You many want to check exactly what you have, 6 speed Dura Ace will be from the mid to late 1980’s and won’t be compatible with anything modern.

If you have a freehub with a 6 speed cassette, it will be Uniglide, which isn’t compatible (without a lot of metal work) with modern Hyperglide cassettes.

It will take a fork up to 100mm fine, I have a 1997 Bravado which will be very similar / the same frame design, and over the years have used rigid GT, RS Mag 21’s (60mm), Magura Rond Quake 75mm & 105mm, Marzocchi MX Pro’s (80mm), rigid carbon and RS Duke’s (100mm) forks, and it feels best with the 100mm forks.

The Manitou’s which you have are from a long bad period where they were the worst of the major manufactures.

You’ve not said what you mean by budget, but for £120 you can get a RS Recon TK from On-One

Lynskey build, owned for about 4 years, many thousands of KM, very comfy

I had a similar problem with a XFX HD5700 card, always crashing with the display drivers now working issue, using both generic windows and multiple versions of catalyst drivers. eventually got it replaced with another card after it had been back under warranty 3 times, no issues since.

If you can put another card in, say Nvidia to verify that nothing else is wrong with your system, sounds like your card maybe faulty.

Thanks, ordered

Had my SON Delux for just under 2 years now, and it’s done about 12,000 KM in the best and worst weather the UK has to offer and has been flawless in operation.

Got it from SPA Cycles, they orginally built it with a Rigida Chrina, similar to an Open Pro, but lasted 1 year before the braking surface was worn concave, so replaced with an Open Pro.

Have also got an XT T785 dynamo disc hub to build up for another bike, expecting the performance to be the same, but it is a lot heavier than the SON.

The good thing about Satmap is they are a UK company, and will repair old units at a fixed price, although not sure what they are going to say about my 4 year old unit I sent in bits to them last week for them to have a go at rebuilding.

For what your asking for, sounds like you just need somthing with a breadcrumb trail, which the Satmap will be an overkill for.

It pushed the MotoGP to the red button earlier as well, so no HD, not impressed by BBC either.

If you looking at British Cycling, you can get £10 cash back from Quidco / Topcashback at the moment.

Folders are a strange one, I sold my Dahon Speed P8 for almost as much as I paid for it new, and it was when it was 2 years old and well ridden when I sold it.

For MTB’s breaking them seems to get a better return, hear of more people getting bargain buys than good sales, especially when you are looking at bikes going for more than £1000.

For working out spoke length, look here[/url] just input what hub, rim & spoke count you are using

Most hybrids are 700c, and linear pull brakes won’ be an issue, as they have spacers for fitting different rim width’s.

The OLD could be an issue, but without knowing what the Kona has / what wheels were last used, you can’t tell, if the frame is steel, it should have enough flex in it so that 5mm isn’t an issue.

If you have a road bike, are you sure you have canti brakes, not caliper (single or dual pivot) brakes?

If you have Cantis, with out knowing the mount type you have, threaded, non threaded etc, impossible to answer.

If you have a road bike with normal road brakes, they will fit, as they are a complete pad & shoe unit, but given that they are a very old design / spec, and have plastic (integrated) holders, don’t expect great braking.

If your on a budget, these[/url] have good reviews, if you can stretch a bit, would look at getting a brake pad with a seperate shoe, so you can swap the pads only, which will work out cheaper in the long run, CRC has 6700 pads / shoes here which are nice

Had very similar on a Giro Hex a few years ago, sent it back and it was covered by warranty.

It shouldn’t come out, and as its part of the saftey / retention system, would be contacting the shop you got it from.

Why not call the for an Ambulance first, then request the police on that 999 call, they may have more interest if they thing there is an injury.

Would avoid using the term RTA as the A is for accident, indicating no fault, at minimum it’s a collision, as this implies fault.

