90! 110 minimum imo..

well it’s shite.. go second hand and you should get something decent for 300.

well.. it says on the listing that it’s a small with a 58cm top tube, it’s new so it probably wasn’t for him, or he’d have ridden it, and he has a 100% feedback rating. i see no issues.

i’ve definitely noticed that the nod depends on what bike i’m on/what clothes i’m wearing, if it’s a road bike and i’m in a relatively roadie outfit then most nod, if i’m wearing normal clothes/on fixed gear, a few might by mistake, if i’m on anything else, no way!

i don’t know why there’s the need to recognise other people doing similar things.. but tbh i couldn’t give a shit whether i’m acknowledged or not! we’re not even going in the same direction, i’ll probably never see them again!

i had one of those beautiful blue bombers with the 4 foot wide bars in the early 90s.. tragically i think it must have been skipped :/

all i can really remember about it is the weight mind.

whatever it is, make sure it’s fixed to the wall properly if you’re going to put it over your bed, is my advice :/

yeah it’s caused by pressure on your ulnar nerve at the base of your palm, consider playing with your grips/bars/gloves/position. it will go away but can obviously come back if you don’t change anything!

i’ve got a leyzne road drive too, though not used it on mtb.. for road it’s surprisingly quick to get up to pressure and always easy going. only problem is it has a tendency to unscrew the whole valve when you take it off meaning you have to do it all again – if your tubes have valves that unscrew, tighten them all with pliers first!

other than that it’s tiny and light, and indeed looks pretty.

to keep it on topic.. how about one of these?

http://www.pezcyclingnews.com/?pg=fullstory&id=5800

they are admittedly overpriced, but hell i love mine (sempre) and they have by far the best colour going (that’s the important part)

can’t just watch that once..

arrow might be pointing in direction of rotation..

i had a right bastard recently, ran fairy liquid round the edges, pumped it up then jammed it in the hinge side of a door (to hold it) and levered it, popped into place at last..

you get sweaty through lycra, not under it ;)

bibs are a bit more comfortable as they don’t have a tight waist, and stay up all the time obviously..

assos bib shorts were the best investment i’ve ever made..

Rule 79 of highway code: Do not ride on the inside of vehicles signalling or slowing down to turn left.

-so do do it if they are not. filtering is legal!

I do not jump red lights for my convenience, I do it for my safety

really!?

you will mostly out-accelerate a car from a stop.. suppose you might get a bit of open road after the junction.. what’s the argument there?

personally i do it cos i like hooring it about really fast.

i’m pretty sure it’s legal to undertake in most situations, though i always find it a bit risky – prefer to overtake down the middle personally.

aha ;) ok scrap that then!

the vast majority would have the semi-horizontal dropouts like this

which should be fine for ss/fixed anyway, i don’t know what the requirements are for hub gearing..

pretty much any steel road bike from 1950 on should do you fine..

when you’re on the drops and your sus compresses at the bottom of a slope.. well i wouldn’t want it to be me! balance over the front is always the problem when i go downhill on my cx.. and that’s where the brakes are.

in my experience a seatpost mountain rack will work fine for road touring if you’re careful with the weight (and weight distribution) on it – but any bouncing about off-road is not going to be good at all..

there’s a few bar-mounted ideas in that massive bivi thread that i like the look of (for bigger items) – a bracket coming off the steerer etc..

worth remembering that shooting at 960 on either version is 4:3 rather than 16:9 (i.e. the squarer format rather than widescreen), you might prefer the results from 720.. though 960 is easily croppable to 720 in editing, the width is the same (1280)

also don’t get the 60fps but if that’s not an issue, hell yes get the £170 one!

no.

re kindle email address, if you use <usernamegubbins>@free.kindle.com ir will wait until you’re in wifi range before sending it, otherwise it will send it via 3g and you’ll be charged. (assuming you have the 3g version)

also has to come from an address confirmed on your kindle account.

have, don’t understand what it does, so i suppose i don’t use it. or i might be.

so *consults* that would be the same as 36:20, 2 extra teeth, quite a difference!

i suppose i just have to experiment.

what gearing? i’ve just built one up and not sure what to do right now.. i have 36:18 which i find just about bearable on the flat (i.e. i’d prefer to move faster but it’ll do!) but is hard work on the steeper stuff.. but i’m not sure i could deal with the spinning required if i go any lower.

haven’t really tried it on a proper ride out yet though.. but dicking around central edinburgh’s various small lumps has been excellent!

just cycle twice as fast as you did on the mountain bike. easy.

they might be _slightly_ less common but the price difference isn’t great for a campag freehub. can probably find one listed on here if you give it a week or so.

as for traffic, just think of it like that loose dog when you’re offroad- always be prepared for it to dash out and knock you off.

..except it’s 10 times larger and made of metal.

sudocrem is great after the fact, not so sure about its preventative properties..

whenever i’ve had hydrocortisone cream it says not to use for more than one week at a time/in a limited way, though i’m not sure of the exact reasons. still, i wouldn’t want it on my bumhole.

imo the best thing for sores was to get some decent bib shorts..

i went to 6 LBS today (the others were shut, it is sunday..) looking for a 36.4 qr seatpost clamp, none had one, and ordering in would take longer than ordering online, as well as being more expensive. while i probably won’t need their assistance in fitting it when it comes, they would be pretty foolish to turn down that business as well..

might be able to with http://ridewithgps.com/ .. i only use it for manual route planning, but the elevation stuff (and whole implementation) is really good

is that road not really rough too? i’ve only ridden it in passing (though i fancy a go at the tt.. is membership a hassle to do?) but it seems pretty poor.. i bet that makes quite a difference too.

my carbon road frame has nanotubes squirted in there too for some reason.

i’ll just hold my breath when i’m on it

i use http://www.xcweather.co.uk/ a lot, it’s great for road cycling (i usually want to go out into the wind..)
combined with the bbc’s rainfall map thing which is not bad for short term (next few hours), and looking out of the window (top floor on a hill..)

if you’re used to doing 30 i imagine your position/fit is reasonably good, though you might benefit from raising the bars slightly. personally though i find that it just does hurt a bit when you’re caning it for hours in the same position! (maybe my setup is a bit off too mind) recently i’ve started changing position more often, especially on climbs etc, using the flats and drops rather than always on the hoods.

hah, eep! lucky they’re sturdy little buggers.

i’m impressed you’ve got it so steady with zip ties, good work. worth it for the wheel in shot. you could maybe take it from the bars down.. then it would turn with them though of course.

wonder if you can do shock-mounted really low down..

it’s capable of shooting 60fps at 720p, the other 30fps 720p setting is doing the same, just saving every second frame (basically) – the video will most likely be edited and exported at 30fps anyway.

the only advantage is that you can then slow down that 60fps to 30 without any visible transition between frames (in fact if you’re editing at 25fps or 24, you can slow it more than half speed with no problems, and those 60fps help if you want to slow it further and blend frames with twixtor or whatever..)