tried punch and boiling water—-thing ain`t shifting

ride UP minton batch much more fun as an ascent …..

Ride on Long Mynd, take family to Acton Scott farm museum—you could ride up Minton Batch, go acrossPort Way, down Small Batch, about 12 miles I think; viist Natl Trust vistor centre at Cardingmill Valley (just out of Church Stretton. Have a good day
second Stokesay too, and the Green remembered Hills / AONB / Discovery centre at Craven Arms, lots of things for children and adults

thanks all, unfortunately there`s very little head showing as in recess of hope alloy disc carrier…and its jammed in hope hoop hubs too!
looks like hot water / punch could be a good thing to do, and next time check mfrs torque settings beforehand!!!

Saw road clubs out on main roads, very good surfaces; small roads rough and potholes; farm tracks too but probably privately owned and unsure of access rights if any on them

Thinking of next year but also looking for an excuse to buy a full suss

why do you need to ride Corrieyarick to justify that?? Have a good ride though HT or not

Van Nic Ti Zion, with Fox 120RLCs—very light. Maybe I should knock a few psi out of tyres (40psi at moment but I weigh 12.5st). Forks are longer than intended travel, but crown / dropout height very close to previous 100mm used, and with 2-3cm sag I can`t see it affecting geometry / handling too radically?

GW thanks for that useful input, (not) appreciated

yes I know and it is lifting on climbs…for some reason (clumsy fingers on keyboard??) my post ended up as garbled when I saw it…..sorry for confusion.
summary bike climbs faster, front end lifts rather too easily on climbs (forks not locked out), bike then feels skittish.
Thanks for any advice!!

Having just fitted Fox 120RLC ,,,,,,,,
rims are same 717s tyres / tubes changed and lighter

Try taping the camera to bars for swooping descent shots…OK so this is road descent in Spain but shows angles of lean etc; Olympus mju2.
see—-

yes lots sense, but what is available?? I`ve seen Middleburn, Saint, any others, PMP??

You should look at the XTRs!!! expensive but fabulous shifting, only have to flick teh lever and it`s changed ; plus dual action on F&R downshift, and no nasty cluttering of gear indicators. Unlike most XTR stuff they do seem genuinely a step +++ above XT and not just a matter of being blingy / lighter

forgot to add check that barrel adjuster on shifter is at mid point so that you can make adjustments if needed either slacker or tighter, I think shifters should be supplied with adjusters at mid point but worth checking; enjoy

Contact Hope?? They are very helpful indeed IMHO and IME

It is easy really
DO NOT touch any adjustments on the F/ R mechs if they are changing fine still. Thread rear cable / inner thro frame stops. By hand move mech and chain to mid poiint cassette and thread inner thro mech cable clamp. Gently tighten clamp and then whislt turning pedals loosen slowly teh clamp bolt; this will enable mech to return to small cog and pull thro on cable to correct tension. Do up clamp again and should be all properly indexed and shifting. any small adjustmenst can be done on mech adjuster or lever adjuster.
Front mech such same but set chain and mech by hand onto big ring and tehn loosen off cable clamp as mech returns to samll ring. 1 hr maxm should do it

Take a look at Hope Hoops 700c—-Hope Pro2 on Mavic Open Pros, great wheesl, fast , stay true, not truly completely handbuilt I think but a very good wheel overall; feel as fast almost as my best Easton Ea 90 SL set

yes—take it to a friendly small local cobbler / clothes altertaions service and they`ll be able to fit new velcro; just having my Spesh BG MTB Carbons revitalised again with new velcro straps and less than £10….

Ergons are good, although the bar ends I find a bit short; also think about using bar ends (shock horror) if your carbon bars can take them OK (you can get bar plugs to help against crushing). Apart from Ergons I

float` on the grips too. As said above check rotational angles on the riser bars as a little change can cause a lot of effect on hand / wrist angles

What about Fox F series RLCs though? There is just one compression dial here, so isn`t it a matter of compromise between getting a supple smooth fork and one that handles big impacts too? so it may then be a case of changing settings also according to terrain ridden? ie is there no perfect setting for all situations, or am I missing something here ? (having spent time in Black Mtn fiddling with compression setting and not yet recently finding something to suit all the varied terrain there!)

Ive just got a new spring assembly for RC40 XCFR which are 2004/5 models so reckon yes you can—give them a ring

Thecrackfox is right it is the landowners responsibility to cut back overgrowth to make a bridleway passable; it would always be wise, and courteous to ask permission though before doing any cutting back!
Whilst LAs may in theory undertake the clearance themselves (using contractors or volunteer teams) (with owners permission) it may not be at the top of their list of things to do given expected severe budget cutbacks.

Thanks—Looks like it!! however on this method am I right in thinking that the lube oil in stanchions is not being changed (only reference seems to be to damper oil) and the foam ring oil is just being topped up?? Is it just the damper side that has a lot of oil in it? and spring side just has foam rings oiled?

—-once upon a time, with my second pair of forks, set of Pace RC 36 I just injected grease every ride or so!! OK until I forgot / really muddy riding and then they didnt work very well

Moving on from then, anyone know how to do oil changes on RC 40 XCFR??, can`t really find instructions on Pace site with vols etc.
thanks

What I find curious though is that with Fox a 85wt oil is applied to the foam rings but the oil bath, which presumably will replenish the oil on foam rings is 7.5wt—whilst RS uses an application of 15 wt to foam rings and 15wt oil bath which would seem to make more sense!!!