Cromwell Tools sell one, nice and cheap

SID’s have gone from 28mm to 32mm stanchions, and the arch is very similar to Reba’s now would be the main differences; so a 2012 fork will be much stiffer than a 2007 version.

Will be numerous others depending on the model you are looking at.

Currently using a 2011 SID RLT, very happy with it.

Got in to the local branch at 0810, and there were people walking out with armfuls of bike stuff.

Got a soft shell, I had one last time around, and the sizing seems to have changed, had to get a Medium for the same fit as my last Large, they have also added a zipped pocket which is great.

The Panniers looked nice for the money but don’t need any at the moment.

Solid forks would be about the worst thing you could put on any bike, no feeling, and really heavy.

Rigid forks however (guessing this is what you mean) can be great, just requires a slightly different riding style, it was all we had BITD

Can’t see how they could be any hassle after they are fitted, as there are no moving parts, there is nothing to go wrong on them.

I had a similar collision a few years ago, I was in a dedicated lane on a roundabout when a car drove into me, the claim process took about a year using a solicitors via work; at times it did feel that the process was going nowhere; but ended up with a very nice payout, no need for court.

I had a free trip in an ambulance with mine / few hours in A & E, and the police were involved from the start, but from memory all the driver got was one of the refresher type days, and no-doubt a hefty increase in their insurance premium.

Do you like hills and how much time do you have?

Just doing a really quick goole map route, on a lot of 2 and 3 digit A roads, so should be decently maintained, but much quieter than a single digit A road.

A route going east then south would look like this

Bolton
Bury
Rochdale (hilly / quiet)
Hudderfield (quiet)
Barnsley (quiet /flat)
Doncaster
Bawtry
Gainsborough
Lincoln

On your orginal planned route you only have a short section of A1, thats from the Worksop to East Markam exit that is mainly a 50 limit though Elkesly, and there are services (Little Chef / McDonalds) at East Markam

Did 180km in the dales on my Vaya yesterday, and it’s a heavy bike going up hill.

Have it setup as a tourer with a compact 105 groupset / SRAM 11-32 cassette, and doing big hills it need the 32T.

On decsents it’s great, am using Shimano R505 brakes, but will be swapping these for R515’s as soon as they are out, for tires, using Schwalbe Marathon Dureme 37×700, they may be big, but they are very fast rolling (and should be for their cost).

Have only used Oakleys, not the Addidas, I like the Jawbones, but they do have issues, at least for me, unless pushing a lot of air through them, I do have issues with them steaming up, and I do find they have a blind spot unlike Radars or M-Frames.

On the plus side, as others have mentions, their warranty is the best arround, have used a few times and had great success with it.

Been using Oakleys for getting on 20 years now, have tried other brands, but always go back to Oakley.

There are similar stories to this of planes being buried unpacked in Australia, they still like to bury planes down there, with their F-111G’s

The issue of the Mk for the Burma one is off, as noted the Mk.II was an early war BoB version, would be nice, but this will probably turn into another legend never to be proven.

Dual Pivot if a road bike, Cantis don’t really belong on them.

I you are looking at a custom frame, why not embrace the future, and at least have disc tabs put on it, the UCI should have ratified discs for road bikes by 2014, and there are new brakes (R515) coming out next year from Shimano; as soon as the UCI say go, everyone will be making road discs.

Any reason why you aren’t using STI’s for the brake levers?

I had a pair of Giro Monaco gloves last year, and they didn’t last too long, but they were nice while they lasted, have replaced with Bravo gloves, which although a lot cheaper I prefer, the fabric palm still feels nice after 2-300km where as the leather on the Monaco’s would get nasty, was great for short distance though.

I also like the Aldi gloves, we are due for one of their bike selection sales, and the fingerless gloves should be in it, normally they go for £4-5.

The (potential) buyer is Accell, who own Koga, Lapierre & Ghost among others.

