I can’t really remember as it’s quite far back but what should the shop have done / not done, and according to who?

Is there a danger that they are being thrown under the bus by Giant who can’t seem to agree their own policies internally, let alone convey them coherently to their dealer network.

Crikey! A bit of humility could have gone a long way here instead I think the situation for Giant is even worse and we’re all even more as confused!

I’ve taken the liberty of drafting a response that may help…

Sorry we cocked up.
Here’s a new frame.
We’re reviewing our policies and making sure everyone knows what they are so we don’t cock up again.
Sorry again.

Loads of Love

Giant

I used to work for one of the larger brands (not Giant) and we hardly ever asked for full bikes for inspection unless it was a bit unusual – we’d just go by photos uploaded by the dealers.

Giant will be fully aware if this frame is prone to cracking in this way. If it’s a known thing just send out a new frame job done.
If it was an unusal failure I’d have thought they would show a little more interest and not be so hard nosed about it!

I think it was mentioned above but it sounds like an order has come down from HQ to save as much as possible on warranty spend.

To be fair, it just sounds like they are cold and wet. A contaminated pad (ime) will never stop properly again or stop squeeking no matter how much temperature you get into it. I think you’re correct though resin pads do absorb a bit more water so take a little while to get them heated up again.

Thanks again guys!

The only thing is now I’m wondering if I even needed a new one after all! I thought I’d bent my old one when it got tangled in the heather – now I’m not sure it’s that bad!

Thanks for the input – it does appear that that’s how they come. It’s not something I’ve ever thought to check!

After lacing the initial 16 spokes – did you turn the hub enough so that the 17th spoke is going in to the correct hole?

We used diy-kitchens.com
Everything comes fully assembled and the price is unbelievable and quality spot on. Basically you take responsibility for the design etc but they have plenty of advisors and pc’s around the showroom to help with layouts and ideas.
The only (potential) downside is that their showroom is in Doncaster and you’ll most likely want to visit at least once before ordering.

Can’t see where the zip ties are required, as mentioned above-

Conveniently they aren’t shown in the vid and it does make it all appear very straight forward! They essentially wrap around the saddle rails and top tube- I guess someone decided there was a risk that the whole thing could shift?

I was hoping it would be a quick operation to whip it on and off. Granted it’s just a couple of zip ties but it’s an extra faff I don’t need with an impatient miniature humanoid!

Shotgun 100% for ease of fitting! Can even swap between bikes* mid ride should the need arise.

*assuming similar top tube width

From my GCSE Chemistry days doesn’t the difference between 240 and 260 psi equate to around a 7 deg C difference in temperatures? Was it inflated on a hot day and measured at a cooler temperature?

I’ve done a pair of 36’s. Take your time and read the instructions. Very odd taking a drill to a £1000 fork yet strangely satisfying when tightening up your brakes afterwards!

Oil change, air spring service, wipers and seals – yes dead easy on 36’s. Only tool to buy was a big socket to remove the top caps.

I’d not service the damper though – I’d sooner drop it out and send to someone who has the tools.

Now I’m not one to whinge – but seeing as you asked….The Oxford one is one of the worst products I’ve had the misfortune to buy.
Unbelievably fiddly to fit without scratching the paint on the arms, the toe straps twist while tightening and eventually ripped the washers out. To top it off, the final “safety” measure to ensure it doesn’t slip is 2 x zip ties! Its cheap – but very nasty.
The Shotgun one it miles better – well thought out, great quality, the knurled foot pegs are a real nice touch and the rubber coated arms and quick release is classy. Pricey but by cheap buy twice etc!

These arrived today:

I think this loop would be nice on a gravel bike, going around Rothbury (call into Tomlinsons for a coffee) and a little sneak through Cragside.
Can easily be extended further up into the Coquet valley.
https://my.viewranger.com/route/details/MjI4NjE4NA==

I always thought that straight pull were stronger, however after doing some reading I’m now not so sure.
Apparently…..In a straight pull set up the load is resisted solely by the flattened head of the spoke. When the head is punched the grain structure is “mashed” which creates an area of weakness right at the point where the load is being applied.

On the other hand, with a conventional arrangement it is the material after the elbow that takes the load. Furthermore the grain structure of the spoke is not disrupted when the J-bend is formed.

To be honest I can’t remember the last time I broke a spoke anyway – straight pull or otherwise!

SP are much harder to calculate and source!

fopar?
Four-bar?? – unfortunately not!

I would have thought H would do the trick.

