I find it’s hard to find good similar games on mobile as there’s not as many out there, so I tend to try and find other good, equally enjoyable games, so with that in mind…

Badland, Monument Valley, and “Only one” are excellent games, and all on android. The first two do have some similarities with Limbo though.

If you use Amazon app store they give away a free app every day (where I got monument valley, pumped bmx, pumped bmx 2), 90% of the time it’s dross but worth checking for good games.

Looks ok other than the pink

Ah that’s the Meta SX 26″/150mm.
The Meta HT Trail is 650b/120mm, black on orange, or orange on black – and looks the tits inho. Low, but not as long as the 905.
The Meta HT AM is 650b and 150mm (yellow/black or black/yellow).

Have a fairly unique word or phrase that you shout when approaching changeover with a team mate. This lets them know you’re on your way in, as everyone looks the same, especially in the dark.

The word should be the same word regardless of the team mate you are handing over to (shouting the team mate’s name you are expecting to be there is not a guarantee that it’ll be the team mate you are expecting, plus lots of people have the same name).

If you choose to make your word or phrase offensive and/or humerous then all the better.

Charge are niche bike manufacturers and they had a lot of success with their fat bikes (worldwide success!). If they aim their bikes at the fun & fatter crowd – then this is a good corner of the market for them. The other manufacturers have got the mainstream 29er and 650B arena covered pretty well. I don’t blame them really.

Yeah – I’m not feeling their current line up, firstly no steel geared bikes, and by making their bikes only 27+, I think they’re missing a big part of the market. Given that the clearances for 27+ and 29 are similiar I would have thought they would have made their bikes compatible with both “standards”

Thanks for the headsup! Listening now… Good so far.

In the box of bits that came with the bike you should have a couple of little blocks that go where the brakes go now to tidy it up.

I got nothing in the bag of bits with my bike *shakes fist in direction of Winstanleys*

does anyone have a picture of what these are or what they might be called so I could order some?

So OP could use these to keep your shifters on?…
http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/BSSRXXMMCL/avid-mmx-matchmaker-clamp-silver

My matchmakers might be older than the current stock (2011)(mine look like this) If I remove the brakes, I don’t have anything (blocks?!) to provide the other half of the clamp.

I’ve seen these “Problem Solvers” but seem a bit expensive, and non standard
http://problemsolversbike.com/products/mismatch_adapters

I’m in the same boat, I would be happy with a new seperate mount for the shifters but cant seem to find any.

Chunkstar… did you get this resolved?

Shame they’ve used sounds not from the camera!

I did wonder if the sounds were real, it kinda sounded a bit BBC wildlife documentary meets spaghetti western.

Where’s all the “weeeeeee”, “gnarly gnarly gnarly!”, and “f*******ckin’ ‘ell”s that usually accompany riding fast?

(I assume that’s why they put music over ride videos normally)

[edit]I did like it though. I think I’d ride a bit slower and stop for some soreen half way down and check out the views.[/edit]

That bike looks the tits. Does she still not want it?

Op, we will require resolution please. We NEED to know how this ends please.

I agree. So, does she have the bike now?

Pics of the bike or the kitten gets it.

+1 for finding a good Pilates teacher and attending regular classes. (In my experience and generalising, generic gym/fitness class teachers that also teach pilates are not as good as Pilates teachers that have that as their main job).

I look at it as an hour long physio session.

I started getting sciatica at university in 2000, I’ve had good times and bad times with my back, the good ones are usually accompanied by pilates or regular excercise and flexibility.

I’ve steered clear of chiro’s and ostepaths for the reasons stated above and have used Physios when needed, like when I’ve had a bad flare up last year – (which triggered my return to pilates).

Best of luck and hope you heal up soon!

Nope, essential travel for hard-working professionals.

http://gsfchauffeurs.com/

aaaah, like this pair…

ah, car gubbins?!

http://www.gsfcarparts.com

Memory foam is the biggest con ever perpetrated on the buying public and I hope one day it will be exposed as such. It’s crap for a mattress as you sink into it and get sweaty; it’s the best proof currently of the old Marketing thing that if something is expensive, 50% of the public will believe it to be superior.

Glad I’m not the only one.

FWIW Sealy are the same company as Silentnight (as well as Rest Assured, Layezee, Pocket Spring Bed Company), all aimed at different bits of the market, different ages and budgets.

Ikea mattresses are good value for money (check the sizes though!). I’ve seen a lot of mattresses, comparatively they don’t match quality wise with the more premium brands they emulate, but you have to pay more for that premium.

