I have a 30t with 11-36 on a 29er. That’s an 80″ high gear and 24″ low. Sometimes I would certainly use 1 gear higher if I had it but it doesn’t bother me at all not having it. On the low side I don’t often use the 36 but when I do (usually when I’m knackered at the end of a long ride or race) I’ m bloody grateful it’s there.

I suppose what I’m saying there is if you’re compromising, better to compromise the top than the bottom.

30t with 10-42 gives you 20.7″ bottom and 87″ top. That’s a pretty good range. 32 front would give you 22″ low 93″ high. It really depends on you but I suspect most people would miss the 20.7″ low more than the 93″ high.

Garry_Lager:

it’s an order of magnitude beyond a regular fork service

Is that based on your own experience? On which models?

I’m only familiar with the 29er PBR but that model, at least, seems pretty similar to conventional suspension forks to me – You take the top off and there’s a damper and a spring in there. (both fairly simple to dismantle and reassemble with an oil change) What’s so different / difficult about it compared to other forks?

The only aspect I can see being a bit tricky is dealing with the bearing strips. I’ve not taken mine apart yet (because they work fine and have no play after 3 years) but that job doesn’t look particularly more difficult than the equivalent replacing of bushings on a conventional fork…

Have I got the easy one and the other lefty models are much more difficult to work on?

Chris: when you say the stanchions wore out, is that on the newer “hybrid” design? (So I guess they wore where the lower legs slide through the bushing?) What broke on them?

Removing the front wheel with an Allen key really is no hassle at all but admittedly friends etc usually think it would be.

Love the “cycle computer” stuff, very “rough stuff fellowship“. 😀

Chef: could you expand a bit on that please? From all the forums etc I’ve read, most Suunto users seem happy…I’m interested to hear if you think it’s a bad choice?

I’ m looking at this too and decided on Suunto ambit 3 Watch with Powercal HRM strap.

http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2014/07/suunto-ambit3-multisport.html

http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2012/11/cycleops-powercal-in-depth-review.html

The only tool you really need is the castle tool, which is £28

Cannondale Super Castle Tool KH031

(used for removing the damper) The axle clamp and pin spanner are nice to have but you can make do if you have a vice or are careful with molegrips. Oh and you need an old spoke to pull the port plug thing* out.

All the tools and parts are available from Qwerty (and probably other Cannondale dealers) If they don’t list it, just ask and Lloyd will usually get it in for you.

Bearing migration? I can do a bearing reset (every 15 hours) in less than 1 minute and you don’t need to do that at all on the new forks.

There are adapters if you really want to use a “cycle computer” but I would think most would be using a smartphone / garmin / gps watch these days if they’re bothered about ride stats.

*can’t remember what it’s called.

Not sure why you’d say they aren’t “user servicable”? I just stripped the damper down and changed the oil in mine – It’s not that hard. A new seal kit (containing every single seal in the fork, new air valve etc.) costs £8.50.

If you’re going to buy one, I’d probably pay the extra £100 and get the new (non boot) “hybrid” design.

Cannondale Lefty XLR Carbon

Firstly, I’d recommend a smart phone GPS system such as Strava / Endemondo etc. If you’ve already got a newish phone then it’s free and a really easy way to track your mileage etc. That will motivate you and give you a good idea of what you’ve done.

At a basic level, just using a HRM for a bit will give you a much better idea of the intensity you’re working at – after a while you’ll be able to tell you’re at 70% of max just from your breathing without the HRM.

After that, having some software to examine and collate ride HRM data makes it much more useful. Knowing how long you rode in each zone will tell you a lot more about how much “training stress” you put yourself through than just looking at miles / time / elevation gain.

All that said, you definitely don’t NEED one – I think you’d have to get to quite a high fitness level before you’d need to go beyond “just ride more” as an effective training strategy.

…and I’m not just saying that because I’ve got a lovely pair currently luxuriating in the classifieds. 😉

The LB’s are awesome. On my 2nd set now and nothing but impressed with them. From what I’ve read they make SBC Rovals there too (and they’ll print your own custom decals on the rims!). Pretty sure they also said somewhere they were looking into doing builds with DT 240s hubs, which would be perfect. Superstar might be very good, though, never tried them.

