Might count as boutique and hard to find now (might have to be 2nd hand) but Santa Cruz Blur 4X

Has anyone ridden all three of the Ragley frames (Blue Pig, mmmBop and Ti)? How different do they feel? I assume at least Brant has 😉

Re the handling, the extra fork length is less than an inch and I assume the OP would have more sag on 120mm fork than a 100m fork, so we are probably talking about 1/2 an inch longer fork once he is sat on the bike. Personally I don’t think I would notice too much difference in handling (I didn’t when I ran my Rebas at 115mm rather than 100mm on my old Tinbred anyway – with the same sag)

I am quite insensitive about bike set up though 😉

What forks and what frame are we talking about here?

The issue is primarily the extra force the forks will place on the frame head tube as a result of being a longer lever than 120mm forks. I wouldn’t worry too much about the impact on handling although you might want to lower your bars to put them back in the same position as they would have been on a 100mm fork.

All this assumes the axle-to-crown length on the new forks is 20mm longer than the ones you were originally after.

Does anyone have a photo where this “lirtle plastic inserts” goes?

Edited to add:

My Hayes MAGs were bled like this, but the windscreen washer tubing was the right size so you could do away with the “special” plastic adapter to fit between the hose and the lever

On my old Hayes MAGs I used to stick some windscreen washer tubing (the same I used to connect the syringe and caliper bleed nipple) in to the bleed hole on the lever. I thought the design was the same on the HFX9s. The outer dimensions of the tubing was a perfect fit.

I always where a helmet when I get on my bike, road or off-road. I spend probably 10 times more time off-road but have hit my head probably 5 times more often on-road*. For me, I suspect I get more “value” wearing my helmet on the roads rather than mountain biking.

27 1/2 lbs seems pretty damn light to me, although I do find people’s scales seem to vary 😉

Hose down first then in to machine.

We’ll be talking about knitting patterns next 😉

I get this message when trying to go to the Pace site:

“This web site at http://www.pace-racing.co.uk has been reported as an attack site and has been blocked based on your security preferences.”

Looks like they have been hacked 🙁

Cannondale Prophet would be my vote for a versatile all-rounder. May be a bit burly if you want something strictly “xc”

Penhydd followed by Whytes Trail at Afan is about 3 hrs, perhaps a bit more. I haven’t done W2 at Afan but suspect it is a similar length. You can connect all sorts of trails together easily enough at Afan to do a full day of riding without repeating yourself

Yes, unless you have a hub that can be converted e.g. Hope ProII

I can’t imagine using a tyre more fragile than a RR or NN for non-race purposes. As much as I love both these tyres I put a 2″ split in the side wall of a RR riding at barely more than a walking pace going up a woody hill in the Chilterns (I assume on a flint). Anything even less robust than NN/RR is unsuitable for general riding around IMO.

You had a 4-inch gash to the bone less than 2 weeks ago which is infected and you can’t bend your leg fully. I don’t think you really need to ask the question.

But if you really want to push your luck, try a light ride now and see how it feels. Personally I would stay off the bike a bit longer.

Don’t pay full RRP for Racing Ralphs. There was a thread a couple of days ago about cheaper places to get them (I think it was Merlin) or http://www.bike24.com/

Link not working (direct link)

Can’t help with where to get them (I got some off the Classifieds here) but just to say, they are great tyres 🙂

LOL. No, not ridden MM (my recommendation was based on “normal” mixed dry/mud conditions, which appears to be irrelevant for this discussion).

Sounds like a bike might be the wrong form of transport 😉

Racing Ralphs are brilliant all-rounders. Although not a mud tyre, my 2.4″s performed well enough through the winter that I didn’t bother taking them off.

I did replace the rear with a Maxxis Ardent because the 2.4 RR was a bit wide for my frame and it seems to be similar in terms of grip and drag (lack of).

I stole this from someone on the web a while ago. I am sure they won’t mind me copying it here (I hope!)

Sorry is is so long, but it might be useful.

