WTF where the racing gone?

What the RBTV stream? Working here.

Agreed. Was building up to a tense finish – Tauber off her bike and running up that elite climb, Courtney catching but tiring…

It was. Courtney v. impressive this year so far. Coverage seems to be missing key points in the race? Courtney flatting early on, then Tauber’s mechanicals from the lead on the last lap (how do you miss that?)

Got my rear shock back. Well, I didn’t actually, RS have swapped it for a Monarch+ rc3. LBS reckons RS and Whyte have had a few issues with rear shocks on the Whyte frames, hence the upgrade.

AFAIK an XCC course is 2km.

Not the case then looking at those Strava stats. Just over a km per lap, explains the superhuman average speed I worked out :) Still mind-boggling though.

Haven’t watch racing for years – really enjoyed this weekend’s XCC/XCO.

The men were lapping the short course in just over 2 mins, so if my maths are correct, thats over 55km/h per hour right !

Nah, not having that for a second. At the TDF they’re happy doing that for a shortish TT on the road… No chance on the trails, even nicely groomed ones like the short circuit.

I’d love to be proven wrong though.

AFAIK an XCC course is 2km. Van Der Poel did 9 laps, his time was 20:28. Working it out in my head that’s an average speed over 50km/h – 30mph?? Can that be right? Amazing if so.

I guess it’s no different to Apple not letting you replace Siri on an iPhone. They’d rather you use their assistant. Can understand why Apple or Google wouldn’t want a third-party to have ‘always-on’ listening on their devices.

Have you tried retraining the Google voice model, step 4 here? Might improve things?

https://support.google.com/assistant/answer/7283669?co=GENIE.Platform%3DAndroid&hl=en

You can make Alexa the default assistant in settings, but don’t think it’s always listening like Google is. On mine a long press of the power button activates it.

Take a look at the Anker Roav VIVA on Amazon. That would do it.

We used to live close to a wetland nature reserve, with boardwalks that were great fun to ride when the place was closed. One winter night ride, flat out on the boardwalks and they disappeared beneath me – a section had been removed and was being repaired. Head first into the lake. Only found the bike ‘cos the lights were still working under the water.

With these older P7 frames I think the QR clamp would struggle to crimp the post, always slipping :) Bolted now I have the dropper on it.

Ta. That’s simple to sort then…

Happened a few times to me on a busy, narrow NSL road and I decided was better to keep going (no pull-ins anywhere) so at least they were making progress. Some folks slam on the brakes and stop in the road, leaving the emergency services stuck.

Been a few stories of people pulling across a junction through a red light to let police or ambulance through, and they then get done. So rules of the road still apply.

I’ve started wearing DHB bibs under Endura shorts this year. So much more comfortable not having a waistband, although about £35.

https://support.microsoft.com/en-gb/help/971759/how-to-back-up-or-transfer-your-data-on-a-windows-based-computer

Method 3 on this uses the built-in Win7 backup.

On its way back under warranty now. Thanks for the tips.

So for future reference, is adding/taking out 10 psi now and again when you are playing around with sag a bad idea? Should you take back to 100 psi and cycle it each time and back up to the pressure you want?

One came over today, Oxon. Very distinctive sound.

Silly question the shock isn’t travel limited is it, it can physically extend to “0”?

Not AFAIK, standard T-130S. Set the sag around 30%’ish when it was new, thought I’d try 25% then noticed the issue. Ah well, back to the shop I go.

I had been, but this time just topped it up from 200 to 220 to see how much that would decrease the sag to.

So should I depressurise, put 100psi in, cycle it a few times, then top up? Do that each time I make an adjustment?

Lack of mobile signal you might be able to live with if you can get decent Internet and use WiFi calling instead. When you say the Internet speed was very low – how did you find that out?

Some info here http://www.inorthumberland.org.uk/

My parents have the same issue in the Quantocks, on the very end of a copper phone line a couple of miles from the exchange, with cables strung though trees and poorly maintained. Made some progress when a fallen tree brought the line down, and I pushed for Openreach to check everything and they went from < 1 to > 4 Mbps, so at least it’s usable now.

Currently looking into what fixed-WiFi is available. Got one company interested and coming out to do a survey.

Turn off anything with a special name in the “picture” or “video” menu, like “TrueMotion,” “Dynamic motion,” “Cinema mode,” any stuff like that.

Definitely do this. Was watching the DH yesterday eve, and their wheels were just a jittery mess. Auto Motion Plus had been turned back on.

Part 1 is done – new smart tv with twin input Freesat for recording when we need it. All other streaming apps working very nicely – one Samsung smart remote now works everything. Yay.

Love new TVs :) Have you tried downloading a 4k HDR demo yet just to show what it can do?

Samsung: Chasing the Light HDR

Thanks fettlin. You’re right! That’s the mount for the gearbox…but it just won’t rotate quite enough to get at the fiddly cable stop (has two tabs you have to press, and new one will need to be clicked in). So close. Had the blade and belt cover off too – can unhook the cable easy but just that cable stop. Anyway, it’s all back together now ‘cos I want to use it tomo.

I assume this is still up to date. Take a look at…

https://availability.samknows.com/broadband/exchange_search

Put your postcode in, and under the LLU operator presence bit it tells you who has actual kit in your exchange. If they haven’t, they’re just reselling the same service, so usually only differentiator then is cost and customer service. Cable is separate obviously.

