Mrs Wachowchow and myself had to bail out of the woods by 8:30 last night due to lack of light. Soon be Christmas!

I have used VW transporters as a daily driver for many years. From and old type 2, T4 and now a T5 California. After also driving Transits and Vito’s, the VW is definitely my prefered option.
If you are looking for a conversion, I looked into this a lot before taking the plunge with the California, I would recommend a Reimo rock and roll bed/rear seat. Though they are expensive to fit, they are TUV approved and crash tested equipment, they also fit to rails which gives extra flexibilty in where the seat is positioned meaning you can have a load bay at the back of in the side door by sliding the seat in the rails. The seat will also lift out completely if required giving full van mode.

Yes. I have fitted Hope’s to all mine and my friends bikes, when asked, over the years and they are all still going strong. No experience with RF but Shimano last one year max in my experience.
Watch the Hope BB fitting video on Youtube regards bearing preload. This will help it to last longer still.

Love it. Cutest thing I’ve seen today! My boy is only 5 months old but I’m keeping a close eye on ‘what balance bike’ and when to get started.

I’m in!

I use one on my hard tail when commuting, ‘cos the bike has bottle mounts too so I can get away without a pack. Small Topeak one, had it about 15 years.

How did the 2 valuations compare? Did his formula work relative to the first guys ‘finger in the air approach’. I’m sure it was a bit more qualified than that mind.

Alternatively, do what hugelovitt says! :D

I have read on here in the past that some people just tighten them up further and blow the concequenses. However, if you are as OCD about this sort of this as I am I would recommend that you talk to an engineering tool supplier and get a sheet of 0.013″ (0.35mm) shim steel sheet.

Don’t think they would sell many of these turds. Maybe a student design project in their year out?

I love my freeriders. After using Adidas Samba’s 12 for years, then I got some Adidas Berms which I though were pretty good. The five tens are in a different league.
I did need to change my pedals though. I used to have DMR V8’s on one bike and Shimano DX on the other. I found that because the five ten soles are so sticky the pedal would roll if I tried to move my foot around on the pedal, which is not good for ankles. I now have much flatter flat pedals as is the current fashion but they have cured the pedal roll.
The combination is a big improvement.

I have a 9 speed 11-36t XT cassette with a 9 speed shadow SLX rear mech, medium cage and it all works lovely.
If by ‘normal’ you mean the older non shadow type, I could not say with any authority whether it would work or not.

Thanks Spooky, I will have a look in the stand. I am using a 36t Middleburn shifting middle ring and a larger than normal Shimano 26t granny as a double and bash set up on a, what was Shimano SLX triple chain set. I went for the larger granny as I have a 11-36 cassette and didn’t want the lowest gear to silly spinny.

I did the same move. Loved my EA whatevers at 675mm wide. The Haven’s (711mm) have the same cosy Easton shape, they felt wide for about 10 minutes then ideal.
I have the Havocs (750mm) on my full sus to keep that cosy Easton wiggle, now the Havens actually feel a bit narrow.

I love my 661 Raji’s.

Park here too. Never had a problem with them.

I have the Easton Haven bars and stem combo on my XC hardtail (26″) which I use for commuting and XC and find them ideal.
I went for the shiny option rather than carbon though, they look much better IMO.

I’m with you on both counts. Very cool name but riding around knowing that I’m work hardeneing my rear triangle as would worry me.

+1 for East Street in Farnham. Very friendly and helpful bunch in there.
The new shop in Alton also seems friendly enough. Not put any business their way yet so can’t comment on service.

1988, Raleigh Dune Dancer was my first. I was 17. Bought it on the never never from my mums Grattan catalogue! I was hoping it was going to be a BMX for grown ups but it wasn’t quite. It wasn’t until I borrowed a GT Timberline off a friend a few years later that I really got the bug.

Friend of mine had a stuck seat post in a MK 1 Heckler. After trying pretty much everything listed above, we sent the frame to Argos Racing Cycles and they did a fantastic job of reaming the old seatpost out. Cost a few quid but saved the frame. Same size seat post fits just as it used to.

Bandit. Tested one last year. Very nice and sensibly light. Not quite the freight train that the Covert is but a far more nippy climber.

Had a couple of demo rides with Tamed Earth. Loved it. Bought a nice new black one a couple of weeks ago. Haven’t actually ridden it yet :(. Hose tidying and shock set up to do today then it will be ready to roll. Maybe head out for a muddy one later.

