“LX HTII 44-32-22T = 936g
Hone HTII 44-32-22T = more, (inc. steel pedal threads/HT axle)

Nope the Hone triple doesn’t have steel pedal threads and is almost the same as LX other than colour the weight is the same. “

Fair enough, I thought they did as a mate bought hone triples over LXs to gain the steel bits

“According to the tech info an SLX chainset with 2 rings and bash is 976g and without the bash is 923g. XT is 853g with 3 rings on. “

They used to be displayed as 889 and 1000g was from somewhere else as it wasn’t on the shimano site for ages

“Check out On-One – should be able to pick one up in their sale”

They’re all roo short. I want to keep the fore-aft position so need over 100mm really. Most are either too little or too much rise

“XL Trance ..”
“Trance X0 only comes in 20 inch max though and is 5″ travel”

He didn’t suggest a trance X, but an extra large trance (4″). The anthem X is set to replace the ’08 trance, so there maybe some deals kicking about

“they are a lot of bridges that are a lot stonger and bigger than they really need to be so that planes have a nice shelter out of the rain”

Why would they need to be stronger and bigger to take ‘rain loading’. Surely they’re designed to withstand the rain .. ?

Looks like lyrik uppers

If this is the WW2 planes thread then surely this jet is allowed?

Else I like the intake in these:

“the double on big ring (2) and back 9 is the same as the triple on big 3 and back 7”

Thats assuming you are using a 32T middle ring and an 11-34T casette (where no. 7 is a 15T) Though close, the 44-15T is actually a higher (harder/faster) combination than 32-11T
A lot of people won’t/don’t use an 11-34T casette either because the 34T is rarely needed. A 32T is often more usful and gives a more even spread of gears
On a 11-32T casette no. 7 is a 14T and is obvuiosly higher/harder/faster gear combination again

LX HTII 44-32-22T = 936g
Hone HTII 44-32-22T = more, (inc. steel pedal threads/HT axle)
Hone HTII bash-32-22T = more (inc. steel pedal threads/HT axle)

SLX 44-32-22T = 889g, (inc. steel/composite middle ring)
SLX bash-36-22T =~ 1000g (inc. steel pedal threads/HT axle)

Even pre-‘credit-crunch’ prices for the double SLX were the same as the Hone double crank

I don’t really see any revolution tbh?
The steel/composite ring on the SLX triple is a good idea though

And some people think the apache is ugly:

Mi-28

A dish on a plane? Always thought they looked odd:

Awesome thread, will it ever end?

I always liked these (amongst many already posted), however crappy they may look

and these:

What about the £1400 pitch pro?

With loads of sag the fork will dive heavily under braking, on steep stuff, in corners and generally feel quite sloppy and uncontrolled

A fork too tall for a frame will make the BB hieght higher making it worse in corners, harder to get on/off and get started on tricky climbs/traverses/DHs
The effective top tube length will shorten
The chain stay length will probably increase on a XC hardtail (depends as to the angle)
The headangle will obviously increase, but will still dive to the same point
Most importantly though, the seat angle will be a lot slacker making it more difficult to ride in pretty much every situation but downhill
The increased travel has the potential to rip the headtube off too

Given its an 80mm frame I’d try to stick to a 80, 85, 100 (maybe a 105) fork, not just because they’ll likely be lighter, but much more suited to the frame

The signs aren’t up yet are they? If not then it can’t exaclty be one way

“bontrager jones ACX soft compound rubber”

Which ones are they then?

I’d like a set of those
I know theres the blackwall folding one, the wire one and the TR (tubeless ready) one. Is one of them softer than the others? (or vice versa)

I found mine slid on trail centrey corners too. I’d put it down to the lack of increased treads toward the edges. (Though the even distribution of tread (no big gaps) probably means it behaves well enough upto that point)

I’ve been using these recently. Nice and grippy, decent (would like more really) volume (really not a 2.35″), yet roll suprisingly well on the road at 35/45psi:
2.35″ 60a folding (wire = single ply) Maxxis High Roller = 646-695g

“but have only found an out and back route which i’m not sure i like the sound of”

Its a brilliant out and back.

Theres another way around this bit

When heading southwards, take the most westerley of the two b.ways. On the way back heading north (I’ve always done it from the langsett end) take the eastertly most bridleway when it splits.

I tried it once in january, and turned back somewhere near the summit due to the bogginess. Still really enjoyed it though. Only managed it fully in july other times though

10.00 am and 5 pm from 1st May to 30th September

Kinesis Maxlight XCPro2 (the carbon stayed one) = £399, 80-100mm forks, 1.6kgs

Just an idea, though not sure what you’ve already ruled out?