Depending on how much you wanted to look into it… I’d want to understand the different types of mattress, the qualities they bring. Here’s a quick summary… apologies if you know all this:
* bonnell sprung mattress (usual entry level mattress) – Silentnight’s miracoil is just a fancy version of this.
* Pocket sprung – where instead of all the coils being joined together, each coil spring is individually housed in it’s own fabic case, so less “roll-together” effect, and no squeking – generally more springs = more movement in the bed and greater comfort.
* Foam – Memory Foam, Latex, or Reflex. I really like latex here, it’s better for the environment and very comfy. I have never seen the advantage of the foam staying in the position that you were just in (surely all that matters is the support and comfort it gives you at the time you are lying on it), and all the visco elastic (aka memory foam) beds I’ve slept in seem “too warm” – and I’m a hot sleeper. Reflex foam is great value for money but is mainly only used in Europe, we don’t seem to get it much over here.

If you keep a good mattress for ten years it’ll cost you something around 2p a night, so a sound investemnt.

I’ve got a sleepeeze 2000 sprung pillow top mattress, on it’s tenth year and still very comfy.

Oh, I used to work for a bed retailer. It doesn’t look like beds move at the same pace of progression as mtbs, so I hope all the above still stands.

I had to explain foreshortening and perspective distortion to a friend when those topless pictures of Kate Middleton were in the papers (he said they looked a bit flat).

You could always use exposure plot to determine your most popular focal length.
http://www.vandel.nl/

I know personally – I’d take the 28mm equiv. You must have an incling which you would prefer before you posted right?

Bit of a summarised update, for cataloguing purposes and in case anyone else has issues:

* Evans sent it back to Cycling Sporting Group (aka CSG) who provide the warranty. They wrote a note saying it works when you use shimano cranks, and that the existing cranks are not bent, and that the frame is aligned correctly.

* Evans provided me with new Shimano Deore crankset (for free), can’t complain too much, had the X5 on and the deore weighs less. The new cranks do not hit the chain stay and look to have about 5mm on the drive side.

So I am inclined to think the following:
* SRAM mtb cranks (generalising perhapps) have a lower Q factor than shimano cranks. (167.5-to-170.9mm compared to Shimano’s 174mm)

* The 2012 Charge Cooker’s straight and wide chainstays don’t accomodate all cranksets (especially SRAM ones), the have corrected this frame design issue in their 2013 and all subsequent cooker models. (Mine is 2012 and the chainstays are not bent, or formed to allow greater crankset clearance – I think 2012 is the year they first made the cooker)

Here are some pics of the later models:

As such I feelthe warranty company is mitigating problems with their frame by providing a different crankset. If I start getting issues with the Shimano crankset then I’ll be pushing for a new frame, until then I’m pretty happy that I can get out riding again. Cheers!

p.s. Credit to Evans, they were very useful and friendly throughout. Tom, in the Leeds workshop especially.

In a not answering the question at all kind of way, I saw this a while ago and it was a good read if you are interested in one. Good video and plenty of nerdy data and info on sizing:
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/dartmoor-gravity-hardtails-hornet-vs-primal-video-2014.html

Does anyone have a link to the overall standings please? Can’t find it on UCI’s site. Enjoyed watching this today, only caught the tail end of last seasons racing but might fellow this one a bit more.

I took it into Evans today. They have agreed that it is perculiar… they have ran some measurements and tried swapping the crankset over too, and even with brand new one the issue is actually worse! They are going to get in touch with Charge and try and get it sorted under the 5 year frame warranty. Fingers crossed.

If anyone else has a charge cooker (steel ideally) – could you measure the gap/distance from the crank arms to the chainstays please? (In the way that I have earlier). I’m wondering if mine is an anomaly – most other bikes I see are around 2cm gap (not 2mm!)

Cheers!

I’d say that’s a fair decision – especially if South Wales is closer! I only live 40 mins away from Lee Quarry.

I’d say do it if you’re up this way rather than making a trip especially for it!

Did you make it up there over the weekend? Perfect weather for it!

Argh! which biscuits for easter pagan Monday faith mocking?

Brant: Measure end of crank arms to side of DT too.

This is exactly the same on both sides. Can any conclusions be drawn from this?

Still not had a chance to take it to Evans in Leeds. Fingers crossed this week.

I went on a bicycle maintenance course a few years ago, the old rubber type that get stuck on can be loosened with hairspray (and I saw this working, weird!)
http://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Bicycle-Handlebar-Grips

I’d have thought everyone uses lock on style grips. (So loosen the hex screws and pull). What style are they?

Lee and Cragg are high up and unsheltered by trees like the usual trail centres, worth checking the forecast beforehand. I’ve never aborted a trip there though, probably just been lucky.