2007 Models Axel to Crown

Corsa WC 80mm 464mm
Corsa WC 100mm 474mm
XC700 SL 464-504mm
XC600 474mm
XC500 474mm
Z1 RC2 538mm
Drop Off 3 538mm
AM SL 1 511-551mm
AM 2 531mm
AM 3 531mm
4X WC ?
DJ 1 483mm
DJ 2 483mm
DJ 3 483mm
Dirt Jam Pro 483mm
66 SL 1 ATA 525-565mm
66 RC2X 565mm
66 RC2 ETA 565mm
888 WC 584mm
888 SL ATA 554-584mm
888 RC2X VA 584mm
888 RV 584mm
Super T RCV 574mm
MX Pro ETA 508mm
MX Pro ETA 488mm
MX Pro 488mm
MX Pro 468mm
MX Comp 1″ 468mm
MX Pro I.S. 488mm

CANNONDALE

lefty 140 spv : 510 mm

FOX

vanilla R 2005: 510 mm
Talas RL 2004: 490 mm
Talas RLC 2006: 503mm
vanilla 2004 un peu moins de 500 mm
Float 80mm : 451mm
100mm : 471mm

36 Talas(2006) en 150mm : 535mm
en 110mm : 495mm
36VAN RC2 (2006) en 160: 545mm
40 (2006) : en 178mm : 546mm
————– en 203mm : 571mm

MARZO

Z1 130mm drop off QR20: 503mm (2001)
Z1 FR SL (2003) 530 mm
Z1 FR 130 (2005): 518mm
Z1 FR 150 (2005): 538 mm
Z1 MCR (2001)130: 510mm
Z1 LIGHT ETA 150mm (2006): 538.5mm
Z3 Flylight 100mm (2000): 500mm
Z5 air en 100 (2001): 478 mm
888 (2005) en 200mm, 605mm
888 (2005) en 170mm, 575mm
888 (2006) en 200mm: 579mm
66 (2005) en 170mm, 595mm
66 (2005) en 150mm, 575mm
66 (2006) en 170mm: 555mm
66 (2006) en 150mm: 535mm
Marathon S millésime 2002 100mm -> 480 mm
Marathon S 120mm (2005): 495mm
Marathon XC 120mm 2005: 495mm
MX Comp en 105mm: 478 mm
MX Comp en 105mm (2006): 484.3mm
MX Comp en 120 mm : 493 mm
MX Comp en 120mm (2006): 499mm
MX Comp en 85 mm : 458 mm
MZ comp en 100 mm: 488 mm
EXR PRO en 105 mm: 478 mm
EXR PRO en 120 mm: 493 mm
all mountain 110 498mm
all mountain 130: 518 mm
all mountain 150 (2005): 538 mm
all mountain 150 (2006): 541.5mm
DJ2 2004 = 500mm
DJ en 100 mm (2005): 488 mm
DIRT JUMPER (2006) en 100mm: 483.5mm
shiver sc 120 mm : 510 mm
shiver DC: 572mm
Junior T 2003/2004/2005: 555mm
Junior T 2001 = 540mm
Monster en 200 mm: 595 mm

ROCK SHOX
MAGURA THOR 520mm
pike: 517mm
Lyric en 160mm: 545mm +/- 5mm
Domain en 180mm: 565mm +/- 5mm
Totem en 180mm: 565mm +/- 5mm
Reba 85mm: 458mm
Reba en 100 mm : 473 mm
reba 115mm: 488mm
Boxxer 04 (178mm de débattement), 555mm en position basse
Boxxer 2005 race, team et world cup en 203mm : 570mm en position basse
Psylo SL uturn : 510 mm
Duke XC 80 mm 2004 : 460 mm
Duke C (année inconnue) 80 mm de dbt : 440 mm
Pilot en 100mm : 475mm
SID RACE 80mm: 442mm
SID SL 2001 80mm: 450mm
SID 1998 63mm : 435mm
Revelation 130mm (2006): 508mm
Revelation 100mm (2006): 478mm