“so in effect he is spending £480 on a hardtail”

Its still only got V-brakes though
And non-disc hubbed wheels

“Unless of course you’re one of those lucky people that can just balance!”
Having started to use SPDs all the time, I noticed they brought on my balance no end

To atart with on approaching junctions and other points I thought I may come to a stop, I unclipped my right foot (Still resting on the pedal) to make sure I could unclip and took it from there
I didn’t ride anywhere serious until about my 6/7th ride with them (jacobs ladder loop) by which time I was okay enough with them to ride everything (Though took until my 3rd or 4th go on the top steep but of the ladder with SPDs and not having ridden there before), I wouldn’t have wanted to have gone any sooner though

Just make sure to adjust them to the slackest setting to start with

If you coudl find any to borrow, I reckon it’d be worth trying a partly worn set of SPD pedals/cleats. I find they’re too easy to clip out off when they’re both worn a bit. When new, even at low tension they seem to need a lot of force to clip out of

Its still big enough to scare me though

If you’re not bothered about tyre volume for the peak (I’ve ridden mine down chapel gate and others without a problem), and are assuming the race courses are going to be at least a bit sloppy, A pair of 2″ bontrager mud X’s wouldn’t be a bad choice (550g ea.). They corner quite nicely too so should satisfy your need for trail centre stuff (mine were fine round glentress black and sherwood pines when I took them there)

A friend of mine who bought one last april was told it was £100 for a rear triangle/stay if the mech hanger goes

Its poor design unlimately. You can’t exactly carry a spare with you on a ride

ISIS BB, but with big bearings

90% walking up? or down?

What bikes did you have? And how good are you?
It might be different for someone else? (though it might not).
Sorry, I’m sounding like a nob, just ben nevis was on my ‘to do list in my head’ after reading/looking at the article/photos in mbr a little while back

“but not much of a ride”

Not up, but I thought the down was really good? Or so an article in mbr led me to believe (up/down the main path on the west face of it)

What bike was it that you thought rubbush?

Magura thors (100-140mm, 20mm bolt-thru) are lighter than both of them

“Seems like they’ve also changed the backing plate to copper now”

Thats only on the sintered ones

I’ve not a problem with either the non-sintered ones or the sintered ones. Both seem to last ages through winter mud

Maybe my superior weight gets them upto temperature more often and each susquent layer is getting bedded in more? Rather than bedding them in to start with and then very rarely getting them properly hot through their lifetime? And/or getting them to steam when you pour water on the rotors, but not so it ‘whooshes’ off?

“held together with lugs made from a hemp epoxy composite; long strips of hemp fiber soaked in epoxy that dry to create tough and durable lugs”

Should I read that as the epoxy is made from hemp, or its merely a composite of epoxy and hemp?

“What’s the point of it?”

I think:
+ shift without the need to pedal
+ shifter doesn’t have to set up very finely to work
+ instant shifting from/to overdrive at the click of the lever
+ shifts under whatever pedalling load (think going up a steep uphill)
+ ‘better’ chainline as set up for one ring, meaning don’t have to worry about having a diagonal chainline (eg. both little rings, or both big rings)
+ Increased clearance (is the size of a 24T ring)
+ a single ring means the chain should be run shorter (and with a short cage mech) means less chain slack (to deal with less change in ring sizes), and so should stay on better
+ has a built-in upper chainguide

However:
– a lot of bikes are designed to pedal without bobbing in the middle ring. Because it uses a 22 or 24T tooth ring, a lot of frames won’t pedal very well with it, whether in normal 22T, or overdirve (22T ring spinning 1.6 times faster than the cranks)
– Heavier than an equivalent AM/FR setup (despite what they say)
– Expensive
– Internal drag (especially in overdrive mode)
– needs ISCG frame mounts (few non-FR/DH/DJ frames have them)

Something like that

According to a review in the mag from a year or two ago I seem to remember A rohloff doesn’t shift well under load, has a twist grip shifter, aren’t indexxed ever so well in some ratios, are a bit weighty (all in the wheel throws the bike balance out a fair bit), require a wheelbuild, cost £700 as well as a few other issues that I can’t remember

Isn’t a PG990 way more expensive? And heavier? (could be wrong)
I remember buying the XT instead for some reason though

They both look vile

So no, they’re not the reason I’m fat

“tell me when you’re going I may drag my lazy arse along”

Apparantly they’re running a wristband system fro entrants, so that they can chuck off anyone who doesn’t have one

The XC was built over the winter I think, to NPS standard apparantly

Should’ve gone back to dunkeld .. sending the XC course down part of the DH track (Albeit with the drops removed) was a brilliant idea. Really good to ride and watch

1. Undo the pinch bolts
2. Undo the star cap thing
3. Don’t forget to lift up the safety tab thing hidden in the clamp section

Something like that, works for me

“lifetime on frame, 1 year on shock”

Really?
Maybe I should’ve sent my shock back when I first discovered it was slowly leaking then? (Given it was under a year old then ..)

I’m not the only one then?
Am on my second front triangle, second shock/brain and its started leaking, second set of bearings, thought at 1 year old that was wear and tear (they weren’t fitted squarely either) rear bearings, and second headset waiting to be fitted

What/who is octopron (brake pads) ?

Depends if you want to take them to bits to service them once a year, or once every 15 hours of riding ..

probably better than XT (HG93) imo. Shimano chains seem to snap more and don’t ‘feel as solid’ ime