hey those astral brewer shoes look great.
where did you get them winston, or do you live in the states?

thanks all. i should’ve said Rockshox fork.
i knew that fox and x-fusion were better for clearance.
so rocket ron’s ok. how much clearance are we talking about tweedviper?
and same question vincienup

i got some brasso equivalent and some generic spray varnish which included copper in it’s list of suitable substrates. gonna give that a try. will clean off with acetone before the laquer, if that answers your Q squirrelking?

re temp cheekyboy. this isn’t a radiator pipe, so yes, heat-loss is undesireable. but having lagged the runs of hot water pipe form the tank to the kitchen, i found it made no discernable difference. that is to say that since the water is moving fairly fast down the pipe, and then sitting still for ages, it doesn’t seem that relevant. it loses any heat it had while it’s siting in the length of pipe, tho insulated, and then you have to run it for the same amount of time to get hot into the sink.
also, tho the water may be at 60 in the tank, it takes a while for pipes to warm up to that temperature with the water running through, by which time water is turned off again (just a small basin in a toilet).
so no issues there.

vajazzlers? not heard that before. nice

excellent, thanks : )

lookin gat dolmars. cheaper than stihl, makita engines. semm not bad
anyone any experience?

echo look good, but they’re dearer thatn Stihl! in euros

blades seem to be better when grass/vegitation is long, get less clogged-up.

have to declare i am a tool snob. i hate using B+Q level drills for example. i can tell the difference and i like my tools to last and work well. BUT, maybe a new ebay strimmer which i meaintain myself would be ok.

i had a yamaha one i got for nothing, spent too much money on getting it sorted, and now is super tempramental and a pain in the arse. i just wanted to throw some money at a bit of quality, but i’m only really talking about the strimmer equivalent of a pair of Sektors, i just don’t want some supermarket forks, so to speak…

bush?
brush?

i’ve used a 4-stoke honda and hated it. like the grunt of 2-stroke much better. thanks tho.

not sure if it’s been suggested, i read through some of the post but not all. anyway the best dutch style bike around is the Paper Bicycle

http://www.paper-bicycle.com/hustle/

is this a ruse to find out Tandemjeremy’s new forum name? : )

been there nemesis thanks. also posted same question there.
didn’t find any mention of recons or sektors tho

breadcrumb, i had a unit and i could never get very fat tyres on it.
what nemesis says…

Anyone fitted a 2.8 nobby bic on a 29er Sektor/recon (same lowers)

and its only 14? in there this morning.
helped me get my 2nd batch into the tricky parts anyways!

off for a quick vom…

fuxake!
they are rotten.
there’ll be some hipster customers i should think

yes, understand that. but as you say, it’s not that far out.
it’s cured this morning anyway, happydays. but i didn’t expect it to take anything like so long.
must be cooler in that room than i thought!

i divided each into 3, and did take bucket weight into account too, in such a way that there’d have been more catalyst if anything?.

ok, this reasured me:
At a temperature of +15°C it takes three days before the surface is
ready for foot traffic.

thanks
brand is litokol, starlike is the product.
temp is around 14-19 degrees.

was producing some heat, and 2part catalysed smell but still, seems very slow.
i will have to look for data sheet. just got worried cso after initial clean-up it said leave for 15-30 minutes then clean again. i assumed that meant it would have changed significantly by then: it hadn’t.

wee dod in the bucket is changing slowly but quite a lot slower than i expected having worked a lot with polyester based products etc.

anyway, will have a look for data sheet and see how it is in the morning

White spirit

i binged all 7 in 2 days.
kind of like an extended episode of thisamericanlife in a way. just well put together, clever editing.
you finished it now darcy?

thanks lawman, i’d only be after one of them turns out, and i think probably a pacestar for longevity.
also they’re only £31 new, so i may as well get the right one : )

found the answer to that:
http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/650b-and-other-plus-sizes-if-you-like-rim-tyre-frame-fork-combinations/page/20
hmmm.
nob trimming?

after a bit of better measuring, seems i’ve deffy only got room for a 2.6 on the back.
does anyone have experience of fitting a 2.8 in reba lowers?

good, thanks.
sounds like i could expect 65mm to be accurate on 40mm rim then, and that the profile will be slightly towards the squarer end of the range.
schwalbe recommend range of 30-40mm rims for 65-584 size tyres seemingly

sounding like i could squeeze a 2.8 in. reckon i’ll start with one and if it doesn’t fit the back i can get a 2.6

thanks : )

so you used the rev air shaft bit as a guide for the spring?
or what? i don’t really get it.
bit more explaining please as i love fork bodging : )

mc, i’m sure it was you who helped me with this unit before.

i feel like a right mug for not reading the manual properly, and it was the same last time!
thanks again for spending the time : )

so the ‘direction’ of the circuit: current flows from DCM to the others?.

Or is D3 a reset function? reset within the VFD?
not sure why i’d need that if the functionality is built into the switch?

yep, that’s the page i was looking at.
you mean the first diagram i’m guessing?
i don’t seem to have multifunction terminals labelled D1, D2 etc.

i don’t quite understand the function. seems like the NO and NC switches in series would do the job, with a manual reset on the stop, or with the start button closing the stop also if it’s open.
i guess that’s what you’e saying? the D3 terminal just serves as the return for the reverse signal circuit?

at the moment i’m essentially using it as in the second diagram, but without K2 switch.

excellent. thanks a lot for your quality help.

it’s a huanyang.
1 or 3 ph 220V to 3ph 380V.

at the moment i’m using the FOR(ward) and DCM terminals. so i would just also have a connection from the stop switch back to a 3d terminal and that would be it. sound easy enough. just need to get into the settings to make sure it’s going to work.

i had actually conceived of it as the DCM being the return leg of the circuit, not that i makes much difference, but is the DCM actually supplying the small operational current for the control circuit?

just to be sure, i can’t wire the NVR seitch i have for this use can i? it would need to have the 380v arriving at it?

mc, yes that’s right, i want to add start/stop.
i have it functioning that way at present in fact, but just with a light switch. by this i mean one wire running out to switch from controller, switch completes circuit and wire runs back to controller. if i could find a suitably designed switch to use with this configuration it would be best. but it sounds like the NO, NC arrangment might need a circuit for start and one for stop? or is the function just mechanical in the switch mechanism?

and yes, i need the functionality of and NVR where start up on power on is not possible and requires cycling.
if only the manual wasn’t in such bad chinglish!

what are you using VFD to stand for btw?

i’ll have a look for those type of buttons, thanks

sounds great kayla. useful info too. i’m still swithering between just going 26plus = just buying tyres, and 275plus.
was kinda waiting for the apparently coming 26plus maxxis tyres to appear.
but maxxis seem to have other priorities so i might be going 275 just to have the choice of tyres.

but yeh, what you describe sounds exactly what i’d be looking for in feel : )
keep us posted on the ride

lots of info, and some shit banter here:
http://forums.mtbr.com/26-27-5-29-plus-bikes/26-tire-choices-1004306.html

and what’s edinburgh got to do with fort william downhill anyways?

his forum name suggests he still has legs
still no idea…