On a similar theme my Fox 36 with 180 direct mounts, with Hope caliper, 200mm Hope disc and Hope K adaptor – still needs a small washer under the lower bolt to avoid binding…

My friend has the same issue – I think it might just be a thing?!

Vorsprung did a Tuesday tune about the telescopic vs linkage forks – always good for a watch
https://m.pinkbike.com/news/tuesday-tune-ep-8-why-were-riding-telescopic-forks-2016.html

Haha, don’t feel bad. Even when on my actual road bike they only started to acknowledge my existance once I started wearing fingerless gloves!!

My 2017s did thIs. If there is too much bath oil in the lower legs at full compression it has no where to go so gets forced into the negative chamber. Easy to fix by dropping the lowers and removing the air spring. Check the seals aren’t knacked though

I use JE James for Sapim spokes. Reasonably priced and available individually.

Who’s building them for you? If they can build a wheel I’m sure they could advise spoke length.

Having said that, Try these for size –

https://www.wheelpro.co.uk/spokecalc/
https://spokes-calculator.dtswiss.com/en/

Don’t necessarily believe the published ERD either – much better to measure the parts yourself once you physically have them

cant go wrong with WTB yellow tape – available in loads to widths

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/wtb-tcs-tubeless-rim-tape-11m-roll/rp-prod66624

I go with internal width + 5mm.

Personally think its best to go up the sides to prevent movement when seating/ removing tyres.

You say you’ve only had the bike a few months?
Sale of goods etc if it’s less than 6 months old burden of proof is with the manufacturer to prove that there was no defect present at point of sale. In my experience it’s almost impossible for them to prove this and should save themselves the hassle and just replace it for you foc.

Amedias is spot on – that’s how it should work.
Sometimes the to and fro can be a bit of a bind though so going straight to the source “can” be more efficient!

TBH I don’t think its got to a point to involve citizens advice or Consumer rights. The distributor is not disputing that its a warranty case – it’s just they need to come up with a solution that’s acceptable to all

I agree that the first port of call is always the retailer where it was purchased from – though if the distributor has engaged with the consumer directly (as it appears in this case) and he hasn’t been explicitly instructed to deal only via an authorised dealer I think it’s fine to discuss this with the distributor. Ultimately the “fix” will come from the Distributor so deal with them directly if possible, the shop plays their part by facilitating the “fix”

Its a tricky one – you mentioned that you have upgraded the parts, do you have the originals still? If so I’d pop them back on and pursue a full refund.

It’s probably more likely that you’ve binned them. In this case I think you would be within your rights to request a partial refund equal to the retail value of a replacement frame.

Essentially you should be in the position to purchase a brand new frame from a different manufacturer that suits you. Realistically there will be additional costs as not all your bits will fit but you may have to suck these up.

Good luck 🙂

Saddleback calls shop “look we’ve got a guy who has received a defective frame and we can’t sort him out with a suitable replacement. I know we don’t normally do this but please can you offer him a cash refund and we’ll credit your account? Cheers”

This “can” happen!!

“Intense will, at its discretion, repair or replace any frame that it determines to be defective during the warranty period.”

I would read that as they would use their discretion to either repair or replace a frame that is defective.
They seemed to accept that the frame has a defect so their options are to repair or replace it.

I would keep pushing for something that suits you – or a refund. I’ve seen in rare cases full bikes being refunded if a suitable replacement cannot be found.

Remember this is totally not your problem to sort out!

I’m pretty sure my Boost-hubbed Eagle 12 speed set up came with a 6mm offset chainring.

Also it could just be the photo but there appears to be some discolouration on the disc spider ,again could be heat?

Looks like glazing from overheating- do you drag the brakes?

Yeah, if it’s not a snug fit getting it to inflate could be a real pain. I’d definitely try another wrap of tape to help close the gap

I would give the rim another layer of tape- sounds like your bead may be a bit baggy!!

I think that the prevoius version of paternity leave (pre 2014 I think) was tested in court.
I was ruled that it was ok to discriminate against the father in this case as he would be treated the same as the non child bearing woman in a lesbian couple and therefore not discriminated against in terms of sex. Since the legislation changed I don’t believe it has been tested in court but imagine a similiar outcome

Is the axle worn where the bearings contact?

Frames are cheaper to manufacture too. No threads, don’t need facing as the plastic cup can handle a small amount of misalignment

I’ve just been sat watching clips from the Collective films that I’ve not seen for years –

Also a favourite:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qMspIMjwBJ8
I love how much of a monster Nathan Rennie was on a bike!