As for the BS quesiton, IMO the low weight combined with stiffness of carbon rims is very nice. You can get ali rims at a similar weight but they’re much more flexy.

dragged off the plain…

??

(soz!)

Njee: Looking back to the title of the thread, I’m reminded that the OP is looking for a lightweight FS rather than a display of bike shop pendantry. 😀

Njee: That’s relevant if you just want a light bike for posting on forums but not much good if what you want is some rear bounce 😀

My point is a 22lb hardtail is quite easy to build so, with a 2-3lb weight gain for an FS frame, a 25lb FS shouldn’t be any harder (albeit a bit more expensive).

On the FSR, what is the frame and shock weight? I’ve been looking at 29er FS’s (mainly Scalpels and Canyon Lux) and the carbon frames with shock seem to come in at around 2100g – that’s only 1KG / 2lb over a very light HT frame….even if you add a drooper it ought to come in under 25 easy enough…

Tony: Though it may sound excessively geeky, I would recommend a simple spreadsheet to plug all this stuff into. It will give you a really good idea of where weight and wonga are being spent. You’ll also find out where you draw your own line between cost, functionality, comfort and performance…At some point, though (different for each rider) weight-saving crosses the weenie-ism line between simply trying to get a nice light bike that rides well and a disproportionately expensive stat based sport of abstract numbers…

Some randoms based on my very limited running experience:-

– If you’re a reasonably fit cyclist, you’ll be able to run fast enough to annihilate your leg muscles.
– The first few runs WILL give you DOMS, just make them short and easy and not before a bike race or anything.
– Run off road, not on tarmac or concrete. It’s MUCH less bad for your joints and seems to take less time to recover from.
– Running is VERY injury prone. I don’t think I know anyone who runs who hasn’t had some form of injury from it.
– Running shoes are annoyingly expensive for what they are and need replacing regularly.
– I find it great for just getting out for a bit when the weather is shit in the winter.
– It’s very easy to measure your improvement with running, much easier than biking.
– Cycling is better for running than running is better for cycling (if you see what I mean)
– Parkrun is brilliant.

“Across Realtime” by Vernor Vinge. Really interesting concept. (time bubbles)
“The Anubis Gates” by Tim Powers. Sci-fi historical time travel romp. Good fun.
“Player of Games” my favourite Banks Culture novel.
“1984” (Orwell) is excellent (though very dark!)

If you like sci-fi for the ideas (rather than the special effects) and haven’t seen it already, I’d heartily recommend the film “Primer”. (and “Moon” too for that matter)

Yeah, have sent back a couple of things. They were very prompt with refunds, probably within 1 day of the items arriving back with them.

Labelling Guidelines:

“Just tell them what’s in the f’ing pot and don’t be a deceitful shit about it“.

Rode it last night in the rain (please sign my petition for performance-related pay for the Met office!). Sketchy but fun – Eyes were on stalks looking out for all the wet roots in the semi-darkness.

Good idea diverting the trail half way down the steep descent btw – that was pretty spicy to ride down in the slop with that magnetic tree waiting at the bottom.

I think the 2014 course is a great layout given the design brief and area constraints but for me it doesn’t quite compare with the “classic” 2012 course…sorry guys 🙁 Of course it’s hard to tell when not racing but as much as people hate Badgers, the Coldean climb etc. I think those distinctive trail features are part of the USP of Big Dog.

I also think those last 3 descents of the “classic” (SCOHB I think they’re called on Strava) made for a killer finish to a lap. I know it’s very difficult to overtake on those sections but if that’s the issue, maybe a few of us locals can create some alternate lines to make those 3 runs a more viable finish for next year?

That said, I’m really looking forward to seeing the new course come to life in the race and a big thanks to you guys who have already done lots of hard work and created some new trails in the process.

From my perspective they could abuse “perfect” and “awesome” all they liked if only they would give up starting their sentences with “So…”

We’ve done this sort of thing before though and I’m not sure it has made a significant impact on the proles. To really make a difference it needs to be integrated into that infernal Daily Mail side column (next to the breaking news about Posh’s cellulite).

Mr Blobby: Thanks for the Powercal write up. I’m in that exact position: need a new HRM / strap anyway and thought the Powercal might be worth a go for a few extra quid. I’m not expecting PM accuracy, more like some rough figures for TSS etc. on top of the HRM data.

