s an old basic road bike, replacing more than the cables and bar-tape probably isn’t worth the effort, but tidy it up and use it as a runaround, certainly

like others, i’ve never had a problem leaving bottles on the start line

and i leave a couple of just water bottles in there should i fancy a change from energy goop, something you can’t do with a ‘bak