Are you asking about the caliper to go with your M525 levers or complete brake?

If just the caliper, why not get a complete Deore M596 brake?

Nice as M675 calipers are, it will be expensive for you to upgrade with your current M525 levers. You need a banjo type hose for the M675 caliper (BH90) in addition to the caliper, as your current calipers have a straight hose, and can’t be used

For the cost (and probably a lot less) of the hose and caliper, you can get a pre-bled complete M596 brake.

What do you have at them moment? Cross bars are just road bars, so only really the choice of 38-46cm.

Go to a good LBS, and have them look at the shock bushing, reducers & bearing, all / some may need to be replaced.

The seller has them listed as ‘used’ which still means they must be fully working according to ebay conditions, if they aren’t working, they have to be listed as ‘for parts or not working’ so if you chose to get one, and it was defective, you could legitimately claim that it was not as described.

Where are you mounting it? on a stem, using the supplied mount unless you can get a spacer, even with a angled mini-b plug, can’t see it fitting.

If on a handlebar (with the supplied mount), or using an extender mount, like Garmin Out-Front, SRAM Quickview, K-edge or 3D printed version, the USB port will be unobstructed, so no issues with connecting a cable.

You need to measure the seat tube on your frame , that determines the size, not your seatpost.

Acetone / Nail polish remover (not the acetone free version)

Bikepedia says my hubs are a Shimano Deore M535 centre lock.

Bikepedia is great for info for bikes in stock / from the factory, in US spec.

As you have the bike can’t you visually check what you have?, not guess that a website is correct in saying what your bike came out of the factory with?

Without even looking at the part number of the hub, you can visually check it if is centerlock/IS/even disc without touching the wheel. If it is a M535, this will be printed on the hub centre.

Would do the math on the cost effectiveness of replacement the axle/bearing vs buying a new wheel, what condition are the spokes, rim & cones in, vs getting a replacement wheel.

Shimano BH59

KMC, SRAM, Connex, what’s your budget? what colour(s)do you want?

Had a look over the new regs, and apart from the info from Royal Mail being useless, as all the important stuff, like the sizing specs was down within the doc, not a the forefront like it should be.

Not a lot of change if you are only sending smallish packages, large ones will be a lot more though. They are still carrying on with 1st and 2nd class which is a shame, as it’s still feels as though they are stuck in the 1800’s not the 21st century.

The Son Edelux is very good, have been using one for the last 2 years, prefer this to the cheaper option of the B&M LUMOTEC IQ Cyo, these are about half the price or less than a Edelux, I had one of these, and after about 6 months use, it snapped at the bracket mount, the Edelux can’t do this as the body is alu, not plastic.

For the beam produced, there wasn’t a noticeable change when I went from the IQ to the Edelux. Also have a Supernova E3 fitted to another bike, and prefer the Edelux to this.

If you are looking at a German brand, would look at ordering from one of the German suppliers, as they are normally a lot cheaper than any UK suppliers.

For the connector, if you look at it, you have 2 bare wires from the light, and these are sandwiched into the grey/black connector cap & cover, this is easier than SON hubs, where the wires need to be crimped to spade connectors; although the dis-advantage of this, is you need to be careful when removing the wheel, as you can pull the connector cap assembly apart, though it is reassemble.

For the tail light it’s just a case of running a cable from the tail light to the front, crimping the appropriate connector.

Whatever you are looking at, have found with Dynamo LED’s the light output is poor until it’s really dark, then they are great.

Continental GP4 seasons are good although not cheap, as are Schwalbe Durano’s and Michelin Pro4 Endurance.

What width are you looking at using, 23f/25r is a nice combo.

As raininhat, would keep an eye on the weather, no point in riding if icy, as one off could wreck the rest of the year.

Oops looks as though I bought the last one, Hoping for some decent weather to use them in will arrive soon. Ty for the PSA

Jockey/pulley wheels, one can seize and take out the whole drive train

A chain is a chain, the more you pay, the nicer it will look, and lighter it will be, there won’t be much difference in functionality though.

What alternative to a powerlink are you looking at? KMC and SRAM and others are all virtually the same design for 9 speed, only Shimano with their proprietary pin are different, all systems work well, but the powerlink is easier if you need to undo the chain, as the Shimano is single use, and the powerlink for 9 speed is re-usable.

You can pick up PC951’s or PC971 for £9.99 or PC991’s from £14.99 which are nice and shiny.

Cos they cost a lot more, and have a hinge mechanisms / small switch below the rear of the O on the main frame, and if you didn’t get the photochromatic version, you got a 2nd lens with them when you purchased them, unlike regular Radars

Yes, Path, Pitch and Range are all interchangeable, Radarlock lenses are not.