PACE

Distance RC 39 modèle 2005 en 100 mm: 470mm
RC41 Fighter en 150mm 2006: 524mm

MANITOU

Axel Elite 100mm : 480mm
Skareb Super TPC 100mm (modéle 2005): 475 mm
Black Platinum (Reglage maximum):515mm
black comp 2002: 475mm en debat 100mm
Stance Flow:502/532mm
Stance Kingpin: 540mm
Stance Static 80mm: 460mm
Stance Static 100mm: 480mm
Dorado DH: 542.5mm
Sherman Breakout Plus: 512/552mm
Sherman Flick Plus: 492/532mm
Sherman Firefly Plus: 492/532mm
Sherman Jumper: 455mm
Sherman Jumper 110mm : 480mm
Sherman Slider Plus: 540mm
Nixon Platinum/Super/Elite: 518mm
Minute 1/2/3: 505mm
Minute 3 (en 100mm): 470 mm
Millenium: 505mm
Splice 100 mm: 505mm
Splice Elite 130mm : 525mm
R7 (2006) en 100mm: 470mm

MAGURA

Big Ego en 185 mm : 580 mm
Thor en 150 mm : 535 mm
Ronin en 110 mm : 483 mm
Phaon en 125 mm : 504 mm
Asgard en 100 mm : 476 mm
Asgard en 80 mm : 456 mm
Vidar en 80 mm : 456 mm
Quake 115 double té: 525 mm

Mtbing is fashionable?

I like the Bolle saftey glasses but they scratch really easily and fog up. So when I say I like them I mean that they fit and they are cheap! Functionally they are a bit crap IMO.

I’m sure some people here must be retarded and fitting them wrong?

Not sure I am allowed to laugh at that comment (PC filter and all that). Mine seized almost solid after about 3 months. The three other BB’s (all XT)I have fitted have lasted 1 yr+. It is possible I had a “retarded” moment fitting that particular BB though 😉

http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/whyte-e120-owners

I don’t have a Superstar vendetta but was disappointed my Superstar BB lasted less than 6 months of light use. I didn’t buy another one.

Taz – when you say “big ..nose” is your nose broad? I have a broad ridge to my nose so find glasses often sit too high on my face and I usually have to go for glasses with wire nose pieces that I can open up a little. Do you fit this description (and therefore the glasses might fit me)?

A couple of days, I seem to remember

Its been out for a while (a month or so?) and is excellent, again. Not cheap but worth it. Makes you want to get out on your bike (if you need any extra motivation).

Race – cut a slot in it with a hacksaw and just slide it on

Cups – I just “bash them in with a mallet” but surely a “proper” headset press is self-explanatory?

My theory is that you can’t stop them being nicked if the thieves really want them (see others’ points above) so other than obvious, sensible security measures I rely on insurance paying out in the event of theft. Its only a bike(s) and the agro my wife would give me if I kept 4 bikes in the kitchen just isn’t worth it!

If you still need one: LKF9U-3LM37

I live in Berkamsted now – can I join in the fun 🙂

andylaightscat – I will PM you.

Edit – Can you do PM’s on the new forum? I can’t see how.

andylaightscat – could you email me (email in profile)?

I suspect you pass on the polishing and just live with a small spot that isn’t as shiny as the rest. Either that or find some high gloss clear nail varnish 😉

VPP creaking has been covered a fair bit over on the mtbr forum. Assuming it isn’t breaking our forum rules, here is a link to the most relevant post:

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=240336

You need to be a member to see photos

Singular Swift is top of my list if/when it comes time to replace my Scandal 29er. Very nice and Sam is a top bloke to deal with.

I get mystery contamination of my rear disks/pads. I have put it down to my bad technique when applying chain oil, which I am now doing much more carefully and less liberally. So far it seems to be working. I suspect you have done something similar. It is also worth checking if the calliper is leaking at all.

I thought Pikes were ‘de rigeur’ on a Stiffee 😉

Tubs are a pain for day-to-day riding as you have to carry two spare tubs and tub tape around with you. Good ones are also pretty expensive. If I were you I would buy a couple of cheap tubs and see how you get on with them. If you don’t like them you can rebuild the hubs as you suggested.

http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/shimano-xt-disc-pad-recommendations#post-257725

My vote goes to A2Z at Woolly Hat Shop (£10)
http://www.woollyhatshop.com/view_product.php?id=2466