“trying to understand the logic of the 12.5mph thing”
I guess it could assume you get a chance to brake a bit before crashing?

Are Euro Ncap crash tests for cars done at something like 45mph?
I guessed with those they assume some braking before collision?

a lot of what i rode around hayfield today didn’t feel like it had a lot of mud on, the water must have washed it all away ..

obviously veer off the worn path and it was muddy/grassy, but I can’t remember any proper gloop/bog

“a classic post-2010 Schwalbe tyre on a Stans rim”
argh
I was told it was post 2012 or Tubeless ready schwalbe, though post 2010 might fit my own problem
slight thread hijack:
I’ve got 2011 Schwable Alberts to fit tubed on Stans Arch EX with relative ease (no fairy etc), just they won’t seat at 20psi with pulling nor 40psi, even after riding

“2012 Revelations for the same price, but these dont have the Blackbox moco”

2012 RLT Ti’s are blackbox dampered, or equivalent
The RLT and RL have the dual flow rebound half of the blackbox damper

My Air U-turns leak from the -ve to +ve chamber so they suck down over a ride. I guess it just wants a new seal but I could do without it

What is it about the felt that you don’t like?

Fox 36 @ 150mm will be 535mm
RS Rev 20mm @ 150mm = 528mm

“521mm for 150 Fox 32s”
I thought they were 525mm as they the 150mm’s are QR15mm only and QR15 that bit taller.
I could also be wrong
A Fox 32mm QR9mm @ 140mm would be 511mm

guessing long delay because they’re very popular?

“a bit strange with most people riding 9 speed.”
But now you have a reason to buy a complete set of 10 speed?
They’re not stupid you know

How big or small a fit is your kona?

May not be applicable, just I recently came to realise my lower back troubles over medium-long rides might come down to too shorter cockpit fit on my bikes
Where I’m forcing my lower back to curve instead of be straight with the rest of my back

Have been managing to ride my HT recently with a very low fork (80mm pilot with very short steerer tube) which would normally make things worse for me, but now with a 110mm stem haven’t had a twinge

“wondering is the EG a better frame even aside from price”

EGs used to retail at £1700 frame only before titus went under and on-one bought them. Afaik the only on-one revisions would be the 1deg slacker headtube, Taper h/tube, steeper SA, slightly longer ETT, stock shock, cable routing and colours
I’d not read anything to saying the tubing/factory/etc has changed
(though nothing to say they haven’t?)

the c/stays on an EG aren’t exactly wimpy. You can run a 10mm thru-bolt or bolt-up hub if you want stiffer than a standard 5mm QR
When I bought my V2 (current one is V3), I did sort of buy on the premise a maxle seatstay was on its way to fit for the V3 but that’s not happened
Only thing with the chainstays to note might be they’re not super short (440mm?). So perhaps manualling requires that little more effort
On the flip side I think it holds a line uphill a lot better than my Stumpjumper FSR did. and despite my V2’s steepish 68deg HA it holds a pretty decent line downhill too, I’m thinking this is down to c/stay length and low BB?
Also longer stays give room for bags of tyre clearance. I’ve had (not used) a 2.4″ Schwalbe Big Betty mounted on an Alex FR32mm rim with space to spare

Titus El Guapo £600? (were ~ £1700 before on-one bought titus)
though I wouldn’t want to run with a 140mm fox, even with a fat lower cup h/set. 150mm Rockshox is low enough

Titus FTM alu or cabron? Desined around 140mm forks. A little steep HA, not sure if there is an angle slackening h/set to fit them yet.

