I buy patches and ‘glue’ separately like you. I feel that you have the right stuff but if you have had it a while the important part of vulcanising solution can evaporate. 

I didn’t get that feeling: https://www.change.org/p/keep-thirlmere-road-open/u/32167707

Give it a go, you may like it. We have one. Got fed up with the cost, the cleaning faff and the wastage (before they rolled out the recycling schemes). Day to day I use a cafetiere and only now use my Tassimo for making espresso before we have a party. Tassimo espresso has a good crema so I fill a whisky bottle with espresso and refrigerate it for espresso martinis.

Briskers don’t look like they have much of a cuff for me, I have not tried any on though. Is this a problem for this Californian designed product?

Not had this problem myself but LBS is an essential services and could still be open if they want to/can be open.

I got a ti CK fitting 45degree split-ring off ebay a few years ago. Can’t find any there now but these seem the same:

http://ridefullgas.com/spn-precision-titanium-1-1-8-crown-race-for-chris-king-headsets/

Well can anyone find me a Shimano 11 speed 11-34 cassette for significantly <£60? Think that has to be a Shimano HG-R800 but I’d be happy with anyones that fits. It’s for a road bike with a standard looking long cage 105 mech – looks to me to be a size that whilst popular at 9 speed got missed out with 11.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tange-1-1-4-Threaded-Headset-Mountain-Bike-1-25-Inch-Retro-Vintage-Kult/322846905961?hash=item4b2b2cd669:g:RoEAAOSw2gxYpz3P

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shimano-HP-M737-Threaded-1-1-4-Headset-NEVER-FITTED-NOS-RARE-Old-Skool-1994/253227584140?hash=item3af58a4a8c:g:85cAAOSwc6pZ8eVz

Not ridden in the Peak for years but for me simply because it’s not there anymore – the Chapel Gate of old (10-15 years ago) with the ribbon of tarmac that occasionally ended and necessitated a bunnyhop to the next. I loved that.

Always liked Jacobs Ladder for the gasps and commentary by the tourists as you dropped off the top.

That is what could happen to this set:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Specialized-Allez-Comp-Carbon-Forks-for-Spares-Repairs-/282567700047?hash=item41ca58ee4f:g:QPwAAOSwjRpZPumb

Taking what is essentially a road-bike off road reminds me of what mountain biking used to feel like. Grassy tracks that grip onto wide knobbly MTB tyres and reduce you to walking are where narrow CX tyres really come into their own and make you relise that you packed the right bike. A CX bike can also turn otherwise boring offroad tracks into fun and if you live in an area with limited off-roading it means you can cover lots of road miles linking what off-road is there. As ever it’s all horses for courses stuff and leads to owning more bikes.

http://www.logcabinswales.co.uk/

Trawsfynydd holiday village is near Bronaber just to the north of CyB on the A470. Many of them are privately owned so standards vary; the owner of a good one may well offer it for rental elsewhere too.

My theory is that it depends on the age/geometry of the bike….. my full susser is a 2007 Stumpjumper 120 which I have had from new (of course 26″ flavour). I was on 665mm/90mm for a few years, then I put a 140mm fork on it and a longer shock upping the rear to 136mm travel and went to 680/70mm and all was good. Then I read a forum and decided I ought to try to get on this shorter and wider thing. So I tried 711mm/50mm but it just felt so wrong. I tried rolling the bar forwards and backwards and adjusting the position of the levers and shifters but just couldn’t get on with it. I realise these bar widths are far from wide by todays standards and I am talking about <1″on each side. I have ridden 150mm stems and 520mm bars in the past so maybe I am as wide as I can go and cannot adapt but perhaps a frame design >10 years old isn’t supposed to work like that? Modern geometry and all that….. yawn, sorry.

It has just hit me, I am going to have to try 711mm/70mm aren’t I?

I realise yours were already off the bike minus the hoses but next time remove the inner piston first whilst lever, hose and fluid are still in place.
Hold the outer piston in whilst pumping the brake lever until the inner one drops out; the outer one may fall out of its own accord or can be accessed by removing the bore cap.

In fact my filed down driver is a PH2 not a PZ2

Many years ago I heard about filing the tip of a PZ2 down and I have not mangled any mech screws since.

http://www.ridenorthwales.co.uk/english/routes-detail.asp?rtype=9

IMO FS is best, only for a few hundred metres but unless you are very light you could write-off a rear wheel on a HT coming down.

