A44 after Capel Bangor is fairly suicidal, with a quite a few blind bends, some chunky great hairpins and heavy traffic, all whilst climbing~ quiet routes for the win.

Giant STP
Mongoose Khyber
Azonic Steelhead
SWD 6 Gun

It could be argued that at this time of year, it is, what with seasonal affective disorder

Its not about the economy and politics, its about the extent of SHRED in your life, now crank up the gnar and giggle your way to spring.

Damn, thats my patent blown~ I noticed this a while back: thru pins, with the allen head inboard is the future; ah well, just a measly £8,000 and 3 months of attorney fees yet to be invoiced whistling away on the wind.

It has Motion control~ mission control was designed for longer travel forks 160mm and up.

This should help: Geekery

Super plush and fantastic damping with a solid chassis, but recently, I’ve been having problems with my axle, which has just enough play to make hideous creaking and cracking noises~ however, if I was the original owner, I’d be well within the 3 year warranty. (definately the axle, after a long winded process of elimnation which had me blaming the steerer/crown, headset and wheel bearings and checking another wheel in the fork)

As for spring weights, I imagine there must be a variety, because mine sag correctly and put up with my 16st abuse without any air assist.

Aargh, my mind 😀

That would be correct, except I was talking about the angles, not suspension performance. You can tell the difference in geometry riding down the road

So was I… the flex and its resultant angleset style geometry makeover will be apparent in much of its miniscule glory the moment the bike is loaded; the suspension performance is more a product of springs, damping and whatnot.

Steerer length and stem placement surely also contribute more to effective weight distribution and difference in ride feel more than a minute geometry change.

Have to remember as well that the flex in a 32 at 140 will be a fair few more tenths of a percent greater than the flex in a 36 lowered to 140, thus increasing the gap between both ride height and perceived bike handling. 😉

I’d save money and buy from Jenson USA if it wasn’t for shipping and customs~ compete or get eat, thems the rules.

Well, I was going to write a book about it… and I had to get it from the factory in Canterbury, to my chosen workplace in Edinburgh, so it made sense.

Worst pain of the journey was nipple chafe.

Fair play to him~ Rickshaw unloaded weighs 60-90Kg depending on make and model ~ the velocab he’s on without a canopy would be somewhere around 75kg, but should roll quite well because of the larger (than 20″ that are on alot of pedicabs) wheels.

Quite a dab hand at it myself; 5 years as a rickshaw rider, including Canterbury to Edinburgh solo~ camping in hedges along the way!!

Check… some parts familiar, some not, so should be interesting: munching carrots as I type.

You could build a 20″ rim on an mtb hub and lower some air forks using travel spacers to give 60-80mm travel, or get some 150mm forks and a head angle slacker than a travellers bowels ready for Champery 2024.

Or as with the brooklyn, get some Marzocchi or similar with removable crown and flip the crown and steerer, or use boxxer crowns on 32mm forks of your choice.

I have an XML set up with the wide angle lens on the bars and its all I could ever ask for~ the beam gives a nice flood into the distance, whilst leaving plenty of light in the foreground should anything escape your initial glance.

Managed some DH trails with it this evening, 5ft drop n all.

Funnily enough, I was in the same predicament and I’ve just bought one from superstar: http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=61&products_id=439

yet to fit it, but I’ll try and report back~ 95% it’ll pop right in.

cynic-al – Member

But regular rear wheels are strong enough.

My 16st and flatland 360s say otherwise… even without rotation, beasting jumps, drops and rocky hell mean some insurance is worth a few less gears that you struggle to choose between anyhoo.

Fit the 120mm forks, if it feels wrong, then consider the angleset. Also bear in mind that forks have different axle to crown lengths for a given travel, so nothing is set in stone.

Too much air on motorcross jump (on a hardtail mtb)= Broken Ribs=Punctured Lung + Ruptured Spleen… not a mark on me, but needed 3 pints of blood tranfused to to internal bleeding~ airlifted off Broxburn Bing.

Can sometimes take a couple of attempts wrapping tape around rim to get tyre sufficiently tight, but once its done, you’ll be very happy.

Quit stressing~ if you use the ritchey stem, you’ve got a whole mm of insurance 😉 … unless its a carbon steerer

I did a while back… bought some pipe clips from screwfix after seeing an ebay seller with homebrew mounts~ can’t recall sizes off the top of my head though and I’ve since moved to a go pro after the alloy housing of the contour kept causing it to shut down in sub zero temperatures when snowboarding.

Could it be that due to cup and cone bearings, when the axle has loosened and been retightened, it is now longer on one side than the other… i.e. off centre~ has this on a bike a couple of months ago, where the wheel was basically only engaging with the dropout on 1 side.

Now if only they’d do this to the war criminals of Iraq and Afghanistan… George Bush and Tony Blair

Yep, you need a syringe and a spanner for the bleed nipple

Quite an accomplished rider it would seem:

More Championships than you

Don’t be hatin on the Rey, he paved the way!!

This was when everything was under-engineered to shave weight, at the cost of rigidity, rideability and longevity (of bike and rider) Mullet and Lycra aside, he’s a hero.

Not in my best interests revealing the competition, but there is some damn sexy beasts here: Demon[/url]

Me… because you’ve got money to burn and I’d like to learn how to build a frame. 😉

This is what you need:

Super Tough Perfection[/url]

Fine on a hardtail, though watch for arm pump… that said, with steel, you should be a bit more damped.

Bit pre go-pro, but the crash (wait for it) was my 1st ever headcam outing.

Personally I’d never go longer than 70mm on a mountain bike(at the mo, between 3 bikes, I don’t have longer than 40mm) I’d sooner look into a layback post, which will only effect handling when seated, rather than a stem which dramatically changes steering characteristics all the time (except when no handing, but that’s never been the best technique for rock gardens.)

As regards freestroke adjustment, although the SLX has the screw, it doesn’t have the mechanism in the lever blade to allow adjustment~ if you look at the images above, there is a slot in the XT lever, which will effectively alter the pivot position and thus bite point. The SLX doesn’t have this, so there is one less thing to go wrong.

By all accounts X-Fusion Vengeances are as good or better than 36s and about £300 cheaper.

Looking at the lever assemblies, SLX will likely be more reliable in the long term… the slot for freestroke adjustment on the XTs is a likely candidate for play over time.