yes so given this is not just a stream, pump at one end and nozzle at the other are the only relevant factors. i guess i’m asking about tubes without these 2 constraints. anyway, going way off topic and i could just google it!

yep, stating the obvious: it’s basically a combination of all of it; tread, compound, pressure, contact patch etc etc. it is bloody great :)

thanks steve, aye those are a long way further towards dirt jumps than mine! and doubles too, hmm, not got that far yet : )

i think the compression damper from revs would be a longer unit than on rebas, the models i’ve owned anyway. that would therefore change the oil volume required, so sounds like you’re on the right lines.

i recently used a measure-oil-level-from-top-of-uppers method, because i think the newer manual recommended this, rather than a specific volume.

i think the idea is that the bottom of the damper just touches the top of the oil, but tbh i don’t rightly know.

another 2.8 NN vote here, but i’ve not used anything else. have been quite impressed so far, but it is hard to sya whether the good grip is down to the tread/compound, or just having a mahoosive tyre right enough

thanks mowgli,
and what about flow rate? it is just proportional to cross-section? or does the resistance to flow thing theoretically come into play for smaller diameters?

anyone know where to get just the tube and gun?
well the gun’s not so important, but i like the idea of a skinny hose like that.

and while we’re at it, cna someone please explain relationship between tube diameter, flow, pressure etc?

does shrinking the tube increase the pressure? not necessarily?

thanks marc 90, so, means getting my hands on an old extinguisher.

think i’ll look at getting some of that thin fexi hose and a new squirter and just running mains water out through the window.

right, you buggers have got me thinking…

i don’t need a 12v, but the equivaent of a pump sprayer that gives a bit more pressure and water. how do you pressurise the fire extinguisher marc90?

bike gets washed out on the road in front of workshop/house; it’s just a pain to unroll the hose through 2 doors and down a couple of steps. same for mains electrics, and no 12v handy.

suggestions? something portable along the lines of the fire extinguisher would do. like the idea of making it myself. do have a compressor availabel to pre-charge, if that were possible

don’t get the BFe, the handlin won’t be much different, it’ll be heavier, you won’t do anything on it you couldn’t have done on the soul etc etc.

but most importantly, there’s nothing worse than a steel frame that doesn’t give you the comfort a steel frame should. it’s just a drag. get the soul. be comfortable and not beat up at the end of a ride.

nb, i’ve never owned either, but i have owned a 2 too heavy too rigid steel hardtails…

yes, to confirm you need the coil top-out spring. it sits under the top of the rebound damper. non-coil rebound dampers don’t have one. i got one by buying a rebound damper for coil sektors from planet x for peanuts. have a look around for one.
it’s the 2 parts below no.27 within bracket 18 in the pic.

i didn’t cut mine down like badly wired dog, so my fork travel is reduced ~15mm, which, turns out isn’t a problem as Axle-Crown length is already long for my frame.

thanks groovegu. i’ve been reckoning it’s the way to go for a few years, tho at the momnet i probably have the inverse

yep chief, when i rode the spitfire that’s exactly how i felt about it, which is hy i got interested in the prime in the first place : )

so, otherwise, a lot of people not reading my original post evidently, but to be expected. i’m NOT in the market for anything, and if/when the day arrives that i am, it will be a second hand one, with a good 3 or 4 years on it to make it affordable!
on the other hand, i am just compiling a wish list so no reason why unrealistic stuff shouldn’t go on it!

science officer, i reackon you want to stick an inline coil on it don’t you?
adidng air tokens will give more ramp-up, rather than less as well.

didn’t realise the transitions had different front and rear travel. they do look good and have had godd reviews ey? and 2.8 tyre clearance too. hmm

turns out the Hightower is 135 rear, 150 front as well, in 275+ set-up.
i did test one as well the same day as the Pivot (was a good day!), but it was Large, so couldn’t really get the feel of it. not to mention both bikes had the brakes the wrong way round…

anyway, a carbon santa cruz is probably a little out of even my imaginary budget. still, it can go on the list!

i tried a switchblade at a demo day and found it a little dead, especially compared to the Spitfire i tried, but it did have a CC shock on it, and the pivot may not have been set up for my weight.

also tried a hightower. that was nice…

none of you are helping!

i oviously don’t need ot look any further tho.

oh well, maybe in another couple of years.
the frame i have is more than adequate.

and yes gibbon, i’d decided inline coil was the way to go too.

where do you get curtain-sider material then?

achly they were scaper 40 rims.

