The original question is almost offensive and is pretty much the same as ‘are you stupid’?

I suppose the cult following is there for a reason… brainwashing 😀

If I was going for a one bike quiver, I’d want something that could do Epic XC, Gnartastic DH, Pumpy lumpy Dirt Jumps and snotty ASBO skateparks…

So I’d stick to a nice steel jump bike with a long seatpost and leave the Jones for pretentious conversations over niche ales.

Although suspension plays a part in jumps and drops, that is not really where it’s designed to shine (think of BMXers dropping to flat…)~ multiple hits and rough terrain is where a full suss will really shine above a hardtail.

A real testing ground for this is super tech and gnarly DH, where even highly skilled riders rely on the suspension to soak up and adapt to the terrain, beyond what can be achieved simply by dynamic body positioning~ if anyone managed a clean full run of Glencoe DH on a hardtail, I’d gladly buy them a pint.

The biking industry has the following unique factors:

a) No manufacturer makes the whole bike~ the vast majority make the frame only, on which a number of components from other companies are installed~ each of these component manufacturers has their own profits to make, and want to maintain profit margins in the aftermarket sector, so even with volume discounts to frame manufacturers, the overall prices are likely to be artificially elevated to achieve this.
In the moto industry, whilst manufacturer may contract out work to other firms (eg for radiators, electronics etc), they have the overall power, as they can find plenty of firms to make components to the specifications that they dictate.

b) The sheer diversity of frame manufacturers~ whilst the moto industry has 8-10 big players across all sectors, the cycling industry has several times more~ this means the volumes per company will be far less

c) Due to the inherent need to achieve light weight with cycling components, they are more consumable~ I’d buy a 5 year old Moto without too much concern, but a 5 year old bike frame is likely to be well on it’s way to fatigue and ruin.

In summary, if anything, it is the component manufacturers (of who there are far fewer) who are benefiting most and perhaps working on a monopoly basis to elevate prices.

I had alot of fun on my Mongoose Khyber~ certainly very capable on jumps and plenty chuckable… don’t just take my word on it:

http://www.pinkbike.com/video/51486/

and a review to back it up…

http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/bikes/mountain/product/review-mongoose-khyber-elite-08-30445

and yes, I’m selling it, but only because I got my dream bike to replace it.

http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/1246549/

The guy selling them is the trollminator~ epic genius!!

I have a theory… could you check the part of the lever that acuates the roller on the end of the piston shaft. (tricky to describe… push the lever forward so it disengages and see if the profiled ‘cam’ area is worn)

My SLX rear doesn’t return properly and it seems to be that the cam area is worn in a similar manner to a hooked chainring, so it grabs the piston and doesn’t fully let go~ I haven’t experienced the locked caliper, but wonder if it is what happens over time.

Sadly missed after I killed her:

Sounds like a perfect site to work with~ the material should be mint, with minimal drainage and compaction required.

Here’s one I did a while back~ evolved hugely since, with a height gain of about 8ft (all pumpable), then declined hugely due to lack of use… sculpted from fantastic gritty substance that is also choc full of toxins (old lead mine). Main problem is erosion when is rains due to the slope.

I’ll be happy if plenty of folk buy these to show off, so there is the money to invest in making it light n elegant, rather than a shite-y elephant.

She’s a beaut… I’m curious about the welds~ never seen a steel frame with such large radii like that~ almost looks like a cannondale or nukeproof alu frame where they do double pass welds.

Edit: Doh, I forgot about brazing… Monday morning numptiness

Hells yeah, get it done… I built a pump track at Christmas and still haven’t had sufficient dry weather to properly bed it in 🙁 Every day it tantalizes me through the window, like a cream-cake full of AIDS

My day will come!!

These should help:

https://www.couchsurfing.org/

http://www.wwoof.org/

Hi Johnny, message never came through… email is jivehoneyjive2 at hotmail dot com

Looks like this is likely to be about as light as they get: http://www.clarkscycles.com/index.php/html/product/pagetype/aftermarket/id/csl410-single-speed

I bought a job lot a while back… I’ll do you a pair for £3 posted if you fancy

I had a Peugeot BMX~ tried an image search, but no joy~ was similar colour scheme to AndyF1s pro burner with blue bits above, but with Blue Mags to give a more intensive level of Bluedom. Never did try popping the wheels in the freezer to true them despite the rumours.

By some strange fate, I drive a blue Peugeot, with colour matched interior!!

Peugeot also make pepper grinders!!

So, I’ve only just discovered that Berkshire Carpets and Blinds have a somewhat dubious record of consideration for vulnerable members of society…

What is it about Berkshire Carpets and blinds that gives me issue to complain?

Could it be all the itchy little fibres which cause irritation?

Perhaps the dangerous solvents used getting their fitters sky high and leaving my house stinking for weeks?

All I know is I shan’t be using Berkshire Carpets and Blinds and wouldn’t recommend them in any shape or form.

However, if I did need to contact them (probably relating to a driving offence or some such) I would use these details:

http://www.berkshirecarpetsandblinds.co.uk

BERKSHIRECARPETSANDBLINDS

berkshire carpets and blinds

0118 907 8799

enquiries@berkshirecarpetsandblinds.co.uk

However, I’d be wary of speaking to Geoff Cox, he seems like a right cowboy.