There’s a weather forecast on their site
http://www.pmba.org.uk/leeandcragg.htm

More a fan of http://m.yr.no/place/United_Kingdom/England/Bacup/long.html

Currently looking good for the weekend.

Oh yeah it’s not well waymarked so check their site for a map. Ive been quite a few times and still struggle to find the bit up to cragg.

If you are relatively local to Parkwood Springs in sheffield it might be worth a trip (although I’m yet to venture there but seems to meet the spec).

Lee quarry, especially Cragg has lots of swoopyness (top of Lee Quarry), and has a couple of pump tracks in varying states depending when you visit. This remains my favourite trail centre in england (so far).

I like this “nu school” type of trail, fast, flowey, smile inducing…

The blues at bike park wales? (although the most obvious ones)

kazafaza: Take the frame to a bike shop that has a proper frame alignment tool, not the bit of a string and a ruler 😉

To be fair Evans said they would do this with their proper tool, but said the string thing was something I could have a try at home with.

weeksy: I’ll have a look later at my Cooker 2, although I’m not sure what it will tell us as I’m running a generic HT2 BB.

Out of interest, I assume there’s a reason you’re on a GXP ?

Thanks. I have a GXP crankset because it came with the bike. I don’t have any particular devotion to it and now I have a hope BB I could swap it for a SLX easily and would no longer need the gxp inserts. Only annoyance is cost of replacing what I consider to be a working crankset (especially if it exhibits the same issue).

For what it’s worth I have had this problem whilst running two GXP Bottom brackets (including the one that came with the bike, and the one I fitted after it)… As the play increases so does the amount of crank arm knocking on the chainstay. So I thought I’d put a hope one in, there’s literally no play now but I have noticed the crank still knocks on the chainstay when under more load (also I’m probably more aware of this happening now I have become accustomed to recongising the knock). As theres only like 2mm of clearance, it doesn’t take much power and flex to make it clip.

Brant: Measure end of crank arms to side of DT too.

*feels thick* sorry what is DT?

I’ll pop into Evans today and tell them I can bring it in next week if they can take a look at it.

Thanks for the replies earlier. I’ve been quite busy recently so only had a chance to have a play tonight.

If you take the tyre of the rim and the tube or valve out you can use the hole to take a line of sight of the rim against the seat tube through the valve hole to see if the rear end is notably off.

I tried this, but couldn’t really notice anything particularly off centre, I guess it’s hard to line up with the eye. I did measure the distance between each side of the rim…

Driveside (3.2cm):

None Driveside (2.9cm):

Whilst my wheel isn’t the most true it could be I think that’s quite indicative.

To the eye, it’s closer to the non driveside stay:

I also went into Evans one lunchtime (although without the bike), and one of the guys said to tape some string to the centre of the headtube, then pull it to the back of the frame (by dropouts) and measure the distance to the seat tube from the string. I did this and it was roughly 3.6cm-ish on both sides. So this doesn’t prove anything.

I think I have two options really:
1) Return it to Evans to take a look. It’s out of warranty so doubt they will do much.

2) Get a new crankset – was thinking something like SLX would do the job, but most websites like CRC I can’t find the Q factor on the specs. Does anyone know how I can find this? Seems like I might be gambling if the next set I order is just as slim.

Might try getting in touch with Charge again, but hopefully they won’t just tell me to go to Evans again.

If I take it to frame builder it doesn’t sound like a cheap option, would I be better off getting a new inbred or other cheap steal frame 29er?

Any other options I am missing?

Thanks again… ~ J

Consume less calories than you burn (Using a calorie counter such as MyFitnessPal is the best way I have ever found to measure this).

Do whatever you find enjoyable to burn calories, and ensure the food you are eating is stuff you like otherwise you will never stick with it.

Be consistant and know that it won’t happen over night.

Does the restricted format of Instagram not bother anyone else?

It’s the opposite for me, if anything it has inspired me to think about composition in a 1:1 ratio. Not saying I’ve mastered it at all like. It’s a bit like the 6 second restriction of vine has spawned a lot of creative videos.

Here’s mine anyway, contains biking and other favourite bits of my life.
https://instagram.com/jaymoid/%5B/url%5D

Thanks for the headsup.,Weirdly Friday Night At Freddys’s 2 was free app of the day on my device, but I got pumped 2 though your link.

Bloody good game, loving the addition of manuals and grinds.

I’ve previously phoned whyte for similiar questions and they’ve always been helpful. Might be worth a shot if you’ve not tried already.

Stanton Slackline, nukeproof scout, dartmoor hornet/primal, whyte 909, orange crush, bird zero.

Never ridden any (except the crush) but would consider them for my next bike.