EDIT: alu version will take an angle slackening h/set. Works components do a (£70-80) number of different angles/stack heights to fit to make it more normal angles

Anyone got any more recent updates to the peak

For some ilthought out reasoning I think I’m set to do the jacobs loop this weekend
Don’t mind a bit of ice leftover, but not keen on it being ice sheet central all the way round
(and re: mud, was to skip rushop edge/mam tor and go up chapel gate and add in a little harder based stuff on the hayfield side)

“the Zesty, absolutely no need for it”
maybe not on the red, though you may still find it fun
If you add on some runs on the bikepark/’downhill’/dirt jumps and like your airtime then you’ll get some use out of it

I’ve got one, its just awaiting fitting (as a wheel) to the bike
Have yet to see how it fares

Also struggled to find much. As far as I found its based on the older 120 point hubs that were suscpetible to slippage. Apparantly a grit issue that regular servicing/new bearings should cure. Though I think that line is from superstar
The tesla supposidly doubles up on engagement pawls and as far as the marketting goes is meant to get round some of the slippage issues

Theres a thread on bikeradar somewhere

If Hope made the standard pro II 48point pickup instead of 24 (like they do with the Pro II singlespeed then maybe I could have convinced myself to live with the noise

“Better support for the foot, with a cage around them.”
It depends

With ‘race’/roadie style SPD shoes I’ve not really noticed a lot of difference. If anything with those shoes it makes it harder to ‘find’ the clip to clip in. Though I’ve not used them loads with cage/trail SPDs, they tend to be used with cageless SPDs

When I’ve used DX’s with ‘race’ shoes in the past though I did find them easy to clip into, Whether this was because DX’s/M545s the clip part rotates within the cage and ‘trail’ ones (M530 etc) don’t rotate withing themselves I don’t know

I bought ‘trail’ ones (M530) as my Spesh Tahoes (sort of like a low summer hike shoe (basically a mesh top shoe with chunky tread)) I found the soles too flexy for use with cageless pedals, a ‘hotspot’ around the cleat when descending can get painful. I wanted something with a bit more shoe support without going to M545/DX weight/price levels (M424s were out on the mud ability/older clips)
M530’s only have minimal more support (the front and rear bumpers cant do much as they’re lower than the area around the cleat clips) but that little more does seem to make ebnough difference that I don’t get the cleat hotspots
I’m still considering chopping the bumpers off as I’ve never had a problem smashing M520s and M540S into rocks and stuff int he past

Regards your question. Why wouldn’t you get road SPD’s for a road bike?

“Stumpys come as standard with 140mm so all I would adding is essentially the width of my thumb under the front end.”

Your thumb is 34mm wide?
2010 – 2012? 26″ wheel SJer FSR’s came with QRdropout Fox 32 140mm which are 511mm Axle-Crown irrc
Lyriks, Domain, (Totem,) Fox 36 @ 160mm are 545mm
Not sure on Fox 34 @ 160mm

“wouldn’t have thought the bb would move much but its a good point”
I’d have thought the shortened reach/front centre measurement would be more of an issue

hope is white peak also though no?

Cavedale, Pindale etc are limestone

How much ice on jacobs ladder itself? also Roych Clough, lower end (land rover wide rock gulley) of Rushop Edge?

“In skiing (US), double-black”

Also UK mountain biking
Double black graded trails springing to mind:
Stainburn – Warren Boulder trail
Laggan – ‘black’
Mabie – Kona Dark Side

there must be more

Some of the 2 and 3 ‘spot’ orange graded bikepark and downhill stuff must be harder than black too?

“worst being the 2006 original revs uturn 426 qr model, flexier than “
Claimed to be the stiffest 130mm fork at the time iirc.
So more than upto 2006 30mm Fox
Noticable better than my ’04 30mm MX Pro’s
Also noticably flexier than my (32mm) 2010 20mm Revs

iirc the 2009 140mm Maxle Rev’s were only different from 454 Pikes by having the Maxle Lite axle instead of Maxle? hence 50g or so less

What QR skewer are you using?
(internal cam) Shimano could be better than a worn external
A DT RWS claims to make things stiffer?

What hub have you? Any option to swap internals/adapters to 9mm thru-axle? (assuming you’re on 5mm QR skewer?)
re: 9mm thru-axle, Superstar for cheapness, American Classic lighter, DT RWS lighter and ‘safer’?

What are the spoke tensions like on your front wheel? Evenly tight? Or not?
Handlebars/stem? clamp size?

