I’m 5’11 and ride an 18″ inbred. Saddle height shown here for pedally stuff:

CRC have been out of stock for ages. I’ll make some phone calls…

Having real probs finding anyone that sells Mono Mini pistons. Anyone know of anywhere? I’ll send it off to Hope if I have to but would rather just order them and fit them myself one evening rather than send the caliper off and be without it for weeks.

pics of my Zaskar respray here:
http://www.jasoncarvalho.com/zaskar/
Despite adding plenty coats of lacquer after that, it still chips quite easily and probably cost me more than getting it powdercoated.

TJ – Got ya. Never occurred to me that you’d ride ‘into’ crud but it makes sense now, ta!

I don’t doubt for a second people’s testimonies that this keeps crud out of your eyes, but I really am confused why. Sure it only catches crud that is travelling forwards through that gap? My face is behind the fork crown usually isn’t it, so gets hit by stuff that is coming up past the downtube?

Here’s mine (technically not a 456…)

I replaced my crusty old 90s 1.5 Nimbus with 1.2 Specialized Fatboy. Big thumbs up, much quicker and surprisingly grippy in the dry

What about elastomers?

😉

Fair enough, time for an overhaul then. Don’t think it was a fluid issue as I tried opening the bleed valve with some tubing attached, in case I’d run out of ‘space’ in the system – didn’t make any difference.

CRC are out of stock on Mono Mini pistons. Any other recommendations?

Did my first tri a couple of weeks ago (on an MTB). I considered the bike/run shoe thing a lot and went with the two shoe approach, as did pretty much everybody else there. I ran in my Salamon trail running shoes as they have a drawstring instead of laces which probably saved a bit of time. My mate got himself some elasticated laces for a couple of quid which he reckoned worked well too – he wore the same shoes for cycling too so his T2 time was about 20-30 seconds quicker.

For adventure racing I stick with one pair of shoes (the Salamons) and toe clips as there are too many transistions to faff about with shoes. I’d stick with 2 pairs for tris though.

yeah, obv will need replacing if there’s a hole. I just wondered if it was possible to get the tyre back on once the strip has been trimmed, without the strip dissapearing into the rim along with the tyre bead. Sounds like it should be fine then, plenty of soap I’m guessing.

I’m guessing you need a new BMX tube each time you take the tyre off?

nah, it’s visible all the way round, in fact I left a mm or two sticking out when I trimmed it. I’m wondering if I nicked a hole in it with tyre levers or something…

Was going to post a thread but I’ll use this one if the OP doesn’t mind. Gave this a go for the first time myself last week with mixed success. Kenda nevegal/blue groove on Mavic 717. Front holds fine and has been ridden 2 or 3 times no without incident. The rear however seems to lose pressure over the course of about 3 or 4 days (holds up fine when riding). Here’s the thing though, whilst fiddling about with the tyre last weekend, I noticed air escaping from between the rim edge and the BMX tube strip. This makes no sense to me. The rim strip should be sat more or less in contact with the rim and all the air is above the strip ‘inside’ the tyre. If air was escaping from the join it should be from above the rim strip, not below it, no? If you drop the pressure enough to flex the tyre about (say, 15-20 psi), you can clearly see air and a little milk coming out from under the strip. WTF? how did the milk get in there?

Here’s mine:
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I used the A2Z one for a while and it worked well, a bit neater than the ones that go all the way up to the v-brake bosses. Only fits certain frames though – fit my Zaskar no problem but not on a ’99 s-works.

Yeah they really could do with some decent pictures on their site. Cheers for the compliments, picked the frame up off the classifieds a week ago. Hopefully take it for a quick blast tomorrow.

Built it this weekend

I’ve been using Tracklogs for a few years but have just started using Mapyx Quo. *Much* cheaper OS maps (99p for 1:50k 10km x 10km), free software, supports just about every file format ever – so far so good!

Had to drop out on lap 2 due an exploding rear hub. Ah well, maybe next year…

Cool, thanks.

To add to the confusion, I’m also “of MK”. I’ll be on an old 90s S-Works, come say hello 8)

Carl that wasn’t me!

Hmmm some identity issues going on here… 🙂

Anyone know what time it starts/need to be there? Doesn’t seem to say anywhere on the FNSS site.

I think you can just turn up and sign in on the night.

hmmmm, heavy new FSR or light old hardtail with v-brakes…

I’m going to give it a go as it’s about 5 mins from my house. Wouldn’t call myself a STWer though, more of a lurker.

New bike:

My old hardtail in commuter spec:

Another hardtail that I’m going to rebuild and bring back to life this week with some different bits:

Cheers. I thought my pumping style was pretty slick previously – I can fly through rhythm sections on BMX tracks at speed, maybe it needs some work. On reflection I don’t think the geometry is putting me too far forwards as there’s plenty of pretty steep descents on my local loop that still feel comfortable, no probs getting my weight right back. It’s more when the front forks compress suddenly that I feel like I’m being pitched forwards. Might just be the added factor of the rear rising at the same time as the front compressing that I need to get used to.

I had exactly the same problem (explained here – http://cyclonembc.editboard.com/maintenance-bike-tips-f5/disc-brake-help-t887.htm)

The lever was gradually finding it’s way to the bar, although a few pumps would get the pressure back again. Tried bleeding and replacing the fluid but it had no effect, there was no air in the system

Turned out the seal on the master cylinder piston was goosed. Instead of pushing fluid down to the brake, the fluid was coming back up into the reservoir. New seals were a couple of quid but it means dismantling the lever – not that hard really. Been absolutely fine since. This was on a Mono M4 but the culprit lever is identical.

This is the page I used to help me do the job. The master cylinder piston is the little thing next to the spring in the exploded picture with two black seals on it. I replaced both of them.
Hope Mini/Mono/Moto Lever Overhaul

Must have been about 88/89 on a Ridgeback 602. Moved onto a Marin Pine Mountain after that got nicked and then a Kona Lava Dome shortly after in the early 90s. Got a Zaskar LE in ’95 and rode that until about a week ago when a shiny new FSR XC arrived.

Whoops, pic didn’t work. Try again…
09 FSR XC:

Brand new 09 ‘Expert’, picked up yesterday

I know I sound like a massive gayer, but if I got a SH one resprayed or powder coated, can I get hold of replacement decals/stickers?

Wow, thanks for all the quick replies. Very helpful cheers. You guys should be hired to write the copy for their website 😉

Sounds like the inbred is more my kinda thing. I’m more an XC/singletrack kind of person and ride pretty lightly despite my 15st weight. Not really into drop offs and big hits etc. Shame it only comes in white…

1995 Zaskar LE – probabaly about 3rd or 4th incarnation by now and still going super strong.

I’ve ridden Ashdown Forest plenty of times as part of the Ace Races adventure race series that is hosted there every year. Meh, some ok trails but nothing to write home abaout, as mentioned earlier.

Hello all, by the way
/waves