I’ve not done the same trail centre on different bikes but I definitely had a lot more fun doing Afan (Penhydd and The Wall) on my Blur 4X than CYB on my 100mm hardtail

Fortunately I shop around so can’t get anything like a true reflection of my bike spend (a mere £450 since 2005 at CRC)

Brant – that was the one. Ta

There was a thread on the old forum which had links to some video of a frame being tested and flexed. I can’t remember what it was though. The amount of flex was amazing, although which part of the frame was flexing I couldn’t say. Anyone remember this and have a link?

I’ve not had it happen so cant help with advice on stopping it happen again but I think I have one or two olives in the shed. Where are you (I’m in West London)?

Hoop guides are the devils work. It staggers me that anyone ever thought they were a good idea.

Nobby Nick front, Racing Ralph rear. Surprisingly grippy given the low tread depth. I have been running Racing Ralphs on my 29er all winter (although they are not ideal mud tyres I’d be the first to admit)

So what frame are we talking about here?

Mine are 29″, by the way

I have had a set for 6 months or so, although they havent had that much use. I am 80kg, ride them rigid and haven’t been shy of small drops etc. So far they have stayed perfectly true.

How heavy are those bikes? They look like 50lbs

Armstrong comes across as a nob in that video IMO. Self-righteous crap.

(FWIW, I chose to believe Armstrong has always been clean)

Someone on here recommended A2Z pads. I got the “Competition Super Sintered Disc Brake Pads” from Woollyhatshop – £18 for two sets. Only just started using them but they seem great so far – a bit more “bite” (in a good way) than standard Shimano sintered pads.

£9 delivered: http://www.woollyhatshop.com/view_product.php?id=2465

Another vote for Avast although I have yet to work out how to schedule a scan!

Don’t move or slip but mine is ripping where one of the straps goes through it – the rubber is very soft.

There is always a bit of fun to be had no matter where in London you live. I live near Richmond Park, which is rubbish but there are loads of steps, small drops etc to mess about on locally, plus cheeky stuff in the Park if you are that way inclines (which I am not in this sort of weather – causes too much damage on the cheeky trails)

I like the photos, by the way!

I’ve not had an issue. Ordered a pair of shorts at lunch time yesterday. They arrived this morning. Marvellous 🙂

That is a tight tolerance! What bike is it to have such short chainstays?

Regarding geometry, according to the specs, and both measured with a 100mm fork (I believe):

Blur 4X (large)
Head Angle: 68.5
Seat Angle: 73.5
Effective Top Tube: 597mm

Commencal 4X (large)
Head Angle: 69.5
Seat Angle: 73
Effective Top Tube: 579mm

So the Commy is shorter but has slightly steeper angles. Obviously, with the ubiquitous set of Pikes, the angles are going to be a bit slacker all round.

The Commy also has 100mm rear travel vs the B4X of 115mm (if that makes any difference)

I dont know what the ODI ones are like but the Lizardskins are the same lock-on fitting as my Bonty Big Earls but different to the On-One grips that came with my Scandal, if that helps at all.

Cheaper for the driver than the parking ticket he/she should have got.

Not necessarily. The glass in my mirrors is auto dimming and cost £130 for the part only!

But to the original question, I would like to think that I would leave my details and pay for the damage but in reality I suspect I would just carry on and curse the owner of the car for blocking a right of way. I am not as principled as I would like 😉

(which is what has happened three times to my car parked on the road, perfectly legally, outside my house)

Now we are all wishing we had started this thread 🙂

Nice. The E-120 is a lovely bike. Sounds like great service all round.

So those who liked the “bonking” theme didn’t feel that 17 pages was overkill for what was, in effect, one article (the boundaries between the articles we’re blurred to say the least).

Bonking hurts, bonking hurts, bonking hurts, drink more water and eat more carbs. And then for a change, bonking in the snow hurts and riding ‘cross hurts.

We all like different things 🙂 I found the umpteenth article on bonking a bit dull tbh. One or two articles, fine.. but 17 pages (plus another 5 for the arctic-conditions-race story which was in the same vein)!

Does it have pockets? – No pockets, pit zips or features of any sort on the Gill/Wiggle eVent jacket. Could be considered a bonus (pockets will only reduce breatheability)

eVent is worth is IMO. I also have the Gill Pro Speed that IHN mentioned. Noticeably better breathing than cheaper waterproof jackets I have had and my Gore-Tex XCR shell (skiing but I use it for general purpose)

Singletrack gave the Altura Attack Extreme jacket a “Recommendation” in the last issue and claimed it was the best bike jacket on the market. On sale here (still nearly £100 though): http://www.cyclesportsuk.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=6090 Meant to be similar to eVent but slightly less soft but more robust. This is where my money would be going if I were in the market for a jacket now.

Eldrik – I used “On Your Bike” on the South Bank to service some Pace RC36 forks 3 or 4 years ago. They seemed like good guys and I had no problems with the forks afterwards. Nice shop too, although they haven’t really embraced the internet age!

n Your Bike London:
52-54 Tooley Street
London Bridge, SE1 2SZ
Telephone: 020 7378 6669
Fax: 020 7357 7600
Email: london@onyourbike.com

Regarding Halfords, although I have never used them for any service work (do they even do it?) Bike Hut opened a new shop in Twickenham and the guys in there couldn’t be nicer and more helpful, including ringing round the “competitors” when I was looking for a service kit for my XT disc brakes. I was amazed. (I have no connection, by the way!)

What did yo have on it before? Might the Pace have a longer axle-to-crown length?

Alternatively, and i know you have said it isn’t the tyres, the only time I have had anything like you describe was when I didn’t have enough air in my Nobby Nik front tyre and the side-wall collapsed under cornering. But you wouldn’t think this would affect riding straight!

Or, have you checked your headset? Is the crown race properly fitted? Does the wheel look straight in the forks (not mis-aligned somehow)?

Are they definitely 100mm? I don’t know the Pace range tbh but I thought RC41s were longer than 100mm.

This might be a really stupid question but have you got them the right way round? On Pace forks the arch goes on the back.

P7 on the bars and Fenix TK-11 on the helmet is the perfect cheap combination IMO. THe TK-11 has a pronounced spot that is significantly brighter than the P7.

1 hr on max. But easy to extend that by switching to Medium for climbs, flats etc.

psychle – Have you washed the Stealth jacket? And if so, with detergent? Doing this made my waterproof shorts decidedly unwaterproof but Nikwax sorted them out.

FWIW, my Gill eVent jacket has stayed waterproof so far but I have only worn it for about 90mins in torrential rain.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=244

15 degree inward angle

🙂 I have the same torch for the same reason.

LOL. That would be several times. Tescos torches are undoubted value but I’d pay the extra for the TK-11 just to avoid the DIY hassle or as someone else has already said, get another P7 and mod that. The TK-11 is a better head torch though – its spot is noticeable against the flood of a P7.

OP stated the cost as £26.80. TK-11 is £52. Looks like twice the price to me 😉

(TK-11 has the same runtime and lumens as the mod he is thinking of doing to the Tescos specials)

Twice the price but twice as easy and probably better quality of torch and of output: Fenix TK-11

It is the perfect helmet torch to go with a P7 – which is better on your bars than on your helmet (flood on bars, spot on helmet) IMO

Rich. What are the benefits of running the batteries in series? Parallel = increased burn time right? I would imagine series therefore meant brighter but can the LED run brighter?

I am sure this has been covered before but I can’t remember – sorry!