Fantastic achievement! Inspirational.

Does make the 3300m Downs look a bit tame….:/

Gate was probably one of about 50% of gates seemingly used to keep crops from escaping…

I slimmed mine down from carrying all sorts of junk a couple of years ago, now I carry the following, which I’d consider pretty much the minimum:-

450g and all (bar the pump) fits in the bottom compartment of a camelbak rogue with space left for a 2nd tube if on very long rides.

Inner tube: 200g
Pump: 100g
Multi tool (with chain splitter): 100g
small box (bit bigger than a matchbox) (50g) containing:-
– vulcanising solution
– tube patches
– 2 ibuprofen tabs
– 2 immodium tabs
– quick chain links
– £5 note
– tyre boot
– 2 cleat bolts

I run tubeless, so should probably have some of those “worm” things too…

Love the mug colour – gorgeous!

S-stalking looks like the course might be fairly short this year? (or maybe just more compact and easier to marshall?)

We were riding a guess at it last night – have to say Stanmer is riding bloomin’ marvellous at the moment.

Heston. (Charlton rather than von Blumenthal)

Congrats to those completed already! Incidentally, if you’re doing 8800 anyway, it might be worth adding another 48m as a cherry on top 😉

84% done. Feet starting to ache on the climbs from all the pushing down.

Swedish chef: any more info on the FSI please? How did it compare to an F29? – thanks

Yes, wait until the new ones come out, then get a discounted 2014 model. I had no problems buying a discounted bike on C2W a couple of years ago. Evans also let you add whatever you wanted on top of the voucher, so you could get a £1k voucher and buy a £2k bike if you like (don’t know if that still applies).

2200m yesterday, 1700m today. Only got 4 evenings left to finish it, though, as I’m pitting at Bonty next weekend.

If you still don’t get any joy, ask on the MTBR forum (Cannondale section). Good Lefty tech knowledge on there too.

What’s with all these new “aggressive” bikes?!?

This is aggressive, that’s just a bike:

Nice one! Under 20 hours is immense. Full marks for SS / rigid too!

Would have been better with less CGI and more plot exploration but yes,
I was quite pleasantly surprised.

Yeah that’s a good response…I remember a while back R4 interviewed a woman who ran a small company for Clooney. From what I remember, this company was set up to use satellites to capture footage over Syria and help prosecute human rights abuses. Good on you George.

At work I have a 24″ (1600×1200) and a 30″ (2560×1440) and at home three 24″ (1920×1200) screens. I’d say it depends on how you use them but I find two smaller monitors MUCH more useful than a single big one. I thought having 3 monitors would be super useful (and they were incredibly cheap S/H) but it doesn’t add much over two really. The big difference is always adding that second monitor.

Also, as mentioned, resolution really counts. I hate the fact that all the new screens are only 1080 high. The extra dots of 1200 high is really useful. 1440 is even better. 900 is a bit crap tbh, I don’t think I’d buy a screen that was only 900 high.

I’d get two 24″ 1920×1200 or 1920×1080 screens second hand.

I presume there’s some sort of line input? Stick a cd / mp3 signal through it to check if the problem is the amp or TT.

I suspect caps mostly last longer than given credit for. We’ve got a Quad 33 / 303 pre/power amp in our kitchen stereo and they were last serviced in 1977! I’m sure they do need a recap by now (especially the big ones in the 303) but it doesn’t sound bad, not horribly bright…Probably a trifle muffled if anything.

Well, in theory, since tooth wear is primarily caused by running a stretched chain (hence loading the teeth individually rather than spreading the load between many teeth) then running a succession of unstretched chains should give maximum cassette life. Of course, the teeth will still wear down (albeit at a reduced rate) and at some point, wouldn’t continue to mesh with new chains, which is why you have to go back to the first (already partially stretched) chain at some point and start the process over. From what I’ve read, 3 to 4 chains in rotation for 500 miles each is the sweet spot for this. One guy on MTBR was even flipping each chain over half way through its cycle.

I hasten to add that I’ve not tried this for myself, it’s just what I’ve read – this practice wouldn’t make sense with my current cassette (XT 11-36, £34 at CRC) but I might try it when it’s time for a new drivetrain (will probably change to XX10s or XTR11s cassette then)