I think I have heard of people using clear nail varnish to fill in, and then rubbing down with fine emery cloth…Could be wrong though so don't take my word for it.
I think I may have some Rogue ones somewhere, hardly used These ones!, hardly used. I'll check in the morning. If I have you can have them for the cost of posting.
But, as I say, let me check first…
All depends on what alloy it is. Certain alloys need heat treating after they have been welded.
You need to make sure you get a reputable tig welder as well;-)
I had a 19" Bokor and I'm 5'11 so I would suspect that 19" is too small for 6'3" unless you run a very long seat post.
Voodoo size up the same as Kona…
This was my problem though. To put more sealant in meant letting the air out, which meant the bead came away from the rim. So – rim strip ruined and back to square one!
I had my Marin MV nicked about 8 years ago – Police gave me a crime number but otherwise weren't interested even after I told them where it was. They went as far as telling me I couldn't go and fetch it myself, and then went round and tipped the thief off.
In the end a "friend" of mine took me to the house where he knew the bike was, and the cheeky **** who had it asked me for £100. My "friend" wasn't best pleased and lost his rag a little. Got my bike back!
If you have the ability to sort it yourself do so – and make a complaint cos they keep getting away with doing nothing except catching speeders!!!
What about Moly Grease or paste, reason I suggest this is because Moly is what is used in spring powered air rifles, which is a plastic (or leather) seal that slides down a steel tube, same principle but opposite?
I have had a Santa Cruz, and a Yeti, yet the only bike I have held on to is a 2006 Giant Trance, so I would say that the ultimate trail bike is the one you decide you like…
…but the Anthem X with 120 mil forks would get my vote :wink:
Hi Matt, if you can get the service kit from Mojo and get over to Long Eaton I can show you how to service your forks, float R's are fairly simple…
Email in profile…
We went Here [/url]last year, just outside Ashbourne but they have 2 Cottages that they rent out, excellent facilities and even a swimming pool (open during the summer).
Best of all it's straight down the hill and onto the Tissington Trail with Carsington Water about 5 miles away.
You can use almost any oil as long as it's not going into the damping/motion control system.
In fact enduro recommend 15wt synthetic motor oil when changing the seals, the oil is just there to lubricate the seals. Make sure you put the right amount in otherwise you don't achieve full travel.
To answer the original question – Yes, but if you got to a Motorbike dealer you will get cheaper fork oil.
This is cheapest I have found but out of stock at the moment. Superstar's Integrato has done wonders for mine (I know it's swearing to mention superstar on here) and the bearings are cane creek compatible.
No. The date on the tub is very important – it's what they've scientifically determined is the exact point at which the powder breaks down into its constituent chemicals. This results in your body thinking it's getting a sugar spike without you actually getting any calories from the drink, thus releasing lots of insulin and giving you a blood sugar low – in other words exactly the opposite effect than if you'd used it a couple of days earlier before passing this critical date.
Is this serious, or am I just not clever enough to understand that you're TTP…
If the freehub body is loose you can tighten it in with a 10mm Allen key BUT, you have to have the axle and bearings out to do this I believe. Also some shimano hubs need a spacer behind the free hub (But that's just deore I think).
So remove axle and bearings and ighten the freehub with a 10 mm allen wrench.
Have you contacted wiggle? Unless the bike is restricted to certain weight then the shock should be sorted.
There are no weight restrictions on air shocks and why should he buy a coil shock, then have to source a heavier coil?