When did the confirmation mail say it was dispatched? Should only take a few days from DE to UK, 10 days seem a long time to have not received it.

39 miles is 62.76km, in 2 hours, that an average of almost 32kmh, are you really sure you can sustain that for 2 hours.

Mudguards are almost essential for commuting, as others have mentioned, in addition to a rack and panniers, which will make life more comfortable than a rucksack.

From the suggestions above, the Kaffenback with discs is good, have been using a non-disc version for the last 5-6 years, great bike, but loaded, with decent all weather tires, 32kmh constant would be pushing it.

Can’t see buying parts individually being a cheap option,, like MTB’s and road bikes, getting a complete package is almost always cheaper than individual parts, add to this CX parts are lower volume, and some are unique like the cranks, and a CX specific crank set isn’t cheap.

There are a lot more CX bikes on ebay now at the price(£400-£450) you are looking at than there were a few weeks ago, but stating price has little relation to finishing price.

The roads around Leeds Bradford a rough

Contact the council, I did a couple of weeks ago for one in East Ardsley, and they did reply, agreeing that the road needs fixing, unfortunately no timescale on itLeeds Council

£5 off £35 , here are a few

110A1BA4409
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When you bought from bike-discount.de, you did pay the VAT @ 19%, when buying with in the EU, VAT is paid in the source country, and there are no import duty charges in the receiving country.

i’ve reused plenty of sram links didn’t realise weren’t intended to!

Only SRAM 10 speed ones (Powerlinks), 9 speed are designed to be reused, and are a very similar design to the 10 speed KMC ones, which can also be reused.

Shimano 10 speed road chains 5700/6700/7900 are directional specific, from the techdocs

In order to obtain good gear shifting performance,
this chain has a forward side and a reverse side, and
the sides are marked so that the chain will face the
correct way when installed.

9 speed and other 10 speed aren’t, also, 10s triples need a non-directional chain.

No reason why you can’t use a quick link with Shimano, KMC have the best 10 speed quick link currently available, as it’s reusable, the SRAM isn’t (offically)

Buy this one, then you’ll have no regrets my friend

Nice as the Pro Carbons is, it is very outdated geometry wise, road bikes have moved on from the compact frame, add to this, unless you have a large, the ability to use a water bottle is compromised, especially on the seat tube. (have had an SL Pro for about 5 years now)

The RT-57 and NA2 do look very nice, and have a much more current look then the Pro Carbon.

Both links are bad/incomplete, agree with Merlin being a good shop to deal with.

What ever you choose, fit is very important, you can upgrade parts as they wear out, fit you can’t.

What’s the budget you are looking at? I got at Drossiger from Merlin late last year, great value for money, and they have them in 52cm size. Having a quick look on ebay, there isn’t much there, and nothing is particularly cheap.

Sean Penn even more so.

Plenty here

Have a pair of Jawbones ones, perfect fit, colors which Oakley don’t do, liking that they now do clear ones.

Got them from their ebay store, with no problems, can’t see why the service would be any different buying from their store.

General consensus on here seems to be they are very good, several guys I ride with have moved to they as well, just about all the benefits of the SLX/XT, but at much less cost.

Your budget tight for any hydraulic discs, if you can stretch a little, Shimano Deore M596 are very good value for money, but you will need to get adaptors / rotors as well.

I disagree, my 105 are adequate at best, and the rear keeps seizing

If they keep on seizing, you need to look at why, cable routing, worn spring or another reason, have been using 5700/105 for the last 2 years, and they are just as good as 6700/Ultegra.

Also have a bike running CX75’s since early Jan, have put on getting on 1000km on them, and they have worked great, although setting them up is harder than the R505’s they replaced, as they need several different hex wrenches as the L/R sides take different sizes.

STX RC are just that bit nicer with the chrome finish if you spend a bit more / find them, they also have cartridge pads which the STX don’t have.

The Al Fresco looks to be a clone of a Cannondale Bad Boy / 29er wannabe with the knobbly tires

As is, it looks Ok, but seeing a severe lack of mudguard / rack possibility, which really is essential for a hybrid; you will want mudguards unless you are a fair weather rider, and a rack is very useful depending on how much you carry.

Dynamo hub & B&M ewerk/ USB-werk

They can be reused, but feel much looser than proper (KMC) ones do, so stick with KMC now, which can be reused.

Don’t think cynic-al meant the screws could be seized, rather the mech it’s self, the screws are limit stoppers, and you should be able to move the mech with in the limits of the screws by hand if no cable is attached.

From your description, sounds like the mech / parallelogram is seized