We ended up sticking with BT, at the end of each contract they say they’ll revert back to standard price, but you click a ‘special deal’ link and you keep the discount.

We’re across the road from the exchange, so a short bit of copper in, then fibre so get 70Mbps from standard BT ADSL.

In the house, I’ve had great results with a TP-Link Deco mesh setup. If your house is old and walls solid, you’ll still need a few units to get everywhere – we ended up with 4 to cover an old stone cottage and down to the workshops out the back. Been in a few years now, been faultless.

assuming the whole gearbox/ driveshaft assembly won’t slide out of the slots

The slots are keyhole shaped – so I think the black bushing is holding it in there. Reckon I’ll have to pull that bearing, and the bushing underneath. Unknown at the mo is how the height adjustment mechanism comes off (silver rod behind) as that silver plate also goes around the driveshaft, with no obvious way of getting it off.

Can’t you get to the cable from above or a removable panel under the flap which holds the grass box on?

Annoyingly no, had a look at that. It’s one piece of black plastic that also has a slot for the driveshaft. I’m not far off cutting my own little access hatch in the top deck :)

Been quite interesting working out how it all works though. Each wheel has a very basic freehub body inside, so the wheels are driven in one direction, freewheel the other way.

Ta. Will do that.

Half stripped it down yesterday, which was worth doing anyway as the drive mechanism was full of all sorts of crud – now cleaned up and working well. Was doing an oil/filter change too. But there’s so much more to dismantle just to get to that cable – seems nuts.

One thing I like about our Samsung is they seem pretty good with updates and adding new fancy stuff. It got the updates to take part in the BBC iPlayer HDR trials they’ve been doing during the World Cup, Wimbledon, Blue Planet etc. Apple TV app is coming. No experience of LG, Sony and the rest.

(it’s been a long time since I looked into this, technology may have moved on).

IMO it has – the TV interfaces are now much slicker than PVR ones. However a decent PVR would solve the single tuner issue. But I’ve now ditched the PVR completely anyway, just use a USB stick connected to the TV so I can pause it if the phone rings :)

At the moment, the only aerial we have coming into the house is from the Sky Dish. There is an old aerial on the roof – will we need to run a cable from this for Freeview or will Freeview run from broadband??

Have you thought about sticking with the satellite? Get a Freesat TV rather than Freeview? Most of the channels are the same, saves getting a new cable put in, and possibly new aerial if it’s that old. Our Samsung 6400 series has both Freeview and Freesat connectors.

Freeview is over-the-air digital TV via your aerial. They augment it with catchup and clever TV Guide, which then needs a broadband connection too (Freeview Plus?).

Can you record onto newer Smart TVs or does that need a separate PVR type thing?

Most SMART TVs will let you connect a hard drive to one of the USB ports, and you can then pause live TV and record. One limitation though, only has one tuner, so you can’t record ITV and watch BBC for example. But do you need this if you have catchup?

Whose UI is the best? LG gets good reviews, my Samsung is easy enough. Just hit a home button, all the apps appear across the bottom, then pick iPlayer, Now TV, YouTube whatever. Simple. Remote has usual play/pause/record etc. buttons for recording.

Badbury Clump is lovely at the mo…

You use both parts of the Hope GXP adapter, press into both sides of the NDS.

Stock tyres, typical UK muddy conditions -> chainstay rub

Assume those BT extenders with ‘too near, too far’ on them are just looking at strength, not quality. If when in the same room you’re only getting 2mbps then there’s something sub-optimal with the way the hub and extender is communicating. Poor support by the hub of older WiFi protocols?

I’d give Powerline a go if me.

Guess you have decent signal, but lots of interference -> errors and retries and results in poor speed. What extender is it? Can you do a test and move the repeater right next to the Virgin hub with a different SSID, just to get an idea what the theoretical max performance of the extender is?

Options are usually:

Somehow tackle the interference. Changing channel could help, or looking what’s between the hub and extender and moving stuff.

Ditch the wireless idea and somehow get a wired connection to the garage with a wireless access point on the end of it. Powerline works for some.

Do like Harry Metcalfe. Recognise the roads, must be near us somewhere…

Good news :) So the bearings, or were the cups moving in the frame?

Big fan here. Loved driving dad’s first gen around as a kid. Have a totally stock 11-year old one at the mo. Took time to find one that hadn’t been ‘blinged’ i.e. no big wheels, no tints, no chrome bits added. Lovely car IMO.

Thanks weeksy. Could be cable creak, another thing to look at. Are Whyte’s fairly quiet with their internal cable routing? If not, not much you can do I guess.

I’m in the middle of doing the same (chasing down a click) on my Whyte. Got the torque specs from Whyte for all the pivots and mounts, popped each one apart, checked and back together. Doesn’t take long and takes them out of the equation (unless you have a bushing/bearing issue).

Saw the bit about the chainring above, so just taken mine to pieces, cleaned out all the crud and back on the bike. Will see…

No experience of ovals, but assume once you’ve set it correctly, you’re reliant on the mech handling any slight change in tension. But if the starting point is wrong…

Unlikely to be bobbing uphill down the 11T end of the cassette?

Does it need adjusting for different chainring sizes?

With Shimano you could get B-Gap roughly right and it worked. Eagle is v. fussy. In theory a larger chainring (same chain length?) could move the mech enough to impact performance.

Also if full-sus, try and check it in the sagged position.