chaka, isn’t that an oxymoron. isn’t consistenly rate of change means linear. progressive means not consistent. that’a how i understnd it.
i take your point tho

so air springs behave in a more linear fashion now due to improvements in compression damping eg bladder cartridges?

so it’s just about bottom out resistance?
but still, doesn’t progressive imply wallowy midstroke? smirk
is the ideal to be fairly linear till the end of the stroke where it would ramp up?
probably over-simplifying i know

yep, that occured to me too!

ah well, turns out i’ve only got a sram one anyways

Well I got those tyres on. 26×2.5 Vee fluid folding
2 things:
They’re not all that fat. Come up at 63mm to edge of nobs, which OK is 2.5, on Stan’s flow rim (not the skinniest rim) so only a mm or 2 wider than the 2.4 fat Albert’s I had on before. So a little dissapointed.
On the plus side they weigh about 875g, not the 1230g stated on website. And in fact on their own packaging it says as much.

Compound is a bit odd to me tho I’ve not had hunners of tyres, mostly schwalbe.
Anyway it feels quite hard, but squeaky sticky at same time. Tempted to say it feels cheap, but not convinced it’ll be had. Proper ride tomoro. Think they’ll be good in the dry conditions I have mostly anyways.

all done, easy enough.
20mm spacer at top on damper side instead of 30 for 130mm or 0 for 100mm

10mm above neg spring on sring side ( to provide top-out at 120mm) and 20mm above main coil spring (to make assembly correct length.

not tested yet but look all good
yaldi!

great ta.
seems straighforward enough, but i keep getting tied in logic knots…
getting there tho

ah ok thanks. maybe someone else knew that too then
will leave be.
right, off to the motor factor’s to try to get these bushes.

well not entirely! mostly me achly
anyway i seem to have found the cause of the problem. thankfully just at the pedal end where plastic bushes are super worn, allowing pedal to go squint and rub and eventually jam against plate beside it. if i can find new bushes all will be sorted.

another question tho trail rat, since you semm to know your stuff.
looking at the hydrailc reservoir it seems to be quite full – ovet the max. i guess i should syringe this off? unless someone topped it at a garage at some point (i can’t think why) it has been like that since i bought it 5 years ago…

i’ve got a sticky clutch which my i decided was cable operated by looking at my manual, not getting underneath and woking out what’s what!

then on my previous thread, i got more convinced when you described replacing the cable trail rat!

anyway, i now need to start looking for leaks, creep test etc

now i’m embarrassed:
it’s a hydraulic clutch!
no wonder i couldn’t find it.
pretty obvious too when you look in the cab, there is a piston…

just a pair of forks is enough justification really.
“hmm, bee good to get a nice cheap hardtail frame to put these on…”
etc

yes go for 170s at least. i’m the same size and they feel different and better for proper mtb. to the point where i actually considered starting a Wanted thread to swap all mine to 170. it’s asubtle differnce mind. also did notice more clearance, which seems slightly daft for only 5mm but i would say i noticed.

another issue however may be if you have other bikes still with another length which you ride regularly too. may contribute to knee problems is my suspision. only a subtle difference can make all the difference

i’m jel of how many bikes you have/how often you chnage them, stu.
but i’m glad there are folk out there to test things for us skintos!

SPLURGE!
good on you
wish i had the spare, tho probably good i don’t or i’d be at it all the time : )

thanks, i knew of the firefox one
knew about searching within site on google btu didn’t think of putting in thread title.

There was a thread on pinkbike listing axle to crown lengths.

There is some variation between forks of different brands with same travel.
And then add in potential variations in sag, you could be getting quite close.

You should be alright, just might not be in it’s sweet spot for handling.

Anyone know owt about the various cheap Vee 26 x 2.5 etc tyres cheap on CRC?

