I agree with mboy about waiting for frozen conditions or a “dry” spell if such a thing exists, I tend to stick to the fire roads or ride somewhere else after this level of rain, it will be with no exageration hub deep in mire.

As per Mantastic try and link up with the group rides that meet at the Duke William.

It would be no use at all :)

Jes – looked at the Uzzi but think it just too much bike for what I want

Bit more adjustment on the Uzzi, feels a bit bigger (shallower seat tube)and the BB feels slightly higher, have to run 170 cranks and 180 forks to get any clearance on the SS1.
The SS is very flickable and perfect for the technical DH single track runs but the Uzzi is will be more forgiving if your clocking up DH runs with bigger features/speed.
I also thought the Uzzi pedalled a bit better with the coil shock when I first rode it, but the SS with an air shock is better but wouldn’t want to run that setup in the Alps.
How about an SS2?

So good I have two :) I would recommend 180 mm forks (ran Talas last year) when pointing down.
By day 2-3 of hitting braking bumps at warp speed you will probably yearn for a bit more travel though, the Uzzi would be slightly better.

Running two bikes with Rohloff shifters (original and light) with Hope V2 tech levers, works fine, can’t do pictures till the weekend.

Oh well still no sign of my frame (ordered and paid for on the 28/10/2012)and not heard from the seller since the 2/11/2012

Not left with much choice but to open a resolution case, unfortunatley I am sure I had issues with this guy a few years ago in a similiar way which is why the alarm bells started ringing but gave him the benefit of the doubt and was a bit distracted at the time resulting in waiting to long before doing anything about it.
I had forgot about this until things started going a bit gash.

Crosses fingers I at least get the money back.

Didn’t recieve one with my last parcel, bit disappointed :)

Thanks for the feedback tom.

Size small in stock via link on my previous post

Thanks Scapegoat,I had looked at all that but was hoping someone has first hand (hopefully positive)experience.
Made a purchase but it all seems to going a bit …… well I am starting to have concerns, also looking at the web site I recollect the sign post logo and it rings a bell for some reason, possible negative conotations !

?

Here Seems to be the only place that has them in stock on a regular basis, great pads by the way.

I can only suggest seeing if you can remove the spring to try and get it’s dimensions and then try and find something that matches.

Mojo
J-Tech
TF tuned

and others.

Good luck

What forks ?

Superficial – Member

Not sure what forks they were. New upper assembly is ‘only’ ~ £200 from SRAM.

A pair of 11 month old Totem Solo Air which I had paid about £450 for and at the time I could get a new pair from Merlin for £520.
What was more annoying was despite sending away with bags of time (4 weeks +) and constant chasing, Fisher only let the LBS know a few days before an Alps trip, thanks Fisher expensive, wrong diagnosis and poor service, although I suspect the LBS probably contributed to the time issue.

Luckily I had some Fox 160 Vans to fit …….. which I just about got away with but 180 mm of travel would have helped with wear and tear on the hands and arms.

I use the fluffy side sticky back velcro.

I’me after one as well, unfortunately they look as they have expired. :(

Started working on mine after being quoted £400 for a new steerer, crown and stanchions after sending away for a service because they had gone a bit stiff.

So I thought I had nothing to loose, cost me £16 oils and bits, took it easy and found out a bit more how forks are put together and function, oh and they work perfectly again.
Quite happy stripping and changing oils in the lowers now.

As per Jamie any one with a spare CRC voucher, after a lengthy search just got an e-bay bargain frame and need cranks and headset to complete bits to build.

Cheers

jes

Excellent, thank you Marvin your a star new kit ordered :)

Arrr too slow, any one else got a CRC voucher they aren’t using ?

This is mine, rode a bit harsh, waiting for a bargain steel frame to pop up.

Excellent effort that is very high off the ground in the centre !
I keep looking at that tree and other options nearer home and think shall I have a go ……. I suspect I need to be in perfect form to get away with it, which rarely occure :)

Changed to a standard bolt Hope seat clamp once I was happy with the intial height setting.
I found getting the right tension is easier than with a QR.

When I saw the x-ray I knew it wasn’t good news, unfortunatley all four had decided to grow horizontally, with the roots pointing back towards my ears :)
Surgery required to get the badgers out, all good after a couple of weeks :)

Used ride everywhere with a saddle height too high for steep techy stuff and too low for ideal pedalling, dropper posts allow the best of both worlds, doesn’t make me any faster but makes a ride more fun :)

Wow your like the Derek Zoolander of the bike world – an omni hopper :)

No I love it just need a few different techniques to make it simples, a proper setup is the easiest option and ignore the crap that used to pop up in magazines etc about running lower pressures, run tyre at the same pressure you would with a tube to avoid pinch flats to stop it burping at least 30 psi.

Read somwhere that it rolls better due reduction of friction between the tyre and tube when the tyre deforms, it does roll better but not sure that’s the reason though :)

Can you see the the pictures from the camera ?

Older card readers may not recognise new high capacity/speed cards (32/64 gb).
Have you tried importing the pictures with the sd card in the camera and linked to the PC via dock or USB cable.

I used to be able to do all sorts of nice stuff, high Rx with correction for wrap and panoscopic tilt, polarised lenses with mirror coating into Oakley’s.

However presently running with Rudy Project Zyon & Noyz with Rx adaptor which is small enough to take a wider range of lens powers and clips into the nose piece.
Get optical centres (OC) glazed 3-5 mm above the horizontal cente line (HCL or Datumn)to improve distortion when lent over in the riding position unless your doing DH.
Fogs a bit when stopped but no issues when moving.

Same answer as MTBR.

5′ 10″ on a medium, presently set up for DH but will be changing it back to AM/FR setup.

Sounds like radiation sickness, didn’t mess with the damper unit did you?
I read somewhere on STW some manufacturers use spent uranium to fashion components for the rebound damping. :D

Run 2 sets of V2’s on a 160 and 180 mm FS bikes and they are bomb and Alps proof even for a biffer but overkill on a hard tail.
Run 2 older sets of M4’s one on a AM 160 and a HT great for UK trail and light DH duties and would have even better modulation with the Tech levers.

Not used X2’s but heard good things though, may be an option if your fairly light.

M4’s FTW I think.

Amtrack Wars (series) – Patrick Tilly
Dune (series) – Frank Herbert
Foundation (series) – Isaac Asimov
I Robot – Isaac Asimov

Used to be a big fan of GT stuff having owned a Zaskar, RTS & LTS but I think the introduction of the i-drive, tepid magazine reviews and percieved quality issues at the time killed it for them.

May get a boost and credibility points from the Athertons being on board though.

GT RTS

I’ve got to Wolverhampton and Stourbridge from Kidderminster and from Worcester to near the Bromgrove/Redditch highway (Tarbigge?) but never joined them up.

M4 for general UK use, V2 for DH or Alps stuff – 203 mm rotors.
Great modulation on both, especially with Tech levers. (16.5 stone)

I’ve got one like the styling in AD200 future cop way, very light but it does get warm and is in essence a glorified pi$$ pot/skate helmet.

The Urge was a repalcement after headbutting a rock with a Fox Flux which is the best fitting helmet I have used with excellent ventilation and adjustment.