“using it for everything from local xc to trail centres and painfully slow, mincing DH”
“found it a bit too xc focused for my taste”
“idea of a Mega, I suspect it would be be fun for half my riding and a bit of a drag for the rest. I’ve reluctantly had to accept that I’m probably not gnarlcore enough for the Mega”

So something that pedals well but inbetween a mk1/V1/V2 El Guapo and a NP Mega for £800?
That’ll be the (current) Titus El Guapo V3 then?
67deg HA, abaility to go upto 2*deg slacker with works components h/set (well within budget) etc
*upto 1.5deg with external lower cup h/set

A 150mm forked V2 EG will do much more than mince painfully slowly down a DH track

Sanderson Soloist with 120mm forks will be fairly slack head angle

What is it about a guapo that you’re questioning?

“has made Chapel Gate deadly dull with a capital D”
Yep, though it makes for a managable most conditions ascent to cut out the oft boggy legit side of rushop edge and gain a bit more length/effort to give a few more options on the hayfield end

“why they resurfaced it to such a high standard if they expected the ban to stick”
My guess was if they just dumped a load of gravel on it, it wouldn’t take too long before the rain/snow melt got it

“the more tech the trail the safer it is for walkers”
+1, unless the walkers can’t/won’t walk it, ala chapel gate
Since they levelled it, when I’ve been on chapel gate walkers I’ve met have still used the muddy high shoulder instead of the repaird track itself

“A 2ft drop off in the centre of the bridleway is dangerous to most riders. Its not rollable”
It is?
granted saddle down and plenty of body movement, but i did it the other week past a 4×4 that decided it couldn’t do it and take the chicken line instead
“not fair to expect someone new to the area to bust their collarbone etc when they hit that part”
Fair point. The preceeding section of rock drops/lumpiness ought to give a decent clue as to the level of severity of whats upcoming? Preceeding lumpiness ought to have speeds for those unknowing right down?

“skiing is way, way, way steeper than mountain biking. Going down a red ski run on an MTB is pant-wettingly steep”
Steep yes, but not as you describe imo. Have used ski runs (in summer) to link up trails and not as bad as you make out

In winter with a bit of icing going on I can see would be a completely different. Perhaps just an exersize in brake control, or lack of

re: DH skiing, I cant see the lifts being setup for bike use in winter. chairlifts/bubbles having had the bike racks removed, lift attendants (at busy periods) perhaps having enough to do monitoring ski-iers/snowboarders getting on/off lifts. The big ‘twin-box’ lifts (name escaping me) a bvike would take too much space up. Ski-resort/lift operator wanting to keep them full of skiers/snowboarders

Also demand?
How many people even know of ‘fatbikes’?
How many people would actually be interested in mincing your way down a ski-run on one

weird double post

“If cable does that to an ally frame what is it doing to my carbon?”

this:

the most inline with the rest of the guides route, but wrong due to above
Park Tool glueless inner tube patches (sort of rubbery feel) on the frame do a great job of resisting cable rub though. Else if it’ll look gash, some on the offending hose will do ime.

Most hubs/adapters differ form one another so I’m guessing not on the hub -> 15mm adapeter
I presume you can’t take the 20mm ‘parts’ off the existing hub?
Any pics?

re: a sleeve to shim down from 20mm to 15mm. You’ll have a problem with the 20mm hub/adapters being 110mm wide and 15mm fork will have a 100mm opening I thiknk

“have SLX cranks on my hardtail (about to be sold), they’re great cranks, but I see the XTs as being somewhat a level up”
How so though?

“719s are only 15g each less than a Flow Ex but you’re giving up strength, width and tubelessreadyness”
Width is the big one for me. They’re okay (much better than XC717s) but 2.25″/2.5″ Maxxis I find feel a bit narrow on XM719’s. Definetly wouldn’t want to run anything bigger
Just got some (21mm) Arch EX so will see how I get on

b@lls, already have the replacement assembly. But yes, an ’08 F120 RL

other day thought, I’ll torque the base nuts up later (also escaping cold garage) when I put the fork back in. Ill just use this spanner for now. Cold hands + not really thinking = base nut + threaded end snapping off and flying into the unknown of the floor

Of course they won’t supply the air piston shaft on its own, only as a complete setup with piston head and negative springs setup

Its not like I don’t have a torque wrench

“hux2flat”
How big?
and onto what surface? concrete/tarmac or not?