I’ve seen this with Elixirs and Juicy’s. Can I ask which make of pad they are?
The ones I have had issue with were Clarks.

Phil,

I reckon £350 the lot (ducks for cover).
The pivot bearings were renewed last year, RP23 is a 2010, forks were serviced by Mojo in 2010 also and the headset was new the same year.

If your mate is interested, get yourselves over to Alton for a cuppa and a look see soon.

Hi Phil, if for whatever reason you don’t have any luck with the bike later. I will be putting my large 2006 Heckler frame (orange) up for sale imminently. Ok, its not a full bike but included will be 2006 Fox vanilla 130 RLC’s, recent RP23, Chris King headset, Thompsen post and XT front mech. Essentially every thing you need to upgrade if you have a bike with disk wheels and brakes already. Email in profile if you are interested. I would like to keep it local and can help with the build / changover if required.
It would be good to see you again also. :-)

I’m 6″ and have been riding a Heckler in large for 6 years, previous to that I had a medium Bullit. I would recommend testing a medium first at 5″ 5.

I just snuck out a crafty little one.

Ha! @ Binners. Good tactics

As above, any grease will do. I often just use silicone Bike Spray on my woods bike as I move the seatpost a lot and it gets cleaned fairly regularly. On my other bike which I do not move the seatpost in very often at all and use mainly on roads so don’t clean it as often I use Copaslip.
http://www.molyslip.co.uk/anti_sieze_compounds/

I have been using this mount on my seat post without any problems. To be fair, it doesn’t instil much confidence when fitting it, it does feel like it may move or snap, but it has been good as gold so far.
I haven’t ridden any downhill world cup courses with it on though.

I got this through the post within 3 day of placing the order last week. Unfortunately I had ordered the £254 option with bleed kit and black collar so I sent it back again. All appeared nice in the box though, just not what I ordered.

I drew a blank on the Hope option for my new Covert last week. Though different cups to what you are after, I went for the Chris King in the end which seem to be around in abundance, just blooming pricey!
Still, they do a brown ano option which looks good against the matt black and isn’t a million miles away from the Kashima finish.

Thanks guys. I like the MMX option then, though I have juicy brakes so will need to investigate further to see if it will help me to keep the bars tidy.
I would rather have the bleed kit so I’m not dependant on a bike shop for tweaking, which is what I ordered.
bol, do you have a number for them? I can only find an email address.
The idea of the ‘enduro clamp’ is to restrict the amount of drop. Basically puts stop on the shaft so you can drop to a set position short of the full 125mm. I saw it on a recent review complete with a statement that it is supplied with 2012 models.
Captain Slow, thanks for the carbon paste tip. I reckon this little nugget of info will have saved my post!
I will get mine back in the post and hope to receive another with bleed kit next week. Ta all

I did the stop crashing course with Ed a couple of years ago with a couple of mates even though I have been riding mtb for nearly 20 years. It was great. I was starting to lose my bottle and he changed my focus from ‘what was going to make me crash’ to ‘what do I need to do to clear a feature’. Worth every penny. I went back and did the flow course last year which was a great progression from the earlier ‘beginner’ course.
In my opinion it doesn’t matter how long you have been riding, to have someone watch what you’re doing to help point out the bad habits you have picked up over the years is invaluable.
Ed’s a great guy, really helpful, calm yet bloody fast and even though they are group rides (usually 6 on a course) everyone gets a bit one to one.. My riding has come along heaps since these courses. I am now riding like a 20 year old again (at least on the descents).
The mental gain is enorm!

I believe that if you have to ask, you already know the answer.

I have a tank in my shed purely for chains and drive train parts. I use Deb Jizer degreaser and it works a treat. You should wash the de greaser off thoroughly with hot water and then dry the parts before applying fresh lube

I clean my bike, not after every muddy ride, but when I do its done properly with a care, a bucket, brushes and a garden hose at most. I find that you tend to find stuff before it goes wrong, like loose spokes, bolts and tight or grumbly bearings. I treat it as a service inspection.
People I know who just tend to blast the dirt off and chuck the bike in the shed until next time tend to have more failures on the trails, holding every other bugger up or cutting the ride short.

Clean your bike properly and give a nice cuddle once in a while and it will love you back. :-)

Freedom

Sweet looking van a11y.

I know Greeble, does seem strange. I’m playing it down calling it a van, its a camper with stuff in so bikes on the back.