Would see the move as very good, as it’s a long time since Raleigh have made anything decent. Once they got rid of the Special Products Division, they seemed to die, the budget area of their market has been taken by supermarkets, and the low end has lots of competition they never had in the 70’s-90’s. Hopefully Accell can refocus / rejuvinate the brand.

Get the long cage, was running a medium cage on a 11-34 and it wasn’t great, changed to a long, no problems, if you want to be technical, look up the Max T count for the RD, and do the math to see if it will work.

Quadra 10’s weren’t exactly good forks BITD. MAG10/21’s was where it was at.

Nothing wrong with any forks on low end bikes, just don’t expect them to last, having ridden with people using the basic Suntour / Specialized forks they work fine, but seem to finish the rides with less part than they started with. For servicing though, that’s take off and replace time.

Apparently he was executing a ‘standard’ return to base manoeuvre.

Saw this on another forum, and a that was the response from an active US Army Apache pilot

edit, 3rd post down here describes it well , it’s the Return to Target turn

Great description from Trailflow.

For the fork, assuming you have the stock fork, Marzocchi Marathon LR, is this set up for you? have you tried adjusting the +/- air pressure? see here for the manual

If you have tried this and you still want a different fork, as you appear to have limited knowledge of bikes, thiking that it would be cheapest in the long run to go to a good LBS, and buy a fork from them, and get them to fit and set up.

Tomac (the brand) has been through several different owners since it was born, currently based in Santa Cruz CA. Over here, they were carried by Hotlines until Evolution took them over late last year.

I’ve got at Automatic 120, which will be getting it’s first proper ride later this week if the weather holds (otherwise keeping the winter hardtail out for a while longer)

Really hard question to answer, if you bike is clean, you will be able to pick up any issue as or before they happen.

Areas to keep clean chain / gears and the stanchions / seals on your forks & rear shock if you have one.

Anything else isn’t going to worry too much about being dirty.

For servicing, depending on your forks, they either have a schedule like Fox, go on for ever with out being touched like old Marzocchi, or are disposable like most OEM Suntours with other brands being somewhere in the middle of this, for everthing else on the bike, like gears, wheels etc, if it feels wrong, loose etc, then it probably needs some work / service on it.

How slow do you drive! it’s about 30 mins in the car to Chicksands from Knebworth

Used one on the road for about a year with no problem of it uncliping, till one day I found that the packs mount had broken and was hanging half off.

Replaced with an old seat pack, which straps on, and used the saddle clips for one of the semi-integrated lights. won’t be going back to the seatpack either.

The 3 listing all have different forks and front triangles, not seeing any similarty apart from the title of the listing

The 3 listing all have different forks and front triangles, not seeing any similarty apart from the title of the listing

Not wanting to put a downer on it, but you will be competing with the Park Tools site which pretty much covers everything on a bike maintenance / repair wise less suspension. There are also the great Shimano Techdoc which cover all their instalations, SRAM FSA & Campagnolo have similar.

Looking at areas they don’t cover may give people more reason to look at a different site, wheel building is always an interesting one, but there is the Jobst Brant book, and Wheelpro book which cover this.

Fork maintenance is interesting, especally for the lower end ones, but if spares are not avaliable, is there much point in showing how to maintain them?

Thinking you need a USP that the others don’t have, would look to see what they don’t have but you do.

Have found both to mist up in the cold, my vented Jawbones seem to need a lot of air pushed through them to prevent this, not an issue on the road, no so good off, only have non-vented Radar’s, and when it’s real cold & dry they are good, but when damp and above freezing, they do mist up abit.

For use, I prefer the Radar’s, as the Jawbones have a built-in blind spot with the frame, which the Radar doesn’t. The Radar does have the issue that the lens is a pain to remove, harder than the M Frames, and depending on the frame material, can cause a lot of damage to the nose area finish; where as the Jawbone is really easy to swap lens.

Have a look at the Wakefield Wheel as well for an easy starter, you can find signs for it around the area’s that Chip has mentioned, or pick up a route map from Pugneys