i thought he was descended from whores

you might not need a drill, wodge anything you can into the hole in the top (a small phillips screwdriver, a braddle) and see it you can unscrew them out that way

if that doesn’t work, then get drillin

that’s quite a clean bottle

i’ve never seen it as a problem, if it’s a little gikky just squirt some water out the spout to wash the worst away

it’s t do with the fork flexing affecting the length of the straddle wire and creating a harmonic

wwaswas – Member
you could try dropping the straddle cable a bit.

you want to raise the straddle cable to lessen the power of the brakes to stop judder, but that looks about the right place.

trying toeing the brake pads in more, then changing the brake pads, then fitting a fork mounted hanger

you could fit a fork-mounted hanger by putting an in-line cable adjuster and extra bit of outer on the existing cable

this has been asked frequently, short answer, No

hmmm, yeah, Tomac was famous for racing cross-country, downhill, and everything else, most notoriously on a mountainbike with drop-bars, sometimes in a full-body latex suit, and he memorably raced on the road as part of the Motorola pro team, which was quite a thing back then.
but we remember the bits of history we want to don’t we?

so a bastardised road bike with knobbly tyres type thing would be pretty apt

X Fusion are brought in by Upgrade[/url] who should have all the bits and bobs

if it’s been dry for a while and then rains the road surface can become a friction-free mix of water and petrol/diesel lifted from the road so it could be that

or you could just slow down a bit if conditions suggest that might be the common sense thing to do

if someone beats you on a Strava section do they get to keep your jersey?

i just bought the same bits from Strava Shop and paid less than you – KOVAT

proper tea is theft

they’re still in business but their facebook and website say their phonelines are down, they say e-mail them – info@pacecycles.com

cookeaa – Member
Well that’s the thing I’m still not too sure what “Compact” really means

well, ‘compact’ is a catch-all term usually referring to a sloping top-tube and one manufacturer’s ‘compact’ will be different to another manufacturer’s ‘compact’, and your road bike geometry will be different to your fixies geometry, but both of those can vary widely from manufacturer to manufacturer, without knowing the geometries of your different bikes it’s going to be hard to give any advice, which may be as simple as “they’re different, get used to it”

yeah, compact usually just means sloping top-tube, but your road bike will most likely have slightly different angles to your fixie, depends if that is designed with proper track geometry or something more suitable for fashionable about-town use, steeper angles will make it feel twitchier and therefore faster even if it isn’t, your road bike might be designed more for all-day comfort than a few laps of the track or just nipping down Costas

as above try to replicate the contact points and go from there

i think the rain’s a good thing, if the course goes all greasy it will tip the advantage to those riders with awsums technical skills, so while the fast dirt roadies might be able to blast the climbs, proper mountainbikers will be able to roost past them as they mince on the slippery singletrack

i look forward to seeing some different faces on the podium

yup, a 54 would be too small, going and sitting on one is the only way you’ll find out what size fits you best though, like trying on shoes

schmiken – Member
Wait until ESI bring out their new stuff, it’s magic!

are these for people that don’t remember how bad Grab-On drop-bar grips were/are? ;-)

i just put a bit of old tape under the wrap on the tops and in the curve of the drops

Go for ratchets. Velcro gets jammed with mud and you cant get the things to secure. :-)

yeah, i’m sure, there’s no doubt that 2014/15 will bring some models of some road bikes with discs, but the vast vast majority will still use rim brakes, and there’s about 100 years of back catalogue that will still need upgrades and spares

just to confuse the issue, i use my CX bike almost exclusively, mixing up bits of road and off-road as i see fit, i live on the South Downs though which is all very CX-able, the overall speed and using bits of tarmac that would be boring on the MTB to link off-road bits mean i go exploring and cover more ground on the CX than the MTB

i think all the opinions go to show that the only person who knows the real answer to this question is you :-)

33tango – Member
Saw that as well but i always think that disc brakes are becoming more and more common on road bikes, so perhaps you’d be buying into obsolete equipment?

no they’re not, and you’re not. really

if you want another mountainbike buy a 29er, if you want a bike that spices up boring off-road and with a tyre swap can be used on road quite effectively as a winter bike then get a ‘cross bike

they may share the same wheel size (ish) but they’re very different beasts

the Kinesis Crosslight Discs are pretty damn good for the money, Front: 840g. Rear: 960g it says here. £274.99

your sweetness

60p a mile is quite a lot really

if by better you mean shorter and more expensive then yes ;-)

Rusty Spanner – Member

A recurring theme, tbh.

of 2

:-)

Kunstler – Member

I will get the puncture call at some point.

we’re all waiting for the tyre-booty call

the wobble problem is very very unlikely to be anything to do with the height of the saddle or the length of the stem, it’s more probably a loose headset or wheel bearing, so check those first, unless of course you’re merely trying to justify a new bike

or it could just be ‘one of those things’, i had a bike that speed wobbled at 48 miles an hour, pedal through it at 50 and it was fine, not a speed that was obtained often though so not really a problem, but a speed wobble at 30, hmmm.

so you want a cheap road frame that climbs well but doubles up as a ‘cross bike?

they’re straightforward to use but are in just the right place to accumulate a lot of mud, if you’re going to be riding your cross bike in the mud, if you already have a bottom-pull mech then use it

i’ve used a bottle-cage bolt to hold in a lower jockey wheel

Occam’s headset

the hose water goes up the steerer tube and then drips back down the inside the head tube and rests on the lower bearing causing it to rust.

this doesn’t happen

it’s down to poor sealing in the headset, the bits that are supposed to protect it from the mud and crap being flung at it from the tyre, and you pointing a hose at it

it makes you feel better about spending £35 for a ride

never been an issue, was given left-handed scissors, ruler etc as a kid but couldn’t use them as i was so used to using RH ones

the only problems are smudging ink when writing, but no-one writes any more, and left-handed cheque books would have been nice but they’re obsolete as well

i run 175 cranks on my MTB and 172.5 on the CX bike and don’t notice it at all

i remember being marketed aluminium frames, suspension forks, (and then longer and longer suspension forks), oversize headsets, bolt-thru axles, 6, 7, 8 and 9 speeds……..

i ride my road bike down singletrack roads