Was going to say XT over SLX could be a bit pointless, especially if you’re not going to use the shimano rings. I don’t know what the weight difference is on 2012/2013 stuff but the difference between the previous gen. SLX/XT wasn’t mucg and afaik a lot was in the chainrings
If you’re willing to pay out for flashier then fair enough, but imo I’m struggling to see why XT is flashier than SLX (don’t really see either as)
For big Hucks maybe some discounted FSA Gravitys. or some other DH/FR cranks that aren’t insanely heavy nor very expensive/nearly at full RRP
More of a middleground, maybe the steel axle/pedal thread insert SLX/bash’s

“major finger pains “
Have you tried playing with different angles of ‘roll’ in the stem you set the handlebar?
Maybe something like a 745/750mm (can’t remember which they are) Bontrager Rhythm. Bikeradar said they can be a bit flexy compared to DH bars. I think they’re meant to be more of an AM/trail bar than DH

“rider has skill, but i’m sure he wasn’t always that skillful so the practice needed would have involved some “bike fails” along the way. hopefully not on that bike…”

I was thinking along these lines. Ridden faster likely bigger spills/damage?
Maybe a vid of mincing, getting off when it gets even slightly questionable would give greater confidence its not seen a hard life?
Obviously doesn’t really prove anything and a bit pointless

Description and pics including scratches/dents etc more useful I’d have said

one is 1.5″ across. one is 1.125″ across
There also steerers that start at 1.5″ ‘at the fork end’ and narrow to 1.125″ where the stem bolts to (aka tapered steerer tube)

If you want to swap the steerer tube, you’ll need a complete new Crown-Steerer-Unit (CSU) to fit your fork. You’ll need the spring and damper assemblies swapped across to the new CSU.
The CSU will likely be costly
A Fox 32 CSU can be had for ~£135 from mojo
iirc RRP 32mm Rockshox CSU’s are a bit over £200 and 35mm over £300
Maybe you can get an RS one for less
and ime TFtuned won’t sell you one

was wondering where this thread was. was thinking it would’ve been in the bike forum

I assume you’ve fitted a 2.0″(?) Bonty Mud X to deal with mud.
afaik Minions are the dry/loose downhill tread (HR for loam, swampthing for mud, wet scream for filth) and not especially spaced out tread so could block up more easily
For more volume but similar(ish) mud ability/rolling I’d be looking at a Spesh Storm 2.0″

Quad link 3? Is that the 2011 140mm one?
It was in the magazine (same time as commencal meta 55, spesh SJer 140mm iirc). About spring 2011, if not a little before
They seemed to like it. I can’t remember anything bad about it, unlike the first years quad link 2 mount vision. after that I was suprised to see another marin in the mag tbh

The on-one monocoque bladed ones not fit the bill?

“common fault on the left hand side of fox forks, i’ve heard the cause is the disc brakes, every time you pull on the brakes, it moves the forks”

causing0 higher load/wear rates on the LHS upper bush. insufficicent oil coverage obviously a factor

I’ve seen this on rockshox too. Bush worn down to the metal edge
Once worn it drags muck in with topped up lowers oil and faster wear?

I’ve used RockOil 5wt on RS Revs/recons. Can’t say I’ve noticed any difference

Since fitted a KS i950 dropper
ArchEX-Pro2/Tesla wheels waiting to build/fit
Ghetto-tubless in the pipeline
Still considering an angleset h/set (68deg HA’d V2)
Lyriks, 50mm stem, 780mm bars would be nice for the downs but the extra weight* and (more) cramped cockpit I can’t see is going to make it better on a proper climb
*Its already 32lbs with only XC tubes