the cheap way is find a pair of hope hubs on here for half the price they could have asked, then get some wtb i45 rims from planet x for 15 quid a piece, thanks to a lead from someone else on here.
that’s what i did, and felt smug! sorry : )

but then still had to fork out for spokes and nipples of course. and kinda wished i’d bought Asym rims instead, but eventually go the rear to stay true…
ish

otherwise get hold of a cheapish large holdall made of half decent stuff and hack it up.
that’s what i did, but i had been hoarding webbing, velco etc for years

right thanks a lot bin’un.
starting to get an idea of what awaits me…

Marko,

If it has an old school clutch type compressor, the noise might just be the clutch assembly. Usually easy enough to replace.

when you say this, i take it you are talking about the Clutch clutch, ie transmission clutch? and no the electromagnet system for AC?

so, pendant’s corner aside,

when i switch on the AC button in the cab, it turns on an electromagnet (clutch) which engages the pump mechanism in the AC pump uit? correct?

so if AC is not turned on, the pulley on the end of the AC pump unit is just spinning, driving very little (or nothing) in terms of mechanism inside the pump unit?

thanks for your help marko

damper pulley/tensioner has already been changed mc

i do have a french manual for the van, but it’s for an older model with a clutch cable. so probably not much help here.

yep those diagrams look right, but i’m sure it’d be a can of worms as well. from the limited looking i’ve done while underneath, just removing the AC lump looked hard enough. food for thought tho thanks.

so from what you say the AC is not engaged, ie not working, whic i can confirm, but the AC pulley in the obttom diagram is turning nevertheless. and that seems to be what’s making the squeak.

thanks marko, it’s a fiat scudo 2001

it is a non-cable (hydraulic?) clutch, that’s for sure.
would the clutch compressor be driven by the same belt that does alternator, AC, and various other pumps?

the noise does seem to be coming from the AC box, but i better check that is the ac unit… off to the haynes

shame they didn’t make it. i’d been mulling it over and could have gone for some i reckon. but he was 50 grand away from his goal. that’s a lot to make in pledges for a relatively cheap item.
i don’t doubt they needed that much to get them properly in production but still, perhaps not too realistic in terms of reaching the goal

anyway, i could still use something like this i reckon. maybe he should try to punt it to uberbike or something

i always wanted some carbon cranks, tho never been able to justify the cost.
this thread has totally chenged my mind, thanks!

sektors?
sensibly priced for sure. only 32mm stantions but a lot of folk rate them.
dual pos coil or u-turn. i have both : )

great, thanks again everyone. i’ll follow some of those up

thanks all

decathlon don’t go small enough. first place i looked, speshly since i live in france : )

knitted ones, i know the things you mean, but they wouldn’t really be warm, or nto for long anyway.

that via ferrata video is too much. dry boak

i reckon you’re probably right gwurk. i don’t go fast enough to know : )
i did follow a really great rider once in the alps and was astounded by what asked of his tyres. he wasn’t into the idea of big squishy tyres and i could see why!

it’s also the type of surface to a degree as well tho i reckon. on the dry rooty stoney trails round me i can’t think of many corners where a good rider could dig hard into it as it’s either too rough, or too covered in pine needles.
2.6/2.8@ tyre really help me on this stuff. sometimes i even feel like i’m going fast. i’m not tho

this:

looks righ tenough to me daffy, tho not sure whether you’ll get 29+ in there, unless you’ve found some pictures/reassurance elsewhere.
having said that i did manage to get a 27.5 x 2.8″ into a regular 27.5 fork…

hey mc, finally got round to installing Start/stop station today, and works exactly as described – ie works a treat!
i can see how the reset feature is handy too.
also managed to fit a good sized magnet to the back o it so i can move it about on the machine, no-where obvious to pu tit otherwise.
thanks again for your help
all the best to you

i have once had a wheels refuse to turn because of the amount of mud accumulated around it and the frame. no idea if that happens in the uk. needs to be pretty sticky mud, but still annoying

otherwise, it hasn’t mattered so far on my Sektors, and they don’t get jumped or drop-offed too much so i’m not bothered. : )

i have now done this.
2.8 nobby nick on a 40mm wtb scraper in a regular 27.5 Sektor. there is 8 – 10mm clearance above, which is the most constraining.
i virtually never ride in mud or wet, so it is fine. occaisionally tyre picks up a stone or bit of debris, which it jams into the bridge and catapaults out the front. but not huge forces involved; tyre is pretty soft and brie not showing signs of damage yet.

send me and email if you need a picture