I’ve just ordered a pair. According to vee website they’re heavy! 1230g…
But in the absence of any fat/plus budget or options, I thought I’d give them a go for 15 oiros a piece.
Going to be close if they fit in my sektors but plenty of room at the back in 26er YT wicked frame.

hey lego,
i’ll just reply here too.
this seems like a good idea. good on you.
i take it you mean once we’ve made a donation, we send you proof of it (eg forward the confirmation email)?
that’s what you’ll then consider an entrance to your raffle?

fairly clear, but just in case others are wandering too : )

i’m up for it, and glad to have the nudge to make a donation.
will do it later

thanks

please tell me your forum name dates from after the accident!
guessing it has to
: )

turn bike upside down,
take out front wheel
stand on ends of bars to hold them fixed
grab bottoms of fork lowers and try to rotate in the way they do when steering,
if that makes the noise it’s the CSU as devash said

can’t remember where i read that way to test (probably on here) but it worked for me. took a lot of chasing to find it as it sounded like BB or linkage bearings, the way it resonated through frame.

uppers of sektors replaced under warranty by RS (via bike24 where i bought them)
was very happy as a numpty mate had scratched stantion!

smart

thanks everyone.
that article is great shermer75.
just taking time to digest it.

looks like i fit the Anterior pain category
guess i’ll go to the doc too and see if i can get some physio.

ok, i’m in france so not sure how referals/physios work, or if they do at all on my insurance. may go to a sport orientated osteo if it continues.

but did any of you work out any relation to biking?
and anyone changed crank length and had problems?

just taking it easy on climbs etc helped? lower gears?
i have stopped pedalling up the hill to my house with my 4 year old daughter on the front. did seem like unnecessary strain

woh, ok thanks rhayter!
speaking from experience?

oh and weeride from 9 months here.
bad when they fall asleep tho. reclineable back seat was best for that.

Polisport Guppy Mini, (not Maxior or Junior, which seem to be for the back)

had a wee ride and was ok but attachment is annoying. big heavy bar and limited to how far forward you can put them. and if you wnat to ride without the seat it’s heavy and ugly.

guppy attachment looks way simpler and lighter too.

importantly it mounts to the frame, not the stem/steering.

front mounted is excellent but limited in size/age. there was a point when mine had to move to the back.
now back on the front on on of those cross-bar mounted saddle arangments, holding the bars.

unlikely to be left-hand unless you can ‘see’ a reason in the linkage.
often blue-loctited in tho.

never undone any frame or shock bolts that are left hand.
not done millions tho…

excellant. thanks.
need to improve my googling skills!

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/turner-5-spot-2010-rolling-chassis-or-frame-and-fork
?

Thanks mugboo!that sounds ideal.
I’ll email you if you mail’s in prof.

Aye poah, I see the rs one is 12×1.75 thread. Does that mean one thread every 1.75 mm as measured along length? Guess so…

I’m of the replace the frame school when it comes to upgrading.
Not that I’ve ever had a 5spot, but have slowly ungraded frame, then parts, then frame again over time. Not the most economic strategy but down to cash flow mainly. And some hope hubs have helped with changing standards.
Anyway I just went from a 2008 pitch frame, which there was a lot of love for, to a 2012 YT wicked, and its night and day. Not that much changed, but rear through axle, tapered HT (tho still straight steerer) and newer geo really do seem to make a difference. At any rate bike has become a lot more future proof.

So anyway all I’m really saying is I would move on if I were you. Ideally you could pick up a bargain frame which is 2 to 3 years old and which you can still use most of you bits with (mine was £250). Then there’s the dropper etc etc to buy.
But perhaps parts wise you are too far behind the curve already, and/or perhaps you don’t have much to spend?

Otherwise try to get ~950 quid together and pick up one of the barganous complete bikes on here. That makes most sense money- wise
Scuse the ramble!

So still not much help turns out.
Only one 12×135 axle in that selection on bike discount for example; a rockshox one for 50 oiros.
Anyone know if it’d be compatible?
This one
http://www.bike-discount.de/de/kaufen/rock-shox-maxle-lite-rear-135x12mm-47093/wg_id-227
Guessing not

ah, i guess i didn’t put ‘DT’ as i was thinking i might be able to get cheaper.
and i wrote ‘thru’…
thanks MSP

Bigger than 2.35 schwalbes then?

aye, that’s a bit too much for my frame, but only a bit.
they look like a whole lot of tyre too, or maybe the prugatory next to it is just a bit puny?

not many of these seem like ‘comfy’ saddles
charge spoon? fairly minimal and hard.

I like WTB saddles and their site lets you sort through sizes i think quite easily.

i’m planning on getting a WTB Pure some time soon, tho not sure it fits your sizes

got an SMP, not sure which but quite squishy, really comfy for a while, now i find it weird. pushes my sits bones apart, or seems to

Thanks.
Aye, I’ve got/had mostly schwalbe 2.35s. Nice and big yep, wouldn’t mind even bigger…