Back in the day at at the turn of last century you’d have ridden your HT up with your man-servant following on your FS then swap for the descent and tell him to walk the rough bits.

Yes, very good. Very fast descent.

Lower the stem, maybe stick a sligtly longer one back on, roll the bars forward, slide the saddle back; maybe benefit from a dropper. All of those things will give you more room in there. Otherwise buy some golf clubs and really learn how to hate your sport!

Numerous responses to such questions concerning whether I need a bell or not:
“Do you have a red cross on your door?”
“Are you allowed to talk to me?”
“Where is your carer?”
“Do I need a bell on my trolley in Tesco?”
[Shouted whilst pointing] “STRANGER DANGER, STRANGER DANGER, STRANGER DANGER”

Flat or watered down it’s for the sugar boost. Only use on the last lap because you will use it up and be left with nothing. Similar to gobbling half a bag of jelly babies at the bottom of your last hill before home. A bit old school since there are now plenty of gels around with caffeine as well. Try it since it is cheap and it may well work for you.

I sense a stickerbombed house come boxing day!

I have no warrenty but out of interest how much are these bearings going to cost me if I wanted to replace mine in my wheels and do they just wiggle out with a screwdriver?

I had some old Dianesse ones that did this. Put it down to the elastic stretching as they aged. I think it is a problem with most knee/shin combos aftre a time. I got some 661 Padlocks and that sorted them out.

On several sets of wheels on several different bikes I have the newish shape Hope ones and in my experience they are fine. I believe that the original shape Hope ones (that indents your hand when you close them) had a few instaces of coming open when riders didn’t want them to.

Conversely the newer shape Hope seatpost QR is rubbish and could not hold my seat posts with my heft on it. So I run the older Hope seatpost QRs and they are fine.

No one will fault any era of Shimano wheel QR though.

Yes

Not sure how to help you and it should not be happening so early on in your brakes life but hoses with olives will do this over time anyway. It’s only visible with braided hose as opposed to standard plastic, since you see it bleeding up the wieve.

Goodridge connectors are far better since they screw in to the inside of the hose with no olive. I thik Goodrige make Hopes braided hose anyway IMO it’s not the hose that makes the long term difference but the connectors.

A few rounds from a kids plastic machine gun will shut them up and then maybe make them see the funny side.

Where did all the paint go more like?!

Cwrw Gorslas from The Kite Brewery is local and Afan Lodge have been selling it. Nice drop.

This happened to me and a cromo frame with an alloy post way back when. Tried brute force and caustic and more brute force, then heat from a heatgun and even more brute force. I then resorted to the 4 hacksaw cuts and peel method but bits just snapped off and what was left would not budge with hammer blows on an old screwdriver. With subsequent experience of other stuck components over two decades I wish I kept on with more heat shocking – maybe I had weak caustic too. You have probably gathered now that 4 cuts and peel is a last resort. I think a decent shop or frame builder should be able to drill it out and then ream it clean. Good luck.

Shoe repair shop/a cobbler should be able to sort it out with a bit of webbing.

Shoe repair shop/a cobbler should be able to sort it out with a bit of webbing.

Mavic wheelsets do that. IMO the best you can do is sell it for spares or repair (or use your bits to renovate another crossmax wheelset that you pick up for spares or repair).

On a flatbar roadbike I have run Deore LX 7sp rapidfire shifters across a 105 groupset. I am now running a Deore XT longcage mech on that same 105 groupset on a drop handlbar bike except the shifters are now Sora STI.
I’d have thought you’d be ok but in truth cannot really comment about the more modern 10sp stuff.

Don’t tell me tell Halfords:

FSA PEDAL WASHER PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
The FSA Pedal Washer is perfect for keeping your shiny new cranks looking the part even after a tough workout through mountain trails. Made using stainless steel the washer provides a robust design for a long lasting life.

FSA PEDAL WASHER EXTRA INFO
Designed to fit most crank sizes
Ideal for protecting bike cranks when pedalling

I too was thinking a good traditional shop like SJS and find that Halfords have them by a well known brand. From the description I don’t see how they would stop me from scuffing my cranks?

My mate had a Ciocc with an italian bb and during it’s debut 50 miler he needed to stop every 10miles to finger tighten the loosened BB. Upon researching things a red loctite was procured and the BB was refitted using this and the problem went away. His Ciocc was not titanium though.