I’d look at something like this… saves rotating weight too

http://www.winstanleysbikes.co.uk/product/20171/MRP_XCG_Single_Chain_Device

Something everyone seems to be missing is whats going on above the frame… the overall steering response is going to be affected by the position of the bars in relation to both the steering axis and the axle of the wheel…

Part of the reason head angles have been getting slacker is due to shorter stems (which quicken the steering to counter the slacker head angle) becoming more viable due to wider bars (which provide increased leverage, whilst the increased turning radius provides more controlled feedback)

Looking at BMX and Brompton, the elevation and offset are obviously going to contribute to the overall system, but there is so many variables, my mortal bonce is beginning to melt… I think so much of current geometry has come about by trial and error, rather than a tangible mathematical equation.

You may be able to calculate the physics of the aforementioned 40ft double, but to hit it is the only way to prove the equation!!

I’m with coatesy on this one… if you look at the vast majority of bikes, the head angles for a given travel are very similar: the best way to demonstrate this is looking at a hardtail which can accommodate a wide range of forks~ say it is 66 deg at 160mm travel, it will be 69 deg at 100mm of travel; beyond all the smoke and mirrors, this means that with a rigid fork (or at bottom out) it will be around the traditional 71 deg that all bikes were once upon a time.

More Keewee love:

Shameless plug… This one is for sale, but will be sorely missed.

Wot no dropper post?

I’m selling a Mongoose Khyber frame: http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/1246549/

Other bikes worth considering are Giant Reign, Marin Quad 140 (few different models with same frame) or Quake (less XC suitable)

A stinky is a bit full on for xc

Orbea? Spain? Troll alert!! Next you’ll be telling us how you only bought it because you liked the colours and were bored, and got a road bike to match because you’re minted!! 😀

Good to hear some feedback veedubba~ you have 1st hand experience where I’m just spitting some internet conjecture; having thought about it a bit more, with the tensioning element, there doesn’t need to be that many lengths… for the most part chainstays vary by about 2 inches and ratios won’t vary that much.

There is still the hurdle of how it restricts design, due to the necessity of access to route the belt in the 1st place, but the output spindle of the gearbox would be compatible with chain or belt, so manufacturers could decide accordingly to fit in with their design.

The fact that regular cleaning and lubrication can be avoided can only be a good thing!!

I assume you also carry spare stems, seatposts, frames, rims etc?

I assume on-one will soon be stocking every possible size of belt to tailor for the ‘virtually unheard of at this price’ variations in chainstay length? (tube splitters permitting) 😉

Gearboxes make sooo much sense and it’s good to see they’re gaining impetus.

However, belt drives really make no sense to me in this application:

– You need a specific length of belt to tailor for changes in chainstay length and gearing~ this would lead to a spares nightmare and would mean shops have to carry extensive stock, most of which would ultimately become dusty.

– There is no automatic centering or retention with a belt drive~ even with precision alignment and high tensions, there is always the possibility of derailment by a foreign object.

– There is no scope for trailside repairs if your belt snaps, so you’d have to carry a spare at all times, reducing any fancy weight savings.

So when it comes to Belt drive, I’m out!!

Despite all that, if they can replicate all the excellence of the gearbox design, without the unnecessary complications of the belt drive, with a patented proprietary standard with sufficient simplicity to be widely adopted within the industry, dragons den will lap em up… if I had a pretty penny, I’d happily invest in something of that nature.

I’ve converted plenty of D521s and the ghetto method is probably your best bet~ you can reuse them if you’re careful~ I have done it with rimstrips, but the advantages don’t justify the cost.

Also, in case you didn’t know, D521s are exactly the same as EX721s, apart from colour and age.

The choices are endless, but steel is real!!

The cheapo wireless computer I got from ASDA has a thermometer, along with calories burnt, a backlight and all sorts of fancy gubbins to distract you from the road ahead.

Its a bike Jim, but not as we know it:

also, this is without a doubt aesthetically pleasing:

I’m torn by this one… think it might be the stormtrooper thing reminding me of my childhood:

and this one has a retro futurism thing going on:

WordPress is free, fairly easy to learn and has huge potential

My bad, should’ve read a bit better:

I guess you mean this beastie??

Afraid I can’t help on the shock front though…

Bushes are definitely the way to go if you’re just experimenting~ cheaper, easy fit and more adjustable (you could just use 1)~ imagine going to all the trouble of fitting a headset, only to find you don’t like it after all.

With a BB that low, its probably the best cornering bike in the known universe… couldn’t work it out to begin with, but am I right in thinking you’ve rammed your stubby fat bits into tall and slender frame? 6-in-9-oo-er

Araldite and a hairdryer and you’re golden

A simple test for all doubters… with you bike stationary, lean it over and apply weight with the outer pedal in the 6 o’clock position, as if cornering~ the amount of flex in the crankarm is surprisingly large~ the difference in leverage between a 170 and 175 arm is sufficient to compound this.

Of course, the majority of the stiffness in a crank is utilised for efficient pedalling and so lateral flex is not likely to be as noticeable, but it is undoubtedly there.

Considering Shimano themselves claimed that the last generation Saint cranks are “over 200% stiffer” than XT, it is fairly apparent that there is quite some variation in characteristics~ with that in mind, pretty sure it’s safe to say that with design for purpose, Zee will be significantly stiffer.

I’m selling a Mongoose Khyber cheap (£200) that would be perfect for that setup… here’s Chris Akrigg putting one through its paces:

http://www.pinkbike.com/video/51486/

and a review:

http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/bikes/mountain/product/review-mongoose-khyber-elite-08-30445